Babysitter, I'd like to add there are some of us DRV owners that haven't experienced ALL the problems mentioned above. They are legitimate concerns for sure!! You are buying a "lightly used" DRV, look closely at the points of others' failures to see if this unit you're interested in has similar issues. We have a 2015 38 RSSA, we've had NO leakes, nothing falling off the ceilings or experience "under performing" braking. Do your due diligence and check the unit out. We're happy with our purchase.
Has our trailer been problem free? NO, we've had the Lippert "front jack failure" problem along with some other minor issues that were corrected under warranty. Our experience has been, for the most part a positive one. Good luck with your search!
When it stops raining, maybe Wednesday. What I am thinking is this, we has a useless sat tv dome on top of the TT. I'm thinking of pulling that and putting the TOGO dome there. I'm guessing there is a 12V cable under that sat dome which will solve the wire pulling issue.
I was told selling sat TV systems at an RV show that we had an 'old dome' and others have opined it is now worthless. We bought the 2016 RV used and it did not come with the sat tv box anyway. And I have no plans to spend a fortune on sat tv anyway.
The TOGO comes with a Sling TV offer. And also there are two data plans offered 5 GB/month not unlimited for $25/mo. And the unlimited $360/yr plan that everyone talks about.
If I had my druthers I would locate the solar charge controller near the battery, but it will still work at either location with relatively small (subject to wire size, current, and distance) difference in efficiency. NOTE HOWEVER especially if they are lead acid, you don't want electronics or spark producing devices in the same proximity (especially near top of battery) to the hazardous potentially explosive gasses which batteries can emit . Many of the small suitcase set out panels have the charge controller located with the panel.
As far as the wire gauge from solar panel to the solar charge controller, while strictly speaking it makes a difference if the panel were a 12 Volt or a 24 Volt (Vmp is higher) since its only a 120 watt and you're only talking 30 feet, 10 Gauge will suffice although sure bigger cable means less line voltage drop.
Regarding charging your battery, a 120 Watt Panel, depending on the angle and intensity of the sun, might deliver 5 to 8 charging amps during peak sun periods which may be sufficient to replenish battery energy used for small electronics charging or LED lighting etc.
While a PWM Solar Charge Controller, often used in low power low voltage applications, is cheaper, an MPPT can be more efficient plus allow for higher input voltages.
For more accurate answers you would need to know the panel operating voltage, the wire length and current and use voltage drop calculators but for a short sweet answer (although NOT perfect or exact) the above should suffice.
Hello all. New member here. I have made up my mind to go full-time. I plan to boondock and park at out of the way places. I really don't have any desire to spend much time in RV parks. I'm thinking an ~28 foot Class C. When I look at smaller Class A's it seems the bang for buck is with them.
What would the difference be between:
a) cost of maintenance
b) ability for a small Class A to be driven down the same roads as a Class C? Would anyone advise to stay with a Class C for someone that wants to boondock alot?
You make a very good point, but I visited the NPS website and am unable to locate anything that is related to the referenced subject or article. How about posting a link to the information that you read?