@John. Whatcha tryin to do there?!? Power your own little rollin city?
I getcha though... even 15% off another 235 on a cloudy day is nothin to sneeze at. Your biggest hog is your dorm fridge, but heck... during the hottest part of the day... when it's workin the hardest... it's all free juice anyhow packing that much up top. How's your CCC holdin up? 😉
[For the sake of others: Meaning that his bank it topped off in the morning so the refer is running off excess production rather than his battery bank.]
I've "thought" about tossing a little more upstairs, but to do that I would have to go with another 270 (2x135's) to balance my arrays. That's a bit overkill. Or... to be perfectly honest... would give me more days of excess to do laundry that I now have an excuse to procrastinate. I've elected to hold off. 🤣
An A-IPower... gotcha. I thought you had a Yamaha (vs. Yamaha engine "powered"). The only suggestion I might have there... if you plan to run it mounted... is to install hard rubber vibration dampners between the frame and mounting points. Even a 1/8"-1/4" thick would be helpful, but thicker would be better. Of course... ensuring the exhaust isn't anywhere near your batteries (off-gassing concern) or other fuel sources.
If a single is able to run your aircon after the microair install you should be good to go. Charging off a single is a non-issue.
The online manual for the controller might be much easier to read. There is also an installation guide on their website if needed.
Battery monitor... you really can't go wrong with a Trimetric. They are fairly affordable, reliable, accurate and kind of a "main-stay". Even though I have montoring via my solar controller and inverter/charger remotes... I also have a trimetric for the "big picture" view of all incoming/outgoing current.
Installation would require a shunt that should be mounted as closely as possible to the battery. The direct to battery connection on one side of the shunt and all other incoming/outgoing connections on the opposite side.
Lookin pretty good there, Ken!
Well, as usual, you guys do not disappoint, thank you, I will keep them separate, I do have them isolated with my A,B, both switch, I just won't use both until I can afford more same size/brand AGM's.
I am hoping to get away with just 1 gen. the I-2000 powered by Yamaha, it fits nicely in the basement and I am fabricating a slide out for it as I type, so I just open the side bay, slide it out and fire it up, will upload pics when im done, for now I am fighting bay location haveing to move it a couple of inches to the side as I couldnt forsee a welded bracket on the back side of the beam I am attaching to, and of coarse I was positioned so I had to drill right into a weld, and I am letting the weld win tommorrow I move it and hopefully fabricate my locking hold down bracket, I want it to lock it to the beam while in the bay, and keep it locked to the slide when running, wish me luck
On another note, my solar charge controller is hard to read, "Renogy kit with adventurer charge controller" it also has limited very fine print instructions so I was wanting to get advice on a battery condition monitor, can I just tap into the same leads supplying the charge to the AGM batteries from the controller?
and mount it nearby, also does it draw much current to use the monitor?
Well I have changed up the gear ratio on our 1999 Volvo 610, Detroit D60 12.7, Eaton 10 speed Manual Trans.. This truck was built with a 3.70 ratio and at 65 MPH it ran at 1500-1600 RPM. The GearmasterII in the truck showed the engine running at way above the mileage sweet zone. I wanted to lower the RPM range to around 1300 at 65 to not only keep from pushing the motor hard but also be able to not be a traffic hazard on the higher speed limit roads we encounter since the 55 MPH federal laws changed. I replaced the gear ratio with a 3.25 ratio and all I can say is, it has been a perfect choice from my initial drive tonight . At 65 the truck is running at 1325 RPM. I am hoping to not only add longevity but get better mileage running at the best RPM for engine efficiency cruising at HWY speed. Has anyone else done this to an older truck and what were your results so I can understand more what to expect?
Since i didn't have to spend a lot on the truck initially I have done some things to it to bring the truck up to higher standards since it is 19 years old. A rebuilt air compressor, governor, Air dryer, air junction boxes other air fittings, Shocks, all fluids flushed and changed out to have a flat line for my future. The best part is I am still under budget of what I planned to spend and tens of thousands less than a new to me pickup that could handle our 17,000 pound Redwood 5er.. Also is there any other preventative maintenance I may have missed?
Thanks in advance for any suggestion anyone may have that i may not know about........