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  2. Chad Heiser

    HDT with HD Trailer

    You need to share the wealth and come to the West Coast Rally with it too. 😉 I'm interested as I am now considering changing to a Toy Hauler since we bought our RZR and my retirement is getting closer.
  3. We've been on the road since March. Southern CA to CO to S. Carolina, then up to Maine, back west to CO (for 2nd grand-daughter's birth) via Niagara Falls, then up to Idaho. Tomorrow we head to Washington to visit our daughter who is due next week (first grand-son). We'll stay there for a month and then head south. Very little impact from COVID. We've had less contact RVing than if we'd have stayed home. March/Apr, some campgrounds were closed. We've done a lot of boondocking and it's been wonderful! Here's a link to our blog that chronicles our adventure: https://truckin523021914.wordpress.com/
  4. One the same theory as drive coast to coast the first winter you might want to make short term reservations at several parks to get a better feel for what's there. Linda
  5. I Googled it. http://www.preferredrv.com It's an RV resort-style campground similar to the SKP co-ops. Linda
  6. Here is a picture of our Comfort Ride failure (left). Luckily it was a short 200 mile day. While unhitching, in Nashville we found the whole hitch head bent back and the welds starting to fail. Campground recommended a welder and we had it reinforced with two steel plates (for and aft), as well as a piece of angle iron (right). This was several month ago and we now have 2000 miles on the "reinforced" hitch and it's doing great.
  7. I had not. Proving we are never too old to learn. It's going to take some effort for me, though, as the author indicated it would. I do think it's time for there to be a replacement for he/she but I thought it would be a new word, not a new use of an old word. BTW one of our SKP friends introduced us to the singular "we". That's where one says, "We should..." actually meaning "You should..." Linda
  8. I know this is an old thread, I was going to use a tarp motor to open the ramp door on my trailer, I didn't because I need a clutch release. These tarp motors and a sprocket/chain set up would work well on a hand crank conversion. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-5-HP-50-1-Gear-Ratio-12V-Apache-Slim-Universal-Dump-Truck-Tarping-System-Motor/401779538886?hash=item5d8bed3bc6:g:wyAAAOSwCYFc9USp
  9. This morning I was taking trash to the dumpster. My neighbor was talking to her cat. The cat sat there like she was listening. I went back to the RV. My Golden Retriever was on the patio so I took my coffee out there and told him about the neighbor talking to her cat. We both had a big laugh.
  10. Unless you have a camper that dates back to the 80's your water lines should be PEX. Earlier systems were a gray colored plastic pipe made of Polybutylene. Some campers continued to use soft copper pipe with no-solder compression fittings. The weakest part of the PEX system used on RV's is the cheap plastic L's and similar connectors/fittings commonly used to save a few pennies. Hopefully you have brass fittings rather than black plastic - the gray plastic fittings are somewhat stronger than the black ones. The brass Shark Bite no crimp connectors are very durable. 1/2" PEX has a burst pressure of almost 500 psi at 75 degrees F. It will expand under pressure - the plastic fittings will not expand. You will not break a PEX line unless you hook directly to a fire hydrant. When the "fixed" regulators first appeared and Polybutylene pipe was used most all RV manufacturers advised a maximum pressure of 40 psi. These in-line fixed 40-psi devices were NOT true regulators but rather flow restrictions with a spring loaded stop valve that caused a drop in pressure once a water faucet was turned on. IMHO, the most sensitive part of a RV water system to high pressure is the toilet. The flush valve can easily fail at "high" pressure. Second is the water supply hose - the "white hose" that sits in the sun on a hot day with a park having 80 psi at the water connection. Anyway, I use the adjustable brass unit with a gauge as shown in the previous pics and set the pressure going into the camper at 60 psi provided the particular park I am in has that much pressure. I try to put the regulator at or as close as possible to the park connection. If the park pressure is below 40 psi I fill my fresh water tank and run my 5.2 GPM variable speed pump set to 60 psi. I have encountered park pressures as low as 20 psi and as high as 110 psi. They are all a crap shoot. BTW - the glycerin filled gauges are a better quality than what we usually buy for our regulators. They are externally water proof, made of stainless steel and brass and less likely to be damaged by freezing temps.
  11. DesertMiner

    Water hose help!

    https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/custom-built-hoses
  12. Av8r3400

    Water hose help!

    Anyone ever try this type: https://www.apexhose.com/zero-g-rv-marine-hose
  13. Av8r3400

    Water hose help!

    I absolutely HATE my water hoses for our camper! White, plastic, Wal Mart quality garbage that is stiff and inflexible. Who has a better quality hose for potable water?? HELP!
  14. With only 3 people that isn't practical. There may be a fourth IT person now as I've not been down there for several years now.
  15. Yes, I use it and constantly refer folks with questions to the site. 99.9% on a Windows 10 laptop I looked at the "static" site and could not tell the difference. Not completely sure what your meaning of "static" is in this case. I disagree that this forum has suffered from contributors turning to Facebook. One issue that I believe may have "hurt" the form is a lack of current contributions from Jack and yourself. Thankfully the Old Goat and Scrap still hang around and contribute. But, I understand - this forum is not anyone's life! I have read many postings in the past two years that I wondered why they were not added to the Resource Guide. My conclusion was that you were extremely busy with other needs and perhaps had lost interest since moving to a MH. Regardless, I greatly appreciate the work you have done and can honestly say that without the guide I would have been totally lost in 2009 when I acquired my Volvo. I believe there are others gathered here that would carry the torch to assist you if given the needed instructions on access and operation. I strongly feel that the guide needs to continue - even if it is static and no additional information is added!
  16. As I said, I doubt others were offended either and I know. I also think it foolish to try and make an issue of it. Don't be so thin skinned. 🙄
  17. With the frost proof hydrants that are commonly used where things can freeze you are pretty much correct. The bleed off doesn't open immediately but it would be possible to have some bleed off before the water is completely closed. The design is to have water closed before the bleed off valve opens, but I have seen them leak at some point.
  18. Have you read this piece in the Atlantic? https://www.theatlantic.com/ideas/archive/2018/09/the-new-they/568993/
  19. Yup. No gender mentioned because there is no need for it. Just like there is no need to know the age, ethnicity, skin pigmentation, religious affiliations, nor ancestors of anyone.
  20. No, I’m seeking a preferred RV resort membership that’s located in Pahrump NV. Thanks for asking
  21. Besides what Blues said, here's part of the Fulltime Families Website Disclaimer: You should assume that every link on this site is an affiliate link, and that if you click on it and buy something, we could possibly make a small commission. However, you will not incur any extra charge. You should assume that products and attractions mentioned and reviewed were obtained free or at a reduced rate [ like their Berkey Water Filter "Review" ? ] . . . The website may include advertisements, sponsored content, paid insertions, affiliate links or other forms of monetization. Nothing on this website should be considered professional advice.
  22. Bob, before you spend money upgrading to Mor-Ryde axles and such, do some research on other units. After much looking, we found our Newmar with Mor-Ryde, Dexter axles with hydraulic disk brakes, and other tasty features. Just saying, it might be more cost effective to trade. We put about $15k in upgrades to our old unit, only to trade it in. They allowed us $15k.
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