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"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730 RV Hauler Build


bmzero

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Thanks, Jim. I agree with all of your reasoning, but another major feature that this design incorporates is the ability for modularity. If you want a generator box, fine. If you want a transfer tank, fine, etc., etc. All of these components would be pre-built and designed to make use of standard mounting holes so they could be swapped out in the future.

 

Another benefit of this bed design is the standard mounting locations of the VersaTie track. Combine the VersaTie track with the threaded studs from Mac's, and you basically have the ability to mount anything you need on the bed surface (wheel chocks, tool boxes, bicycle mounts, etc.).

 

I haven't gotten prices back from laser yet, but I suspect a bed like this could be purchased for less than half of the price you mentioned, depending on features, of course.

 

I like your composite decking idea. You don't know how close I came to using real hardwood for the surface of this bed. I would still like to build one like that one day, but it just didn't fit the personality of this particular truck.

At the rate I am going on my bed, I should just wait until you are ready to go into production and buy yours. Too bad, I cannot make it to Hutch this year. I would like to see the bed.

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It is a mode available for the i-shift transmission that I wouldn't use as it is intended for large loads and will back off more power between shifts.....OK if you had a 80K + load but really not applicable to our weights we haul. I wish I could get a faster harder shift than the comprehensive mode I have programmed in my truck. It backs off enough power between shifts already IMHO.

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I totally agree with Rick....and I'm pulling a far heavier trailer than he is. The only two trailers here heavier than mine (I think) are JC's and Ken's Continental Coach's.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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It is a mode available for the i-shift transmission that I wouldn't use as it is intended for large loads and will back off more power between shifts.....OK if you had a 80K + load but really not applicable to our weights we haul. I wish I could get a faster harder shift than the comprehensive mode I have programmed in my truck. It backs off enough power between shifts already IMHO.

 

You're probably right about backing off power. However, my truck abruptly kills the power in the early shifts. No matter how easy I am with the truck, it is still uncomfortable when clicking off sequential gear changes. When it decides to skip gears, it shifts very smoothly. When the attitude of the truck is down hill slightly, regardless of load (trailer or no trailer) it skips gears very smoothly and efficiently. However, if it's at all going up hill, the party is over. It's going to put a beat down on you when shifting, and it will hit every gear. I almost want to find the sensor that tells it the angle and rotate it about 30 degrees. :D

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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Jack what does your weigh. Henry you need to do a seminar on Solidworks

28,400 lbs.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail
2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it)
2022 New Horizons 43' 5er
2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 
2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU
No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units
2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar power
www.jackdanmayer.com
Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com

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You're probably right about backing off power. However, my truck abruptly kills the power in the early shifts. No matter how easy I am with the truck, it is still uncomfortable when clicking off sequential gear changes. When it decides to skip gears, it shifts very smoothly. When the attitude of the truck is down hill slightly, regardless of load (trailer or no trailer) it skips gears very smoothly and efficiently. However, if it's at all going up hill, the party is over. It's going to put a beat down on you when shifting, and it will hit every gear. I almost want to find the sensor that tells it the angle and rotate it about 30 degrees. :D

After putting 10k miles on my new truck. I have to agree this thing really torques out a lot?

It doesn't matter how heavy Or light I am . If you put it in (P) mode it's a little better but say going through the scales and jumping straight back on the freeway. It's almost better to manually shift it in the (M) mode.

 

The other thing I found is if starting out from a light to turn left onto a freeway on ramp. It will start in 2nd gear and just as you hit the center of your turn shift to 5th gear and really take off.

Hauling house paint I have to be very careful and cautious.

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Henry you need to do a seminar on Solidworks

Ronbo:

 

At the Hutch Rally, Henry gave me some basics, But mostly, I am self taught.

 

I joined a local solidworks group that meets once a month. I always learn something from these people.

 

I also google search what I want to do and, I do a search on Youtube. Youtube seems to be best because the Youtube person talks through all of the steps, with the visuals. I have the internet computer (on Youtube) and the solidwork computer on at the same time. Then, I just go step by step following the Youtube video, which can be paused, if needed.

 

So far, I have managed to do OK. But, my initial learning curve was p a i n f u l l y slow.

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Based on some feedback from JC, I went ahead and added receiver tubes on both sides of the bed for winch arms. The receivers will be exposed when the cargo doors open, as will be the slots for ramp storage and ramp connection (still working on the connection part).

 

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"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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Nice touch.

 

Would dropping the receiver pin vertically instead of horizontally be easier than trying to go through 4 holes and needing an extra long pin?

 

If you added another receiver to each side you could use them to hold stake side panels for above the deck material hauling.

2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch
2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler
Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you!

 

Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/

for much more info on HDT's.

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Clever. I like it. But, will the bolts/screws holding the fastener track interfere with the receiver?

 

Thanks. There is a gap on either side of the receiver tube that will allow a 6" extension to slide right through and hold the nuts on the bottom to secure the bed plates. It shouldn't be an issue, but thanks for the suggestion.

 

Nice touch.

 

Would dropping the receiver pin vertically instead of horizontally be easier than trying to go through 4 holes and needing an extra long pin?

 

If you added another receiver to each side you could use them to hold stake side panels for above the deck material hauling.

 

It would probably be easier, but the VersaTie track resides directly above the receiver tube. Inserting the pin shouldn't be an issue since the entire beam will be visible with the doors open. I could also put a small tube between the receiver tube and the main floor support. I don't think that will be necessary, though, but something I'll definitely pay attention to when doing the initial assembly. Thanks, Dave.

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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If the tube is used for a winch no pin is needed as all the force will try to pull the winch mount further into the tube.

 

I have some additional ideas for the receiver tube. :D

 

You're probably right about not needing a pin, but I will still use a pin if I winch load (I hope to drive on and off). Otherwise, I'll have a painted surface impacting another painted surface, even if I built a stop onto the winch arm. I think the pin is the cleanest way to secure it.

 

Thanks for the feedback, though.

 

 

If you added another receiver to each side you could use them to hold stake side panels for above the deck material hauling.

 

I have thought about the stake pockets for quite a while. I definitely want to incorporate that, but haven't come up with a clean method to do so yet. I may just use the VersaTie track and some threaded studs to secure the bed sides.

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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"Inserting the pin shouldn't be an issue since the entire beam will be visible with the doors open"

 

Does that mean there aren't storage boxes under the deck?

 

I'm just thinking about water getting in there if there are boxes, and not sealed top.

Rocky & Sheri Rhoades
'01 Volvo 770
2016 DRV Mobile Suites, Houston
HERO Makers Ministry

 

30495168531_143d8fb8d6_m.jpg

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"Inserting the pin shouldn't be an issue since the entire beam will be visible with the doors open"

 

Does that mean there aren't storage boxes under the deck?

 

I'm just thinking about water getting in there if there are boxes, and not sealed top.

 

There will definitely be storage boxes under the deck, but they will be completely sealed units (including the roof of the box) and reside under the main floor supports.

 

You will be able to reach your hand in through the ramp storage passages to easily insert the receiver tube pin.

 

I'm thinking through the bed mounting options and I think I have come up with a workable solution. I'm going to provide a somewhat modular mounting system, allowing for various types of connection systems. For my truck, I think I'm going to use u-bolts. I like this approach because it allows some variance in the exact mounting position. Once the bed is completely assembled, positioning the bed will be the last step. Then, just tighten down the u-bolts and it will be secure. This approach also lets me use some good vibration dampening material between the bed and chassis. Using this approach, I could easily swap out the u-bolts for welded on (to the chassis) mounting brackets without changing the bed design. That way, there is an option on whatever works better. Depending on where each floor joist lines up, the u-bolt system might not be possible. That's when a different type of bracket could be used for that particular connection point.

 

In the images below, I took the easy route and just used long bolts, for the purposes of demonstration.

 

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Do you guys see any issues with this mounting approach?

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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I'm thinking through the bed mounting options and I think I have come up with a workable solution. I'm going to provide a somewhat modular mounting system, allowing for various types of connection systems. For my truck, I think I'm going to use u-bolts. I like this approach because it allows some variance in the exact mounting position. Once the bed is completely assembled, positioning the bed will be the last step. Then, just tighten down the u-bolts and it will be secure. This approach also lets me use some good vibration dampening material between the bed and chassis. Using this approach, I could easily swap out the u-bolts for welded on (to the chassis) mounting brackets without changing the bed design.

Do you guys see any issues with this mounting approach?

 

 

This is exactly how my bed is attached to the truck, 8 U bolts. Not a single issue after 5 years/60k miles. In all this time only one nut has taken 1/4 turn, and that was in the first few months. Figured it was just the bed settling into place.

2017 Entegra Anthem 44A

SOLD - 2004 Volvo 780. 465hp and 10sp Auto Shift (from 2010~2017)

SOLD - 2009 Montana 3400RL

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This is exactly how my bed is attached to the truck, 8 U bolts. Not a single issue after 5 years/60k miles. In all this time only one nut has taken 1/4 turn, and that was in the first few months. Figured it was just the bed settling into place.

 

Thanks, Rick. That's exactly what I hoped to hear.

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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Nuts n bolts is how many truck bodies are secured. Often with a spring under the nut warsher so the system has a little give to allow the truck frame to twist properly while the torsion is not applied to the mounting point of the body. Sometimes a hardwood :o strip is used on top of the frame rail...

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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In the stone age....... hardwood strips were indeed place on top of the mating frame rail so that point-contact-stress-risers were minimized........metal frame rails mated to metal bed rails tend to build "high-local-loads" when the truck has "dynamic-events" (engineering prof lingo.....as he hammered us wanna-be geeks)

 

Seems lo-tech these days to use........wood..........maybe some geek has something made from recycled fast-food boxes or toe-nail clippings but wood seems to still work well........

 

It seems like a fun concept to have the UPS lady bring a truck bed out of the Brown van one box at a time.......zero your brain must be running at near-over-temp most of the time.......your projects are a ton of fun........and work.....

 

Drive on.........(Some wood is ........good)

97 Freightshaker Century Cummins M11-370 / 1350 /10 spd / 3:08 /tandem/ 20ft Garage/ 30 ft Curtis Dune toybox with a removable horse-haul-module to transport Dolly-The-Painthorse to horse camps and trail heads all over the Western U S

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We must still be in the the Stone Age as we used the hardwood strips and U-bolts.

Dave

2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch
2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler
Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you!

 

Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/

for much more info on HDT's.

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I had about given up on having the platform of the bed installed by the rally, but I got some good news from the local laser shop after a lengthy meeting on Friday. They're *pretty sure* they can have it done in time for me to get it painted and assembled in time to leave on Friday morning. It seems my life is full of all-nighters getting ready the weekends. This last weekend (yesterday) was a UTV race, which took several late evenings to get the RZR ready.

 

81a042af-f9cb-4c8a-91cf-dd35281e6b0c-s.j
That is the RZR that will be carried on the bed of the Volvo.
If you notice in the background, you'll see the F450. Since I parked the Volvo (no rear fenders), I decided to take the F450 on this trip. Geez, I didn't realize how awesome it was to pull that trailer with the Volvo. This is the first time I have pulled the new trailer with anything but the Volvo. With a loaded weight somewhere close to 22,000 lbs., this trailer is a pretty sizable load. The F450 REALLY doesn't like this trailer. I can't wait to hook back up to the Volvo.
If the bed isn't ready in time, I have a good plan B. JC has shipped a couple of rear fenders to me. They should be here in the next couple of days. Huge thanks to him and his crew for the trouble they went to get them out quickly.

"Willy Mammoth" - Volvo 730, Sold

Heartland Cyclone 4000 Toy Hauler
T-Minus 26 years and counting to being a full timer.

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You may want use the fenders under the bed any way. We used ours and I think it helps keep some of the road crap off the boxes and underside of the bed.

 

Also if you do use ubolts check to see if you have room to drop them in from above. We had to mount some of ours upside down due to their like location. We double nut all of ours and have not had any loosen.

Dave

2005 Freightliner Century S/T, Singled, Air ride ET Jr. hitch
2019 46'+ Dune Sport Man Cave custom 5th wheel toy hauler
Owner of the 1978 Custom Van "Star Dreamer" which might be seen at a local car show near you!

 

Check out http://www.hhrvresource.com/

for much more info on HDT's.

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Little off topic. But what do you think about the new Yamaha?

broncohauler.

 

The website, below, may give you more information on the new Yamaha. I have belonged to it for years. The moderators are a bit looser. :rolleyes: As a result, the members have some spirited debates . . . . . on everything.

 

 

http://www.rhinoforums.net/index.php?pageid=active_topics

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