RV FIRE EARLY WARNING SYSTEM

[NeverEasy]

I am currently house-bound.  DW is having some health issues and I have to stay close so I needed an indoor project.

With RandyA's issue with fire and his report of the danger involved, I decided to build an early warning system.  Something that will monitor the places in the RV where a fire is most likely to occur and maybe even catch them while a problem exists but not yet started a fire.    I chose: 1. Battery compartment 2. Front storage 3. Basement 4. Furnace Area 5. Converter Area 6. Hot water tank outdoors  and the freezer and frig (why not).  I also put in two plain old temperature/humidity sensors to monitor those things indoors and out.

This is basically an early warning system for a potential fire situation in an RV.  It  monitors the temperatures in 8 locations, displays them on a 20 x 4 OpenLCD display, alarms if any sensor's temperature exceeds a set parameter, and turns the back-light from green to red.    
There are eight DS18B20 one-wire temperature sensors and two DHT-22 temperature/humidity sensors wired to an Arduino type micro-controller (RedBoard in this case).  This device will monitor the temperature in 8 different locations in the RV, two of which are the freezer and frig. 

If a sensor warms up enough to go past the changeable setting, the green back-light screen will turn red, an alarm will sound, and the display will show the temperature of the sensor in alarm condition.  When the temperature on the sensor returns to normal, the alarm will cease and the display will show the current temperatures.  The back-light will stay red until the micro-controller is reset.  
The two DHT-22 sensors are simply there to read the indoor and outdoor temperatures and humidity levels.

The device could have many different applications.  It will run off a computer USB port or any power level that the micro-controller will accept.  This one uses the RV's 12VDC dropped down to 5VDC with a SMAKN DC-DC car power converter.  

The wires have been pulled in the RV.  Now I need to get over to the mill and cut out a mounting plate and connect everything up.

Would be a good project of the National HDT Rally if anyone is interested. 

You can see it in operation here: https://youtu.be/-9ctMc8RdAg

Click For Full-Size Image.

[runaway parents]

Wow what a cool idea!

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Very nice!

 

[COFLTravler]

Oh Chet.…..

You keep coming up with these great ideas of which I want all of them.....

 

Mark

[Pat & Pete]

Excellent .

To bad the video is not available . 

This video is unavailable.

 

[RandyA]

I like it, Chet.  Now, more wires to run.  I believe I may have all the parts but the sensors.  I see a five pack on Amazon for less than $12 - which ones did you use?  Would you share your program for the Arduino?

[noteven]

Digi-Key has many electronic parts.

unlike me, you have to know what they are 😀

[NeverEasy]

17 hours ago, RandyA said:

I like it, Chet.  Now, more wires to run.  I believe I may have all the parts but the sensors.  I see a five pack on Amazon for less than $12 - which ones did you use?  Would you share your program for the Arduino?

Got both from Amazon.  DS18B20 comes in several different packages.  I got the T0-92 3-pins (10 pack) for all the places that will be dry.  I mounted them to a circuit board and then drilled a hole in the circuit board for a place to put a zip tie through.  Also gave me a place to number them as they are address specific.   

For the places that might get wet, I bought the waterproof package of 5.  They are slower to respond to temperature changes but still do the job.  

I recommend reading these two documents if you will use the same OpenLCD I did. 

arduino-info - Brick-Temperature-DS18B20

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/avr-based-serial-enabled-lcds-hookup-guide/introduction

Wire running was fairly easy.  The sensor needs to be at the top of the space it is in so I just followed the existing wire runs in the 5er.

Sure, I will share the program.  I am currently modifying it to cause it to display the maximum temperature each sensors reads (next to the current temperature) until it is reset.  This will allow me to adjust the alarm points better.  Might prevent some false alarms.

 

 

 

[NeverEasy]

On 9/7/2018 at 2:01 PM, Pat & Pete said:

Excellent .

To bad the video is not available . 

This video is unavailable.

Well, this proves I am not a social media kind of person.  I don't post much.  I looked at it and found it was "private".  Try again if you wish and let me know if it works.  Thanks for letting me know.   Chet

 

https://youtu.be/-9ctMc8RdAg

[Pat & Pete]

55 minutes ago, NeverEasy said:

Well, this proves I am not a social media kind of person.  I don't post much.  I looked at it and found it was "private".  Try again if you wish and let me know if it works.  Thanks for letting me know.   Chet

 

https://youtu.be/-9ctMc8RdAg

You must have done something right . The video shows nicely , this time .

[Mastercraft]

Early detection of fire in the aircraft industry is taken very seriously and is considered a requirement. A detected fire is responded to with a surpression method and raising the cabin altitude to a max safe level to take O2 away from the fire.....but typically there is only one shot or limited volume of extinguisher material.....for example, Halon.

The detection method on aircraft involves a material called firewire....no not the 1394 data link.  It's advantage is reliability.....it can be statigically located, it is easy to test each loop before flight and it doesn't false alarm.  Also, firewire loops can be installed and taped or wallpapered over inside a cavity that contains a frig, water heater, furnace, a wheel well, around an engine in a class A, etc.

Firewire would be my choice for doing a early warning system.  

[Pappy Yokum]

6 hours ago, Mastercraft said:

Early detection of fire in the aircraft industry is taken very seriously and is considered a requirement. A detected fire is responded to with a surpression method and raising the cabin altitude to a max safe level to take O2 away from the fire.....but typically there is only one shot or limited volume of extinguisher material.....for example, Halon.

The detection method on aircraft involves a material called firewire....no not the 1394 data link.  It's advantage is reliability.....it can be statigically located, it is easy to test each loop before flight and it doesn't false alarm.  Also, firewire loops can be installed and taped or wallpapered over inside a cavity that contains a frig, water heater, furnace, a wheel well, around an engine in a class A, etc.

Firewire would be my choice for doing a early warning system.  

 

Excellent thread & posts!

Google search of - "Linear Heat Detection" -  (and Fire Wire) will provide lots of valuable info.

One of those sources is - http://www.safefiredetection.com/products/linear-heat-detection

As noted (especially by Randy) -  two things must be at the top of the list for life safety in a fire situation - "anywhere"

#1. Early Warning, - and -

#2. Availability of instant egress.

IMO -  (for #2) a 5th wheel bedroom should have some type of exit *door*  to the exterior, rather than the usual  "pop-out" window!

.

 

 

[RandyA]

19 hours ago, Pappy Yokum said:

As noted (especially by Randy) -  two things must be at the top of the list for life safety in a fire situation - "anywhere"

#1. Early Warning, - and -

#2. Availability of instant egress.

IMO -  (for #2) a 5th wheel bedroom should have some type of exit *door*  to the exterior, rather than the usual  "pop-out" window!

.

 

 

 

Now you have me wondering about the possibility of fabricating a trap door that drops to the ground.  In our fiver that would have to be on the closet floor. Easy to get into and also hide the added opening.  It all depends on what structure one would find between the floor and outside Filon.  If it is just a few aluminum floor joist it could be doable.  If there is a steel framing structure in the way that is a different story.   But, our recent fire started with the golf cart that was parked under the front of the fiver.  The fire from the cart spread very, very quickly to the front of the trailer.  A door, egress through the window or another opening would not have been possible.  The ONLY way out was down the stairs and out the only door.  Of course, a fire in the mid or rear section of the fiver would have reversed the options. 

[noteven]

I doodled a system that runs my bed slide right on out the hole in the wall when you yard on the red handle...

[NeverEasy]

On 9/7/2018 at 8:49 PM, RandyA said:

I like it, Chet.  Now, more wires to run.  I believe I may have all the parts but the sensors.  I see a five pack on Amazon for less than $12 - which ones did you use?  Would you share your program for the Arduino?

Got both from Amazon.  DS18B20 comes in several different packages.  I got the T0-92 3-pins for all the places that will be dry.  I mounted them to a circuit board and then drilled a hole in the circuit board for a place to put a zip tie through.  Also gave me a place to number them as they are address specific.   

For the places that might get wet, I bought the waterproof package of 5.  They are slower to respond to temperature changes but still do the job.  

I recommend reading these two documents if you will use the same OpenLCD I did. 

arduino-info - Brick-Temperature-DS18B20

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/avr-based-serial-enabled-lcds-hookup-guide/introduction

I have installed the device in the 5th wheel.  It did not like an extended "star system" when I added the two waterproof sensors for the frig and freezer.  So I had to add a second one-wire bus to the program and put those two sensors on it. 

I also changed the program to display and store the highest temperature each sensor sees since the last Arduino reset.  Therefore, if you walk into the RV and the back light is red, you can see what the temperature got to on the offending sensor.  Reset it to get back to a green back light.

Here is a new video with it installed. 

 

 

[Pappy Yokum]

On 9/9/2018 at 7:18 PM, RandyA said:

Now you have me wondering about the possibility of fabricating a trap door that drops to the ground.  In our fiver that would have to be on the closet floor. Easy to get into and also hide the added opening.  It all depends on what structure one would find between the floor and outside Filon. 

Wondering is good!

Forget the brand of 5th, but a while back one of the "majors" had a "laundry chute" trapdoor in the floor from the bedroom to the storage compt underneath.

IIRC - it was between the bed and shower - close to the bed.

The laundry chute "gimmick"  didn't ring my chimes  - and probably didn't do well as a selling point, but *now* it would be interesting to see it again  - for the structural possibilities of  a "full" exit (to the great outdoors) from whatever location.. 

.

[NeverEasy]

If anyone is interested, I posted the project here: https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/beekeeper/rv-and-home-fire-early-waning-hot-spot-detector-7d76be?f=1

I intend to add propane/carbon monoxide/methane sensors to the bedroom next.  Those will only show on the LCD if an alarm condition exists.

[DesertMiner]

Thanks....for posting this great project!

[Darryl&Rita]

Propane sensors, not methane. 

[NeverEasy]

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Propane sensors, not methane. 

Don't know why.  I intend to use at least two of the following:

The MQ-2 smoke sensor is sensitive to smoke and to the following flammable gases: LPG, Butane, Propane, Methane, Alcohol, Hydrogen

MQ-6 gas sensor can detect kinds of flammable gases, especially

has high sensitivity to LPG.

MQ-4 gas sensor has high sensitivity to methane, also has anti-interference to alcohol and other gases.

MQ-7 gas sensor has good sensitivity to carbon monoxide.

I still need to do some reading to get the right mix.  The MQ-2 will get too hot to touch so I may go with the other three if they don't present the same issue.

 

 

 

[Darryl&Rita]

Ahh, ok. Gas detection sensors are typically built for specific gases, but your manufacturer seems to build generic sensors. Don't forget that propane is heavier than air, once you start mounting them.

[NeverEasy]

1 hour ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Ahh, ok. Gas detection sensors are typically built for specific gases, but your manufacturer seems to build generic sensors. Don't forget that propane is heavier than air, once you start mounting them.

Thanks,  I still have to do some research on each sensors unique capabilities.  For example, the MQ-2 is a smoke detector (mount high) and also sensitive to a lot of heavy gases.  Some testing may be required.

[JPL]

Chet    You have outdone yourself. What a ET Prize you have created. Keep it up and I am going to come down and see it. Take care and tell Deb we're thinking of her.   Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

[NeverEasy]

Thanks, Pat. 

Come soon.  We will be leaving for the National Rally on October 5th with a stop at Branson, MO for a few days. 

Are you going?

The project is still in a changing state.  I probably will not get enough time between now and departure to make  changes.  I will have some time to work on it on the way.

Volvo heat/AC blower motor quit.  TMI had one in stock with fans for $118.  Replacing it today along with the new version of the Hayes Air Brake Controller.

 

 

[sclord2002]

Chet, "new version of Hayes Brake Controller" ??  I didn't know there was a new version.  How does the new one differ from the old one.  By the way, I am in awe of your fire detection system....very clever.      Charlie