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About Mastercraft

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  1. Bend?....I think there is a rectangular tubing size that could be CN plasma cut that would yield zero waist. Two operations, cut, then water jet the holes since plasma doesn't like to make holes.
  2. At 52,000 lbs, and an 18 ft gap between truck and trailer, going 63-65, it does 7.0 to 7.2 mpg by the mileage guesser, 3.36 rear and OD Ishift. 7.5 mpg from top off to top off if you calculate. D16 engine. Your mileage may vary. As long as I don't have to stop for fuel to get half way across the country, don't really care about whether I am at 7 or 12 mpg. Considering the other HDT costs, even if you do the work yourself, fuel ain't that big a deal. For example, had ours for 8 yrs. Did 10 new tires before this summers adventure cause 8 yrs is pushing it....makes the difference betw
  3. Johnson bar if your rear brakes have air in the actuation path
  4. Mastercraft

    Front Spoiler

    Sorry, I got the Volvo factory pieces from this outfit called DEX. They seem to have overstock items. You loose some approach ground clearance with them installed.
  5. Mastercraft

    Front Spoiler

    Greetings - Its a three piece all plastic bolt on. There are two pieces that extend down from the frame area to stabilize the outer pieces. I fabricated my own as the Volvo parts must have been made of gold. I put one of these spoilers on and gained 3 MPG Kidding Rich
  6. When I was looking at adding generator, we had a couple design criteria. It had to be able to sit for almost a year and start right up (that means no gas gens), it has to be VERY quiet, it had to provide 240V as our dryer is 240, it had to last long enough that I would never have to replace it, be very difficult to steal, and later on I added it can't cost $10,000 or more. So, I started down the 12kw Onan diesel path......that's when I added - it can't cost $10,000, so scratch that one. I happened upon this Generac that is intended for off the grid cabins etc. 6kw propane, configurable
  7. I had a similar issue with having to work to keep it going straight. I checked for play in the steering box, that was fine. Solution, the toe in was way off, like 1/4" + of toe. After attempting the simple adjustment, I determined why it was not adjusted. It was rusted solid. After I could move it, set the toe, now it goes straight down the road. My pin is back a ways as well but I still have almost 10K on the front all hooked and loaded. Rich
  8. You have a good list of tools. You may consider a handheld voltmeter, assortment of stranded wire, shrink sleeving, soldering iron, a roll of self fusing silicone tape, duct tape, electrical tape, tie wraps (real ones), and for what it costs, a governor. Me, I think my fuel mileage may be impacted by the "what if" stuff that I carry. Have a good one Rich
  9. Had you considered a HDT scrap yard? When I did ours, got 6+ ft of the 300mm Volvo frame (both sides with a couple cross members) and 6 ft of some frame rails that fit nicely inside the 300mm stuff that I used as fish plates. I think they charged me $10 a ft and they sent a guy our with a torch and fork lift to cut it and load it up for me.
  10. I have my genset configured to provide two 25 amp legs (for a 240V dryer). The rest of the coach consists of 120V loads. Got the ACs on different legs that draw about 12 amps each. The next biggest load is the microwave at 10 or 12 amps. Never had a problem or even heard the genset grunt when adding load. So, if you can do laundry when the ACs are off, a 6 KW genset will cover you fine at a lot less $$$ than a 12 KW. Also, I recommend putting the genset on the truck so it doesn't vibrate the coach.....and a lot less risk of CO poisoning. Check out these EcoGen gensets for off th
  11. My truck did the same thing when I got it, a lot of work making it go straight. It had more than 1/4" of toe in. Adjusted to zeroish, no more wander. Be very careful cranking on the steering box lash adjustment. The real procedure for adjusting lash involves taking off then link that goes from the arm mounted on the box to the left steering knuckle. Wiggle the arm back and forth to detect any play. Loosen or tighten the screw just enough to get no play, then tighten the lock nut while holding the screw position. If the lash is tightened beyond zero, it will eat the steering box in
  12. Hi Henry - I'm a "non-dumper" but with a twist. I would like to dump the sled so it clears the Mini Cooper (with margin) when I get it down off the truck. With the sled aired up, I need a spotter to make sure the head doesn't snag on something under the car. With the sled dumped, no spotter required. I while back I sent you a cut sheet for a three way ball valve that would allow for said dumpage and undumpage by venting the bags while blocking the signal from the leveling valve. Have you designed a dumpage system with a ball valve? thx Rich
  13. Greetings - Post summer adventure update. The spare tire didn't move a bit in 3000 miles. Yes, there is a cheap ratchet strap to keep it snug against the frame, but the paint isn't chewed up on the wheel or the round tube. Every time I checked it with the IR gun, it was 110 deg F or less. During my one parked regen, with the fairing open, it was only slightly above ambient. After that, I quit checking it. Note to self - this is the last year for the Michelin XPS ribs.....they will be 8 yrs old, look fine, but not going to push it any more. (had great luck, #15,000 on the axles
  14. Greetings - I need to replace the seal below the curved shower door. It appears to be some sort of clear material, like Tygon tubing, extruded to a particular shape. Is there an RV seal source that anyone would recommend? thanks Rich
  15. You may consider a MTTP solar charge controller. With these, you can use the less expensive (in most cases) higher OCV panels....just be sure to isolate that line to the roof from the 12V system first.
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