Darryl&Rita

I used Engineering Toolbox regularly when I was working in that area. They don't need correcting, as the numerical values and units used represent the same pressures used in the earlier post I commented on. In the earlier, now corrected post, the numerical values and units didn't represent a zero atmospheric pressure situation.

This tells me that you have a short in the wiring harness. If you can pull the harness, remove the bundling tape, and lay hands on each and every wire in the bundle, I'm willing to bet you will find some worn insulation.

Done it. Didn't enjoy it. It almost turns into work, just existing. Add a full time job at the same temperatures, makes winter long.

Scrap's backyard, then. He may stop by with some input. Too far away from my homebase to offer advice.

Not quite. The pressure isn't measured in psig, but psia. 14.7 psig would still be enough pressure for RV appliances to operate. Sadly, they won't operate in those temperatures.

Define local. What side of the border are you on?

The last project involved several years of Mesa summers, and an RV that was nearly abandoned mid-season due to snowbirds and health issues. He got sick, recovered enough to be shipped home, she pulled the shades, turned off the utilities, and followed him. 2 or 3 years later, he's gone, she's moving forward. Used the RV for a couple weeks... Took almost another 2 weeks of work every day to get the black tank to start moving. I don't think we were fighting a pyramid, as much as a flat sheet of dried ewww. Of course, the solids settled to the bottom, and the piping.

Used Linda's plan before. It's not for impatient people, but it works. If you can move the rig with water in the tank, it speeds things up.

Big power bill from leaving the block heater powered, unless you plan on travelling. Pull the battery cables, make sure your coolant is up to snuff, walk away.

We don't really need pics, but they will help the newcomers. Get in touch with a driveline shop, have your u-joint size ready, and they will be able to tell you what angles that joint wants. The angles are measured off the face of the yoke. The reason I'm saying to get ahold of a driveline shop, instead of Freightliner, is because you don't have a stock driveshaft anymore. When the axle was removed, the shaft had to be modified by replacing the rear yoke. The yokes are different on the front axle and rear.

If only. More than a handful of years before I get my license to be grumpy, full time. I'm the kid, remember? ETA: When Henry was reminiscing about early camping adventures with his plane and family, he revealed that I'm younger than them.

Given the difference that skirting makes, by itself, this will make a huge difference in the comfort level of your winter. I've used a flameless catalytic heater under an RV before, but they add too much moisture to a confined space, and needed more venting than I was willing to deal with.

As soon as you said trike, I remembered you saying that previously. My mental block happens to be between my ears.

My bad. I thought you were building with a smart in mind. Still, check the break over angle on the trike, before gluing any metal.