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NeverEasy's Achievements

  1. Thanks! I will add a T20 torx to the car's took kit. Might even remove the solenoid as a preemptive measure. Had read on the internet that the sticking key is a common problem but none of them tied it to the rubber boot as a cause.
  2. Deb and I are on our way. Departed VA on Wednesday. Stayed at Wytheville, VA that night. Now at Clarksville TN RV park. Will be at Springfield, MO KOA tomorrow night and then on to Hutch on Saturday. See you soon! Chet
  3. This is where they should be: ECR 2021 - East Coast HDT Rally but the pictures did not open for me either. They did earlier this year. Chet
  4. Years ago, I replaced everything involved on a Gen 1, including the cross-member. I posted a rather lengthy how to on this forum. It can be found via the "Whats New" in the Resource Guide. Try this link: Replacing Gen 1 Cab Air Bags | Heavy Haulers RV Resource Guide (hhrvresource.com) The biggest problem most have is the captive nuts inside the cab tubes. The bolts usually won't let go and the nuts twist off the welds holding them to the tubes. I cut off the bolts and removed the nuts. Welded new nuts to a piece of steel and slide it inside the square tube.
  5. This what is my #1 Edition? Edition #1 Package Panorama Roof, Fog Lamps, Rain & Light Sensor, Wheels: 16" 8-Y-Spoke Alloy, LED Lighting, Daytime Running Lights w/Integrated Light Guide, LED Tail Lights, Edition #1 Sticker, Specific Floor Mats, Urban, Alloy Pedals w/Rubber Studs, Chrome Tip Exhaust, Lowered Suspension (-10mm), Shift Paddles, Tires: 16"
  6. Ours is a 2016 #1 Edition. That is a Prime with some LED lighting upgrades, nicer instrumentation, and it is turbo. Much faster than our 2011 Prime was.
  7. Without a trailer connected to the blue wire, you will read "open circuit voltage" which is always source voltage. The LED is a basically a high impedance meter and acts as one. It should be lite bright at all times without a trailer connected. The report that you have always got 12VDC on the blue wire and it does not change with the movement of the Hayes lever is normal. Again open circuit voltage (no current flow) does not care what is between the measurement point and the source voltage. No current flow means no load on the circuit. You can think of it as the electrons have no where to go so they pile up at the end of the wire until they equal the battery voltage. If you hook up a trailer and you see that the voltage (or current) varies with Hayes movement then all is well. You may have a bad red LED. Is yours the old type (no white wire coming out of the Hayes box) or the new one that does have a white ground wire from the mfg. If it is the old type, they have a history of being problematic. Never hook up a Hayes to air over electric over hydraulic (disk brakes with a controller). The output of the Hayes cannot be limited and will lock up the brakes with only minor movement of the Hayes. Chet
  8. No power to various places. I doubt it is a fuse problem. If you understand "open circuit voltage" then you can test for a bad connection on the hot side or ground side on a place you can isolate the load from the circuit. You can't use lighting circuits as it is difficult to know you have all the bulbs removed. However, there are a couple of places that have no loads unless you plug something into them. The cigarette lighter and the CB radio connections are a good place. Read the voltage at either of those two places. If there is battery voltage on them but they will not run an electrical load then there is a high resistance between the battery and either the hot or ground. I am thinking a ground problem. Connect a ground wire to the battery ground and connect the other end to the CB dashboard connector and see if that fixes things. Good luck, Chet
  9. I am not a Gen II owner and, therefore, have not ventured into those schematics much. I opened them this A.M. and tried to trace through them to find the path for brake lights. They pass through the Lighting Control Module. If you are not getting any codes for light faults, I would want to start there or before it. The LCM should throw a code if it knows there is a request for that lamp to work. I would start by finding the brake pressure switch (direct input to the LCM) and see if it is working. Check the trailer connector brake pin and see if it is getting 12VDC (bottom right pin if running a RV 7-way). Are you running a jackalopee? If so, is the LED for brake lights coming on?
  10. Here are two pics from Google Maps with distance on the sites for reference.
  11. Here is a Google Map picuture. CG is on the lower left. Dad's Bluegrass Campground. Note that Goggle shows Dad's right up by the main road.
  12. Goggle maps does a poor job of putting you on the CG. Open maps, go off I-65 north, turn left. Go past the Pilot that is on the left side(there is also one on the right). Turn left between Pilot and Speedco on KOA road. Proceed straight until you get to Dad's Bluegrass CG. As I stated before, I measured some of the sites in the middle of the park using Google Maps. There are some at least 75 feet.
  13. We have stayed in the Nashville North KOA and the Bowling Greene, KY KOA. Looked at Google and found: Dad’s Bluegrass Campground 2889 Scottsville Rd Franklin, KY 42134 (270) 253-5191 Used Google Maps and measured some 70-80 foot sites. Appears to be enough room to get in and out. No experience with this CG. DAD'S BLUEGRASS CAMPGROUND (dadsbluegrasscampground.com)
  14. Thanks for the info. Just put 4 new on a 2016. Had to wait a month for tire shop to get the front ones. Continental.
  15. For the RV Socket, I use crimp ring terminal lugs. Cut off the insulation to save room. Crimp and solder. Install with the crimp big part inboard. They will bend in enough to get the cover on. The ring prevents wires from pulling out.
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