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Everything posted by Mastercraft

  1. Bend?....I think there is a rectangular tubing size that could be CN plasma cut that would yield zero waist. Two operations, cut, then water jet the holes since plasma doesn't like to make holes.
  2. At 52,000 lbs, and an 18 ft gap between truck and trailer, going 63-65, it does 7.0 to 7.2 mpg by the mileage guesser, 3.36 rear and OD Ishift. 7.5 mpg from top off to top off if you calculate. D16 engine. Your mileage may vary. As long as I don't have to stop for fuel to get half way across the country, don't really care about whether I am at 7 or 12 mpg. Considering the other HDT costs, even if you do the work yourself, fuel ain't that big a deal. For example, had ours for 8 yrs. Did 10 new tires before this summers adventure cause 8 yrs is pushing it....makes the difference betw
  3. Johnson bar if your rear brakes have air in the actuation path
  4. Mastercraft

    Front Spoiler

    Sorry, I got the Volvo factory pieces from this outfit called DEX. They seem to have overstock items. You loose some approach ground clearance with them installed.
  5. Mastercraft

    Front Spoiler

    Greetings - Its a three piece all plastic bolt on. There are two pieces that extend down from the frame area to stabilize the outer pieces. I fabricated my own as the Volvo parts must have been made of gold. I put one of these spoilers on and gained 3 MPG Kidding Rich
  6. When I was looking at adding generator, we had a couple design criteria. It had to be able to sit for almost a year and start right up (that means no gas gens), it has to be VERY quiet, it had to provide 240V as our dryer is 240, it had to last long enough that I would never have to replace it, be very difficult to steal, and later on I added it can't cost $10,000 or more. So, I started down the 12kw Onan diesel path......that's when I added - it can't cost $10,000, so scratch that one. I happened upon this Generac that is intended for off the grid cabins etc. 6kw propane, configurable
  7. I had a similar issue with having to work to keep it going straight. I checked for play in the steering box, that was fine. Solution, the toe in was way off, like 1/4" + of toe. After attempting the simple adjustment, I determined why it was not adjusted. It was rusted solid. After I could move it, set the toe, now it goes straight down the road. My pin is back a ways as well but I still have almost 10K on the front all hooked and loaded. Rich
  8. You have a good list of tools. You may consider a handheld voltmeter, assortment of stranded wire, shrink sleeving, soldering iron, a roll of self fusing silicone tape, duct tape, electrical tape, tie wraps (real ones), and for what it costs, a governor. Me, I think my fuel mileage may be impacted by the "what if" stuff that I carry. Have a good one Rich
  9. Had you considered a HDT scrap yard? When I did ours, got 6+ ft of the 300mm Volvo frame (both sides with a couple cross members) and 6 ft of some frame rails that fit nicely inside the 300mm stuff that I used as fish plates. I think they charged me $10 a ft and they sent a guy our with a torch and fork lift to cut it and load it up for me.
  10. I have my genset configured to provide two 25 amp legs (for a 240V dryer). The rest of the coach consists of 120V loads. Got the ACs on different legs that draw about 12 amps each. The next biggest load is the microwave at 10 or 12 amps. Never had a problem or even heard the genset grunt when adding load. So, if you can do laundry when the ACs are off, a 6 KW genset will cover you fine at a lot less $$$ than a 12 KW. Also, I recommend putting the genset on the truck so it doesn't vibrate the coach.....and a lot less risk of CO poisoning. Check out these EcoGen gensets for off th
  11. My truck did the same thing when I got it, a lot of work making it go straight. It had more than 1/4" of toe in. Adjusted to zeroish, no more wander. Be very careful cranking on the steering box lash adjustment. The real procedure for adjusting lash involves taking off then link that goes from the arm mounted on the box to the left steering knuckle. Wiggle the arm back and forth to detect any play. Loosen or tighten the screw just enough to get no play, then tighten the lock nut while holding the screw position. If the lash is tightened beyond zero, it will eat the steering box in
  12. Hi Henry - I'm a "non-dumper" but with a twist. I would like to dump the sled so it clears the Mini Cooper (with margin) when I get it down off the truck. With the sled aired up, I need a spotter to make sure the head doesn't snag on something under the car. With the sled dumped, no spotter required. I while back I sent you a cut sheet for a three way ball valve that would allow for said dumpage and undumpage by venting the bags while blocking the signal from the leveling valve. Have you designed a dumpage system with a ball valve? thx Rich
  13. Greetings - Post summer adventure update. The spare tire didn't move a bit in 3000 miles. Yes, there is a cheap ratchet strap to keep it snug against the frame, but the paint isn't chewed up on the wheel or the round tube. Every time I checked it with the IR gun, it was 110 deg F or less. During my one parked regen, with the fairing open, it was only slightly above ambient. After that, I quit checking it. Note to self - this is the last year for the Michelin XPS ribs.....they will be 8 yrs old, look fine, but not going to push it any more. (had great luck, #15,000 on the axles
  14. Greetings - I need to replace the seal below the curved shower door. It appears to be some sort of clear material, like Tygon tubing, extruded to a particular shape. Is there an RV seal source that anyone would recommend? thanks Rich
  15. You may consider a MTTP solar charge controller. With these, you can use the less expensive (in most cases) higher OCV panels....just be sure to isolate that line to the roof from the 12V system first.
  16. I have the same fuse provision. In the roof is a connector for the solar panel hookup. Its about right above the 12V fuse panel
  17. Don't all our trucks have oil bath bearings on the front axles? My truck may sit for 10 months.....starts right up ....APU starts right up too. .....should I be rolling the front tires every month?
  18. Air Lines? Good point, as some day, a BluDot system may find its way onto the unit. So, if I can "see the light", I'll try and get two 1/2" air lines and two #0 welding cables through there. Seems like that street side front compartment would be a great place to put the air over hydraulic stuff......so I don't loose any storage in the belly area. I have to find the recipe for dexter oil bath disc hubs, that fit my axles, that work with wheels that are rated for 120psi and 4500 lbs (hub centered vs stud centered). I remember something about having to go with two hydraulic actuators
  19. I did some snooping and feeling around at the front of the belly area where it meets the overhang.....that sheetmetal interface mentioned is like 3/16" c channel and the overhang is filled with insulation making for some bad fishing. Next I'll have to get out the Harbor Freight borescope with a flashlight in the pin box area....see if I can "see the light"
  20. Our Teton has the residential refrigerator requiring an inverter to operate on the road. The Magnum 2812 does well, driven by 4 Trojan group 16 batteries 740 Ahr worth. The charge line that comes through the 7 way trailer interface is not able to keep up with the refrigerator load...... almost, as the battery monitor says the bank is at 97% after 10 hrs on the road. I have a second power interface on the back of the truck, a two pin lift gate interface good for 200 amps. I want to run these lines to the battery bank so I can keep it at 13.6 or 13.8v going down the road, even it the
  21. Update - 3000 mile trip, one regen. I'm thinking the heat shields I put on the post turbo pipe my have provided some extra heat for passive regen.
  22. On the Gen II Volvo, which way do you turn the adjustment screw to raise the low beams? Also, the screw will also raise the high beams right? I saw something on the net about filing a shutter on the low beams to raise just the low beams. Anyone with experience with this?
  23. Early detection of fire in the aircraft industry is taken very seriously and is considered a requirement. A detected fire is responded to with a surpression method and raising the cabin altitude to a max safe level to take O2 away from the fire.....but typically there is only one shot or limited volume of extinguisher material.....for example, Halon. The detection method on aircraft involves a material called firewire....no not the 1394 data link. It's advantage is reliability.....it can be statigically located, it is easy to test each loop before flight and it doesn't false alarm. Also
  24. Another place to never go is Denver I25. It's fine for cars but the road woops are just right to get the natural resonant frequency of the truck to buck like a wild horse. And get this, there is a route to the east around the Denver crappy road and traffic....no problem right. WRONG....it a toll road and it will cost you more than $80 for one trip....E470....don't go there.
  25. Mastercraft

    Tires Hot?

    According to the IR thermometer, all four of the inside duals are at 10 or 15 deg hotter than the outside tires. The outsides are all the same temp and the insides are the same. Outsides and fronts at about 100 deg. Air pressure at 110 on the fronts and 100 for the rears. Anyone else seeing this?
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