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adding air fitting


GlennWest

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Just be sure to get the correct line, as ShortyO said. You need the emergency (trailer supply) line, which will be red if any of the air lines or fittings are color coded, not the blue service (signal air) line. Press in the red button when you need air at the connector.

Phil

 

2002 Teton Royal Aspen

2003 Kenworth T2000 - Cat C12 380/430 1450/1650, FreedomLine, 3.36 - TOTO . . . he's not in Kansas anymore.

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Or just tie into the back of your air tanks. I put a ball valve right at the tank (just in case) but if you use the same type air lines that are on your truck, you are no more likely to blow it than any other brake hose. No buttons to push, always on.

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Maybe missing something on tanks. Saw 1 plug in it but I didn't crawl to front of tanks. Tied into trailer air line and yes red knob gives air to it. Et is tied into rear of tank on pasanger side.

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Just so everyone realizes that you really do need this modification occasionally, we had to stop on the way home from the ECR to stretch the dog. DW saw low tire(s) on the passenger side. "Oh No" she cried. "Forsooth" I cried, & whupped out my emergency air hose to save the day. Unfortunately, It uz too short for anything except the truck proper.

 

"Goldarn it" I cried (sorta) and unhitched so I could reach the Tars. Had to remember the Red button trick. Pumped up, everything put away, ready to hook up.

 

Trailer is sitting off camber and it only took about 40 minutes to get the 5th wheel to latch.

 

Yes, we tried that. Whatever you said, we tried that.

 

DW suggested we invest in additional hose. I love it when she buys tools...

Paul & Paula + Daisy the amazing wiggle worm dog...

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Just so everyone realizes that you really do need this modification occasionally, we had to stop on the way home from the ECR to stretch the dog. DW saw low tire(s) on the passenger side. "Oh No" she cried. "Forsooth" I cried, & whupped out my emergency air hose to save the day. Unfortunately, It uz too short for anything except the truck proper.

 

"Goldarn it" I cried (sorta) and unhitched so I could reach the Tars. Had to remember the Red button trick. Pumped up, everything put away, ready to hook up.

 

Trailer is sitting off camber and it only took about 40 minutes to get the 5th wheel to latch.

 

Yes, we tried that. Whatever you said, we tried that.

 

DW suggested we invest in additional hose. I love it when she buys tools...

Truck run ok Paul? You've had enough trouble for April

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

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Paul, I hated to see your truck not running good. I hope you got it fixed. As for the air hose.... I THINK mine is long enough, but by the time we take off it will be.... Thanks for the lesson . If you ever come through OHIO let me know, you're always welcome at our farm.

Denver and Ms Judy Geitgey

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Thanks. I had to find them. Been kinked off, tie wrapped and stuffed away.

 

Hi Glenn - I'm not a fan of this method of blanking off air brake system circuits - prefer bull plugged fittings.... :ph34r:

"Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. 

 

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Just understand, when you tap into the emergency line, it will pop with low pressure. So now it's start the truck, etc. Whereas, tapped into a tank you can get pressure all the way down to zero. And like Big5er, I added a valve.

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Putting a fitting on one of your air tanks, as Big5er said above, is a very popular option if you are simply looking for an access point.

 

There are obviously other options out there, however, that is not something that you should take lightly, unless you have a good working knowledge on your air system.

 

Just sayin

John

Southern Nevada

2008 Volvo 780, D13, I-Shift

2017 Keystone Fuzion 420 Toyhauler 

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For those with BluDot, the simplest way to get access to truck air is to screw a quick connector into an Emergency gladhand. It's at the back of the truck, there's no additional plumbing, and you ought to have something blocking access to the truck's gladhands anyway, to keep dust, water, and insects out, which the gladhand/quick connector combination does.

Phil

 

2002 Teton Royal Aspen

2003 Kenworth T2000 - Cat C12 380/430 1450/1650, FreedomLine, 3.36 - TOTO . . . he's not in Kansas anymore.

ET Air Hitch

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As Phil says, that is exactly how mine are. Nice quick connect on glad hand at rear of truck.

Mine, three..... :)

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Currently I have mine plumbed directly into the wet tank with a ball valve to shut it off and two short hoses made up to either charge with shop air or run an air tool. The new truck will have the third gladhand at the back for a charge air line that will be used to provide air. I might also use one of the spare non latching solenoid switches for that as well (the other will be plumbed to a marine foghorn for fun)

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Why use the "wet" tank? If you wind up using it for air tools, wouldn't you rather run dry air through your tools?

MY PEOPLE SKILLS ARE JUST FINE.
~It's my tolerance to idiots that needs work.~

2005 Volvo 780 VED12 465hp / Freedomline transmission
singled mid position / Bed by Larry Herrin
2018 customed Mobile Suites 40KSSB3 

2014 smart Fortwo

 

 
 
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The cost of an extra 50 foot air hose is not that much. Just make sure you have the right fittings already installed. Saved me many times!

 

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Regarding the wet tank decision, the limits of your dryer are 3-5 mins pumping and 30% duty cycle (ie: loaded for 3 and unloaded for 7). So if you are using enough air to exceed this you need to add a wet tank and draw your aux air off of that. Or you need to get one of the twin dryers. Anytime you are using aux air you should lock your fan hub on.

 

For DRM/AD-IS dryers (like I suspect Glenn has) the reccommended way to get aux air is to add a tank and plumb it to fill via one (or more) of the accessory pp valve ports. Yes it is kind of a pain but it completely isolates whatever you are doing with your aux air from the rest of your truck air system so you can't drag it down with whatever you are pumping to.

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