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Scrap

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Everything posted by Scrap

  1. Bendix # 107284. Relay valve, 5.5psi crack.
  2. Scrap

    Drive line angles

    Call Freightliner, buy the axle seats and u-bolts that match the angle the fwd axle used to have (2,3,4 ~ish deg). I don't know Freightliner, but maybe the original fwd axle seats will work on a rear axle. The axle slant needs to get to near the engine slant or it won't work out. Set the axle, then you can do all the math (or hold/measure/adjust with a crane) and lower the centerbearing to get the perfect angles. Or maybe with the axle set right it'll be close enough.... Shaft angles need to target a compound 3 deg, shouldn't be much over 5deg if overdrive trans.
  3. Scrap

    4 door with sleeper

    Ha, yea, from Formulas to PEEC's, Super 10's to Ultrashifts, Jifflox to 6X2's, there always has been and always will be new fangled ways to save fuel and emissions on the pavement pounders! Sometimes it is nice to have a good ol regular truck that just does its thing!
  4. Safety & liability. Official term is "Cruise Control Rationality". The 3psi and 60 psi pressure switches use the same housing, but you really don't want to screw them up or lose a ground or something. Nowadays the truck can tell you to hit the brake or clutch in the dash display, but back then there wasn't really one. Usually it'll set a code in the cab controller when its stuck on rationality, and/or has a 1939 message that can be read. Can you add an indicator to your Silverleafs or Bluefire screens to display rationality status? I don't remember it being a 90's thing, and not really a thing till 2004/2005, but maybe it was a Volvo thing way earlier.
  5. Used one in a 48V sleeper truck couple years ago. Did it's thing, no issues. You could do whatever you wanted in that sleeper for days. Took it out of that truck and still use it all the time today to bench charge a couple big 48V temp modules I strap on the back of the electric trucks when their 650/48 converters die (like every other week). Lets the truck still run for the day while they figure out their HV converter woes. It is kinda big and clunky for just charging and no inverting, but already owned it and its been doing its thing well for a couple years now so she sticks around. It only charges at 45A and the Lithionics module wants 55A, but what the heck, I'm paid hourly 😉
  6. Scrap

    4 door with sleeper

    If tweaking the ratings just right is critical to your operation (aka you've got a niche in your state law or your life depends on a RV niche) you better get your trucks now or spend some serious time figuring our where you are going to land with GHG 2021 trucks later this year. You can still get your exact numbers and it doesn't have a GHG mileage limit (thanks to EMA and NTEA for fighting for what's right), but a mere mortal at the OEM stuffing specs into the GHG machine can't keep up with all the finer resolution of numbers. Plus it takes $ to do all the CFD studies, etc. So at least at the start you are going to get bucketed. You'll get close to what you need but for now you'll be grouped with your peers. Yep, there went your competitive edge against them... So you need to get with your regional sales manager now to get it figured out. Do the affected components affect your niche? Do you hold off all truck buying until you can get a big enough order to get yourself in the GEM model to get your exact spec orderable through 2027? Or do you buy a ton now and overhaul em till you retire? The OEM needs that info (thus your regional sales manager) so they can balance their future product plan. Your 100 trucks might wipe out the ability to sell 10 bush trucks and they need to balance that. So for an example for you guys situation: Your trucks will be vocational ratings and probably won't be able to get the electronic gizmos of a highway truck (HHD Vocation Regional group to be exact; Google it). Say Jack gets his secret sauce together and wants to do 100 trucks for next year, with the first one ready for the rally this October. He gets that 2020 built with the 700HP Volvo, a direct drive IShift, 20K axle with 15K suspension, the biggest condo you've ever seen, and special fairings with integral drom and tips that push air around the car and reattach at the sweet spot of the trailer. He's got his weight ratings just right so it is the first one under FET. Truck's built, bed's put on, heads to the rally. Rally goes crazy, 1/3 of the forum trucks are dropped on the spot for Jack's new one, and he goes home and gets to drawing the new bed and lasering a pile of iron. Now after awhile the fun turns into paperwork and he ain't doing none of this EPA horsepuckey. He ain't payin NTEA their lynch fee to register himself as a secondary GHG manufacturer with the OEM's. He tells his Volvo salesman to shove it -we're repeating that VIN we built last fall and that is that. If you can't do it then I'll take my $2M to someone that can. I don't want to hear about it again - have them on my lot before Sturgis. Fine, guy goes away and makes a spec and qty 100. Sends back a bunch of pre-bill mumbo jumbo that nobody reads. Couple months later the 3-ways start rolling in and Jack Facebooks a wrecker operation of the likes that nobody has seen before. They got the paint and they got the wheelbase, it is going to be awesome. Facebook some more teasers. Then he opens up the first truck. It's got a 9 liter, but 700HP 500tq RV/Fire rated. It's got a 6 speed torque converter with 15 different economy modes in its software and 5 mode buttons on its shifter. It lane keeps, but only on freshly painted roads to US standard. It's got the right rear end, but it cost him $14K for the aluminum carrier. Its got the right weight ratings, but it has a carbon fiber Z-spring and the smallest steering gear and draglinks a guy has ever seen on a truck. It's got the short fairings and extender tips, but it has an auto adjustable wing at the top that you are supposed set where you need it somewhere deep in the dash menus. So what happened? It all changed on the 2021 model. The overall picture wasn't set up, and the demo truck specs got put in the GEM model and it spit out (errr 'simulated') the functionally same truck but with the balance of lightweighting and technology that GHG 21 wants. GHG was happy and OEM can go on selling all the other stuff they want. Unfortunately it isn't the same truck as the 2020 in the real world. You can still get what you want but it'll take some more back office work to make it happen. Avoid it and you'll get a surprise showing up on your lot. Yes, I exaggerate and I don't even know how it is all going to work out, but I'm betting somewhere in the country in the commercial world the above scenario is going to happen next year. I pick on Jack because we used to always pick on Jack long ago, but we all know he spends a hell of a lot of time keeping up with industry garbage instead of just playing with metal. I assume it is stuff he is dealing with right now. Point being it is all going to change between now and 2027 and we gotta keep up with it or you get the cookie cutter truck they want you to have.... Oh, and related to class 8 OEM (or OEM pass-thru) 4 doors, they fall in the same GHG stuff. On top of that, with OSHA and county health department virus rules it is hard to get 4 guys in a commercial truck together in a lot of places nowadays. Even more, the new logbook rules for this fall heavily gear towards coffin sleeper instead of 4 door or even day cab. So 4-door will be dying in the short term, and may not get the push they need to be set for GHG 21 either. Again, it is volume vs product plan, and they may lose or get put off a few years.
  7. Scrap

    4 door with sleeper

    You guys are looking at the problem all wrong.........😉 😀
  8. Do you know the DEF ratio from the previous trip? Was the DEF tank full when you left? Maybe refill the DEF tank and divide by 4% (or your actual ratio) to get a rough idea of fuel burned without refilling fuel?
  9. Scrap

    adding air lock

    Guess long story short, long as your door sticker says RT40-145, get you: This: https://holsttruck.com/parts/details?part=82858505 And this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-MERITOR-FREIGHTLINER-AXLE-SHAFT-RH-LONG-3202U9485/123828288510?hash=item1cd4bdbbfe:g:BU8AAOSw4e1dIrNL Put em in, plumb it, move your yoke across, and refill. Be sure to pre-fit shaft into difflock collar and side gear first (engage both splines) before dropping it in the housing, then lock it on with air through all the rest of the work till the axle shaft is finally in for good, or you'll be hating life at shaft install time later.
  10. Scrap

    adding air lock

    The thing about it is that you know where your hubs have been for the last 10 years. You know they are tight and true, got good seals, and not been smoked. You know your slacks are adjusted up and will stay adjusted up. You know your tower is straight and not cracked. You know your axle tubes aren't cracked (kinda common on 4 bags - watch out for that). You might have brake bias issues (or improvements?) if you put an RSD braked axle on your old truck. Short of the clearance notch, nothing on the housing changes so it might not be worth introducing a bunch of crashed truck parts that aren't related to your end goal. Most importantly you don't have to play Spiderman under the truck with 450 ft lb U-bolts. That freakin sucks. That all assumes 20K to 20K. If you are wanting to change to a 23K then it all changes. It is a whole different carrier size, slacks, etc, etc and then might be worth a whole rear cutoff. Or if you need to take it all apart to change axle seats from a bad singling it might kinda become worth it. This isn't so true on the RT40's, but on the new 40K Meritors nobody really orders them with rear lockers. They are only built with fwd axle lockers. I'm not saying it is impossible (I don't think), but it is just rare and maybe kind of hard to find used. I have never really quite figured out why that is.
  11. Scrap

    adding air lock

    New longer spline axle shaft for the yoke side, pull carrier, cut out a half moon shape in the axle housing flange for the yoke to fit through. Then either drop in a complete locking carrier or dig into building yours up with the locking spider, etc. It has to come all apart and be re-shimmed to get the new side gears in, so might as well put in new pinion bearings, carrier bearings, R&P, etc at that point....
  12. Yea I think the $ disparity is if there are shavings or gear teeth OEM is going to want to do an overhaul to get all the pockets out, while independent can just do the spots that make sense like the vid. Carries more risk but a lot less $, doesn't open up things that don't need to be opened up, and may last just the same. Same kind of decision you have to make when rollers in the HP fuel pumps wear thru, ceramic plungers grenade, camshaft comes apart, etc, etc. Hope it all works out!
  13. Not saying this is what needs to be done to the truck, but it needs to be checked since Volvo tech heard it rub or chatter or whatever when the compressor was loaded. I don't know how you check a Volvo but I'm sure it's out on the internet somewhere, or the new shop has a way.
  14. Air compressor bull gear......Air compressor bull gear......Air compressor bull gear. Not transmission gear. In the flywheel housing, not in the transmission. Don't lead the new shop astray. The Volvo tech thought he heard trouble, you owe it to the new shop to have a good listen, or pull the compressor and look at the gear, or whatever they need to do to form an opinion for something pre-emptive - I don't know what you do with a Volvo. If metal is missing it is in your engine. Google it. There is info out there.
  15. Just kind of curious, with a whole tearup and a clean sheet build-up, why choose a slower L2 EVSE instead of a Tesla wall charger? Another car? Flexibility for visitors with their own mobile charger? Retired and have all day to charge? 😄
  16. Scrap

    m2 106 air leaks

    Single head air dryers saturate at over 30% duty cycle. Don't go over that. Single cylinder air compressors aren't rated for much more than that. Heat it up and coke it and it becomes an expensive problem. Fan hubs drag and eat their lining when trying to switch on and off between 60-90psi, but newer medium duty is probably a magnetic one. VG turbos in the mid 2000's actuate on air. Wrong pressures and they'll be wigged out and derate, plus their air filter cartridge and expensive actuation valve gets screwed up by saturated dryers. Newer MD is probably an electric one, but you need to check your truck to be sure. Detroit One Box aftertreatments used air for regen for a few years there. Don't know what low air causes there but it can't be good. Shift actuators get stuck in the wrong spots. Manual you can probably get yourself out of. Automated with a range (not 6spd) you'll be stuck right where you are sitting. Allison won't matter. Cab goes flat for a long time and you'll screw up hood corners and cab cowl corners. They'll saw right into each other and sometimes come home not looking too pretty.
  17. Scrap

    m2 106 air leaks

    Parker push connects and Legris 3000's get a max cut angle of 15 deg. SMC KV2's get a max angle of 22 deg. Everything else, well, probably shouldn't be used on a truck. Gotta have that tube support sticking in at the very bottom there or it isn't DOT.
  18. I think you get to teach us Glenn! It's mobile and it is over 60V DC, would it need to fall under automotive high voltage rules? Orange cables (or convelute), servicing disconnect connector, HVIL high voltage interrupt loop (does that apply to an only two item 'loop'?), tagged cut loops, etc, etc. Do ya wear your linesman's gloves or do ya put trashbags over the panels? Buy these parts out of the Leaf too? Be very careful putting that part together! Google the hell out of it! Some automotive stuff to think about: https://ncdoi.com/OSFM/RPD/PT/Documents/Coursework/EV_SafetyTraining/EV EFG Classroom Edition.pdf
  19. Boring. And they get your hands like all dirty and stuff. Put em on with a robot arm! 😉
  20. Polaris connectors? (still needs to be in a box) https://polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/NSi/IT_series.pdf https://polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/NSi/IPLD_series.pdf https://polarisconnectors.com/pdfs/NSi/IPL_series.pdf Snap together some Ilsco PDC blocks in a box? https://commerce.ilsco.com/e2wShoppingCatalog.aspx?parentId=3100012830&parentLink=2100001183:3100012318:3100012371:3100012830 I'm far from an NEC expert, but those are a couple things to noodle over. But if a UL panel is already made, it's kinda worth it fer big power stuff.
  21. Scrap

    Jon Short's Project

    Yea that's why the input shafts were traditionally different sizes. There was only a couple tandem sets that had the same 39 spline front and rear. There was only one application amongst them that had a 39 spline SPL 250 and the slinger had to be reworked to fit the seal of a normal 404 highway axle. So the fwd rear yoke probably wouldn't have worked anyway, don't let it keep ya up at night. 😉 But, newer trucks that are direct drive and downsped are using 42 spline both front and rear now, so yokes would interchange. I don't think we've talked about that here before. Maybe yours is one? So what # did you end up doing for a yoke? What driveline do you have? Looks SPL in the pic? Glyn, Reyco makes a whole kit to change a 79KB into a 79AR without changing frame brackets and lower seats and things. It is made to be quick and easy so dealers can change over a truck for sale. I had the kit # all ready, then realized International makes their own spring susp and doesn't use Reyco. Bummer. But I bet a Navistar MD air would go in the same way. No frame bracket changes, but you'd still have to weld on the track rod tower. Those are no fun.
  22. 440 inches of large car.......... 😱
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