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Everything posted by GlennWest

  1. Just took a walk around the park. 98% of all the newer campers I saw use Solera awnings. Interesting. They were all out too
  2. I was just on their site and max voltage is 14.8. Recommend charging at 14.5. I should be good. It may shorten life some but this not permanent situation unless it works better than I think it will. Intend to be on inverter power later and will still need 12v somehow. I could just use as is without module. Just will never reach full charge. I don't have a lot of ah to start with though.
  3. Think I will give it a shot. Won't be out of a lot if it kills it. Thanks. Been researching batteries this morning. Lots of batteries that people use are just car batteries, cheap. And I hear no mention of then boiling acid out or anything. And their chargers are way more than batteries rated for.
  4. So are you saying I should be good with my 55 amp converter with the lithium module and the 20ah battery? I don't know of any who has one.
  5. Just researching 100ah lithium batteries. Most of them limit charging to 50 amps max. Battle born was the exception but they don't mention it. Some rvs have 90 amp converters in them. Are we not looking at this right?
  6. You can verify this by using a jumper to connect the ends. Furnace will come on.
  7. Think I will can that idea. Just wait and when money coming in again get 2 30 amp Victron Orions. The Iota converter run slides fine. Anything in our Teton. Just no DC power until plugged in. Oh, side note, played with the chinese converter some. It is supplying 12.3 volts until high load and it drops to 10ish. It was good on all but the slideouts. Truly it is not what it rated at. That unit has good reviews too. It was worth a try though. Those 2 Orions $430.00.
  8. Basically the furnace has 12v to it all the time. They break the ground. That is your two ends. Thermostat just needs to connect the circuit.
  9. There is a plugin your thermostat that as no power and makes continuity when it call's for furnace.
  10. I done away with rv acs and went to mini splits. Got a simple Honeywell unit from Lowes. Use it for fursnce.
  11. Read that note too. Sounds like they covering themselves if it goes south.
  12. You can use ohm meter to find out. All furnace use is two wires. Beaks circuit only. Put both end together and furnace runs.
  13. https://www.donrowe.com/iota-iq-lifepo-smart-charge-controller-p/iq-lifepo.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqp-LBhDQARIsAO0a6aJqEsSKWDJUuK59b89QKGMKk46Qq_XWh6Oo1No_ErG-GiVsQTH-CIcaAu4wEALw_wcB. This link to lithium module
  14. My Iota is a 55 amp charger. Will it put out less? I don't know. Have to research this. Well I did and states will put out as much as 55. That I understand as put out just as much as needed up to 55 amp. Module to add to it changes to lithium profile and 14.7 volts. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087JKQGJB/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1 This is the battery considering. Just something for water pump and led lights when needed traveling. And aid in slide outs.
  15. Solera makes a kit for Dometic awnings. By the time I buy a motor and torsion spring I will have the cost in their system Anyone see a benefit in it? They are simpler to fix when broken. Can buy kit form Etrailer for just under $500. Parts to fix mine close to same.
  16. Interesting. Plainly states 20 amps max charging. Has a bms and the way i understand a bms won't allow overcharging.
  17. Also ran awning completely out by hand. No resistance at all. Motor just spins so gear on end must be stripped out. Think torsion spring is broke also. Just ty wraped it up for now.
  18. Well forget that. Motor runs. Awning not.
  19. Ok my switch is 3 wires. It is a failed relay on my controller. It comes in but not out. Hear relay click on in. No click on out. So can you supply an example using relay? No experience on this. But for the dpdt switch I just need one extra wire. Wonder of I can fish one in? If wires are loose I could tie to and pull.
  20. Well won't work with stock converter either. I replaced the controller unit a year or so ago. Of remember correctly like $400.00. Now motor runs fine off a a cordless drill 12v battery. So new unit bad. We never really need the wind sensor as we never leave it out unless we home. Is there a reversing switch I can replace with and just do away with the controller?
  21. Well little more research and that won't work. I would have to use a 100ah battery to handle the 55 amps. Most the small battery will take is 20 amps.
  22. As some know I have issues since putting in the 48/70 amp chinese converter. My stock Iota 55 has ran everything fine by itself. For now I am unhooking the chinese converter and connecting up my Iota. My Iota has a plug on it for charge controller option. Iota makes a lithium one. $18.99. Charges bulk to 14.7 volts. floats and maintains. I am considering getting a 20 ah 12v lithium battery. Out of work right now and money is limited. Sound like a game plan?
  23. Mine is an Amanda. I lock ours with a spring loaded clamp. Actually 2 clamps, one at bottom one at top.
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