GeorgiaHybrid

Can't tell really well with the pics but in the last pic that Chuck posted, is there a sleeve between the two plates where the pin ripped out? If not, that would be my first fix. The second thing I would do is add two vertical gussets on each side between the two plates to box the area in. That section of the hitch receives a lot of force. Some fancy engineers use a lot of words and terms to describe the issue, old farts say "not enough steel, when in doubt, make it stout". That also goes along with the moron theory, "when in doubt, add more on". Both of those failures occurred at the same place on the hitch and is something that needs to be looked at by a competent, structural or mechanical engineer with good failure analysis software. I also agree with Carl that using a good lab and test to failure would be a big help to find a good fix for the issue.

I ordered our Kenworth with the air compressor that is normally used on a large wrecker. The air flow is 37.4 cfm and yes, it will keep up with pretty much any air tool I want to run on it. I also had them add another 8"x41" air tank and charge air glad hands to charge the tanks from shop air. I added two quick connects from the additional tanks using bulkhead fittings that are in the front, drivers side tool box.

Just be thankful he is willing to wear pants...

Two thing to remember from the steel business. 1) When in doubt, make it stout 2) Use the moron theory, if if looks light, add more on.

The ridiculous part is that you can see people driving their car, ALONE, wearing a mask or walking outside with no one within 50 yards of them, wearing a mask. The news has shown people fishing in a BOAT by themselves, wearing a mask. What would you call it?

I run co pilot professional but it is built into the truck dash as an integrated system, not stand alone.

Save the methanol for race cars, the ethanol for drinking and the isopropyl alcohol for hand sanitizer. Everything has a purpose in life.

It would be well worth the diesel fuel and time to go to Herrin Welding but they are in Kilgore, TX, not Livingston. Larry and his son Jake builds what is arguably the best HDT bed out there.

My KW with added factory insulation is pretty quiet but the only way to eliminate road and engine noise in a HDT is to pull over, park the truck and shut off the engine. Your truck will now have zero engine or road noise.

Carl, Aluminum gets tapped a LOT. Never mind brass, cast iron, some copper connections and titanium for the exotic guys.

No, it is a private truck for private use, not commercial use. Our prior M2-112 was a private truck registration.

Sounds like a family having a great time to me

You can register your truck in Florida as a private truck but not as a motorhome if you are using a fifth wheel hitch. Getting insurance is a different issue and you need to do your research for that.

ANY made in the usa set will be better than the junk that is out there. Snap-on tap and die sets and their second tier taps and dies (Bluepoint) are made in the USA and are guaranteed for life. If you are rough on tools. They are a good option. As Steve noted, Butterfield and Union are good ones as well and made here in the USA.

2 bolts per ramp and not an issue. Then again, every Herrin bed I have ever looked at had that arrangement and funny thing, never have heard of a car sliding the ramp off the bed....