Hooking up bigger propane tanks to RV

[tyates007]

I have an opportunity for work that is going to allow me to have a little freedom. With that said we will be selling our home and living in the RV for a few months. Right now through the end of the year. We will not be in the harshest of environments for the new job but it will still be winter. We will be in Tri Cities Washington. 

I have two 100lb propane tanks that I want to plumb in to be able to save on trips to the filling station. I also want to put an automatic change over valve between the 100lb tanks so I can tell when one is empty and just go fill it when needed. So, here is my question. If I plumb in line with the existing tanks with like a Sturgis fitting I would be going through 2 regulators. My dual stage change over currently on the trailer as well as the one plumbed between the two 100lb tanks. Is this a problem?  Am I overthinking this?  Is there an easier way or something I am missing?

I posted here cause y’all are pretty creative 🙂 even though this is not technically HDT related. 

Thanks, Tom

[Big Rick]

You can purchase an extension that will connect to your existing tank plumbing. Check an RV store or a propane dealer

[noteven]

I use an adapter on a propane line into one of the cylinder connections. Other end is connected to an 80 gal “pig” cylinder which the supplier will fill by truck. The cylinders are used for “spares.” The supplier Co-op charges US $.14 per day. 
The delivered cost is approx 1/2 what cylinder fills in town are.

[Darryl&Rita]

We have a glorified "extension hose", with a female tank fitting on one end, and a male fitting to go into the tank on the other. 10' of rubber line in between. Disconnect from 30 lb tank, screw extension onto trailer hose whip, connect to 100 lb or 250 lb tank, use 30 lb for emergency. Got it from the local propane supplier.

[tyates007]

Thx for all the replies. I have an extended stay kit that I have never installed. Been packing it for years. It is basically a Tee that goes between the tank and the regulator. Need to find a longer extension hose and I think I can make that work. I was contemplating putting a changeover valve between the two 100 lb tanks but think this is overkill. If I am thinking through this correctly when the big tank runs out it should switch back over to the 30 lb tank in the trailer. That would let me know it is time for a refill. At least that is my thoughts right now. 

[Lance A Lott]

If you remove the hose that goes to one curent 30lb tank and attach the hose from 1 100 pound tank in its place the switch over valve should work as normal. You can probably just rap the long hose around the 30lb tank if you decide to move the trailer so that you don't have to change over. Mine will slowly empty the full tank if I remove the empty one to go fill it so I attach a spare tank while I am gone to town. Even an empty one will work, but as you have 2 100 tanks you could just attach to the second one.  Funny thing at our local station its $1 more for 100lb fill than for 5 20lb fills but with the inconsistent amount people put in tanks I think I get more in the 100lb fill. Every year I question that decision 100 pound tank seems to way 180 this year last year it was only 175 lol.

[steiny93]

On 9/15/2020 at 11:38 AM, tyates007 said:

 If I plumb in line with the existing tanks with like a Sturgis fitting I would be going through 2 regulators. My dual stage change over currently on the trailer as well as the one plumbed between the two 100lb tanks. Is this a problem?  

Concerning this part (the two regulators).  Having two inline will cause you issue, you only want one otherwise the pressure will be way to low and basically not work.

For something easy, use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Hook-Up-30-Inch-Assembly/dp/B000K287CG then just have one tank off; when you run out you can close the empty tank(s) and open the closed one.  Use lp till you want to fill tanks then disconnect and fill.

That is how we handle this in our ice houses

[rpsinc]

If you want to maximize the efficiency of your LP usage, dont use the RV furnace and change over to a catalytic heater.  No fan and over 95% efficient as opposed to ~35% efficient for the RV furnace.  That can equate to using 3X more LP to do the same heating.

And with 100# cylinders, that can help that amount to last awhile.

[tyates007]

Thank you for all the replies and help. 

[Cotreker]

Want to really cut your propane cost switch over to the Diesel Cab heaters I installed one in my RV basement last year and it supplied tons of heat.  My set up was less than $100 and it is one of the Chinese makes.  Mine runs off a 10 liter  (3 gal) fuel cell and runs all weekend.  Want to learn more check out Facebook for the diesel cab heater group.  Some guys buy 2 of them to have spare parts, but these parts are now available on Amazon as is the heater.

[Nwcid]

I know you already have the 100lb tanks, but you might check with the local propane supplier.  Often times they rent 100 gallon (not lb) tanks and put them on a keep filled cycle.  I am not sure what the cost would be, but it would greatly reduce your need to mess with the tanks ever few days. 

 

[Phil D]

23 minutes ago, Nwcid said:

I know you already have the 100lb tanks, but you might check with the local propane supplier.  Often times they rent 100 gallon (not lb) tanks and put them on a keep filled cycle.  I am not sure what the cost would be, but it would greatly reduce your need to mess with the tanks ever few days. 

In my experience, as long as you're having them filled on a regular (in-season) basis, most providers do not charge demurrage on the tank, and generally price the propane that goes into it at a reasonable, per gallon price.  It's a much better deal, not to mention more convenient, than trying to keep 40# or 100# tanks full when this service is available.

[clark261]

The first step is to locate and purchase a Propane-T, which is a pipe fixture that will allow you to connect your RV’s onboard propane regulator to an external propane tank. Once you have purchased this part, you just need to screw this into your regulator port.

The other port of the Propane-T is where you can connect the heavy-duty rubber hose that will connect to the propane tank. You can just directly connect the rubber hose and use a small belt clamp to secure it in place or you can get a quick connect kit so it will be easier to install and remove when needed.

[Henrry07]

Hooking up an external propane tank to your RV starts with looking for your motorhome’s permanent propane cylinder. Most RVs have tanks connected to various appliances. The next step involves installing a propane kit to connect a cylinder to your RV tank if your camper or trailer doesn’t have one. Then connect a hose between the tank and the propane adapter. The last step in the RV external propane connection is joining your fuel-powered appliance to the correct port.

Edited December 1, 2022 by Henrry07

[Dutch_12078]

The simplest setup would likely be to just replace the existing cylinder hoses from your auto change-over with longer ones and connect your two 100 lb cylinders in place of the smaller cylinders. Switching back would be as easy as moving the hoses back to the smaller cylinders. 

[GlennWest]

I was working in Denver area, Actually staying in Golden. It was winter time. The park provided a 100 pound tank for us. They filled it too. But I know most all propane suppliers will bring you a tank and keep it filled. 

[Ray,IN]

This might prove useful: LP Serviceman's Handbook