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About steiny93

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  1. We also did a portable winch which mounted in a stake pocket of the deck (enabled us to winch a smart car / quads / side by side on from the side vs having to drive them up). I'm pretty sure it saved a fair amount of machine and bodily injury from happening. 😃
  2. mine was a similar wheelbase, I ended up with a pair of cameras; one on the hitch and a second on the back of the cab so I could watch whatever was riding on the deck, worked out great
  3. Compressing the suspension to the point of no movement is not optimal; attaching to an un-sprung suspension component (tire with nets; direct to axle; etc) will significantly lessen the stress on the vehicle. Keep in mind, if the strapping to hold the vehicle is going through the suspension (compressing), during the timeframe of holding force need (accident as an example), all of those lbs of force are going through both the strapping and the suspension. If their is a reason movement of the suspension shouldn't occur (clearance / tow vehicle movement / ect). Then go ahead and add additional (and different) strapping to compress the suspension; but just to compress the suspension to a tolerable level; don't fully compress. Effectively the best of both worlds. But, piles of folks crush suspensions down to the bump stops and don't worry about it. On our atvs\utvs I strap direct to the frames (sprung) as they are inside enclosed trailers and we can't have them moving around. I'm not to worried about those suspensions; I just crank those down. The vehicles get either tire nets or direct to axle attach; both being un-sprung.
  4. steiny93

    Onboard air compressor

    Onboard air in stock trim is enough to air up tires / blow off dust / etc. Not really enough volume for air tools (mine didn't have enough to run a large impact to break wheel lugs loose for example). Like everything you can absolutely change these; getting large enough to run real air tools will not be cheap.
  5. Concerning this part (the two regulators). Having two inline will cause you issue, you only want one otherwise the pressure will be way to low and basically not work. For something easy, use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Hook-Up-30-Inch-Assembly/dp/B000K287CG then just have one tank off; when you run out you can close the empty tank(s) and open the closed one. Use lp till you want to fill tanks then disconnect and fill. That is how we handle this in our ice houses
  6. steiny93

    HDT with HD Trailer

    The cost of doing something for the first time once is expensive vs the cost of doing something over and over again. Concerning the labor costs; even if someone does 100% of the work themselves there is a cost to their time (lost hours to their real job, higher costs incurred elsewhere, etc). Go look at folks who build their own ice houses vs. purchasing them. Over and over again the same pattern, end result is either more money or lower quality (time duration is always insanely long).
  7. steiny93

    HDT with HD Trailer

    Custom and better for less then mass produced isn't likely to happen.
  8. steiny93

    HDT add ons

    Tanks Depending upon the config (singled / tandem / long / short / weedeater or not) you will likely have room to get additional tanks under the deck of the hdt. Being singled long as example made a ton of space under the deck. An APU The truck ones are loud; significantly louder then any of the quite inverter gensets or onan's which are built into an rv. There are some nice configs where folks have added a smaller inverter genset to a truck for us when on its own. We thought we'd need a genset on the truck; but ended up not really needing one. The truck could sit for weeks without having issues with engine startup and the onboard heat/air was plenty to keep the cab comfortable. HDT Batteries Don't mess with them; you always want a bunch of good power for start up. Add capacity to the rv and save yourself a pile of pain. My hdt had 4 group 31's I believe; pretty standard setup. Vehicle on the deck I set mine up to haul a smartcar or quads (our jeep didn't fit). We used it to haul a side by side and a pair of quads; worked very well. The smartcar is common because it'll fit sideways on the deck. When you go to a jeep (or pretty much any other vehicle) they need to go length ways which drives the deck length topic. The 'adds' we really liked. All new leather interior; totally changes the experience. Audio / visual in the truck, swapped out the head unit all the speakers and added a panel for watching videos and multiple cameras (backup / on deck / back of 5th). Winches on the deck for loading the sxs and quads; completely removed the stress of getting them up on the deck. Absolutely get an auto shift; having the ability to have others drive the hdt is a big plus. Big fuel tanks (we could get just over 300 gallons on board) speeds up the trips and removes the pain of getting into tight fuel stops.
  9. steiny93

    Off road and winter

    the bummer about a winch is that you tend to not have an attach point where you need one Concerning the sizing. I run 12k winches on the jeeps; we've been in many situations where that isn't enough.
  10. steiny93

    Off road and winter

    From an expectation perspective: HDT's are horrible off road; think worse then a two wheel drive pickup. Aggressive tires, chains and a locker will help; but with the heavy front end and no weight in the rear it's a problem. My opinion: If you need to use 4x4 currently you will be stuck with an HDT in the same conditions. The real ick being getting an HDT unstuck is significantly more work then getting a pickup unstuck.
  11. All the engines which use DEF to manage emissions will get unhappy if they are not allowed to complete a regen cycle. By this I mean none of the current tech has the notion of a partial regen. Without a partial regen you can get into a state where the duration of the trip is short enough to either not enable a regen to complete or not enable a regen to start; both of which will have an end result of a "too full" SCR which then will cause a warning followed by a limp condition. I'm living this dream right now; one of our daily drivers is an ecodiesel; another is a cummins. Typical commute is now 3 miles (was 18 miles). Bot get into a state where they need to regen and you get a warning on the dash. If you follow the instructions it'll regen and all is well. If you let it go long enough you get a limp to dealer experience. HDTs are further from DMax's / Cummins / EcoDiesels in regards to being optimized for regen during a short daily commute :). If you only have short drive cycles you will get to into a state where your choice will be drive longer or go to limp. I don't know how the HDT will message this scenario; you may want to check on that.
  12. steiny93

    Nine seat in HDT

    If 72" isn't long enough you'll need to go the custom route; hence the toter recommendation above (looking to find a toter that someone extended already then put the 2 rows of seats into it). From the factory; I don't know of any ready to roll options.
  13. BF AT KO2 is the go-to; we put 33's under the wrangler that we pulled behind the motorhome and they were less noisy then the soft top We use the same tire on the rigs we drag ice houses around the lake with before we need tracks; we are very happy with their traction and tread life on 1/2 ton trucks and lighter. On the heavy stuff (3/4 ton plus) the tread life is pretty poor.
  14. for the parking spots: start making reservations as soon as you can for getting on the road: do a full systems check, like maybe stay in it a night and use everything before you leave, new rv's are notorious for having issues right away and being close to the dealer would be nice
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