Professional Soldering

[SuiteSuccess]

Been watching some videos on electronics soldering and as usual been doing it wrong for few years (>60).  Never “tinned” the tip.  Rarely cleaned the tip.  Used Rosen core solder but never fluxed before.  Sometimes carried solder on tip of gun rather than heating piece to be soldered from opposite side.  Now that I’m gonna be a “pro” what are your recommendations for a good setup “iron, tip cleaner, solder sizes, flux, dielectric grease etc.”?  Have several projects.  Have a couple of Weller pencil irons and a hand held.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Carl, It doesn't matter if you've soldering wrong all these years, as long as you got the doctoring right!  I've always used Weller irons and handhelds mostly with their name supplies.

For dielectric grease, I bought a tube of CRC brand.  has a trigger type plunger for easy application and making a mess.

[solo318]

the only thing I've ever managed to get solder to stick to is my fingers.

 

[JPL]

Heat is like electricity you don't see it till you feel it!   Pat

 

The Old Sailor

[Sehc]

Soldering electronics I use a weller 100 watt. The most critical is not over heating the component.

[RandyA]

Carl, I just use a water dampened sponge to clean off my soldering iron tip. I also keep a bronze scouring pad close by to scrub a dirty tip.  Tips burn and pit so occasional resurfacing with 320 to 400 grip sandpaper is needed then re-tin the tip before use.  Do not leave a "dirty" iron tip hot while waiting as it will burn.  Clean your tip on a wet sponge after completing your joint.  Heating a joint so solder melts and flows in is by the book, but I like to have a little solder on my iron tip to rapidly transfer heat.  Most all solder now is lead free.  Still, some 60/40 out there that I prefer.  Different gauges of solder for small to larger components. Must choose a gauge appropriate for the size of the material.  Size of solder station tip is important too so as to have the right amount of heat for a component.   I have several temperature controlled soldering stations, one with hot air which is nice for heat shrink tubing or removing parts from a circuit board.  Chinese temp controlled solder stations are OK but soldering iron cord is usually too short.   The main concern is to have a bright shiny solder joint when cooled.  A grey joint is called a "cold solder joint" and must be reheated.  NEVER use an acid core solder on electrical connections.  Practice makes perfect.  You are doing the right thing.

[Nuke-E]

Randy is on the mark.  You don't want a fixed-wattage setup, you want temperature control.  The tips will stay cleaner longer, and you get the part you're soldering hot enough much faster, without gradually heating the whole board.

Here's what I use (well, a slightly older version of the same model): https://amzn.to/2RDd2U5

[Imurphy907]

My soldering set up uses some of the following equipment

https://www.weller-tools.com/professional/USA/us/Professional/Product+lines/WT+Line/Soldering+stations+and+sets/WT1011HN

With 3 different tips. I solder a wide variety of things from circuit board level components to 4" copper pipe on refrigeration equipment.

https://www.grainger.com/product/3W887?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!281741803417!!!g!447640020612!&ef_id=WvFAYwAAAGtoVxAl:20181010151145:s&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxvbdBRC0ARIsAKmec9aS7sSzBNIJrOeWjZNn5OsVKsZKWCn6g60EOWBbwOtnmweL0WrE9rAaAhJoEALw_wcB

A variety of tweezers two desktop work vises and a fly tieing station for holding small parts. lighted magnifier on a desk mount. just about every size of solder wire. kind of hard to describe it all.

[NeverEasy]

Talk to Deb when we get to the National Rally.  She is a certified micro-miniture repair tech.  She does everything critical for me. She uses and older version of one of these:  https://gokimco.com/pace-8007-04500-st50-esd-safe-digital-intelliheat-soldering-station-with-td-100-iron.html?gdffi=a2b2595eeb2e44a8bc2e332d298712bc&gdfms=5D6E5C9455964B2F9E35CA319330B16A&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvfrE7ZT83QIVEdNkCh1d7w0eEAQYAiABEgJRT_D_BwE

[SuiteSuccess]

Wow, thanks folks.  Some interesting choices.  

Chet, 

Not going to make the National this year.  We had to swing by North Texas for awhile due to a major health problem with my older brother.  Just got back to Tennessee last week.

[NeverEasy]

Sorry to hear that , Carl.  We hope to see you in April.

We are in Branson, MO now and will pack up and head to Hutch this A.M.

Chet

[Pete Kildow]

4 hours ago, NeverEasy said:

Sorry to hear that , Carl.  We hope to see you in April.

We are in Branson, MO now and will pack up and head to Hutch this A.M.

Chet

Have the leaves started changing at all around Branson? Were heading that way Tuesday .

[jkennell]

A soldering station is far higher performance than the pencil irons.  I've used basic Weller WES-55 solder stations in my business for almost 20 years now--lots of daily use--and only replaced a few of the hand pencils in that time (wires eventually break after that much constant movement).   

Don't use lead-free solder unless you are an expert....I've been soldering for years and I still have trouble making a good joint with lead-free.   Hate the stuff.  60/40 is much easier to use and more durable.  

[SuiteSuccess]

Thanks everyone for the input.  Isn’t it amazing how we think we know how to do something and find out after decades we’ve been doing it all wrong?  Now don’t think I’ll ask my wife what I’ve been doing wrong for 45 years.  And NO!....don’t go there, I was keeping it clean.

[NeverEasy]

On 10/11/2018 at 12:29 PM, Pete Kildow said:

Have the leaves started changing at all around Branson?

On 10/11/2018 at 12:29 PM, Pete Kildow said:

 

Not that we noticed. 

[Pete Kildow]

16 hours ago, NeverEasy said:

Not that we noticed. 

Thanks

[phoenix2013]

Carl, now that you "mastered" the technique the subject shifts to equipment. Been buying soldering irons, soldering and de-soldering equipment, micro-soldering equipment, massive soldering equipment, etc, etc., since 1960s. For myself and for the electronic manufacturing departments in companies I ran. I thought I've seen everything until I spotted this.

I never bought garbage stuff for myself or my employees, but spending $250 bucks on a soldering station seemed bordering on insanity. But kept reading the specs and reviews and convinced myself, "what the hell it's only a couple of Jackalopees". Besides Jackalopee soldering was a pain in the donkey/horse, since I had to  use three different irons.

Precision iron to solder the surface mount resistors and LEDs, heavier iron to solder most of the tabs and relay sockets and a massive iron to solder tabs into the ground plane and heavy power traces (2 ounce copper and connected on both sides).

Spent $250 bucks (what the hell it's only two Jackalopees) and put it to work.                  Hallelujah!!!             I went to the soldering haven, but St. Peter sent me back down to earth to build more Jackalopees. That station and that (actually micro-iron) does everything!!!!

Now there are few provisos: I set station to its highest temperature (830 degrees). I have a very good technique and know when the joint is good and it's time to remove the heat. The soldering tip I use (Hakko makes dozens of different types of tips) is T15-DL32. It's a good compromise tip for precision  work (SMD parts) and for laying some serious heat (ground plane soldering). I use lead free solder with water soluble rosin, pretty much an industry standard and yes you clean it in a dishwasher. No clean solder is OK, but it's for amateurs who don't care how the product looks after soldering.

I've had the station couple of years now and built couple of hundred Jackalopees with the same (one and only) soldering tip (actually an element with a heat sensor built-in). Just noticed that the tip coating wore through in a corner (it's still usable) so I ordered another ($15 bucks). I would have been through whole bunch of tips on any other iron.

Check out Hakko website, you'll be amazed at the stuff they produce, be aware of the Hakko knockoffs (for a $100 bucks). The crooks copied the thing perfectly so you can't tell from the outside, but the internal electronics is different since they couldn't figure out the internal proprietary stuff, the circuit board is different that's how the frauds are spotted. So buy the originals (and the original tips) from authorized distributors only.

[Sehc]

I solder one or two electrical items per year. I agree with 60/40 solder for ease of use. My 100 watt Weller trigger gun is more than I need to spot solder a few wires. 

[Parrformance]

https://www.hakkousa.com/products/soldering/hakko-fx-951-soldering-station.html

[Imurphy907]

 

On 10/29/2018 at 9:45 PM, phoenix2013 said:

Carl, now that you "mastered" the technique the subject shifts to equipment. Been buying soldering irons, soldering and de-soldering equipment, micro-soldering equipment, massive soldering equipment, etc, etc., since 1960s. For myself and for the electronic manufacturing departments in companies I ran. I thought I've seen everything until I spotted this.

I never bought garbage stuff for myself or my employees, but spending $250 bucks on a soldering station seemed bordering on insanity. But kept reading the specs and reviews and convinced myself, "what the hell it's only a couple of Jackalopees". Besides Jackalopee soldering was a pain in the donkey/horse, since I had to  use three different irons.

Precision iron to solder the surface mount resistors and LEDs, heavier iron to solder most of the tabs and relay sockets and a massive iron to solder tabs into the ground plane and heavy power traces (2 ounce copper and connected on both sides).

Spent $250 bucks (what the hell it's only two Jackalopees) and put it to work.                  Hallelujah!!!             I went to the soldering haven, but St. Peter sent me back down to earth to build more Jackalopees. That station and that (actually micro-iron) does everything!!!!

Now there are few provisos: I set station to its highest temperature (830 degrees). I have a very good technique and know when the joint is good and it's time to remove the heat. The soldering tip I use (Hakko makes dozens of different types of tips) is T15-DL32. It's a good compromise tip for precision  work (SMD parts) and for laying some serious heat (ground plane soldering). I use lead free solder with water soluble rosin, pretty much an industry standard and yes you clean it in a dishwasher. No clean solder is OK, but it's for amateurs who don't care how the product looks after soldering.

I've had the station couple of years now and built couple of hundred Jackalopees with the same (one and only) soldering tip (actually an element with a heat sensor built-in). Just noticed that the tip coating wore through in a corner (it's still usable) so I ordered another ($15 bucks). I would have been through whole bunch of tips on any other iron.

Check out Hakko website, you'll be amazed at the stuff they produce, be aware of the Hakko knockoffs (for a $100 bucks). The crooks copied the thing perfectly so you can't tell from the outside, but the internal electronics is different since they couldn't figure out the internal proprietary stuff, the circuit board is different that's how the frauds are spotted. So buy the originals (and the original tips) from authorized distributors only.

I am surprised to hear you solder these by hand. assumed you floated them or had them fully built out by a PCB mfg.

[phoenix2013]

1 hour ago, Imurphy907 said:

 

I am surprised to hear you solder these by hand. assumed you floated them or had them fully built out by a PCB mfg.

Quantities are too small for assembly houses. In 60s, 70s, and even 80's you could find assembly houses in any city or even neighborhood.  Between environmentalists and cheap labor all that stuff is done oversees, I buy the boards in Florida but guess where they are made, China or Taiwan and the distributor was so happy to announce that these were made in Taiwan (no tariffs).

I attend Florida trade shows (Orlando, Miami) and these are pitiful compared to  New England ones where you needed sometimes two days to go through them. They do make PCBs in this country but most of it is oriented towards high end stuff, multi layer, inner vias, micro circuitry,  military, satellite, medical etc. And even these houses have "international partners" meaning they make the cheap stuff oversees.

Also the assembly houses that can wavesolder don't want to see 15-20 per month, just to set up costs  more than the job is worth. I don't mind, I'm very good at this stuff and can put out a bunch at a time while watching television or listening to good jazz.

[Moresmoke]

Does this mean I am not a professional?

Some days you need a bigger soldering iron, um, copper.

[GeorgiaHybrid]

1 hour ago, Moresmoke said:

Does this mean I am not a professional?

Some days you need a bigger soldering iron, um, copper.

You must be soldering those small wires, you know, 2/0 or 4/0 sized stuff.

[Sehc]

I have a big collection of those, and the gas oven to heat them. They were used in the tin smith trades. I used a 300 watt electric version of one for leaded window building/repair.