Moresmoke

If you are designing and want to avoid the LP system totally, you could also use a couple of residential kick space heaters. We have a couple in our S&B kitchen as there was no place to put baseboard heaters. Other than the occasional cleaning, they run and work.

Also, the suspension makes a big difference on uneven terrain. My opinion, and many will disagree, the KW 8 bag suspension is not that great. The Volvo/Hendrickson Z bar air ride is actually half decent at articulation. The gold standard in off road performance is a walking beam/ Mack camelback design, but they come at a cost of ride quality. Neway used to build an air ride that could keep up with a walking beam, but it was heavy and maintenance intensive.

Some of the 6x2s will automatically bias the weight on the axles when wheel slip is detected. I believe the Volvo suspension will go as high as 80% on the powered axle.

Do you have any blank spaces in the dash cluster? Might be able to add the factory gauges. Another option would be a Scan Gauge whatever they call the heavy duty version. I know for certain that engine has a manifold pressure sensor, and would think it has exhaust temp also as it is an EGR engine.

The factory batteries made it 6 years in mine, but the truck had been sitting for 2 when I bought it. Currently at 5 on the replacements. I do have a NOCO maintainer installed. Don’t generally use it in the summer but keep the maintainer plugged in for the 8 month off season.

Might want to check if you have power and ground at the valve before you get too dirty.

The two messages are related. You can plug your fault code into Google and get a fairly decent description. The Volvo link is a telematics module. Most likely not needed for HDT use. You will likely need programming done by a dealer to remove it.

Biggest consideration is how are you going to get the Harley up there? I carry a bike and Jeep. I run the bike up the ramps onto the bed, but it is a little bit interesting. And that is a small adventure bike, not a big cruiser. Other than the weird looks in the cg, no problems whatsoever pulling a TT.

WIX says 24311 & 24312, the second being your sleeper filter.

I go back and forth between TSD card and Mudflap app. TSD is usually a few cents cheaper at overlap stations, but they don’t have all the same coverage. Mudflap is free use the app on your phone, links to a credit card, no application process. I check both and pick whatever makes the most sense for price and location.

My Mom liked to recount the story from one of her trips to visit Dad when they were courting. Mom had hitched a ride from University with one of my Grandfather’s drivers, in a GMC cracker box. Along the way the throttle return spring gave up. Mom being a resourceful farm girl, grabbed a piece of yarn from her knitting project, tied it to the accelerator pedal and played the part of the spring for the rest of the trip.

Already rising here. But then as far as freight rates have fallen into the dumpster I question just how high diesel will go.

The pipe tee will work. The key to doing it is to have the two lines from the tanks the same length and as close to the same runs as possible. Had an old Freightliner that ran like that for years. That had low flow return so just sent the return to one tank.

My typical tool kit includes 12 pt regular depth chrome sockets for hand use and 6 pt deep impact sockets. That combination gets most done what i need.

Start truck, let air pressure build up. Turn truck off, key back on but do not start. Push and hold the brake pedal applying 80 psi on the application pressure gauge. After 30 seconds, the tank air pressure should not drop noticeably from the initial drop when you pushed the brake pedal. Also, any truck that was factory built as a tractor since the early ‘90s had a brake proportioning valve. This valve reduced the pressure to the rear wheels to help reduce the chance of skidding when bobtail. The red knob is the trigger for the proportioning valve.

Make sure you read the fine print on the Howes bottle. It takes twice the standard label rate to keep the fuel from gelling in real cold temperatures.

There is one big hill between Bozeman and Livingston, MT. East of that it is mostly flat. Blowing snow is the biggest danger out in the open of WY and SD. There is possibility of snow into April, but as it warms up the blowing usually isn’t as bad. If you have been off the interstate in PA/WV you have seen worse hills than you will find in that part of the west. As long as you are not in a rush you can always wait the weather out.

Even learning how to do a pre trip inspection would be worth quite a bit if you don’t have any heavy truck background. Not knowing where the OP is, it may be worth asking around to a couple training providers. Some may offer different courses depending on their regular clientele.

The Ez pass toll roads can determine the vehicle type from their sensors. You do register the plate number and type of vehicle to the transponder, but you can have multiple vehicles on one transponder. The system automatically determines whether you have a trailer and how many axles it is.

I have an ez pass from the state of NH. Mounted top center in the Volvo on Velcro. Pull it out and put it in the Jeep at destinations as needed. Also take it with me when renting a car and just throw it on the dash. Only time I have been mis charged, they skipped a trailer axle. I didn’t correct them. If you go with an ezpass and don’t live in a sponsoring state, shop around some are easier to deal with than others. I went with NH as they were reasonable on costs and the in-laws live there.

I’d be more concerned about the roof than the hood. I’m pretty sure my 300lb self could dance a jig on the hood and not do anymore damage than scratch the paint.

You can also use a credit card with Mudflap, so you still have some protection. I have accounts with both TSD and Mudflap. About doubles my fuel buying options, but you want to check both for the best price.

Are you guys hearing the engine when it uses pilot injection? Makes a rough running sound which I guess could be interpreted as grinding. Usually happens when the engine is below normal temp and at low rpm. More noticeable if torque demand increases. I don t have experience with many engine brands to know which ones do it, but quite common on the newer engines. My D11 Volvo does it. Basically a small amount of fuel is injected before tdc creating an effect similar to spark knock. This serves to preheat the cylinder and affect the emissions.

Discount hydraulic hose They have a few sizes in both PTC and sleeve type compression. Myself I would use the sleeve type and never worry about a leak again.

I know the instructions for red loctite say heat is required for removal. In a bolt situation, I have never had one not come apart with an impact wrench. The only loctite application I have ever had to heat was a sleeve situation that had a very large surface area.