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phoenix2013

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  1. I took Vern's advice and it works if you click on the links, but it's mickey mouse compared to the way it worked for years.
  2. What's going on with the photo links? https://i.imgur.com/lQiAkcRl.jpg
  3. Installation options. https://i.imgur.com/68J2a39l.jpg https://i.imgur.com/TkYuXWLl.jpg Another option on an ET hitch the front panel of the hitch https://i.imgur.com/i0YWoPTl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/By2RKQ6l.jpg Now for a tip for "neat wiring". https://i.imgur.com/QkjpdQ6l.jpg On the truck side crimp first the white wire than the black wire, two bottom tabs. On the trailer side crimp the white wire first (bottom tab) and the black wire (top tab). Where to cut each wire? Grab each wire with you fingers, form a small loop and bring it to its designated ta
  4. phoenix2013

    My Bed design

    The lateral forces on any hitch are enormous on any hitch in any turn and at 90 degrees or close to it they become 100% of what you see in straight pulling. Your concern about side plates being able to handle it is spot on. Since you know what the "squat down" of the pucks is with your pin weight, I would suggest that you "overmount" the hitch and pinbox in height so that things end up at 47 inches when hooked up. Level pulling is a must.
  5. Very pretty, removable so the ET access is possible, how's the pin clearance with the head aired up?
  6. I don't remember exact model (one of Smittybilt units), I discussed it with customer, he bought it, I measured it and turned it into a CAD drawing. I don't think it was the biggest one they make, Smart weighs 2,000 pounds and you are not lifting it, you are rolling it up the ramp, 4,000-6,000 pounds is way more that what you need. Maybe you can figure it out from the dimensions on the drawings. It had a manual control with an umbilical which plugged into that square controller attached to the left side of the winch.
  7. One of the things that I spotted was your transition from the wider deck to the narrower cab skirts, bravo, amazing what a little 45 degree corner does. I cut the skirt radius straight up to make it work. You can see here how the angled cabinet corners blend with the skirts cut straight up. By the way what will you be storing in those vertical tanks? I extended the outer skins on all four storage units towards the tires and radiused these to form the tire skirts. Finished conversion. Husband steers the smart, wife operates the winch
  8. Blaine, love that ingenuity, you have a seriously 3D mind. That cardboard trick brought some memories. I had the truck designed in CAD right down to 1/1000th of an inch. We started measuring the truck with the frame on it before we torched some steel for the skirts and toolboxes. "What the hell" something is seriously off. Time for the old cardboard trick. Turned out that the truck had to be in an accident and seriously tweaked. There was almost an inch difference front to back between the left side and the right side. Love the fact that you are "exposing" your de
  9. Quick way to fix it is to fill the holes with solder top and bottom.
  10. This is truly weird, simplest imaginable circuit on a printed circuit board. On the truck side on top, tab is soldered into the RUNNING LIGHTS etch. Etch needs to go to the bottom side of the board to weave through the relays circuitry. This is accomplished through two feedthroughs to carry the current to the bottom. In PCB technology these are massive each one capable to carry several amps of power (for 10 gauge wire), I doubled it just for good measure and redundancy. Feedthroughs emerge on the bottom side etch and continue to the trailer RUNNING LIGHTS tab. The board de
  11. As I mentioned in another post, "regardless how good the thing is, you think, it can be improved". During our "collaboration" after the sad event I discussed with Dave the shaft material I was utilizing in the ETs, he suggested another. We discussed the fact that in Gen 1s, prior to re-engineering the saddles and supporting the shafts differently, the upper shaft would shatter internally in the tube under certain conditions. Comparing my material to his suggestion, mine was superior, hard as hell with nitrided coating 80 times better then chrome coating. What Dave suggested was softer chrome
  12. Bob, found the generator mounting pictures in the archives. It was a pretty hairy project. Big sucker, diesel powered, don't remember if it was a remote start, but it had it's own battery. We needed to figure out opening in the box for it have enough CFM of air to run properly, exhaust routing was funky too to keep it away from stuff. It was a heavy SOB but it needed to come out for the most routine servicing (like changing filters - NO CAN DO THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR). So we installed small 3 inch C channels, mounted the gen on a plate and put wheels to ride in the c-channels. Note in
  13. How big a generator? I designed an built a generator box for a diesel powered one (fed from the truck tank) a while back, might have some pictures of it someplace. Yes, airflow, the plumbing and being able to roll it out for servicing, was a PITA.
  14. Corroded copper wire strands in the crimp. Again, back to the "quality" of parts used by the RV industry (as discussed on the other thread). I had a chance to "rewire things" connected with RV 7 wire cable after few years on the road. I was surprised at how black and oxidized the individual strands were when stripped anew on an older cable. Requiring sandpaper routine before crimping or clamping.
  15. The problem with the RV cable is the fact that it's an "RV cable". In the RV industry anything that can be made for two bucks they find a way to make it for a buck, then sell it through Lippert who finds a way to make it for fifty cents. The seven conductor cable is not molded it's sheathed. The advantages, besides cheaper, is that it's more flexible than molded, it works OK and it looks better than bunch of wires wrapped around with electrical tape to form a bundle. In this application, even though the four cordgrips are sealable (by tightening the external nuts), moisture can
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