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JPL

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I have a 5000 lb 32000 gross weight Trailer Saver Air ride Hitch and I can't get it to close. I think I have broken a pin or some kind of linkage. I came loose and backed into it and now can't get it to lock in. Has anybody been into the hitch before? What does it take to rebuild it? HELP!

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Hi Guys,

I don't think Pat changed anything on his trailer. He now has a problem with hooking up. That is how I am reading the thread. I think you can rebuild the head but I have not done that. 

Pat, have you called Trailer Saver tech line for any advice ? Just a thought.

Al

2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger "
  Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood "
    2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog "
 

 

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You can call Dave @ TrailerSaver (if he is still there)   270-756-0284.

The most common problem hooding up and locking that jaw is that the hitch height might have been moved just an 1/8 of an inch.

If you say that you slipped out, then you need to reset the release arm so that the jaws will lock.  If the jaws are hung up on the lower part (collar) of the pin, or the upper part, raise or lower the trailer to try again from the start.

I know it sounds very obvious, but sometimes it happens and we need to start over as if you were backing into the pin for the first time.

Rocky & Sheri Rhoades
'01 Volvo 770
2016 DRV Mobile Suites, Houston
HERO Makers Ministry

 

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Pat,

Bring it over here.  We can compare it to mine and fix it.  I also have another trailer saver with a good hitch on the ground.

Chet

Chet & Deb
'01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart
'19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel
2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed
Retired CWO4, USN and federal service
Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist

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I am sure you already know this but there is a position where the handle will lock in the open position.  I’ve never been able to get lock there consistently when I wanted it to.  If this is what has happened just pull the safety catch to release.

 

Nigel

2006 Volvo VNL 430, 2006 smart cabrio cdi, 2000 Triple E Topaz 30'

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Thanks for all of the help. I'll call the H/L tomorrow. As I was pulling out the pin came loose from the hitch. I had not locked it in. then when I tried to get it back in it wouldn't lock. I even backed off and tried it again. Still no luck. Chet (NeverEasy) Has a hitch so Monday we will look at this thing real Hard! I'll look at it again in the morning. I will also call the hot line. Again Thanks everybody for ideas and info. Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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As others have suggested, make sure the jaws are not hitting the top  or bottom collar of the pin. Also make sure the spring loaded pin is not holding the locking block in the retracted position. it is possible that excessive side to side pressure on the jaws and pin  could keep the jaws from allowing the locking block from going into place between the front horns of the jaws,  [Front is the end of the truck where the radiator is].  Not trying to be a smart a$$ but rather to lend clarity as to front and rear of hitch and jaws. A broken lock block spring could prevent the lock block from being pushed back beteen the front horns of the jaws.  If that were the case, then manually moving the release handle rearward while the pin is properly aligned in the hitch would push the lock block into the proper position. If the spring is broken or very weak then you would need to place a block or something in front of the locking block to prevent it from sliding forward and allowing the jaws to open when you don't want them to. The Binkley heads and jaws are robust but the jaws, pin and locking block must  be in alignment with each other before the jaws can lock around the pin and be held closed by the lock block.,  I hope this helps.     Charlie

Don't ever tell a soldier that he doesn't understand the cost of war.

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After twelve years of use I bought a new hitch head from T/S for $500 this summer. Fixed all the problems I was having.

2007 Volvo 780 Ultrashift Trailersaver Hitch
2017 Momentum 397th
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2 Honda 400EX's
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My TS did the opposite as yours.  After being hooked up for a couple of days I couldn't get the jaws to release.  After much & I mean much persuasion, we were able to get them open.  It then required even more work (heat & hammer) to remove the jaw pins.  Had to take it to a fabrication shop.  Not sure how he did it, I couldn't.  Cleaned & never seized the pins, replaced the springs & all is good.

Todd E.

“…nothing so liberalizes a man and expands the kindly instincts that nature put in him as travel and contact with many kinds of people.” – Mark Twain

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On our old TrailerSave, year 2000 vintage, when it starts to have issues locking, it's time for a cleaning.  I use grease on the jaws and pins, and lithium grease on the block and handle assembly.  After a while, the build-up of road crud and dirt makes it hard to operate.  What I do is back the truck into a car wash bay, use the engine degreaser foam/spray from the carwash, then power wash the hitch.  Let it dry and apply a new coat of grease.  I do this about every 6 months.  

When I back into the pin to hook up, if the jaws don't close and lock on the first little push,  it's time for a cleaning.  

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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I called the number for Dave but it has been disconnected. I checked the # and it was as listed. I will clean it. I know it hasn't been cleaned in 7 years. Does anybody have a good # for T/S? I'll be checking more closely with Chet(NeverEasy) Monday. Hope the issue is simple. I'm doing a boat show all weekend so can't do much till Monday.  Getting a new head sounds like a good idea. Thanks again for all comments and ideas.    Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

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As above, spray it with a good penetrating oil.  If you have access to it, Pene-Phite works great, as it leaves dry graphite behind, but Kroil, PB Blaster, or any number of commercial fluids will work. You might get lucky and not need a new head.  Just don't waste your time with WD-40.

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1 hour ago, JPL said:

I called the number for Dave but it has been disconnected. I checked the # and it was as listed. I will clean it. I know it hasn't been cleaned in 7 years. Does anybody have a good # for T/S? I'll be checking more closely with Chet(NeverEasy) Monday. Hope the issue is simple. I'm doing a boat show all weekend so can't do much till Monday.  Getting a new head sounds like a good idea. Thanks again for all comments and ideas.    Pat

 

 

The Old Sailor

Dave hasn't been at TrailerSaver since he sold it to Hensley.  He then started several other hitch companies with one of the latest being Comfort Ride.  He sold Comfort to Rick Olson.

Alie & Jim + 8 paws

2017 DRV Memphis 

BART- 1998 Volvo 610

Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins

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On 2/8/2018 at 5:34 PM, lockmup68 said:

Mine will not lock if I have too much weight on the hitch head. It likes a light weight and locks fine, then I lower the jacks all the way. 

That's how mine works.  I back in with about a inch to inch and a half so that my plate pivots down and the hitch locks.  Then I lower the trailer all the way down.  I've always used a 1/8th Teflon disk.

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Same thing happened to mine. The jaws can get a little rust on them and not move freely. Backing into the pin would not close the jaws. When backed into the pin I used a bar to push the jaws to the center lock position, then the lock slide moved into place. I couldn't move my jaws by hand so I sprayed them down with silicon lubricant and worked them in and out with a cheater bar. They loosened up to the point I could move them by hand with light pressure. I now keep the hitch covered to keep rain and dirt off of it and I spray it down before and after each use and about every two weeks when not in use. No problems since starting a preventive maintenance routine. 

2006 Freightliner M2-112 Sportchassis
2015 Keystone Raptor 412-TS
Lots of motorcycles and toys

Murfreesboro, TN.

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13 hours ago, Chuck Williams said:

I now keep the hitch covered to keep rain and dirt off of it and I spray it down before and after each use and about every two weeks when not in use. No problems since starting a preventive maintenance routine. 

 

If you can, that is the thing to do - protect the hitch. Let's face it, most of our hitches spend 99% of their time just sitting out in the weather. I wish the manufacturers would provide fitted covers. Trailersaver has them, and I had one made for my ET. But the hitch manufacturers should be offering these, IMO.

Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member
Living on the road since 2000

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I made one for mine but to be honest haven’t used it much.  Before that found a grill cover at Lowes with a drawstring which worked pretty well.

2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift

Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding"

2017 DRV 39DBRS3

2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty"

 

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