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Oil Change?


aunut

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I changed the oil in my 2014 V10 Triton engine the end of September and used Mobil1 extended mileage synthetic oil and a new extended mileage filter. I have only taken 2 trips totaling less than 1500 miles since. The odometer is around 21,000. Do I really need to change it now, or can I wait much further than the 6 months since the change?

2014 Winnebago Vista 35B Class A. 2010 Honda CR-V.

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For low-use engines many folks change oil N filter annually or by oil analysis results instead of by the factory maintenance schedule.

 

2000 Winnebago Ultimate Freedom USQ40JD, ISC 8.3 Cummins 350, Spartan MM Chassis. USA IN 1SG retired;Good Sam Life member,FMCA ." And so, my fellow Americans: ask not what your country can do for you--ask what you can do for your country.  John F. Kennedy 20 Jan 1961

 

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I do not recall the last time I changed oil at 3000 mile intervals.  I am sure some manufacture still does, but it has been a long time since I have seen that recommendation.  What does your owners manual state?  

I do not have a link because I found this on another forum on a web search:

FORD's 2014 F-Series Super Duty Class A Motorhome and Commercial Chassis Owner's Manual (PAGE 125):
Every 7,500 miles or 6 months change oil and filter (Page 127...If towing a trailer(car) every 5,000 or 6 months)
Every 15,000 miles or 12 months inspect the transmission fluid, consult dealer for requirements. Further down the page it says change the transmission fluid at 60,000 miles.
Every 15,000 miles.......Inspect steering linkage, ball joints, suspension, tie-rod ends, driveshaft and U-joints. Lubricate if equipped with grease fittings. (mine has grease fitting)
Every 30,000 miles change Air Filter
Every 97,500 miles replace spark plugs.
Every 105,000 miles change engine coolant, and rear axle fluid.

For most of my non-daily driver vehicles/equipment I will change oil annually unless I put lots of miles/hour on it.  I am still trying to decide what to do about my HDT since it takes 10 gallons of oil and 3 filters.  I will not come close to needing a changed based on miles.  I am debating about annual vs every other year.......

 

2014 Volvo 630. 2016 Fuzion 325T, RZR 900 Trail 
675ah AGM, MSH 3012 inverter, 960w Solar.  (2016 Chevy 3500 DRW, backup)

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17 minutes ago, Nwcid said:

I do not recall the last time I changed oil at 3000 mile intervals.  I am sure some manufacture still does, but it has been a long time since I have seen that recommendation.  What does your owners manual state?  

 

 

Really doesn't matter what the manual says , as I do it for peace of mind and the assurance that the motor has excellent lubrication . The 25 bucks it costs me is very cheap insurance . 

I've done 3k changes all my life and have never had a problem . Why would I even question that kind of history ? ;)

Goes around , comes around .

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35 minutes ago, Pat & Pete said:

Really doesn't matter what the manual says , as I do it for peace of mind and the assurance that the motor has excellent lubrication . The 25 bucks it costs me is very cheap insurance . 

I've done 3k changes all my life and have never had a problem . Why would I even question that kind of history ? ;)

Well if you are worried about warranties following manufacture recommendations could play a big role. 

There has been lots of changes in many things over they years.  Somethings may still work as well as in the past, some do not.  To each their own 🙂.  I try and stay up with the current recommendations on a wide variety of topics. 

Edited by Nwcid

2014 Volvo 630. 2016 Fuzion 325T, RZR 900 Trail 
675ah AGM, MSH 3012 inverter, 960w Solar.  (2016 Chevy 3500 DRW, backup)

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2 hours ago, Pat & Pete said:

Really doesn't matter what the manual says , as I do it for peace of mind and the assurance that the motor has excellent lubrication . The 25 bucks it costs me is very cheap insurance . 

I've done 3k changes all my life and have never had a problem . Why would I even question that kind of history ? ;)

How are you doing an oil change for $25?

The last oil change I did was north of $100 just for the parts, on a silly little SUV.

2000 volvo 610
2013 cyclone 3950

 

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3 hours ago, Nwcid said:

Well if you are worried about warranties following manufacture recommendations could play a big role. 

There has been lots of changes in many things over they years.  Somethings may still work as well as in the past, some do not.  To each their own 🙂.  I try and stay up with the current recommendations on a wide variety of topics. 

Good you like to stay current . :)

Not many warranties left on a 21 year old Monaco to have to concern myself with . ;)

Goes around , comes around .

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On 4/19/2021 at 1:52 PM, steiny93 said:

How are you doing an oil change for $25?

The last oil change I did was north of $100 just for the parts, on a silly little SUV.

What parts are costing you a hundred dollars ?

Oil cost me about $21 and I have a half quart left over . 

Filter cost me about $4 . I suppose I could get away with changing that every other oil change , but , don't . 

The time involved is a non issue , as I have plenty to spare . Even for something as mundane as a dumb old oil change . LOL

Besides , it only takes twenty to thirty minutes . That's with taking a coffee break between , so the oil fully drains . 

Edited by Pat & Pete

Goes around , comes around .

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17 hours ago, Pat & Pete said:

What parts are costing you a hundred dollars ?

Oil cost me about $21 and I have a half quart left over . 

Filter cost me about $4 . I suppose I could bet away with changing that every other oil change , but , don't . 

The time involved is a non issue , as I have plenty to spare . Even for something as mundane as a dumb old oil change . LOL

Besides , it only takes twenty to thirty minutes . That's with taking a coffee break between , so the oil fully drains . 

BMW X5, 10 quarts of LL-01 oil and a filter, $102 is the cheapest available online, just the oil in town is north of $130, filter is $20.

The truck next to it is an EcoDiesel, $75 is the parts bill for that one.

2000 volvo 610
2013 cyclone 3950

 

ontheroad.jpg

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When you pull the plug, send a sample to Blackstone Labs (or an oil analysis lab of your choice). It is nice to show a potential buyer that you kept a record of engine wear via the analysis. My 77 GMC MH has 120k on it and I keep an eye on wear and hopefully.....future problems, using oil analysis. Do NOT use the USPS to send an oil sample. Not reliable in any way. Use UPS. The lab will get the sample then.

1977 GMC Eleganza II

ARS WBOJOT

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2 hours ago, hemsteadc said:

Every 3,000 miles on a Cummins 8.3L diesel at 50 quarts would get a bit expensive. 

50? Really?

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


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Top RV Maintenance Tips from Cummins for Travel Season

Quote

Even if your coach has not traveled hit the mileage noted in the operating manual, we still recommend the following maintenance intervals for engine:

* Engines 450 HP and below (ISB6.7 and ISL9) - once per year

* Engines 500 HP and above (ISX12 and ISX15) - every 6 months.

 

Edited by Kirk W

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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Everyone seems to have opinions but no one seems to have any facts to back up the opinions.  Oil change intervals have always been that way.  Many people were told in their youth that oil should be changed every 3000 miles.  Dealers and garages love to keep that idea alive.  They make money on the changes and whatever else might be wrong.

Instead of going by opinions, I suggest you use google for some research.  I did but did not keep the large number of links I reviewed. 

My 2018 Ram CTD had 13500 miles when I returned from my one and only trip at the end of 2018.  A year later in the Fall of 2019 I had only driven another 1000 miles.  I went to the dealer for a $40 State inspection and had the oil, filter and fuel filters changed.  The bill for that was over $700!  Never again. 

A year after that I debated and debated and did my research and decided just to spend the $60 for 3 gallons of synthetic and did the change myself.  I am sure it was a total waste of time and money.  BTW, I did not bother with the oil filter since it is hard to reach.  I did not bother with the fuel filters due to the extremely low mileage.  Now another year and 1000 miles have gone by and I am still not quite ready for the next trip.  I had to syphon out and replace the DEF but I am going to skip any more maintenance.  The big issue with old oil is water.  I am very careful and run the truck until hot and then some about once a month.  I avoid any short stop and go driving.   

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5 hours ago, LarryN said:

When you pull the plug, send a sample to Blackstone Labs (or an oil analysis lab of your choice).

I use Blackstone Labs as well. The keep a record of each sample from each vehicle and the report shows all samples over time so that there are trends there to indicate what is happening in the engine. They do the same for a transmission. They also make recommendations about how long you should go between oil changes, 

1-1.png

Good travelin !...............Kirk

Full-time 11+ years...... Now seasonal travelers.
Kirk & Pam's Great RV Adventure

            images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQqFswi_bvvojaMvanTWAI

 

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These type of threads are always fun because of the diverse opinions. Hear is my opinion based on my experience and background. Yes I have actual training and ran a oil analysis lab when in the AF. 

First the oil of today is not the oil your grandfather used. The oil companies love those who still believe in the 3000 mile oil change. Dirty little secrets oil does not where out. Oil becomes contaminated and the additive package is depleted. The engines of today run many times cleaner than those your Grandfather had or even your father.

First thing is if you are under warranty follow the manufactures instructions to the letter and have documentation.

Now for those who want to extend their change intervals (low use or just extend it) I would start a oil sampling program. 

The big thing I see is at least 2 people talking about taking a sample when you drain the oil. This is the wrong way to do it for a couple of reasons. 1 when you take the sample from the oil stream draining out you are prone to get contaminates swept up by the fast moving oil off the bottom of the pan. This will give you a false reading.

2) you need to pull the sample with a little vacuum pump  (you can buy them from the website)  and a tube down the dipstick tube, being carful to not hit bottom and suck up contaminants. I use the length of the dipstick as a guide on how long to cut the tube and mark it. The reason you do this and have the results back BEFORE you drain your oil is if you get a false reading like really hi iron or al. you want to do a re test to verify the results. If you have dumped the oil you have no way to verify weather it was correct or not. In the example Kirk W posted if his Were really hi  the only alternative would be to borescope the cylinder's or do a teardown to see what was going wrong.

As it is he needs to find out why he has so much fuel in the oil.

Bill

2008 Newmar Mountain Aire model 4521
450 hp Cummins ISM
Allison 4000MH tran.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a blue Ox tow bar

Home base Fort Worth Texas

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.

-Mark Twain-

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9 hours ago, steiny93 said:

BMW X5, 10 quarts of LL-01 oil and a filter, $102 is the cheapest available online, just the oil in town is north of $130, filter is $20.

The truck next to it is an EcoDiesel, $75 is the parts bill for that one.

Hmm , those rigs sound a lot like a 'high maintenance' girl I once dated . Not satisfied unless there was big money wine and indoor plumbing . ;) 

Goes around , comes around .

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3 hours ago, JimK said:

Everyone seems to have opinions but no one seems to have any facts to back up the opinions.  Oil change intervals have always been that way.  Many people were told in their youth that oil should be changed every 3000 miles. 

Oil change intervals have always been , and likely always will be , a matter of value . How much any given owner values their machine .

I don't know about your motors , but , I can say without hesitation that 4,000 miles on any motor I've ever owned  produces much worse looking and feeling oil than 3,000 miles . 

Like anything else of any value , too much dirty isn't good . 

Edited by Pat & Pete

Goes around , comes around .

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Though the '90s, I had an Isuzu Trooper that came with a Chevy 6 and Chevy AT.  I was pretty good about doing 7500 mile oil changes although I was probably late a few times.  After 290,000 miles the engine was still going strong with no issues.  Unfortunately the AT died and was not worth the cost of repair.  Engines and oils are better now.  It is easy to prove just send your 4000 mile oil in for testing and then do it again when it hits double that mileage. 

Edited by JimK
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I change my 06 (325k miles) and now 18 Duramax oil at 5k miles using synthetic oil. My truck is pulling a heavy load for most of it's miles and the Blackstone sample results show I could easily double the miles between oil changes. For the DIYS $50, a 5k schedule averages out to be 6 months for my truck which is a good time/reason to crawl around under the truck and check everything out. I always change oil immediately after a long pull when scheduled while setting up the camper and no campground has ever said a word if you do it fast and discretely. Used oil goes back to the next Walmart stop. Greasing and fuel filters are changed later after I get to feel out the campground on their policies.

If you really want to know how your oil is holding up along with a health check on your motor, then get a sample test done by a lab. This will take all the guess work out of any oil questions. It's like a blood lab sample on a human body.

Edited by gjhunter01
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1 hour ago, Pat & Pete said:

I don't know about your motors , but , I can say without hesitation that 4,000 miles on any motor I've ever owned  produces much worse looking and feeling oil than 3,000 miles . 

Like anything else of any value , too much dirty isn't good . 

Without doing a oil sample you can't tell anything. You can't feel the where metals in the oil as they are in parts per million.

Bill

2008 Newmar Mountain Aire model 4521
450 hp Cummins ISM
Allison 4000MH tran.
Towing a 2014 Honda CRV with a blue Ox tow bar

Home base Fort Worth Texas

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.

-Mark Twain-

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