What did you do to your truck today?

[jenandjon]

I don't know if you realize this or not but when you pull the Johnson bar your brake lights come on. Also depending on how you have your brake controller hooked up it will still activate your trailer brakes. 

I just have a normal old fashion electric brake controller like you put in a pickup. I don't know how the others react. 

[Case20hp]

On most trucks with air brakes, the brake lights are activated by a pressure switch in the brake lines. If the Johnson bar output is disconnected from the brake system in the right spot it won’t make the brake lights activate. With the Johnson bar being a regulated valve it should make for an interesting air horn control. Should be able to change the sound of the horn in pitch and volume somewhat. 

[Darryl&Rita]

Given the air consumption of true train horns, there's no way the tubing and valve size on the company brake handle will do more than an anemic "wheeze..." To begin with, train horns run around 150 psi tanks and compressors, some higher. Then all the tubing and connectors are 1/2", minimum. Size matters.

[Av8r3400]

On 6/23/2023 at 11:16 AM, rpsinc said:

What connectors did you use?  I am not a fan of Scotchlok for this application but used them in my recent frame lengthen, hitch replacement, light upgrade project.  Would like to use something that is NOT prone to failure with vibration.

I used a 6-way weather pack plug to a 5-core wire down to my Jackalopee output bus bar.  This is also where I tied in the "safety lights" on the back of the farings.

[rpsinc]

13 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:

I used a 6-way weather pack plug to a 5-core wire down to my Jackalopee output bus bar.  This is also where I tied in the "safety lights" on the back of the farings.

I tied in  at the Volvo plug and used some SO cord to go to a plastic junction box with a small terminal strip in it.  But my uncomfortable issue is the connections at the light whips to field wiring.  I have some WP multi terminal connectors but the tying in of say the lights on the other side of the bed connection to the lights on this side of the bed and then going to the J-box.  Thats where the Scotchloks are and I want to replace them.

[rickeieio]

I like the idea of a junction box.  I wish I'd done that.  Instead, I made up sub harnesses for each section of the bed, joined with the WeatherPack connectors.  It was time consuming, but I can now alter my wiring if I choose to add lights.  For instance, I changed some of my side markers from just run, to run/turn/brake, by adding one wire to the harness and switching out the plugs from 2 hole to 3 hole.

[mike5511]

On 6/28/2023 at 4:15 PM, Darryl&Rita said:

Given the air consumption of true train horns, there's no way the tubing and valve size on the company brake handle will do more than an anemic "wheeze..." To begin with, train horns run around 150 psi tanks and compressors, some higher. Then all the tubing and connectors are 1/2", minimum. Size matters.

This is just one of those triple "train horns" they sell in all the chrome shops. It still is rated best at 125 -145 psi, which my truck  won't do. But, I've changed the plan now. Half inch line direct to the horn through a ball valve. We shall see how it does.

[lappir]

A LOT. 

 

Picked up the new to me 770 and started moving things from one to the other. Finding lots of things I forgot I had and some things the prior owner probably forgot he had. Lots of new Windshield wipers in lots of different places. I put them all in one spot and most likely won't be able to find one when I need it. TMI

Was able to back under the trailer and actually lock the hitch. Couldn't move it, because the frame extended between the jack supports. I guess if I didn't want to turn...

Found water in the lower gasket of both upper windows after finding a damp corner on one of the bench cushions. I'd like to eliminate them and heard there was a kit when I replaced one last summer. I couldn't wait for one to be found and Vanderhaggs had a used one in Des Moines. I might start a search soon. 

The near 200 mile drive with the truck yesterday was sure nice. Much better than the Bus ride to pick it up. Thankfully the day stayed breezy and not too hot so I was outside almost all day. Actually mounted my dash camera and it will stay there. I have two of the same type and can switch out with my motorcycle one with the magnetic mount if needed. 

I took a lot of pictures yesterday and today, but none of the whole truck and trailer together. That will come some day. I hope to post a photo of where I plan to cut off the extra frame for suggestions and comments. 

Hitch slid all the way forward. Could try sliding it back, but doubt I'll run that way much. 

The planned cut off is now a couple foot back from the suggested one earlier. 

Forgot to measure, but 58 inches to the pin was what they said it would be. I should have 48 inches and wish I would have measured. 

 

Rod

 

[jenandjon]

Are you going to all a receiver hitch on the back? Going through that much work you just as well.  

[rickeieio]

When we built the bed on our old truck, we incorporated a receiver hitch.  In 11 years, we never used it.  So, on our new(er) truck, I didn't bother.

BUT, I wish I'd built in a pair of receivers, at least 2+ feet apart, as a place to mount some sort of carrier or genny box.  The reason for two rather than one is to eliminate the wobble and rattle of a single receiver.

[lappir]

3 hours ago, jenandjon said:

Are you going to all a receiver hitch on the back? Going through that much work you just as well.  

I might, will see how things look when I get it cut off and if the parts I have will work. I'm planning to mount the box that was on the side of the other truck at the back. It has a fold down door, so that would get in the way of a receiver hitch. It's too big to have the hitch below it. I maybe could put it on the side behind the tires and get a matching one for the other side to leave the middle open. Need to start collecting cardboard to make some models. I'd do only one receiver, but would have something on each side to minimize the wobble Rick mentioned. 

 

Rod

[Rotorhead]

Well I removed my DOC/DPF assembly today. I also disassembled it. I had a code that the DOC was clogged. But I did not have a check engine light.

I only snapped the bolt on one exhaust clamp and two bolts on the support bar that goes between the fairing pin bushings at the top. So I’ll need to make a trip to the hardware store to get a couple bolts and nuts.

Rust is not my friend. 
 

hopefully the cleaning and reassembly will go well. I think it’s going to be challenging to get everything lined up.

[Rotorhead]

3 hours ago, Rotorhead said:

Well I removed my DOC/DPF assembly today. I also disassembled it. I had a code that the DOC was clogged. But I did not have a check engine light.

I only snapped the bolt on one exhaust clamp and two bolts on the support bar that goes between the fairing pin bushings at the top. So I’ll need to make a trip to the hardware store to get a couple bolts and nuts.

Rust is not my friend. 
 

hopefully the cleaning and reassembly will go well. I think it’s going to be challenging to get everything lined up.

I added a pic of the DPF. What do you think? When you hold a flashlight to the outlet side you can’t see any light. But on the DOC you can see light. Of course the DOC is not as thick as the DPF. Anyway tomorrow they are getting cleaned.

[Rotorhead]

19 hours ago, Rotorhead said:

I added a pic of the DPF. What do you think? When you hold a flashlight to the outlet side you can’t see any light. But on the DOC you can see light. Of course the DOC is not as thick as the DPF. Anyway tomorrow they are getting cleaned.

Post cleaning filters. And reassembled unit.

air flow seems to be good through the DPF now. When I started washing it the water wasn’t even going right through it. Once it get it back on the truck I’ll see if the code is gone and the regen works again.

[Rotorhead]

On 7/5/2023 at 7:17 PM, Rotorhead said:

Post cleaning filters. And reassembled unit.

air flow seems to be good through the DPF now. When I started washing it the water wasn’t even going right through it. Once it get it back on the truck I’ll see if the code is gone and the regen works again.

Got it out on the road. It’s running great. I had to reset the code in the advance section of the Cummins Insite. I did a parked regen and it was done in 33 minutes. 
the only thing that I messed up was putting the differential pressure tubes on backwards. It gave me a 1993 code. Once I put the lines in the right place it cleared itself. 
Happy camping!

[lappir]

Glad to here it worked out. Happy travel. 

 

Rod

[jenandjon]

I spent th last week at Boy Scout camp. Wife sent me these pictures. Our trailer is at out lease spot down on the river. A storm rolled through, and a tree hit it. We fared better than my neighbor. His trailer is totaled. Sent pictures to state farm and they already have a check in the mail. After deductible $6,300 and change. 

 

[JGWALES]

In order to make sleeper more comfortable, i removed the little closet on passenger side, added a stock used upper cabinet now i have upper cabinets on both drivers and passenger sides. Man good used ones are hard to find at a fair price

[aknavy]

Over the weekend, I had the alternator belt break while in heavy traffic.  The belt runs AC and alternator.  Made it to a service plaza on the turnpike right as a big storm rolled thru.  Voltage on the truck was dropping, so fired up the generator and ran and extension cord to the inverter charger. 

All involved pulleys spun free, so tracked down a belt...one belt found in a 30 mile radius.  Unhooked the toad from the trailer, picked up the belt, replaced.....and the alternator pulley froze as soon as it spun under tension.  So, took belt off and limped down the road to a campground.

Tracked down alternator - got a Volvo OEM replacement for about $400.  Much bigger/heavier duty than the original one on a 2001.  Had to drive an hour to get it.  Also replaced the other fan belt on the truck and got back on the road the next day.

Belts were on my list to get spares for - I could only find one of each, so need to get another set for spares.  We got lucky and were able to get back on the road with only a one full day delay.  Had I not been able to get the parts, the plan was to run the generator thru the inverter charger to power the truck and suck it up and drive without AC. 

[mike5511]

On 6/6/2023 at 10:07 PM, mike5511 said:

Swapped out the old train horn today for a new one. It’s just one of those three horn units from United Pacific. The old one never did work real good. Wondering what size air line it’s supposed to have?  Also wonder how many amps it takes to trigger the solenoid to open the air valve? It’s a long run and looks like 16guage at the most. The problem with the old horn may have been in the horn button on the steering wheel itself. Still need to look into that. The horn is on the front of the bed behind the sleeper. Probably a 20’ run for the air line at least. I’m wondering if I need a small ping tank and a relay for the 12 volt. I’ll figure it out, but open to advice and suggestions. 

Finally got it done. It's loud!

[mike5511]

Just now, mike5511 said:

Finally got it done. It's loud!

 

[Larry Burkett]

I get goosebumps just looking at them.😁😁😁

[JGWALES]

I bet your train Horns are very popular with everyone when you let them go...........

[Rotorhead]

On 7/23/2023 at 4:08 PM, mike5511 said:

 

That's awesome. I could have used that a week or two ago when a fellow from D.C. tried running into my driver side steer. 

[Rotorhead]

Took my rig in for a DOT/State inspection at the dealer. It was on the way home. They failed me for the right turn signal on the sleeper for having water in it. The ones I ordered hadn't come in yet. And they failed the 5th wheel for the right bushing being out of tolerance. Even though they passed it last year. Oh well. Turn signals took 5 minutes a side to replace. Not so sure I am going to fix something I don't intend to use. I just need to remove it. 

Is there anything that needs to be done after removing the 5th wheel? Like putting a plate on it for frame support?