house Posted September 25, 2019 Report Share Posted September 25, 2019 I am trying to wire a brake controller in my truck, but after talking to a couple of technicians, and looking myself my International Prostar does not have a brake light switch, aside from the trailer connector. at least a 12 v one. Since I would rather not splice into the wiring of the connector. Does anyone have a part number for a dot airline T with a normally open switch that i could just add into the brake system air line? It seems like that would be the easiest way to get get my electric brakes to come on when i step on the pedal. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted September 25, 2019 Report Share Posted September 25, 2019 Take a look at a Hayes air/electric controller - T’s into 1/4” air line and provides proportional brake output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
house Posted September 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2019 I have heard the hayes controller does not work with electric over hydraulic brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewhoknowslittle Posted September 25, 2019 Report Share Posted September 25, 2019 1 minute ago, house said: I have heard the hayes controller does not work with electric over hydraulic brakes. Not true, I used one on my 99 Volvo and Jim Roach still uses one on his 99 Volvo pulling DRV's with hydraulic brakes. Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted September 25, 2019 Report Share Posted September 25, 2019 Mine never worked good. Went air over hydraulic and never a problem. And absolutely no lag time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted September 25, 2019 Report Share Posted September 25, 2019 3 hours ago, Hewhoknowslittle said: Not true, I used one on my 99 Volvo and Jim Roach still uses one on his 99 Volvo pulling DRV's with hydraulic brakes. Roger Correct, On the Hayes. On the older trucks the Tuson brake controller may not integrate with the trucks software. So it's either use the Hayes or convert the trailer with a Blu-Dot system as Glen West has. There are people that get away with using a Tekonsha P3 controller but they are not as effective as they don't sense the deceleration of the truck like in a pick up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Call Tuscon brake directly and ask the boss Felice One'. Their system is new tech and lightyears ahead of what it replaced. It can tell me if all the brakes are pulling enough amps or not. Ask her directly, they are constantly upgrading their system. Felice One Tuson RV Brakes, LLC Office: 800-968-8766 ext. 219 www.tusonrvbrakes.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 (edited) I had a Hayes (the new type) on my truck when I switched to electric over hydraulic. The Hayes could not be adjusted to stop from skidding the tires on the RV no mater how gently I put the brakes on. I had to tape a small block of wood to the manual activation knob to limit the movement of the controller. Lucky for me, I found a new Max Brake controller that works great. Also, putting an air device in the brake line that is just 12VDC on/off is a bad idea. It will provide full 12VDC to the brakes at every closure of the switch. It will definitely slid the tires. Edited September 26, 2019 by NeverEasy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
house Posted September 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 (edited) NeverEasy, I need something to provide a brake pedal signal to my brake controller, not simply hooking the brakes up to it. I have looked at the Direct link and may go that route but it uses the same Tekonsha plug that requires a brake pedal signal to activate the trailer brakes, even though it uses ODB to determine the braking power from what I got from talking with them. I pull several different trailers so going air over hydraulic is not really an option for me. Edited September 26, 2019 by house Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 (edited) Dealership, doesn't even have to be International, or independent truck shop, or NAPA parts house, or ... Edited September 26, 2019 by Darryl&Rita Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Why can’t you get a “brake light” signal from the brake lights at the trailer connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 Looks like International #2021313C1 for inside the cab or 2035006C2 if outside the cab and a KV2T07-00 tee would be the parts I'd try if needing a non pipe threaded switch. Or if you do end up finding the factory switch, use a KV2U07-99-1 plug in Y, plug that in, then old switch into that, and a short piece of airline to the new switch and a KV2H07-00 union hooking them together. (stem switches won't fit side by side in the Y) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moresmoke Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 (edited) 8 hours ago, house said: NeverEasy, I need something to provide a brake pedal signal to my brake controller, not simply hooking the brakes up to it. I have looked at the Direct link and may go that route but it uses the same Tekonsha plug that requires a brake pedal signal to activate the trailer brakes, even though it uses ODB to determine the braking power from what I got from talking with them. I pull several different trailers so going air over hydraulic is not really an option for me. I can’t comment on the Direct Link specifically as I have never worked with them. But, all the brake controllers I have been around use the brake light connection for both a brake signal and to turn the brake lights on when the slide bar used. When I set mine up the best I could do was to connect to the Jackalopee so the trailer lights come on with the slide bar. Edited September 26, 2019 by Moresmoke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted September 26, 2019 Report Share Posted September 26, 2019 What DesertMiner said. Gregg used to pull his signal from the Jackolope and run it forward to the brake controller. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chief916 Posted September 27, 2019 Report Share Posted September 27, 2019 21 hours ago, rdickinson said: Call Tuscon brake directly and ask the boss Felice One'. Their system is new tech and lightyears ahead of what it replaced. It can tell me if all the brakes are pulling enough amps or not. Ask her directly, they are constantly upgrading their system. Felice One Tuson RV Brakes, LLC Office: 800-968-8766 ext. 219 www.tusonrvbrakes.com Yes call these people at Tuson. I finally trashed my Hayes and bought a new Tuson. I first bought one about 2 years ago with the HD module but it wouldn't work so I explained this to Tuson rep and he said I could send it back which I did and bought the Hayes unit...pia is all I can say. Didn't work well enough for my satisfaction. When it went TU,. Air Force maintainer parlance for "tits up"..I called Hayes and the tech said well we can't help. Sooooo I start pricing the Tuson something like 350 or something like that. Checked on the "Western wheels" I think, not sure but they sell alot of this kind of stuff as well. They said on sale for 250 and 124 for the HD truck module...so I got it for less than what Tuson wanted. Went to register everything but it all went to Tuson. When I got a email from them...I told her what had transpired and they had not a problem registering the purchase. Removed the Hayes and plugged in the Direclink and fired her up. Works better than the Hayes. You won't be sorry. My rig is a 1997 Volvo WIA64 singled toten a 2013 cyclone th. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted September 27, 2019 Report Share Posted September 27, 2019 I have a Tuson in my 06 Dodge won ton works great. I have a Hayes in my KW dooly works great. My KW has um, electric lights, starter, alternator, and speedometer. The rest is kinda mechanical. The Hayes can be operated by the foot valve or the trailer brake control for hill start aid, convenient tug test when hooking up, and playing Billy Big Rig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 I may have mentioned earlier that according to the controller I was drawing about13 to 13 amps when applying the brakes. Tuscon said that was not enough, should be close to 18. So I got a DC clampmeter from Amazon and managed to get under the trailer to test the draw per wheel. 5 read around 2.3 and one read zero. So the DC clampmeter works and so does the readout on the controller screen. They have recently come out with a tpms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 53 minutes ago, rdickinson said: I may have mentioned earlier that according to the controller I was drawing about13 to 13 amps when applying the brakes. Tuscon said that was not enough, should be close to 18. So I got a DC clampmeter from Amazon and managed to get under the trailer to test the draw per wheel. 5 read around 2.3 and one read zero. So the DC clampmeter works and so does the readout on the controller screen. They have recently come out with a tpms. What gauge is the brake wiring on the trailer? When we had the Carrilite, I pulled #8 wire for the electric brakes and they worked much better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 There were 2 white wires going into the hub. My guess is 14g. They were the only ones seen. It's really tight under there and needs the trailer jacked up to get a good look. What you say makes sense. If I could see where they splice into a heavier wire, I could check it there. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix2013 Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 The brake light output on all controllers is to tell people behind you and your trailer that you are activating the brakes utilizing the manual override (not using the brake pedal). If you have a Jackalopee run that wire into the Jackalopee and crimp it together with brake light push on for the truck brakes. This way the truck brakes activate the brake lights and the controller activates the brake lights. The brake lights don't care who is doing this. Lot easier that tearing apart dashboards and splicing into things that require "education". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Henry The way I read it is the original poster is looking for a brake light signal for the input on his controller. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phoenix2013 Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Ah pardon. Never worked with Tucson (I'm an air over hydraulics disciple), does Tucson require a brake light input to sort of "wake up the electronics", "get going, this is for real, send the current to the trailer" deal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted October 9, 2019 Report Share Posted October 9, 2019 Yep.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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