GlennWest Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Saw a homemade buss bar on YouTube. Aluminum angle with copper pipe flattened. Bolts through that and mounted to wood. Curious, any of you make your own. With several pairs of batteries one is needed with multiple posts. Sure could make them lot less money than buying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARGO Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 If the batteries are next to each other, why not just use a Volvo battery connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted January 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) What is a Volvo battery connector? Edited January 3, 2019 by GlennWest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kirk W Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 4 hours ago, GlennWest said: Aluminum angle with copper pipe flattened. Bolts through that and mounted to wood. I wouldn't mount a busbar to wood as it will conduct if it should ever become damp. Making your own could be done but I would use true insulating materials for all mounting attachments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARGO Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Pre-made jumper wire, very heavy to connect start batteries w/ 4 connections. My pics are too big to post here. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance A Lott Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 18 minutes ago, ARGO said: Pre-made jumper wire, very heavy to connect start batteries w/ 4 connections. My pics are too big to post here.  Try this http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=3 size doesn't matter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) Glenn you always come up with good questions...…...Sure I like the idea of COPPER as a good buss and junction material (provided sufficient mechanical strength). I'm NOT a fan of two dissimilar metals joined together as that causes battery action/corrosion. Id say a guy can find all sorts of junction blocks and buss bars intended for use say inside panelboards etc that are suitable for copper conductors and NOT comprised of two dissimilar metals. Once I made mine up I thoroughly coated them with waterproof spray and brush on coatings/sealants to keep water and oxygen away. PS those factory buss bars aren't all that expensive John T Live from sunny 80 degree Florida yayyyyyyyyyyyyyy Edited January 3, 2019 by oldjohnt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveh Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Glenn rather than smash pipe why not just order from copper from a place like this https://www.metalsdepot.com/brass-products/copper-flat-bar. Also, you can buy on ebay. I agree with John you just seem to be asking for problems by attaching it to aluminum angle. I have not made my own but looked into it and then bought them due to time considerations. I think if you walk through a dollar store or home depot you will see all kinds of plastic or rubber items that could be used for mounting (bottoms for canes or table feet). Otherwise if wood is easiest just put a buffer layer of plasticor dip them in plastidip.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Hey Glenn take a gander at Digi-Key -Â no end of electron stuff and lots of their part numbers can be ordered in qty 1 of... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance A Lott Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Gleen if you go on Ebay or Amazon and search bus bar you will find lots of different ones. Most about $12. And stainless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveh Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019  Glenn's system involves major loads and I suspect he is looking at busbars like this which are anything but cheap.  https://www.electricalhub.com/blue-sea-2107-powerbar-busbars-600-amp-2.  John T what do we really need for busbars because there can be a vast price differential which is why I looked at making my own heavy duty ones just like Glenn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted January 3, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 Searching and found info on using acyrlic flat plat and bolt copper bar to it. That looks promising. Yes, when I stated searching high amp 10 post buss bars , that adds up fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALLOY Posted January 3, 2019 Report Share Posted January 3, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, GlennWest said: Searching and found info on using acyrlic flat plat and bolt copper bar to it. That looks promising. Yes, when I stated searching high amp 10 post buss bars , that adds up fast. I've made a few. Most often I'll use 1/4" or 3/8" x 1" copper - 1/4" drilled and tapped for 1/4" bolts - 3/8" drilled and tapped for 5/16" bolts. The 1" wide material is necessary to provide the surface contact for 1/0 - 4/0 wire/cable lugs. When making the connection use an anti corrosive paste like Noalox or Tef-Gel Here's a chart https://stormpowercomponents.com/resources/ampacity-tables/quick-copper-busbar-design-selector   Edited January 3, 2019 by ALLOY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted January 4, 2019 Report Share Posted January 4, 2019 Just a heads up, the bolts also have a max. ampacity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted January 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) Thanks so much . You guys are great Edited January 4, 2019 by GlennWest Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldjohnt Posted January 4, 2019 Report Share Posted January 4, 2019 Of course, the actual "buss bar" (big chunk of metal) has to be capable of handling the maximum current that could flow say from one end to the other and in an "ideal" world the bar itself and any lugs, bolts and set screws would all be of the same metal. As you all know  in an electrical panel instead of cable ends bolted to a buss there are holes with the same metal set screws and all that's rated for Copper or Aluminum conductors, but that's different from most RV battery cable installations. I would not hesitate to use an AC electrical panel type of metal buss bar with holes (say suitable for 1 or 0 or 00 gauge cable) and set screws versus RV type cable ends onto a bolt/stud. I would venture a pure guess (no idea of Glenns actual max loads) the big Neutral or Ground buss bars used in a 400 Amp Service panel might well suffice. Not to overthink all this a big enough piece of metal with big enough bolts/studs (say 3/8 hardware and same bolt metal as the bar itself) using lock washers and lock nuts then coat n seal once all is finished to keep oxygen and moisture away will surely "work" FWIW I have used a piece of flat steel and steel bolts/studs then sealed everything and never had a problem, and I still prefer NOT to mix say copper with aluminum and steel etc to avoid electrolysis...….Sure an AC panel buss bar may NOT be cooper but is for copper conductors, but there's some serious materials science and engineering behind that ya know lol. It was regular maintenance for our electricians to check the torque on all those panel set screws !!! Best wishes John T  Rusty so no warranty but believe this is still accurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daveh Posted January 4, 2019 Report Share Posted January 4, 2019 Thanks John. Interesting. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance A Lott Posted January 4, 2019 Report Share Posted January 4, 2019 (edited) https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232898743272 There are others as well for a DIY I would use stainless probably 1/4 by 1 1/2 or 3/8 by 1 with stainless hardware and two layers of the white cutting board for insulation, I think they are nylon, I used thick plexiglass to make one yeRs ago. Edited January 4, 2019 by Lance A Lott Clarity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted January 4, 2019 Report Share Posted January 4, 2019 Glen, We made our own buss bars in a variety of sizes in the marine business. But this is one area that paying up for the proper item for the proper job is best. Buy the time you buy the copper, base material, studs, fasteners, etc and put your time into it, it's better to buy off the shelf. We used Starboard as our base with copper bar stock, stainless studs and plexiglass covers.  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 (edited) On 1/3/2019 at 7:23 AM, GlennWest said: What is a Volvo battery connector? https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-12V-Leisure-Battery-Terminals-Connectors-Clamps-Car-Van-Caravan-Motorhome/292190847228?fits=Make%3AVolvo|Model%3AV50 Edited January 5, 2019 by Ray,IN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 https://class8truckparts.com/volvo-truck-21107829-battery-cable.html?utm_source=google_shopping&scid=scplp952&sc_intid=952&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIofX3r77V3wIVhblkCh0ppQEREAQYASABEgKb3_D_BwE&=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted January 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 12 hours ago, Ray,IN said: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-12V-Leisure-Battery-Terminals-Connectors-Clamps-Car-Van-Caravan-Motorhome/292190847228?fits=Make%3AVolvo|Model%3AV50 That will not work on a Chevy volt battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark and Dale Bruss Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 The actual Volvo Battery Bus Bar is far better built that the ones with links so far and as I remember, about the same price. I used to have a link to a Battery Bus Bar with the same construction as the Volvo version with one addition I liked. Beside the four holes for the battery studs, the bar has its own studs hear the end holes for attaching cable and wires without stacking on the battery studs. But alas I lost that link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray,IN Posted January 6, 2019 Report Share Posted January 6, 2019 14 hours ago, GlennWest said: That will not work on a Chevy volt battery. You didn't ask for one that worked on your battery, just simply "what is a Volvo battery connector". Sorry I replied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sehc Posted January 11, 2019 Report Share Posted January 11, 2019 There is difference in the alloy copper used for electrical conduction. The few dollars for a good bus bar is worth it to me. Why economize on safety? https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/18/BusBars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.