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oldjohnt's Achievements

  1. Glenn, I don't have a Victron brand, but my 500 Amp Shunt uses 3/8" studs with maybe an inch or so exposed for connections... John T
  2. Will B Thanks for sharing that information. You posted BatteryWiringDoc.pdf (dwo.net) Agrees with the information I posted: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html which states in part: "Now in all fairness, many people say "but the difference is negligible, the resistances are so small, so the effect will also be small". The problem is that in very low resistance circuits (as we have here) huge differences in current can be produced by tiny variations in battery voltage. I'm not going to produce the calculations here because they really are quite horrific. I actually used a PC based simulator to produce these results because it is simply too time consuming to do them by hand." A good thing is how such a simple re connection as used in METHOD 2 so greatly improves battery balance Hey Glenn, since 1) Your Positive side is easy to get to 2) You ALREADY have the negative side corrected and 3) Its so relative cheap n easy to rewire the Positive side 4) Considering such a huge investment in batteries and being best if ALL expensive batteries are balanced,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I "recommend" you do as BOTH articles above agree BUT ITS YOUR CHOICE NONE OF OURS Fun thread best wishes let us know how it turns out John T
  3. I just think if I invested such a HUGE amount in multiple Lithium batteries I would want them ALL BALANCED the best possible, even if sure what Glenn proposed will work fine and Im sure a bunch out there (maybe most systems) are wired how he intends or even worse lol Best wishes Glenn, Im sure you will have one fine system regardless John T Hey I don't claim to have my system all wired perfect either grrrrrrrr just giving what I consider a good answer Glenn PS to your post above "John I still had a #4 on the battery that difficult to get to. So what I did was hook up negative side with #4 from each battery to shunt" MY RESPONSE Iffffffffff you have 3 separate cables, preferably all the same length, from EACH battery Negative to your shunt THATS NOT THE SAME AS ALL NEGATIVES DAISY CHAINIED AND YOU TAP IN THE MIDDLE WITH A SINGLE CABLE TO THE SHUNT That's sounding more like Smart Gauges Methods 3 or 4 which "may" be fine, but Im unsure exactly how you're wired so just take a look at the Smart Gauge website and Im sure you will figure it out.............
  4. Glenn, FYI here’s what the Smart Gauge tests results indicated and what THEY had to say about the differences as to how multiple batteries are connected. These are NOT my calculations so if anyone has a disagreement take it up with them not me. THEIR (not mine) results show it indeed makes a significant difference as to load and charge balance versus the method of connection. AGAIN sure it still works EITHER way its just that if you want all batteries to share the load and charging the same you may want to at least consider how you wire them… ITS YOUR CHOICE NONE OF OURS SMART GAUGE TEST RESULTS AND THEIR CONCLUSIONS. Now in all fairness, many people say "but the difference is negligible, the resistances are so small, so the effect will also be small". The problem is that in very low resistance circuits (as we have here) huge differences in current can be produced by tiny variations in battery voltage. I'm not going to produce the calculations here because they really are quite horrific. I actually used a PC based simulator to produce these results because it is simply too time consuming to do them by hand. METHOD 1 Battery internal resistance = 0.02 Ohms Interconnecting lead resistance = 0.0015 Ohms per link Total load on batteries = 100 amps The bottom battery provides 35.9 amps of this. The next battery up provides 26.2 amps. The next battery up provides 20.4 amps. The top battery provides 17.8 amps. METHOD 2 After this simple modification, with the same 100 amp load.... The bottom battery provides 26.7 amps of this. The next battery up provides 23.2 amps. The next battery up provides 23.2 amps. The top battery provides 26.7 amps. METHODS 3 AND 4 (to achieve even better balance with multiple batteries) NOT SHOWN HERE, GO TO THEIR WEBSITE for all test results SmartGauge Electronics - Interconnecting multiple batteries to form one larger bank Best wishes Glenn, you asked the question and I gave an answer, now its up to you….and either still "works" even if not the best balance........ NOTE I support your or anyone's decision to wire however they please. I cant say I have always done things the absolute best perfect way and you should connect them however its best for YOUR situation be it prefect or almost prefect or questionable lol. Go for it its YOUR money YOUR batteries none of ours......Im only here to help the best i can... John T Retired n rusty electrical engineer so no warranty
  5. Glenn as you already know sure it will still work even if its not ideal. Its just that way you wont get as equal load and charge balance among all three batteries as if done right...... SmartGauge Electronics - Interconnecting multiple batteries to form one larger bank Its YOUR choice Im not here to tell people how to do things lol John T
  6. Hi again Dan, I think it not so much and only the PEX STIFFNESS, its that the PUMPS normal vibration gets transmitted/transferred from the pump to the surroundings via the relatively stiff PEX . That's where a piece of very flexible hose at the pump may absorb and reduce the vibration transfer and resulting noise. Similar, a soft cushion pump mounting can reduce transfer to the plywood on which its mounted. Hey if this is the worst problem you're having and with such an easy cheap fix, YOURE A LUCKY MAN LOL Best wishes take care Dan, hope we meet up someday, Im headed soon to San Diego CA then Austin TX then Florida, see you on the road John T
  7. Dan, what you described Ive seen many times over 50 years of RV ownership...A few of the typical causes I found were: 1) Insufficient rubber shock mounting, such as the hold down screws being over tight or the rubber dries out and gets stiff IE no more shock absorption and noise reduction. 2) The lack of any very soft very flexible (NOT hard plastic) anti vibration loops/sections in the pumps inlet and outlet connections. 3) Over stiff water piping near the pump up against thin light walls, now that can reallyyyyyyyyyy get noisy NOT blaming you but the picture makes it appear the stiff in and out lines right on the pump perhaps near plywood could be noise makers ????????? Actually I don't mind some degree of fresh water pump sound so I can hear what's going on lol Fortunately this doesn't sound serious unsafe or expensive to fix....... Best wishes to you and everyone John T
  8. Happy, thanks for the update. INDEED faulty outlets or poor wiring or loose or improper connections (In 50 years of RV ownership Ive seen that grrrrrrrr) cans be hazardous......Glad to hear you got it fixed YOU DID GOOD. John T Long retired Electrical Engineer
  9. I'm sure you already plan to do this, but a thorough removal of any old sealant or gasket/tape and crud etc then drying is essential. Off topic a bit, but on flat roof RV's the weight of the AC can cause a roof sag and I have been known to use creative methods of raising and bracing the roof just a tad in that area to prevent water accumulation near the AC...Such may appear a bit jury rigged but it works lol Let us know how things work out John T
  10. Ive changed a couple, never had a problem, BUT I KEPT THEM UPRIGHT.......I was afraid to lay them on their side but I cant say how good or bad or if it doesnt matter ????? John T
  11. I had one that acted that way once. I disconnected and re connected a few times and then turned the tanks valve on SLOWLYYYYYYYY which for some reason made it start working properly ??????? I could hear a snap/change/toggle in the assembly which seemed different if I opened the tank slow????????? John T
  12. Hey Star Dreamer, The ONLY things I can say for sure now are... 1) The Six Outlet Power strip in question (despite my original post) did indeed have Surge Protection... 2) Anytime it was plugged into any of my Inverters three outlet circuits, even if NOT where or same circuit the microwave was plugged, even if NOTHING was plugged to any of its 6 outlets, when the microwave started my Inverters GFCI tripped 3) For maybe two years prior, this DID NOT HAPPEN (Surge protectors MOV's can fail due to prior faults) 4) With the micro plugged to a GFCI on my porch it never tripped 5) With a saw or drill press or grinder plugged to the power strip in my garage which has GFCI protection NO trips 6) With the old power strip gone and a new non surge power outlet strip installed ALL WORKS PERFECT That's why my conclusion was the power strip was at fault WELL DUH and my best guess and theory was the microwave start introduced a line spike causing the power strips surge protector to shunt out the HV spike to the Equipment GroundING Conductor (NOT Neutral) thereby causing an imbalance due to the ground fault it sensed causing the Inverter to trip ............. Either that or magic or gremlins lol Best wishes take care be safe John T
  13. Ive also used a spray on gas leak detector sold at Ace Hardware it seems better then soapy water. The more gizmos and gadgets and after market bells n whistles one adds the greater the chances of failure grrrrrrrrrrr... I have an extend a stay with auto changeover I bought from Marshall Brass if I recall ??? So far no odors or apparent problems (but never really had the occasion to use it) but if you ever get that smell you're right in finding and correcting the problem ASAP Let us know what you find Best wishes be safe John T
  14. THANKS IN PART TO KIRKS ENCOURAGEMENT TO EXPERIMENT, I THINK I MAY HAVE DIAGNOSED THE CAUSE !!!!!! Here's what I believe caused the Inverters GFCI to trip when the microwave started anytime the power strip was present in the Inverters circuit. No warranty, I'm more experienced in AC power engineering then electronics. NOTE other devices like heater or hair dryer or a drill press or saw plugged to the strip worked fine either in the RV or elsewhere, it was ONLY the microwave in the RV IF STRIP WAS IN THE INVERTERS CIRCUIT ANYWHERE that caused the Inverters GFCI to trip.. 1) Contrary to what I thought earlier, the power strip which only has a lighted on off rocker switch (no other lights or indicators) like most do HOWEVER it did have surge protection as barely legible stamped on the case and had a small circuit board inside (with I believe an onboard MOV) 2) What a cheap basic surge protector "very basically" does is use a Metal Oxide Varistor (MOV) which shunts out to ground a high voltage spike on the line to prevent electronic equipment damage. 3) What GFCI very basically does is sense any current imbalance/difference in the Hot and Line and if there's more then 0.005 amps difference it trips out. If current (caused by HV line spike from micro starting) flows to ground as the surge protectors MOV does instead of Neutral, that's a "ground fault" as far as GFCI is concerned and senses. NOTE repeated MOV use caused by sufficient energy line spikes over time can eventually render them inaccurate or inoperative. This problem didn't happen before but started recently ............ IT IS MY BELIEF WHEN THE MICRO STARTED IT INDUCED A BRIEF HV SPIKE IN THE LINE,,,,,,,,,THE POWER STRIPS SURGE PROTECTOR SENSED THAT AND SHUNTED THE HV SPIKE TO GROUND,,,,,,,,,,WITH SOME SMALL CURRENT SHUNTED TO GROUND VERSUS NEUTRAL, THE INVERTERS GFCI SENSED THE IMBALANCE AND CORRECTLY TRIPPED AS DESIGNED TO DO........IE the surge protector and the Inverters GFCI BOTH WORKED CORRECTLY Soooooooo any of you fine experienced technicians or engineers think this makes sense ??????? Its the reason why I think the GFCI tripped with the power strips surge protection in the Inverter circuit when the micro started. Thats my story n Ima stickin to it (for now at least lol) Best wishes yall John T Longgggggggggg retired n rusty electrical engineer but still enjoy the subject and love to help anytime I can
  15. UPDATE I plug the bad power strip into an Inverter fed outlet in the RV kitchen (NOT where it was before) plug micro into it, Inverter GFCI trips instant micro starts I plug the micro into a kitchen outlet but plug the strip into the other duplex outlet in kitchen, Inverter GFCI TRIPS instant micro starts. I plug the micro into a porch GFCI outlet, micro works perfect I plug the strip into a garage outlet (fed by GFCI Circuit Breaker) and plug grinder or drill press or saw into the strip ALL WORK PERFECT Found no burns or shorts or bad wires when I split the strip in half. The inverters GFCI trips ONLY if that power strip is plugged anywhere in the RV into Inverter fed outlets even if NOTHING is plugged into any of its 6 outlets Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmm RF Microwave tube related like Kirk mentioned??????? Its has to do with the Inverters GFCI electronics but its above my pay grade and Im done messing with it since the new power strip allows all to work perfect Thanks for listening, experiment is over Im tossing it never to know why/how it happens but didn't for a whole past year ?????? John T
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