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About oldjohnt

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    RV Travel, Antique Tractor Shows, Bluegrass Festivals, Snowbirding

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  1. Mollys, looks like there are a ton of options out there, when I did a search for "50 Amp RV Power Cord Reel" here were a couple of the many hits: Take your pick !!!!!!!!! Amazon Search: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=50+amp+rv+power+cord+reel&hvadid=77928012845120&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_1kxv9dxhit_e Bing Search https://www.bing.com/search?q=50+amp+rv+power+cord+reel&form=EDGEAR&qs=AS&cvid=7567be9ce1f24d0b9f0687792c326b58&cc=US&setlang=en-US&elv=AQj93OAhDTi*HzTv1paQdnhPSWYafZRHNO1pMccFpJWq%21DIR8ps*kNcgrlmh31RDd86ZQmxyXXVD5NEcrWwHk8PSLB1ERNNysP7X7rjCU0CM&plvar=0&PC=LCTS John T
  2. Jason PS FYI Here's a typical 30 Amp 125 Volt "Twist Lock" RV Receptacle (mounts on side of RV) and the matching "Twist Lock" Plug that goes on the RV end of your Power Cord I found on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Leisure-Cords-Trailer-Marine-Power/dp/B0785N6B8Y/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&hvadid=78271604239054&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvqmt=e&keywords=30+amp+rv+twist+lock+receptacle&qid=1603140182&sr=8-3&tag=mh0b-20 Take a look see if this helps your understanding?? If you look closely you will see there are places for connecting three 10 Gauge wires from the rear of the Receptacle to your RV's Power Panel (that's where your existing cord ends up inside) and the Plug in the picture goes on the RV end of your power cord. The other end of the cord has the conventional 30 Amp plug for the parks power pedestal . I advise professional installation. John T
  3. Jason, PICTURE ONE is a standard 120 Volt 30 Amp NEMA TT-30 P Plug. Its cord has THREE 10 Gauge wires, Hot, Neutral, Ground. It is a straight blade NON Locking plug on the end of your RV's stored power cord for insertion in the parks 30 Amp power pedestal. Inside the RV the other end of that rubber cord is likely hard wired into your AC Power Distribution Panel...Three 10 gauge wires, Hot, Neutral, Ground PICTURE TWO "looks like" a "TWIST LOCK" connection. That would consist of two components, a "Twist Lock" Receptacle hard wired in the side of the RV,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, PLUS use of a "Twist Lock" Plug on the power cord end. The advantages of using stand alone Twist Lock is how you can store the cord and the fact they don't unplug so easy, they have to be twisted. CONVERSION if you want to use a stand alone "Twist Lock" system you need a new (or modified see below) cord with a Twist Lock Plug on its end PLUS you have to change the RV from the cord system you have to a new on the RV side hard wired "Twist Lock" Receptacle. Any good electrician or an RV service center could make that change unless you want to tackle it yourself. It would be possible to use a part of your existing 30 amp power cord, you could install a new "Twist Lock" Plug on one end PLUS on the RV you have to install a new "Twist Lock" Receptacle wired into your distribution system. That's basically three 10 gauge Wires from the new Twist Lock Receptacle to your panel. That's how/where the existing cord is wired inside...... IE one could connect a portion of the interior cord (if it wires to the panel) to the RV's new Twist Lock Receptacle !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Three wires, Easy Peasy lol There may well be You Tube Videos on converting from an RV straight blade 30 Amp over to a Twist Lock ??????? One could configure an adapter from blade to twist lock but I'm not a fan of that. Its simple (for a qualified person) to change from a hard wired 30 amp cord with a straight blade plug over to a Twist Lock system. Do your homework and insure its done safe and proper using a professional if you're not qualified NEW "Twist Lock" RECEPTACLE (on RV side hard wired to panel),,,,,,,,,,, New (0r replaced) Power Cord with a "Twist Lock" PLUG is all you need...........The other end of the RV power cord has a standard straight blade NEMA TT-30P 120 Volt 30 Amp Plug (same as your cord already has) for plugging to the parks power pedestal. If I were to convert I would cut off the RV side of the cord leaving enough length to wire to the new Twist Lock Receptacle (assumes it wires to panel),,,,,,,,On the end of the cord I just cut off I would install a new matching Twist Lock Plug,,,,,,,The cords other end already has a straight blade 30 Amp Plug for the RV park pedestal......... FYI the three wires from panel to Twist Lock Receptacle (you could use a piece of existing cord that's already wired to the panel) would be a Black HOT, a White Neutral, a Green Ground. The new Twist Lock Plug wires the same, Black, White, Green See Kirks good picture above for a "Twist Lock" Cord and Receptacle !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! John T
  4. One method to locate it is have everything turned off (except water pump of course, with NO connection to outside water spickets) with all quiet and turn on a faucet and LISTEN ..... They are more likely located close to your fresh water tank outlet then a water heater. Try to determine (yeah I know its hard things are hidden and tucked away) the fresh water external inlet to locate the tank, then look under beds or under bath or kitchen cabinets or outside openings IT HAS TO BE SOMEWHERE LOL There are all sorts of methods to winterize, but I'm not going into that here. John T
  5. Bill, GOOD READ, your link is Technomadia's website, as far as I'm concerned they are the best when it comes to Internet and security issues and can explain all this much better then most. Every time I get a chance I attend their seminars. It was their e mail alerts and tips that put me onto the AT&T ZTE Mobley unlimited plan as well as the Verizon unlimited plan just a day or so before it was discontinued whewwwwwwwwwww I just made it thanks to them lol John T
  6. Judy, its possible to use EITHER your phone as a Hotspot orrrrrrrrr a non phone yet still cellular MiFi Jetpack type of device (Verizon Jetpack or AT&T). While either work, I prefer my cell phones for ONLY phones and my MiFi Jetpack Hotspots for only Internet BUT THATS JUST MY PREFERENCE. ITS MY UNDERSTANDING NO WARRANTY after you log onto the net (with phone or hotspot) you can then use a VPN to enhance and protect security. Some of the anti virus anti trojan anti spyware or anti malware security products out there (PC Matic I believe) work on EITHER a phone or a computer. Im NOT any phone or internet security expert this is ONLY what I use so see what the Internet and security experts have to say. I have all sorts of virus and malware protection on my computer and use my Hotspots (or could my I Phone) to make my initial internet connection. Choosing what brand of anti virus or spy or mal ware or a VPN is like asking what brand of oil is best, there will be plenty of opinions lol. Similar there are sooooooooooo many mobile Internet options out there I cant make that choice for you. A lot depends on HOW MUCH DATA and HOW FAST OF A CONNECTION AND REMOTE CONNECTION AVAILABILITY you require, a few e mails or operating a business?????????? Sort of like performing an Energy Audit before designing a solar system, you need to perform a digital audit to determine your internet requirements and then shop for the best providers and then security options. I run more then one anti virus and security software program, I don't currently use a VPN and never had any problems (home or in RV using Jetpacks) but its still a good idea in my opinion I trust Technomadia's opinion over mine and many others but its YOUR choice John T NOT an expert so see what they have to say, this is ONLY what works for me
  7. Judy, I agree using a VPN can improve security and its not all that hard or expensive to go that route. We may find ourselves anywhere in the US in our RV and unless we are in an extreme remote location one or the other of our providers often allows adequate internet service. I'm lucky to have obtained (couple years ago, great price, grandfathered in) AT&T internet via a ZTE Mobley mobile hotspot with unlimited service PLUS unlimited Verizon using their 8800L Jetpack Hotspot (also couple years back grandfathered in). In the RV for Verizon I use an external MIMO antenna and a remote antenna/booster for cell phones and AT&T. When I'm at home I have AT&T 1000Mbs unlimited Fiber Optic internet service, so we pretty well have it covered at home or on the road. My cell phone is Verizon and my wifes (can serve as a mobile hotspot if needed) AT&T. Unfortunately for you neither of those unlimited plans I have are now available. Do your homework, shop around, and check Mobile Internet (Chris and Cherie) Resource. I (an ever curious electrical engineer) have twice attended their seminars and chatted them up and they (and/or their e mail updates etc) put me on to those plans at the time. Best wishes John T
  8. Glenn, fun and interesting pictures and thread. You always come up with good solar related questions and comments. For those who have very huge energy requirements there's no end to the inventive methods they come up with. I just have limited physical roof or even awning space on my smaller RV so chose an "all except AC" system which serves me well. Hey if it gets too hot I head North or to higher elevation lol. When designing a solar system one needs to account for days when they may be parked under a total shade canopy or it rains days on end grrrrrrrrrrr John T
  9. George, what you asked about are called "Portable Power Packs" which many low energy requirement RV folks are taking advantage of versus more expensive heavy duty high powered battery/solar/inverter systems. In your case such a unit, if it can store and deliver your CPAP power and energy ??? mines ONLY 25 Amp Hours per night, could be charged up during the day by plugging into a standard (to the extent available ???) 120 VAC household outlet. They store ENERGY often using Lithium DC batteries and have an internal Inverter for 120 VAC use overnight or whenever its needed. Its a simple among one of many methods to store up energy for later use. ALL SUBJECT TO YOUR CPAP'S POWER AND ENERGY REQUIREMENT !!!!!!!!!!!!! https://www.doityourselfrv.com/portable-power-shower/ https://www.amazon.com/Jackery-Portable-Solar-Ready-Generator-Emergency/dp/B07SM5HBK1/ref=asc_df_B07SM5HBK1/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=&hvpos=&hvnetw=o&hvrand=&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932704382280&psc=1 John T
  10. George, thanks for the updates. While a tag on a CPAP machine can provide valuable information including the necessary ratings for an Inverter and/or a 12 VDC cigarette lighter type power outlet and wiring, still, its actual ENERGY (Volts X Amps X Time) use depends on TEMPERATURE, PRESSURE, HUMIDITY AND USE TIME. I used a Kill A Watt to determine MINE used up 25 Amp Hours of my 12 Volt stored battery energy overnight, but of course different machines different users will be different. As I posted above any 12 VDC power outlet (be it a 100 or 200 or 300 or so watts) and any 12 VDC to 120 VAC Inverter and its wiring needs to be sufficiently rated to handle the load. While many smaller plug in type Inverters (100 or so Watt) may be Modified Sine Wave (MSW) and sure they "may" work fine, on one RV to allow for expansion I instead hard wired (direct to battery, NO plugs) a larger 400 Watt Pure Sine Wave (PSW) Inverter so I could also use it worry free on other appliances like a TV or Computer etc. If you haven't already purchased a CPAP a 12 VDC powered would save you an Inverter plus energy, but if you already have a 120 Volt unit its fairly cheap and easy to install a sufficient rated 12 VDC Power Outlet and an Inverter (plug in type or hard wired no outlet required). FYI just as an example to help you understand. Lets say you only had a small battery with 100 Amp Hours of energy storage capacity, meaning you only have 50 Amp Hours (if FLA or AGM) that's useable so as not to discharge over 50%. If when you went to bed and turned on your CPAP a 100 Amp Hour battery was 100% charged (likely not if you used lights and water pump and vent fans etc) and your CPAP consumed 25 Amp Hours overnight, you could (subject to SOC and use) "get by". However, if you also used much furnace or pumps or fans overnight or your weren't charged to 100% when started, you may not fare so well. PS you say you have two hooked together, maybe you have 150 to 200 Amp Hours max ?????? I cant say. Still, from what you describe, they sound more like starting batteries or at best RV Marine instead of true Deep Cycle, which sure still "work" for RV use, but not as well as a true Deep Cycle. A lot of gents who have room for two batteries and boondock often replace RV Marine or Starting batteries with a couple Deep Cycle 6 Volt Trojan T-105's in series for 12 volts and 225 Amp Hours. Subject to your energy requirements and how much and how long you want to boondock and need a CPAP, I would suggest a MINIMUM of 225 Battery Amp Hours of true Deep Cycle Batteries (such as two six Volt Trojan T-105's in series). Then of course you need either Solar or a Genset the next day to recharge. You got this, you're asking good questions and what you need isn't rocket science lol easy peasey !!! But you need adequate battery capacity and a means to recharge regardless DISCLAIMER an Energy Audit is required to answer your questions and absent any hard data the above can ONLY be a rough approximation and guess NOT accurate......... John T Hey I'm tying my best to inform but not overwhelm you lol
  11. Big Jim, good questions. my thoughts (absent any specs or data for his machine so no warranty) are even if a cheaper Modified Sine Wave Inverter may work fine, I still for the record would advise use of a Pure Sine Wave PSW. While I've seen problems with "some devices" powered with a MSW, I've NEVER seen problems caused using a PSW. In addition, the Inverter may be used at different times for different machines so if a person goes ahead and installs a PSW up front, there's less worry in the future. Many of the small cheap Inverters such as the cigarette lighter powered units are MSW. Hey its a persons own free choice and there can be different opinions on this one, I would get a PSW but if others prefer MSW that's their own business lol BUT HIS MACHINE DESIGN AND SPECS (I don't have) ARE REQUIRED FOR A MORE ACCURATE ANSWER. The pressure, heat and humidity settings on a CPAP are adjustable, my Doctor provided my initial figures but over time based on experience and comfort adjustments were made. Obviously if the environment was colder or dryer it may take more energy to bring the machines output up??? John T
  12. I have used a CPAP nightly in my RV successfully for over a couple years so I will offer these suggestions: 1) The ENERGY (Amps X Volts X Time) required for MY Resmed CPAP on a typical night , which is subject to time of use, temperature, humidity and pressure settings, yours may be different, is around 25 Amp Hours used from my 12 Volt AGM battery bank over a typical night. A Kill A Watt meter can provide that information 2) If you can get a straight 12 VDC powered CPAP you will save the I Squared R Heat energy conversion losses VERSUS if you have a 120 VAC powered unit and have to use an Inverter which changes the 12 VDC from your batteries into 120 VAC to power a 120 volt CPAP. 3) If you rely upon or install (or use an existing) a 12 Volt DC Cigarette Lighter type of Power Outlet to run EITHER a straight 12 VDC CPAP orrrrrrrrr a small 12 VDC to 120 VAC Inverter sufficiently rated to power your 120 Volt CPAP, THE POWER OUTLET AND ITS WIRING NEEDS TO BE SUFFICIENTLY RATED. I have seen them in 100 Watts or 200 Watts or larger BUT NOTE ANY 12 VDC POWER OUTLET AND ITS WIRING MUST BE ADEQUATELY RATED TO POWER THE LOAD. 4) If possible to save valuable battery stored energy overnight energy I suggest use of a 12 VDC CPAP iffffffffffff available. HOWEVER if you use a 120 VAC CPAP then you need an adequate rated 12 VDC to120VAC Inverter (100, 200, 400, or however many watts ????? your machine requires) to change your 12 VDC battery power into 120 VAC to power your unit. 5) You say you have two 12 Volt batteries: I have no idea of their total Amp Hour Energy Storage Capacity (maybe 160 maybe 200 maybe more maybe less rated Amp Hours ???) but if they are wet flooded lead acid or AGM it's best to not draw them down over 50% of their rated capacity meaning you may only have available 80 or 100 or more or less Amp Hours you could use overnight to power your CPAP SUBJECT TO THEIR SOC WHEN YOU WENT TO BED AND OTHER OVERNIGHT LOADS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Talkin dry camping here !! 6) To determine how much ENERGY (Volts x Amps x Time) your CPAP requires overnight you could use a Kill A Watt Meter and again it depends on time of use, temperature, humidity and pressure. Mine takes 25 Amp Hours from my 12 VDC battery bank on a typical night, yours may be far different. 7) Its "possible" your two batteries might power your CPAP overnight and NOT reduce your batteries over 50% of their capacity HOWEVER that depends on your CPAP, 12 VDC or 120 VAC plus Inverter, your batteries SOC when you went to bed (hopefully near 100%) ,,,,,,,other overnight loads like fans or furnaces or water pump etc etc , AND DONT FORGET YOU NEED TO RECHARGE THEM THE NEXT DAY You ask "so how do some of you power your machine? I’ve got two 12 volt house batteries thanks for any help" ANSWER When dry camped I use a 12 VDC to 120 VAC Inverter powered from my AGM battery bank. A 12 VDC CPAP (if available) would be more efficient and eliminate any need for an Inverter. DO NOT discharge your FLA or AGM batteries over 50%. runs my CPAP If plugged to shore power no problem the 120 VAC outlets in the RV powers my CPAP For dry camping not plugged to shore power, YOU NEED TO DETERMINE YOUR CPAP ENERGY REQUIREMENTS THEN YOU CAN LOOK AT YOUR BATTERY CAPACITY AND OTHER LOADS AND HOW TO RECHARGE ETC TO FIGURE THIS ALL OUT. Similar you need to look at any Inverter rating you need as well as any necessary 12 VDC circuit and 12 Volt Power Outlet if needed ratings. Best wishes let us know what happens and post back any questions John T
  13. Same here Kirk, Ive experienced RFI, but like you NEVER with an RV refrigerator and I've had them in the same building close to welders, compressors, HDI and fluorescent lighting........... Take care now fun chatting John T
  14. Hey Wrknrvr, Indeed what AC gets through the rectified 12 Volt DC supply system (which powers the fridge 12 Volt electronic circuit board) depends on the quality and filtering capacity of the Converter/Charger when plugged to shore power. A good quality charger likely has less ripple and improved filtering versus a cheaper unit. Poor quality DC (along with any unwanted AC) getting into his system may be a cause (if its circuit board related) of his problem as well as RFI from a shop located 50 feet away with nothing running which I tend to doubt, even though sure possible. NEVER SAY NEVER !!!!!!!!!!!!! Of course, if he is hooked to an independent battery NOT connected to his RV charger and the problem goes away but re occurs if connected to shore power, then the quality of the AC source,,,,,,,,,, or his Converter/Charger,,,,,,,,,,, or RFI comes more into suspicion. Even if the fridge were running on AC, the 12 volt DC powered electronic control board is still subject to the 12 VDC quality while on LP Gas it is likewise. Not being there we cant diagnose his problem over the net, but a faulty circuit control board,,,,,,,,,,, or a faulty Converter/Charger,,,,,,,,,,,,, or an AC power problem,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, or yes even RFI which I doubt, OR IT MAY HAVE ONLY BEEN A CONNECTION OR GROUND OR LOW VOLTAGE PROBLEM Darn if I know sitting here lol Its fun and a pleasure sparky chatting with all you gentlemen, thanks and God Bless John T Longggggggggg retired but ever curious Electrical Engineer
  15. Hey good neighbor, I would say that's "possible" there are certain electronic components or devices out there which a simple power down and re set may cure, I just cant say if his control boards is one of them?? However a voltage or connection or ground or DC supply issue is also a possibility, hard to say from here..I'm headed out again soon are you ??? John T
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