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About oldjohnt

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    RV Travel, Antique Tractor Shows, Bluegrass Festivals, Snowbirding

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  1. Sir, thanks for the update that helps. 1) If your flooded lead acid batteries are often boiling over electrolyte, there's a chance (in addition to a bad battery) you have an older cheaper more like constant voltage Converter/Charger and left unattended for extended periods they have been known to overcharge and damage batteries. A modern so called "Smart Charger" is better and it wont overcharge plus do a better job using 3 or 4 stage charging parameters 2) You need to check the levels on a regular basis and if they are often low or often overflowing the battery is likely BAD and
  2. Sir, I may have mentioned this before, but its possible for your battery to pass each and every cells Hydrometer test,,,,,,,To pass the full charged voltage level test,,,,,BUT STILL MISERABLY FAIL A LOAD TEST and/or be lacking in energy storage capacity due to age or abuse or sulfation on the plates. Its energy storage capacity in Amp Hours you're looking for in an RV battery application. If the batteries are getting old especially if they are NOT full true Deep Cycles or haven't been well maintained or abused like over charged or undercharged (possible with an older non smart non staged char
  3. Mark, I made my own cable and connectors from the RV to my toad, here are some considerations that are critical. 1) Is the RV a so called Three Wire (Left Turn & Stop, Right Turn & Stop, Tail/Marker) orrrrrrrrr a so called Four Wire (Left Turn, Right Turn, Stop, Tail/Marker) with separate (often amber) turn signals, NOT combo Turn & Stop 2) Is the Jeep (as I suspect) a Four Wire or an older style Three Wire with combo turn and brake lights ??? 3) They make 3 to 4 wire solid state black box adapters and they make 4 to 3 wire adapters IF needed. 5) What I had to
  4. Sir, I doubt the batteries were overcharged but not being there or unsure of your equipment I cant say from here . I can say a full charged lead acid battery AT REST AND STABILIZED at 77 degrees would be 12.63 volts, I suspect you may not have allowed enough rest time (no loads no charging) prior to taking your reading. The Hydrometer readings need to be taken IN EACH AND EVERY INDIVIDUAL CELL and look for perhaps a single bad cell with a far different reading and/or ONE of the cells having a different off color or gray or milky appearance indicative of a BAD CELL. As I noted abo
  5. Thanks again, when I have used that method one of us stays behind long enough to insure BOTH latch, good idea in my opinion. Best wishes John T
  6. FOLLOW UP QUESTION for Kirk and Neighbor Ray, Do you practice or find it necessary for say your co pilot to stay behind and watch to insure BOTH latches rise up and lock as you slowly drive a way a small but sufficient distance ?? I kinda like that idea even if unnecessary........... Thanks guys for your help John T
  7. Big Thanks Kirk, indeed the arms are seldom the same in which case I had to turn the wheels sharp to latch the second arm and Im gonna start using Number 2 exclusively yayyyyyyyyyy the wife will be happier also Take care best wishes hope you're okay there in Texas John T
  8. So, I have a Blue Ox Tow Hitch (bought used no manual) and have seen, done, and read about two different final connection methods, all of which "work" 1) After all is connected, back the toad up very slowly and slightly just until both latches raise up locked... 2) After all is connected, drive the RV slowly and slightly until both latches raise up locked.... What procedure do yall use and why?? John T Never too old to learn Live free dry camped in 80 degree weather Northwest of Okeechobee Florida, Lake Istokpoga Canal Boat Ramp
  9. YES I would disconnect each from the other just to be safe and (see above) have them at rest and stabilized with no loads or no charging for at least 20 to 30 minutes John T
  10. Sir, great question, here's my take: Wellllllllll if you are using ONLY a voltmeter and hydrometer you can arrive at a good indication of the batteries state of charge including each and every individual cell (hydrometer) which is great and useful information. HOWEVER once that's determined it would take a "Load Test" (can buy a load tester not too expensive) to determine the battery energy storage and delivery capacity, and that in addition to the SOC, is what's really important if you need to use stored battery energy for dry camping IE a battery can show full charged in each cell
  11. Heres why: The Safety Equipment GroundING Conductor is a dedicated low resistance return path designed to carry FAULT CURRENT ONLY. Its designed to NEVER carry normal current, that's the job of the Neutral GrounDED conductor described below The GrounDED Conductor aka Neutral is designed to carry all normal return current. The Neutral Conductor is insulated as its a HOT live current carrier UNLIKE the often bare Equipment GroundING Conductor which can be attached to the outer metallic conductive case/frame of a tool or appliance which you touch. YES once the Neutral Grou
  12. 1) "My 200 amp box is common ground and neutral" Thats what I would expect and is code proper when I last practiced, that's your Neutral Ground Bond creation........of which there should BE ONLY ONE alls well so far 2) "A bare copper about #8 goes to a 5/8" copper rod in ground" That's connection of the Neutral to a "Made Grounding Electrode" (Grounding NOT Bonding), fine and expected other then I uses a soft bare copper # 4 conductor NOT No 8. 3) "So being it is common a #4/0 neutral is all that is needed but is it legal?" WHATS LEGAL IS RUNNING A SEPARATE GROUNDE
  13. When I last practiced Power Distribution Engineering THAT WAS NEVER DONE but I'm not up on the latest codes so NO warranty. AFTER the ONE and ONLY permissible NG Bond (at the first disconnect) for 120/240 Volt Single Phase Three Wire service you would carry FOUR WIRES.........Two UNgrounDED Conductors L1 & L2,,,,,,,,,,,,One GrounDED Conductor (aka Neutral),,,, One Safety Equipment GroundING Conductor. Then any later sub panels be it an RV or whatever, The Neutral Buss and Equipment GroundING Buss are kept separate insulated and isolated from each other. Its not that hard and requ
  14. Glenn, its been a while since I retired as a Power Distribution Design Engineer and I'm rusty on the latest codes, but when I practiced THERE COULD ONLY BE ONE NEUTRAL GROUND BOND. That's why in an RV panel, just like other sub panels fed off the main panel, THE EQUIPMENT GROUND BUSS AND NEUTRAL BUSS ARE SEPERATE INSULATED AND ISOLATED from each other. If the single Neutral Ground Bond has already been created (like at the main or other first disconnect) DO NOT bond them again later downstream. All return current is to be carried by the Neutral conductor NOTTTTTTTT the equipment GroundING Cond
  15. Ive owned a ton of Class C's over the past 49 years of RVing and seldom experienced that problem. My best guesses of the cause not being there are a kinked or too sharp bent or somehow otherwise restricted fill hose or else a kinked or clogged or improperly routed or collapsed vent hose. Take a good look at both and insure there are no over sharp bends or kinks or any collapsed hoses?? John T Live from the RV near Avon Park Florida nice n warmmmmmmmmmmm
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