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oldjohnt

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About oldjohnt

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    Male
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    Indiana
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    RV Travel, Antique Tractor Shows, Bluegrass Festivals, Snowbirding

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  1. Hey Randy, that makes TWO of us lol When I practiced power distribution I never liked to operate near the edge and sized conductors accordingly IE over safe and conservative AND THATS ME ALSO..As you but some non sparkies may not realize is, ampacity limits (and the type rules you spoke of) are in part to protect the integrity of the insulation such that it doesn't overheat and degrade....The ampacity of single conductors in free air is typically higher then if enclosed in say conduit (how many and what size etc) which is related to the ability to dissipate heat... A conductor (say from a sola
  2. Glenn, just a FYI in case you didn't already know or perhaps maybe help others: 1) Some gensets come from the factory with a BONDED Neutral 2) Some gensets come from the factory with a FLOATING Neutral 3) Its possible to have a straight 240 VAC only device with NO Neutral. 4) Its possible and easy to create a Bonded Neutral if it came Floating 5) Which (Bonded or Floating) should be used depends on how and where its used and how transfer/switching takes place PRIMARILY BASED ON THE PRINCIPLE OF SINGLE POINT GROUNDING IE THERE SHOULD BE ONLY ONE BOND.... 6) Typica
  3. Safari, if you replaced the board with a Dinosaur brand FWIW Ive never had any of those go bad???? Typically the fridge has a 120 VAC power cord that plugs into a receptacle and from what you posted thats okay?? In order to get 120 VAC to power the elec resistive heating element the 120 is present, any eyebrow (it needs good DC voltage also plus is working right) or other control switches have power are working and are set properly, in which case the boards relay (if working and it and the eyebrow panel are supplied adequate DC voltage and set correctly for 120 VAC operation) should close
  4. I think I would remove the metal shield to gain access to the burner to clean and inspect it (they can get clogged). Then for no more then they cost Id at least consider purchase (versus just cleaning, but if alls well sure use it ) a new ignitor tip and flame sensor (or however the assembly comes for your unit). For gas operation typically there's no 120 VAC present, any eyebrow or other Gas/Elec switches set correctly, the gas valve opens and the ignitor tip starts firing a spark and if she lights and the flame sensor circuitry senses flame it remains lit, otherwise the gas valve closes. Loo
  5. Glenn, you will most likely be fine. The thing is if you consider a wire exposed to sunlight (not in a house etc) in bright sunny high temp conditions, such affects its heat dissipation which is the theory behind the 125% type rules. John T
  6. Sorry Kirk, I couldn't get the link/pic posted above to come up ??? Looks like you since edited/corrected that, thanks... However, it's NOT the picture I was correcting...The other pic you posted way up higher indicates THREE (not 2) wiring terminals, being Hot Neutral and Ground. The "However FYI" I posted was ONLY to help (you as well as others) and correct YOUR previous statement, I wasn't talking about the picture, but ONLY what you posted as quoted below: "The last outlet will have only 2 wires (1 black & 1 white) "plus a bare ground wire." ???????? Looks like
  7. Obviously you need 120 on the LINE INPUT and the fact that you also have 120 on the LOAD OUTPUT says the GFCI isn't tripped at least (assuming its working correctly ????). If its LINE INPUT, its receptacles are working, and there's 120 on the LOAD output, so far at least so good............. Then as I posted above keep going one by one at each receptacle on the branch circuit served from the LOAD side of the first GFCI UNTIL you perhaps find a loose/burned/resistive connection whereby other receptacles aren't working even if you measure 120 on them SEE NEXT PARAGRAPH NOTE HOWEVER
  8. Glenn, there's a difference in an Autotransformer versus an Isolation Transformer and Im not sure what product or device (transformers or Inverters) you're using, what it is, and how it operates so cant answer your question absent further detail and a wiring diagram. The 120/240 Volt Single Phase Three Wire utility service such as available in an RV parks power pedestal can be replicated with an Isolation Transformer (makes a new Neutral) with the same 120/240 Single Phase Three Wire output.. I need the details and wiring diagram of whatever "transformer" or "Inverter" you're talking about ..
  9. While MY observations are based strictly on the time of year (suns location in the sky) and sunlight intensity and angle to panels NO I haven't seen full rated Vmp, but I have no doubt under better conditions it could indeed reach that.. Once you size the wiring from panels down to your solar charge controller and arrive at the absolute minimum THE NEXT STEP is to compute the line voltage drop (its based on Current, Wire Size and Distance) and if needed increase wire size even bigger to further reduce voltage drop John T
  10. Happy, typically and if alls correct, working and wired right, the GFCI receptacle protects devices plugged directly into it PLUS any standard downstream Non GFCI receptacles fed off its LOAD side terminals such as in kitchens, bathrooms or outdoor receptacles. Just like any other receptacle branch circuits, GFCI or not, they are daisy chained together so a few are fed off a common branch circuit downstream of one another HOWEVER a bad or loose or broken connection anywhere in that circuit (GFCI or not) kills any and all receptacles after and and downstream. If the label is correct ?????
  11. Since Voc is with no load and applying a load typically drops the voltage and the highest you will see is Vmp, that's the number Id be concerned with when sizing the controller. Ive NEVER gotten the power a panel is rated at since bright sunlight is seldom direct overhead (flat roof panels) . If you run higher voltage up top (via series or series parallel connections) that's less current and less possible line voltage drop (subject to current, wire size and distance) so I like higher net array voltages provided the controller handles it.......... John T
  12. Hi Tim & Peggy, welcome, FYI In order that the genset power up your RV with 120 Volts: 1) The genset must start, run (you heard that must be okay) and be producing adequate power and voltage. 2) The gensets output circuit breaker must be closed, not tripped and working properly. 3) EITHER an automatic Transfer Switch (if so equipped in your RV, many are) must be working and toggled/switched once it receives adequate genset voltage orrrrrrrrr the RV power cord is manually plugged into a genny output receptacle often located in the power cord storage box WHICH DO YOU HAVE ???
  13. FIRST purchasing a "portable power inverter" is fine and yes they work OTHER THEN how much energy does its internal battery store ?? Is it enough to run the fridge very long (probably NOT much) JP, a power station is nothing more then a battery but coupled with say USB or 12 VDC outputs plus a built in Inverter so you have 120 VAC also HOWEVER its the total Amp Hours of energy storage you need to power a fridge for x amount if time and many of them just aren't all that big as far as Amp Hours of energy storage or the Inverters power rating. Again to run that fridge via battery and inver
  14. Sweet set up Chad, I don't require that much energy myself in our small unit and don't have space for more panels anyway, but if I needed more power Id sure be buying some of those !!!!!!!!!!!! Congratulations on your system John T
  15. JP, I like to power my RV fridge with 120 VAC when possible to preserve propane, plus I feel safer not using propane when driving. So lets do a bit of engineering and look at the numbers. 1) For an easy example lets just use 300 Watts (2.5 Amps) at 120 Volts to power the fridge (when its drawing power of course). To get that via an Inverter I use around 11 to 1 to account for inefficiency and heat losses, so the battery would have to supply around 11 x 2.5 or 27.5 amps which equals 330 Watts. 2) Some of those lighter duty 12 Volt Power Outlet cigarette lighter type are only rated at
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