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    RV Travel, Antique Tractor Shows, Bluegrass Festivals, Snowbirding

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oldjohnt's Achievements

  1. Ive towed a Honda CRV 4WD auto tranny all over the USA flat four down. My owners manual stated to place it in DRIVE then shift to NEUTRAL then tow. Never had a problem. Also when I stop for a rest break every 2 or 3 hours I start it and run through the gears to run some fluid then again Drive then Neutral HOWEVER CHECK YOUR MANUAL AND DO AS IT SAYS NOT ANY OF US LOL John T
  2. Glen, I'm basically with Randy's great advice on this one. Not having any specifics I will ONLY say in general many of those lighter duty crimp on ring and spade terminals ARE NOWHERE NEAR THE CURRENT CAPACITY of heavier copper usually 1/4 to 5/16 or even 3/8 sizes. The often used YELLOW take up to 10 Gauge wire I believe while the heavy copper terminals may take 8 or 6 or even 4 or larger cable. HOWEVER the problem is there may not be enough room or space to use those heavy terminals grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Resistive voltage dropping heat and carbon producing connections and terminals are sooooooooooo often a problem. John T
  3. Thanks for the feedback so alls well now ?? John T
  4. Zulu, No I have NOT installed one of the 12 VDC Compressor units, maybe some fine gent here has ???? They interest me due to their improved efficiency, safety and convenience should my RV fridge ever crap out, so I have followed the reviews.. HOWEVER if a person boondocks often and opted for a 12 VDC fridge, they need adequate battery and solar or other recharge methods, which I already have. Only you know your needs, budget and abilities, good luck on your decision, sorry, no other help from me. John T
  5. Zulu good questions, here are a few You Tube videos addressing cooling unit changeovers, both with traditional RV Gas/Electric as well as converting to 12 Volt, plus a good vendor, Cooling Unit Warehouse, check them out hope this helps RV Cooling Unit Change out - YouTube RV Refrigerator Full Cooling Unit Replacement Tips & Tricks - YouTube RV Cooling Unit Warehouse Converting our RV Fridge to a High Efficiency DC Compressor- 8x More Efficient! and Better Cooling! - YouTube John T
  6. Glenn, sorry this is NOT an answer to your question, more of a rant forgive me lol. That being said, the more bells n whistles and goodies gizmos and gadgets in an RV THE MORE TO GO WRONG grrrrrrrrrrrrr. Sooooooooo often auto leveling jacks or slide outs or elec awnings fail grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. While side walls and structural integrity and roofs may vary based on cost and quality of one RV versus another, even if you buy a more expensive unit it still has similar appliances and automatic devices THAT STILL GO BAD EVEN IN HIGH END RV'S... If I were young and just starting Id buy a Blue Bird Wanderlodge with no slides or an old Flxible Bus and do my own build........ FWIW Yes check the fluid level !!!!!!!!!!!! Best wishes everyone take care now John T Headed out soon for National Parks, Lots of Boondocking, California to Texas, then Florida for the winters antique tractor shows and bluegrass festivals yayyyyyyyyyyyyy
  7. Randy, Ive seen MC4 failures including ones that seem to have melted either from exposure to direct sunlight ?? or excess current ?? I'm NOT a huge fan of them unprotected on a roof. I have used direct burial rated wire nut splices inside a waterproof junction box which I prefer, but hey that's just me. John T Also retired and love it
  8. Yo Glenn, you sure come up with some good electrical related questions !!! In order to properly size the wire, here's the process I used per NEC recommendations at the time I practiced power distribution. Compute the MAXIMUM Continuous Current,,,,,,,,,,,Size the conductors to have a MINIMUM Ampacity of 125% of the MCC,,,,,,,,,,,Knowing the current, wire size and distance, compute the Line Voltage Drop and if in excess upgrade the wire size EASY PEASEY If lights dim (subject to what and where they are fed from) there's excess Voltage drop caused by: A) Battery capacity is inadequate (I doubt that one in you case lol) Theres excess Line Voltage drop b) Your DC to DC Converter is inadequate (I Doubt that also) Questions 1) How many watts is it rated?? 2) Whats the max full load current of your slide motors ?? 3) What is the size of wire running to the slide motors?? OOps you said 4 Gauge that sounds plenty c) There's excess Line Voltage Drop due to undersized conductor (I doubt that also) d) The dimming lights are fed too close to where the slide motors are wired e) The distances and limit switches and adjustments are incorrect allowing for current draw for some even if slight time even after the motors can no longer turn (near end of travel) SEE BELOW I also suspect the limit switches and mechanisms by which the motors continue to draw excess current even that of LOCKED ROTOR when they approach or reach their outer limit, yet still for some time are under power WHICH CAUSES EXTREME HIGH CURRENT and low voltage dimming lights EVEN IF ALL ELSE IS FINE ?????? While my possible reasons listed above remain valid, I suspect the limit switches and mechanical/physical considerations and/or adjustments that force the motor into lock up while still drawing current NOW THAT CAN DIM THE LIGHTS even if all else is okay Your distribution system/capacity and master buss and how and to where everything is wired all comes into play here. Id say the motors alone don't draw excess current but how and when/where they are switched and all those end adjustments and limits are causing high current near the end of travel ............ Im NOT any slide out or DC to DC expert, I have no specs or data, and am rusty on the latest NEC, so NO Warranty, see what the other fine gents with experience related to your specific questions have to say !! Check the adjustments and max distances and limit switches relays etc that control current to those motors THATS MY BEST PURE GUESS, I DOUBT YOUR 4 GAUGE WIRE IS INADEQUATE OR THE PROBLEM !!!!!!!!!!!! PS When my slides are at the end of their extension the "slip clutch mechanism" or whatever it is will chatter skip skip skip and that's when I know to release the switch which I try at the very first sign, maybe your drive mechanism or slip clutch mechanism needs adjusted so it prevents locked rotor condition extreme high current ??? Im runnin out of ideas here and grasping at straws, is it a mechanical or electrical issue? Im thinking a mechanical or adjustment problem causing the high current..... John T
  9. AMEN to that regardless of what store or what products or parts grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr John T
  10. George CONGRATULATIONS on fixing it yourself you did good. AFTER the standard voltage and ground and connection checks if my Ignitor Tip isn't producing a spark to ignite the flame (tic tic tic spark spark spark) I use a jumper wire attached to the HV coil/transformer on the circuit board (which has small HV wire to Ignitor Tip) to see if it will throw a spark to ground ?? That way I determine if its a control board or an Ignitor Tip issue (I see more of those than bad circuit boards). Next regarding the gas valve opening, usually by placing your hand on it and/or just listening you can hear or feel if it opens and if not first check for voltage getting to the coil/solenoid and if so then second check it for continuity to see if the coil is bad/open. Fun story thanks for sharing John T
  11. Hey there Glenn, Ive owned all sorts of RV's (was a used RV dealer in the past) over 50 years and saw many many with unheated storage areas. But hey if they are heated that's great for Lithiums.. John T
  12. My Lithiums have low temp charging protection in the BMS (I guess I can call them self healing lol) but no self contained heaters to warm them if too cold. I believe a few manufacturers offer that option now. I have heard of people installing them over low energy dog warmer pads or other low energy heaters for small livestock or of course in a heated enclosure. Regardless, as a frequent moderate energy use boondocker and after a 50 year progression from RV/Marine to Golf Cart to AGM I chose Lithium and am well satisfied and never looking back, but in the future with the advance of Solid State Batteries our current Lithiums will be outdated grrrrrrrrrrr lol Best wishes everyone fun thread for us sparkies John T
  13. Many reputable even decent quality Lithium Batteries already have a built in BMS to prevent charging at low temps plus prevent overcharging and all other sorts of protections. To me the term "self healing" may be a bit of hyperbole. If you look at Will Prowse on DIY Solar on You Tube he has tested for capacity as well as low temp and other BMS functions on different brands. One brand spends a lot on advertising and marketing while others who spend less offer a quality product (maybe as good as, maybe better, maybe worse) as well, there are lots of players out there, shop around and do your research for what best suits YOUR needs and budget BUT MAKE SURE IT HAS A QUALITY BMS (to self heal lol). ALSO make sure any charger used (Solar or AC power) is well suited for specific Lithium charging... John T NOT any Lithium "expert" if any exist see what they have to say
  14. That's a case (hooked on 30 amps) where addition of a Soft Start on AC's can help and get you by. Good old 48 to 12 DC to DC use John T
  15. Glenn, this in ONLY food for thought and an OPTION (Im NOT recommending it)........Since an RV rooftop AC (or even a 120 Volt mini split AC) will likely run off a 3000 Watt 120 Volt Inverter and if you had say two of them (front and rear) you could (sure that's work but doable) rewire and configure your wiring to power one AC from one Inverter, A,,,,,,Another AC from a different Inverter B,,,,,,,Use the third Inverter C to power all else. Far as I know those Inverters can be synced so you can parallel two or more but the Neutral conductor in your RV power cord (unless you modify) can only handle 50 amps. A 50 Amp RV when plugged into a true 120/240 Volt Single Phase Three Wire service pedestal can draw up to 12,000 watts and it would be sooooooooooo much simpler to use a SINGLE say 10,000 to 12,000 Watt true 120/240 Inverter if such is available ???? As you already know you can use a dry transformer to obtain 240 (if you need it ???) from 120 or 120 from 240.. Are you building an RV that requires MORE then 12,000 watts ?? Homes can run on less Don't forget to create a proper Neutral Ground Bond on the Inverter since your RV panel has none. John T
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