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About Daveh

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  • Birthday 10/02/1958

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    Grand Rapids, Mi
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    Nature, hiking, photography, history

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  1. Yes. I agree with John on all of the above. I came out on the other side of whether to increase solar panel to 48 v but I could be very easily convinced to go that direction depending on my roof layout and if I frequented parts of the country were partial shading was more of an issue. (I bypassed the factory prewire and ran 2 awg wire from my roof to controller or I am sure I would be in a 48 volt configuration I asked about your inverter/charger because I consider that an extremely i,important component. Maybe more important than the batteries. To really see the benefit, power and flexibility of that battery bank you should be looking at the Magnum Hybrid series or the Victron Multiplus hybrid line.
  2. Yes, that will work. You run the voltage from the panels to the mppt charge controller and then 12 volt out to the 12 volts system of the motorhome and to charge the batteries. I assume you also have an inverter that runs off 12 volt. The size if the charge controller will not be maxed out because the rating is based on the output amps which for 12 volt will be twice has high as if it was running a 24 volt. If you switched to a 24 volt battery though that would require you to also have a 24 volt inverter and a downconverter to change the 24 volt to 12 volts to run your 12 volt system. You could also run two or more of you solar panels in series to get a higher voltage down to the controller. For instance 2 24 volt panels in series would be the same as one 48 volt panel. You would then run other pairs of 24 volt panels in parallel to get a 48 volt system. Although higher voltage achieved by running panels in series makes the wire run to the charge controller more efficient it has the downside that if one panel in a series of panels gets shade it will take down the output of all panels in that series. For that reason I think your proposal of running 24 volt panels wired in parallel down to the charge controller is a good idea. The Victron is a good choice as long as battleborn tells you it is appropriate for their recommended charge settings. Do you know what inverter charger is running in your motorhome and whether battleborn is good with that charger. I do not know about Victron's isolator but I would imagine your motorhome already isolates the starter battery from the others. I own only a fifht home so I will defer to others on that topic. I think the best resource for you right now would be Jack Mayer's website on RV Solar. He still stops by here now and then. Reading through that a few times makes all of this terminology less mysterious. I used to be unsure of Battleborns since they were new to the market and I had built my own lithium pack. However numerous reviews plus Will Prowse cutting one open on You Tube has made me a believer. http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm
  3. Hmmm My notifications got messed up I guess. I did not see these. RPsinc what is your source for these hoses. I like your idea.
  4. Right if you go with something like that the problem becomes much more manageable and that would be a great solution. The living space desired really drives the answer.
  5. If you are starting from the "ground up" as you say I would, obviously, buy a van with a good air conditioner system. One of the problems is that RV AC are not that great. If you are getting just a small unit, then a single or double AC unit may be fine, but in a larger unit you will need at the very least a double unit and that puts a big draw on the electric. If we knew some of the specifics like the size you were thinking of and the items Kirk asked about we could give you better advice. Many of us are either adding or changing our our typical RV AC units as they are much more efficient. The other thing I would add to John's advice is that if you look at the gas generators I kind of like the option of two 2000 watt inverter generators. I am thinking of the Honda's. You can use them seperately or they can be paired into a 4000. That way they are easier to move around and when you don't need to go all out you can use just one of them. Another thing I would consider is that (again depending on the number of ac units), I would add a lithium battery bank and a good hybrid inverter such as made by Magnum or Victron. The benefit of a hybrid unit is that it can supplement the generator with power from the battery system at peak draws. As John mentioned ACs cause problems when the compressor kicks on and it is at these points the power generally fails. The batteries could also then serve as a backup should a generator fail but that will require a larger bank and you would only get a few hours. That would be a high risk, to dogs and batteries situation, and you would want to avoid it. The other possible component is to add solar which could charge the batteries and wit a larger battery bank prevent you from operating the generator 24/7. Operating ACs off of solar is not a reasonable solution in very every circumstance but it can be a nice supplement. Are you going to be with your dogs all the time? If not I would really design my system to have backups and some type of alert. There are products sold that will provide you texts or the like if the temp gets to high. Soooo, tell us the size unit you are thinking of and we can give better assistance. The first line of response for sure is buy a unit with a built in generator or get one or two gas powered inverter generator. You don't necessarily need to by one of the Honda EU series but I would start by looking up the Honda EU2000 and 3000. That is generally the reference standard for any inverter generator. If you want to know more about the Rv electrical systems work in general I have always liked Jack Mayers site. It tells you how all the pieces fit together. http://www.jackdanmayer.com/rv_electrical_and_solar.htm
  6. There were already airgaps toward the back of the compartment where the legs go through and for right now I am just leaving the front compartment door open all the time. Runs efficiently. For when we hit the road my primary plan is to install an approximately 20" x 20" inch aluminum register/grate into the front cabinet door that I can close to prevent airflow while moving. If I lose efficiency my additional plan is to cut into the cabinet floor and possibly also adjacent to the grate/register on the cabinet front and installl duct or booster fans to enhance the airflow. If I need those I will need to figure out how I can trigger them coming on automatically with the fan of the outdoor unit. Some type of relay set up. I am hoping I don't need to get into that.
  7. I came really really close to using randy's location. Honestly I was still going back and forth until the day I began installation. My wife has a standup desk at the back of the fifth wheel and I decided that putting the IDU there would just be too cold for her. I ended up putting it above our entrance door and then running the line along the outside to our front generator space which locates the outdoor unit.
  8. "I really want to go to AZ and experience that. Everyone tells me though that the low humidity makes it bearable. Half the battle is removing humidity when cooling. " Still feels hot but not that suffocating clammy feeling and your not drenched in sweat when doing things outside. Much more tolerable than the Michigan summer heat I am used too but get me up around 95 or above and I am in the AC. Hot is hot.
  9. We were not planning on being in Arizona this summer but due the Covid we have stayed in place. I have a 12000 btu 120 volt minisplit. I assume it is not at maximum efficiency as I was unable to complete the install as my line set ended up two feet short for my desired location and I was forced to put the outdoor unit and the lineset in a position that is fully exposed to the Arizona sun. I hope to complete the install this week but that means taking the AC offline for a few hours and it is really hot. We have had quite a few days where the actual temperature is between 103 and 105. We are at about 3700 feet elevation so most of the highs are in the high 90's. This minisplit is soooo quiet and easily outperfroms the Dometic 15k. Our unit will stay at 75 or below unless the temp gets over 95. The it will start creeping up and if it gets to 79, we generally put on the Dometic and the both of them together handle things very easily. We have a 39 foot Arctic Fox fifth wheel with 3 slideouts. I am thinking of getting rid of the Dometic on the roof to use the space for Solar. In our normal fullltiming, which avoids temperature extremes, we would never use the Dometic. Oh, we are in direct sunlight. As soon as the sun goers down the minisplit will take the unit all the way down to 62.
  10. I have also looked at these. https://www.newpowa.com/collections/rigid-solar-panels/products/newpowa-200w-24v-monocrystalline-high-efficiency-solar-panel
  11. Hmmm. I was looking at those last night Glenn. Small world. Good price on used here. https://www.santansolar.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5vz2BRAtEiwAbcVIL9Jcdz-QhZzPWjRXJhLsWM48bZ4HobKssd7Zmy4y7SO0YSZKNGMRmhoCtpsQAvD_BwE
  12. Your ownership of property would just be one indicia of residency they look at multiple factors. If you are under 65 and expect to use the ACA to get health insurance then you need to be careful as to your residency/domicile as the price and avaialability varies greatly by state.
  13. Yes I would do an internet search focused on heavy duty drawer slides. Some of those are rated quite high for lbs. Things get really expensive when you start to look at specialized premade equipment focused just on slideouts. I wish I had your skills Glenn. By the way. I got my 12,000 btu miniswplit installed yesterday. I am in love.
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