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oldjohnt

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Everything posted by oldjohnt

  1. bibs, wise choice in taking to a qualified tech, Im sure he will fix the problem. WOW if something mechanical is is locking and preventing the engine from cranking over that's more serious than all the electrical related troubleshooting tips I posted for you above. Let me know what happens Best wishes, take care be safe, Happy Flag Day John T
  2. Bibs, do you know if the Onan gets its power from the engine starting battery orrrrrrrrr the house RV batteries ????????? Likely the house RV is my best guess not being there. Regardless, Ive seen what you describe caused by Low voltage,,,,,,,,,,Weak batteries,,,,,,,,,or SO OFTEN a loose/burned/resistive ground or other cable or battery connection MORE COMMON then a genset problem. Ive also seen genset starter SOLENOIDS go bad dropping excess voltage so she cant crank over, even if all else is fine !!!!!!!!!!!! QUESTIONS WHICH ANSWERS MAY HELP: 1) Does it make a difference
  3. I watch a lot of Will Prowse Videos on You Tube. If he has reviewed those batteries you may find out more about them, just saying that no more no less.. DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse - YouTube John T
  4. WOW Congratulations good job. Years ago I thought different, but with todays battery, charging options, solar and inverter technology (and especially ifffffffffff you are already equipped to power the fridge when off grid ??????????) and subject to how much and how long you may dry camp INCLUDING COST DIFFERENCE, A REPLACEMENT RESIDENTIAL FRIDGE SOUNDS MORE REASONABLE then it used to. If I ever had to replace my RV fridge Id take a hard look at one of the 12 VDC powered units. In addition to my adequate solar and battery power I might consider adding a DC to DC charger for driving lon
  5. Good catch, yep a leak in the suction INLET side of a fuel pump allowing the entrance of air can stop them while a leak in the pressure OUTPUT side can cause gas to leak. If rubber lines are old or cracked or checked or leaking of course they need replaced .......... John T
  6. Hey there Vern in your T Shirt, Good point. For sure if the 120 VAC heating element is good, has the correct resistance and is continuous, and you temporarily (be careful that's hot 120 VAC, called a man killer) hooked it direct to 120 VAC (limited reasonable time only) and wait n see, that's one way (you or I might but maybe NOT the OP) to tell if she will cool or not using AC ??????????? Of course don't backfeed 120 VAC to the boards control circuit !!!!!!!!!!! unhook that connection ... Dont allow (disable) the board or controls to try and operate the fridge automatically or on LP
  7. A short to Ground as most of us suspected was it CONGRATULATIONS on finding it, you did good John T
  8. Regardless of the time of year I run that "mixture" of 78% Nitrogen plus 21% Oxygen in my tires, its worked well for me ............Should be changed every 4000 miles right?????????????????? Don't you hate dirty old stale air........ John T
  9. Not Even, it sounds like you did a good job of troubleshooting. That right turn/stop circuit sparking and blowing a fuse is indicative of a short (to frame or the ground wire). Sure it takes patience but starting at the plug working your way back to the light looking at each and every connection, splice or junction box and where the wires are routed (open or inside conduit) should find the short. You're looking for bare wiring (stripped or burned insulation or sharp pinch etc.) allowing the circuit to come in contact with the frame ground or the ground wire conductor. No telling where the shor
  10. I just don't know what is meant by 2*1 but will guess its two No 1's in parallel ??? Regardless if you already have plenty of 2/0 as I already said I see no problem in using two of those in parallel even if that's overkill. Go for it John T
  11. Glenn FYI here is a wiring size chart for 12 24 and 48 Volt DC systems: Wire Sizing Chart for 12V, 24V & 48V DC Systems | DIY Solar Resources (altestore.com) Here are several other wire size charts, take your pick lol dc cable ampacity chart - Bing images AFTER you determine the ampacity, next compute line voltage drop (current, wire size and distance) Here is a voltage drop calculator Voltage Drop Calculator While I prefer single conductors, if you already have a bunch of 2/0 and can per code use two parallel conductors (390 Amp rated and even if OVERkill f
  12. I cant say what the noise was but keep it running and play with the settings you may luck out !!! Thanks for the feedback John T
  13. Pat & Pete, In the event my LP/Elec fridge ever crapped out (works fine) Id consider replacing it with a 12 Volt (versus 120 via an Inverter) RV size compressor unit as they are getting very efficient nowadays plus I already have adequate Solar and Battery to run it no problem. In 50 years of using RV LP/Elec fridges Ive learned keeping the burner assemblies, ignitor, chimney and venting all clean PLUS operating them level can make them run seems like indefinitely......... If the flames now adequate and the chimney and venting is all fine plus any thermostat control is correct, I q
  14. Hard to answer not being there or even if we were grrrrrrrrrrrrr Based on my experiences I tend to agree with Ray above, Iffffffffff it works fine ?? with the RV off level but NOT otherwise, I wonder if the fridge is level relative to the RV ?? Other thoughts are there are minor restrictions in the return such that a slight off level condition allows adequate return while perfect level does not????? I have seen them fail (even if now perfect level) after they were operated too far off level for too long of a time. This may be hard to answer over the net but we do the best we can
  15. If your replacement board just happens to be Dinosaur ?? I have got excellent tech support when I called them. You're probably gonna have to call the manufacturer Id hate to try and guess at it absent any specs or wiring diagrams etc. I have bought several replacement boards over the years, and a few involved such things as jumping a couple terminals together or removing a jumper or making minor modifications to suit my particular appliance BUT THOSE WERE ALL DONE ONLY AFTER CALLING FOR TECH SUPPORT AND/OR HAVING DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS Sorry I cant help one bit here in the dark without
  16. Glenn I have no idea of all the brands out there and not aware of any "standard". I can ONLY say of 4 or so brands Ive purchased they had about 3 feet of wire and that was plenty long enough to splice panel to panel provided they were located next to each other head to head with their boxes on the same ends........... I sometimes hard wired versus using MC4 connectors but that's just me. John T
  17. Congratulations Glenn, impressive amount of solar power, 10 x 430 = 4300 Watts woooooooo hooooooooooo. Ive seen entire homes in our area with similar amounts. On a given day, subject of course to suns intensity, angle to panels, and time, you might harvest 1300 + - Amp Hours of Energy daily. Provided you couple that much energy harvest with adequate battery energy storage capacity AND LARGE ENOUGH CONTROLLER CAPACITY (like over 300 charging amps into a 12 volt bank or over 150 into a 24 volt etc) PLUS adequate Inverter capacity (for an example ONLY, 4300 Watts of Solar changed into 120 Vol
  18. Bob & Barb, having owned RV's for 50 years (and was a used dealer a time) I well remember several years back the old style Converter/Chargers some with switches for Dry Camping or Shore power, but its been a long time since Ive seen them. I saw problems with some of them overcharging the battery as they functioned more like a constant voltage (say 13.5 or so) source as compared to todays modern 3 or 4 stage regulated (perhaps 13.2 to 14 or so volts staged regulated) so called Smart Chargers. For the sake of your batteries and their longevity and care I would upgrade to a modern regulated 3
  19. Hey Randy, that makes TWO of us lol When I practiced power distribution I never liked to operate near the edge and sized conductors accordingly IE over safe and conservative AND THATS ME ALSO..As you but some non sparkies may not realize is, ampacity limits (and the type rules you spoke of) are in part to protect the integrity of the insulation such that it doesn't overheat and degrade....The ampacity of single conductors in free air is typically higher then if enclosed in say conduit (how many and what size etc) which is related to the ability to dissipate heat... A conductor (say from a sola
  20. Glenn, just a FYI in case you didn't already know or perhaps maybe help others: 1) Some gensets come from the factory with a BONDED Neutral 2) Some gensets come from the factory with a FLOATING Neutral 3) Its possible to have a straight 240 VAC only device with NO Neutral. 4) Its possible and easy to create a Bonded Neutral if it came Floating 5) Which (Bonded or Floating) should be used depends on how and where its used and how transfer/switching takes place PRIMARILY BASED ON THE PRINCIPLE OF SINGLE POINT GROUNDING IE THERE SHOULD BE ONLY ONE BOND.... 6) Typica
  21. Safari, if you replaced the board with a Dinosaur brand FWIW Ive never had any of those go bad???? Typically the fridge has a 120 VAC power cord that plugs into a receptacle and from what you posted thats okay?? In order to get 120 VAC to power the elec resistive heating element the 120 is present, any eyebrow (it needs good DC voltage also plus is working right) or other control switches have power are working and are set properly, in which case the boards relay (if working and it and the eyebrow panel are supplied adequate DC voltage and set correctly for 120 VAC operation) should close
  22. I think I would remove the metal shield to gain access to the burner to clean and inspect it (they can get clogged). Then for no more then they cost Id at least consider purchase (versus just cleaning, but if alls well sure use it ) a new ignitor tip and flame sensor (or however the assembly comes for your unit). For gas operation typically there's no 120 VAC present, any eyebrow or other Gas/Elec switches set correctly, the gas valve opens and the ignitor tip starts firing a spark and if she lights and the flame sensor circuitry senses flame it remains lit, otherwise the gas valve closes. Loo
  23. Glenn, you will most likely be fine. The thing is if you consider a wire exposed to sunlight (not in a house etc) in bright sunny high temp conditions, such affects its heat dissipation which is the theory behind the 125% type rules. John T
  24. Sorry Kirk, I couldn't get the link/pic posted above to come up ??? Looks like you since edited/corrected that, thanks... However, it's NOT the picture I was correcting...The other pic you posted way up higher indicates THREE (not 2) wiring terminals, being Hot Neutral and Ground. The "However FYI" I posted was ONLY to help (you as well as others) and correct YOUR previous statement, I wasn't talking about the picture, but ONLY what you posted as quoted below: "The last outlet will have only 2 wires (1 black & 1 white) "plus a bare ground wire." ???????? Looks like
  25. Obviously you need 120 on the LINE INPUT and the fact that you also have 120 on the LOAD OUTPUT says the GFCI isn't tripped at least (assuming its working correctly ????). If its LINE INPUT, its receptacles are working, and there's 120 on the LOAD output, so far at least so good............. Then as I posted above keep going one by one at each receptacle on the branch circuit served from the LOAD side of the first GFCI UNTIL you perhaps find a loose/burned/resistive connection whereby other receptacles aren't working even if you measure 120 on them SEE NEXT PARAGRAPH NOTE HOWEVER
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