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Everything posted by oldjohnt

  1. Hey there Glenn, Ive owned all sorts of RV's (was a used RV dealer in the past) over 50 years and saw many many with unheated storage areas. But hey if they are heated that's great for Lithiums.. John T
  2. My Lithiums have low temp charging protection in the BMS (I guess I can call them self healing lol) but no self contained heaters to warm them if too cold. I believe a few manufacturers offer that option now. I have heard of people installing them over low energy dog warmer pads or other low energy heaters for small livestock or of course in a heated enclosure. Regardless, as a frequent moderate energy use boondocker and after a 50 year progression from RV/Marine to Golf Cart to AGM I chose Lithium and am well satisfied and never looking back, but in the future with the advance of Solid State Batteries our current Lithiums will be outdated grrrrrrrrrrr lol Best wishes everyone fun thread for us sparkies John T
  3. Many reputable even decent quality Lithium Batteries already have a built in BMS to prevent charging at low temps plus prevent overcharging and all other sorts of protections. To me the term "self healing" may be a bit of hyperbole. If you look at Will Prowse on DIY Solar on You Tube he has tested for capacity as well as low temp and other BMS functions on different brands. One brand spends a lot on advertising and marketing while others who spend less offer a quality product (maybe as good as, maybe better, maybe worse) as well, there are lots of players out there, shop around and do your research for what best suits YOUR needs and budget BUT MAKE SURE IT HAS A QUALITY BMS (to self heal lol). ALSO make sure any charger used (Solar or AC power) is well suited for specific Lithium charging... John T NOT any Lithium "expert" if any exist see what they have to say
  4. That's a case (hooked on 30 amps) where addition of a Soft Start on AC's can help and get you by. Good old 48 to 12 DC to DC use John T
  5. Glenn, this in ONLY food for thought and an OPTION (Im NOT recommending it)........Since an RV rooftop AC (or even a 120 Volt mini split AC) will likely run off a 3000 Watt 120 Volt Inverter and if you had say two of them (front and rear) you could (sure that's work but doable) rewire and configure your wiring to power one AC from one Inverter, A,,,,,,Another AC from a different Inverter B,,,,,,,Use the third Inverter C to power all else. Far as I know those Inverters can be synced so you can parallel two or more but the Neutral conductor in your RV power cord (unless you modify) can only handle 50 amps. A 50 Amp RV when plugged into a true 120/240 Volt Single Phase Three Wire service pedestal can draw up to 12,000 watts and it would be sooooooooooo much simpler to use a SINGLE say 10,000 to 12,000 Watt true 120/240 Inverter if such is available ???? As you already know you can use a dry transformer to obtain 240 (if you need it ???) from 120 or 120 from 240.. Are you building an RV that requires MORE then 12,000 watts ?? Homes can run on less Don't forget to create a proper Neutral Ground Bond on the Inverter since your RV panel has none. John T
  6. If its constantly blowing the 5 amp fuse (regardless if regular or slow blow) that protects and leads to the fridges 120 VAC heating element, I suspect its (or wiring from board to element) bad and/or shorted to the sheet metal where and into which its located. If you disconnect the elements wires an ohm meter should read an open circuit (approaching infinity ohms) between either side and the conductive case/frame case of the fridge.. If there's no shorts (wiring or heating element) and the fuse is fine, check the element for continuity terminal to terminal. The eyebrow panel (if so equipped) and/or the circuit control board and its relay is what controls and sends 120 VAC to the element (if on AC), if either is bad you wont get the 120 AC to the heating element and NO cooling As noted above the fridges rear plug needs connected to a good working live 120 VAC receptacle, that's any easy check. John T
  7. Hey Alloy, I bet you have a lot of friends that want to camp by you so they can plug in lol Hey I don't blame them sounds like you have an abundance of power, way to go !!!!!!!! According to Mobile Internet Resource Starlink just started launching more satellites but its gonna be a while before they are at capacity, have patience... Best wishes thanks for the updates John T
  8. That's about what I expected (absent any factory specs or data), thanks for verifying... John T
  9. Typically the 12 VDC output of a small portable genset is NOT extreme high amperage, its designed more for powering small 12 VDC tools and appliances at a fairly constant DC voltage then regulated staged "battery charging".. While sure it may provide some degree of charging, its nothing compared to how a modern regulated so called smart charger can properly charge a battery when using the genset to provide its 120 VAC input power. As far as how fast a battery can be charged, it depends on if you use an industrial shop type battery charger versus a staged regulated smart charger like many RV's use. If the distances are great trying to charge at 12 VDC direct may (subject to wire size and distance) result in excess line voltage drop verus if you use 120 VAC and extension cords. LIKE YOUR EXTENSION CORD IDEA a quality low noise inverter generator plus a charger located at the remote RV,,,,,,,,, or solar is my preferred method over a an open frame loud noisy screaming 3600 RPM construction genset grrrrrrrrr lol John T
  10. K5R WOW thanks for the update and detailed research you did it was YOUR decision what to buy, certainly none of ours CONGRATULATIONS ................ That 4500, assuming that's the true rating, should with no problem start and run your AC even without any after market Soft Start plus some limited whatever else (fridge or freezer etc) subject to their actual starting and running current...Time and trial will tell.... I think choosing an Inverter Genset was a wise choice.......Keep those fuel stabilizers and other preventive measures to keep the fuel fresh and prevent carb problems...........Dont forget to exercise the unit under load at recommended times...Use as big gauge (like 10 or 12) and short as possible extension cords to reduce line voltage drop....Use safe and appropriate connection and wiring methods.... God Bless, best wishes and good luck John T
  11. AMEN Neighbor Ray, manuals even call for doing that and in addition I use Sta Bil which can help. John T
  12. Thanks guys UPDATE. It was an easy decision ,,,,,,I chose vinyl because if I wanted cloth I would have had to change out the roller tube .......... John T
  13. K5 Great questions let me tackle them one at a time. 1) What power cord ? Since you state the genset has a 120 Volt 30 Amp NEMA TT-30 R outlet, a standard 10 gauge 3 Conductor (Hot Neutral Ground) 30 amp 120 Volt RV cord will suffice for plugging into the gennys matching receptacle, shorter the better to reduce line voltage drop. Then if you want to plug up your RV's 50 amp power cord you need the 30 Amp Male to 50 amp female dogbone adapter which will power up BOTH your RV's 120 Volt legs but with ONLY 30 amp capacity and only one leg of 120 VAC. IE run only one AC... I would use NO LESS then a 10 gauge 3 conductor cord, not 12 or 14 Gauge and no longer then 25 feet which is a standard size for a 30 Amp RV power or extension cord 2) Typically, subject to design and actual (NOT hyped up) specs for continuous and short term surge capacity, a 3700/4500 Genset should start and run a single RV rooftop AC unit. However its still good to have a Soft Start installed to soften the blow even if it should work okay without it. 3) I'm reluctant to recommend brands, take a look at the ton of reviews over on You Tube for that. While many say bad things about them I have seen several Predator units sold at Harbor Freight that worked fine. Still Yamaha and Honda and maybe a few others have excellent reputations YOUR CHOICE NOT OURS 4) You mention powering an AC and a couple refrigerators ?? Such may or may not be possible based a lot on how many might try to start at the same time and the gensets actual capacity. Its not that an AC and fridge cant run on a 3700 its that when they start they pull much more current. That's where a Soft Start can help and make the difference. 5) Some gensets come from the factory with a Bonded Neutral others a Floating Neutral. If plugging an RV into it which (unlike homes panel) has Neutral and Ground busses insulated and isolated (NO Bond) you would use a Bonded Neutral genset. However, if you're trying to backfeed a homes panel with emergency power and you connect the home and genset Neutrals together (NOT switch the Neutral) the genset should use a Floating Neutral. Things may still work otherwise but an RV EMS and some Surge Protectors will throw an error code if they sense a Floating Neutral. You got this, its easy peasey John T Long retired power distribution engineer and rusty on the latest codes but believe this is still true
  14. So I need to replace the fabric (all else is fine) on my awning and debating to use cloth like or the traditional "plastic" or whatever it is. Looking for opinions and experiences for which to choose. Thanks yall John T Live in the RV from Half Century of Progress in Rantoul Illinois
  15. Ive seen that happen, they are sometimes called a Salesmen's Switch (Master battery cut off) typically located near the entry door that cuts off house battery power to the RV so the battery isn't drained when setting. What is the voltage of your house batteries?????? I doubt they are so badly discharged no lights or anything is working. When plugged to shore power iffffffffff your converter/charger is working it should charge them. There may or may not be some sort of overcurrent protection (fuse or DC Breaker) or switch on your house batteries ?? If so it obviously needs to be closed and good, and of course proper and connected wiring (including Ground) from batteries up to your DC load center. Look for disconnected or broken cables or blown fuses etc on your house batteries !!!!! Master Switch or fuse or breaker or wiring problem assuming your house batteries are NOT completely drained is my first guess ?? If so plug to shore power and insure your converter/charger is working and connected to your house batteries and is indeed charging them. Check battery water levels and voltage !!!!!!!!!!! John T
  16. I also converted BOTH my home and RV to LED lights. They draw far less current, more lumens of light per watt, produce far less heat, and for the most part (sure there are always exceptions) last much longer. I'm a believer (50 years of RV's and trailers etc) in after a thorough cleaning using dielectric grease to prevent corrosion, works great... John T Live in the RV at the Lagrange Tractor Show
  17. Ive observed soooooooo much confusion all over the net (some of which is a lay persons opinion NOT any professional) as well as some here regarding the use of Generators for RV power and if they should be Bonded or Floating so I will try to shed some light on the subject. 1) Some smaller portable gensets are factory wired with a Floating others a Bonded Neutral FOR GOOD REASON !!!!!!!!!!!!! 2) A typical EMS type of device will throw a fault code if the RV is connected to a Floating genset so many Bond themselves (bonding jumper etc) so the EMS works. 3) A manufacturer may ??? advise against bonding based in part on advice from legal counsel to avoid liability since in certain situations bonding would be in violation of the NEC (Im also an attorney so believe this) 4) In a typical application where the homeowner uses a plug and cord to backfeed his home panel upon a power outage he (after main breaker is off) plugs in a cord from the genset which effectively connects the gensets Neutral to the homes Neutral (there can be ONLY ONE NG BOND) while the homes panel (unlike RV panel) already has a Neutral Ground Bond THATS A SITUATION WHERE A FLOATING GENSET (NOTTTTTTTTTT A BONDED) SHOULD BE USED ! 5) Now for RV use which has a panel WITHOUT A NG BOND iffffffff a portable genset is used it should have a Bonded Neutral. The NEC calls for (portable set out gensets) bonding to a Grounding Electrode such as a driven rod SUBJECT to exceptions if portable pug n cord power tools are fed from onboard genny receptacles. To make it further complicated some OSHA regulations for construction gensets advise Bonding NG but NOTTTTTTTTTT connecting to a ground rod also for sound reasons. 6) In 50 years of RV use every RV onboard genset Ive seen uses a Bonded Neutral and also bonding to the RV frame which suffices as the Grounding Electrode (You DO NOT need a ground rod attached to RV !!!!!!!!) but I haven't seen them all lol, there may be floaters out there NO WARRANTY.. 7) If a floating system is used and there's a short of a hot to a conductive frame or case or enclosure there's no fault current return path and the circuit breaker will NOT trip. If a Bonded system is used and the case/frame/enclosure comes in contact with a shorted hot case/frame/enclosure the breaker will trip and turn off the power NOTE connecting an RV to a ground rod wont help a whole lot in case of a lightning strike and rubber tires aren't a stop to a gazillion volts !!!!!!!!! Subject to the earth and resistances and connections etc etc a ground rod will not necessarily prevent shock if you touch a hot RV skin BUT HEY IT WONT HURT AND THEY COULD HELP. The earths resistance is too high to allow enough current flow to trip a 20 to 50 amp breaker while connection to a low resistance Equipment Grounding Conductor (the bare or green) allows adequate fault current to trip the breaker and hopefully save a life........GROUND THE RV CASE/FRAME TO THE EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR can save a life in case of a hot short to frame !!!!!!!!!!! DISCLAIMER this is short brief NOT exact or perfect explanation it would take books and study to cover this complex subject in detail SO NO WARRANTY also Im long retired n rusty on the latest codes so again NO WARRANTY. Floating systems have a place and use as Bonded but I cant cover all that here. I prefer Bonded systems and regardless a GFCI will still work in EITHER or off utility or genset power.............. PS do NOT take ONLY my word for this, consult Mike Holt Electrical Training Solutions |Mike Holt Enterprises or No Shock Zone see what they have to say !!!!! Hey I try my best, yall be safe and have a great day John T in RV at an antique tractor show yayyyyyyyyyyyyy
  18. One thing to consider is a weak/resistive connection can still yield the correct voltage on a tester or volt meter HOWEVER if you place a load on it only then is there a V = I x R Voltage Drop which can make the load inoperative because you drop the voltage across the bad connection versus the load itself. I couldn't count all the bad/resistive connections or corroded or loose fitting pins/contacts Ive encountered in 50 years of RVing grrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Bright clean shiny contacts on both the male and female portions is a must............ John T
  19. TrailerTraveler, GREAT questions, while Im long retired and rusty from my days as a Power Distribution Design Engineer I will offer my professional opinions and answers 1) The GFCI works by sensing the current flowing out the Hot versus being returned by the Neutral. It DOES NOT sense or measure current in the Equipment GroundiNG Conductor, it does NOT pass through the Torroid Coil . There's ONLY the two wires Hot and Neutral passing through the GFCI's Torroid current sensing coil. THEREFORE it still works with or without Neural Ground Bonding,,,,,,, or using a Floating Neutral,,,,,,,,or using a Genset or utility power source. The GFCI isnt concerned with or monitoring the equipment ground conductor ONLY Hot and Neutral...It still works regardless .......... 2) Im rusty on the latest NEC but can tell you this. Ifffffffff a portable genset is configured as a SEPARATE DERIVED SYSTEM it is required to be bonded to a proper GROUNDING ELECTRODE such as but not limited to driven into earth ground rods SUBJECT TO AN EXPEPTION its not a requirement IFFFFFFF the genset is used to power up portable plug and cord connected tools THAT ARE PLUGGED INTO THE GENSETS ONBOARD MOUNTED RECEPTACLES ONBOARD RV GENSETS: In the case of onboard gensets, the iron conductive frame of the RV suffices for and can be used as a "Grounding Electrode" IE you dont need to drive a ground rod when youre in your RV running off its onboard genset. You can if you like. Sooooooo YES use the frame as a Grounding Electrode for the Genset BUT no earth ground rod is required. Typically an onboard RV genset is configured with a BONDED (NOT Floating) Neutral and such is bonded to the RV's frame which serves as the Grounding Electrode. HEY if you feel good go ahead and drive a rod and connect to the RV neither me nor the NEC are stopping you NOTE some portable gensets come from the factory with A BONDED NEUTRAL, others with a A FLOATING NEUTRAL for good reasons I could explain if needed. As you know an EMS will throw a fault if theres no NG bond which is why a bonding jumper can be used to correct for a genset that has a Floating Neutral so the EMS works. Again a GFCI still works regardless WOW that opens several cans of worms lol I will try to be brief 1) If a portable genset comes with a Floating Neutral that's because its safe and NEC proper based on how many poles and how the Transfer Switching is configured, if you connect utility and genset Neutrals together, and what you're powering (house, RV, tools etc) SO IF YOU BOND THERE MAY BE AN NEC VIOLATION AND SAFETY PROBLEM They will recommend NOT bonding, there can be ONLY ONE NG BOND. HOWEVER an RV panel unlike a home panel uses separate insulated and isolated Neutral and Ground busses THEREFORE its okay to create a NG bond in a floating genset used to power an RV (subject to the above) even if NOT to power your home TWO VERY DIFFERENT THINGS 2) Grounding and Bonding. There's a lot of old wives tales and mis information and lay person non engineer non electrician info out there on that complex topic I CANT EXPLAIN THE NEC AND A LIFES WORK HERE LOL so will just offer this based on my training and experience as a Power Distribution Design Engineer NOW DO AS YOU WISH........ For an onboard RV genset (remember its panel does NOT connect N and G like a home) I would use a BONDED NEUTRAL and also bond to the RV frame as a Grounding Electrode. For a portable genset on the ground TO POWER AN RV I would BOND N and G and per the NEC use a ground rod but most don't do that nor have I for short term use. For home its different but Im not going into that here it would take an entire library lol. Floating gensets are NEC safe and proper in certain circumstances, bonded in others NOTE those who think driving a rod and connect to the RV since its on rubber wheels protects a whole significant amount against lightning may not understand the nature of things. The gazillion volts amps and energy lightning can produce are no match for a few inches of rubber tires YEAH RIGHT. Earth grounding of the Neutral is protection against surges and spikes and to keep the gird at a common low voltage reference. SURGE WHEN USING GENSET Sure use it is fine IFFFFFF genset has a bonded Neutral. However the chances of a major high energy spike or surge on the utility IS FAR LESS ON A GENSET so theres much less risk when using your own generation. Use on genset if you like...... When browsing the net for info see if its from lay persons or experts or technicians or engineers before making what may be a life or death decision and remember Bonding and Floating and earth grounding and RV versus home and transfer methods and how many poles are switched (Hots and Neutrals switched or Neutrals tied together???? ??) matters. I would BOND N & G on an onboard RV genset and connect to the frame.......There is a place and reasons why and NEC for a Floating system is required which I'm not trying to cover here,,,,,,,Use an EMS on genset if you like,,,,,,,No earth rod is required if done as above on an RV but you can if you like but don't think that helps much in a lightning strike because you're on rubber YEAH RIGHT PS FYI If you use a portable genset to feed your home and tie genset and utility Neutrals together AS TYPICALLY DONE .....You use a FLOATING genset and tie the EGC to the gensets frame HOWEVER if you switch Neutrals and dont bond them together, use a Bonded Genset as the RV N and G are NOT bonded together and per NEC attach a Grounding Electrode such as a rod into earth. The reason Yamaha says NOT to bond is because if you do it may violate the NEC !!!!!!!!!! They cant know how you use it. PS FYI You for sure want the RV frame (just like all other non current carrying metallic boxes or enclosures etc) bonded to the Equipment Grounding Conductor in case there's a short energizing the frame YIKES Hot Skin can be a killer and simply alone driving a ground rod to the RV may not be enough to prevent electrocution !!!!! TIE THE FRAME TO THE EGC PS FYI the use of a ground rod on a stand alone portable generator to power an RV has nothing to do with use of a ground rod for the RV. Using a Ground Rod where necessary when configuring a portable genset in accordance with the NEC as a Separate Derived System doesn't know or matter if you attach the RV frame to another ground rod or not !!!!!!!!!! Yes you can drive a rod for the RV if your wish or NO you don't have to. Neutral Ground Bonding IS NOT THE SAME as earth grounding of the Neutral. You can Bond but NOT ground, those are two different things. Just because you use a Ground rod on a portable genset as required for a Separate Derived Source DOES NOT mean you need a ground rod on the RV. Typically you DO not drive a ground rod and attach to an RV frame REGARDLESS if you use a Bonded or a Floating portable genset to power the RV PS FYI if an RV frame gets in contact with a live hot wire and its NOT bonded to the Equipment Grounding Conductor (as it should be) so the breaker trips, it can remain energized and electrocute someone who touches it. HOWEVER even if if a ground rod is attached to the hot skin the resistance of the earth is too great to allow enough current to trip the breaker so the skin remains hot and can electrocute someone EVEN IF RV IS ATACHED TO A GROUND ROD !!!!! THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE NEUTRAL GROUND BOND PS if you see different opinions on this subject and cant decide which to follow CONSULT MIKE HOLT Electrical Training Solutions |Mike Holt Enterprises Those who agree with him are most likely RIGHT those who disagree likely WRONG in my opinion Out or time I have to run ask questions later John T BSEE,JD Retired Power Distribution Design Engineer
  20. Sooooooo, all of a sudden my Ford E 450 V 10 Super Duty throws an ABS warning light hmmmmmmmm... Speedometer and Cruise all working perfect. My buddys expensive Snap On Analyzer points to the rear differential mounted speed sensor so it and pig tail are replaced......... Warning light still on despite the Snap on clear/reset plus leave battery cable off 2 hours grrrrrrrrr It doesn't show any other speed sensors as the problem He keeps asking me over n over "Are you sure the speedometer is working right?" YES as well as cruise so plan is to ohm out the wiring from sensor up to ABS module and check the module. HOWEVER only after I get home do I notice (never happened before) THE ODOMETER READING STAYS LIT UP ALL THE TIME IGNITION ON OR OFF Well Drats lol maybe its a cluster problem ???? Maybe an ABS module if its not any minor wiring problem, time will tell. I fear that odometer light always staying on like never before may have something to do with this John T NOT a happy camper even if the slightest or any minor problem affects my RV grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
  21. Glenn, I don't have a Victron brand, but my 500 Amp Shunt uses 3/8" studs with maybe an inch or so exposed for connections... John T
  22. Will B Thanks for sharing that information. You posted BatteryWiringDoc.pdf (dwo.net) Agrees with the information I posted: http://www.smartgauge.co.uk/batt_con.html which states in part: "Now in all fairness, many people say "but the difference is negligible, the resistances are so small, so the effect will also be small". The problem is that in very low resistance circuits (as we have here) huge differences in current can be produced by tiny variations in battery voltage. I'm not going to produce the calculations here because they really are quite horrific. I actually used a PC based simulator to produce these results because it is simply too time consuming to do them by hand." A good thing is how such a simple re connection as used in METHOD 2 so greatly improves battery balance Hey Glenn, since 1) Your Positive side is easy to get to 2) You ALREADY have the negative side corrected and 3) Its so relative cheap n easy to rewire the Positive side 4) Considering such a huge investment in batteries and being best if ALL expensive batteries are balanced,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I "recommend" you do as BOTH articles above agree BUT ITS YOUR CHOICE NONE OF OURS Fun thread best wishes let us know how it turns out John T
  23. I just think if I invested such a HUGE amount in multiple Lithium batteries I would want them ALL BALANCED the best possible, even if sure what Glenn proposed will work fine and Im sure a bunch out there (maybe most systems) are wired how he intends or even worse lol Best wishes Glenn, Im sure you will have one fine system regardless John T Hey I don't claim to have my system all wired perfect either grrrrrrrr just giving what I consider a good answer Glenn PS to your post above "John I still had a #4 on the battery that difficult to get to. So what I did was hook up negative side with #4 from each battery to shunt" MY RESPONSE Iffffffffff you have 3 separate cables, preferably all the same length, from EACH battery Negative to your shunt THATS NOT THE SAME AS ALL NEGATIVES DAISY CHAINIED AND YOU TAP IN THE MIDDLE WITH A SINGLE CABLE TO THE SHUNT That's sounding more like Smart Gauges Methods 3 or 4 which "may" be fine, but Im unsure exactly how you're wired so just take a look at the Smart Gauge website and Im sure you will figure it out.............
  24. Glenn, FYI here’s what the Smart Gauge tests results indicated and what THEY had to say about the differences as to how multiple batteries are connected. These are NOT my calculations so if anyone has a disagreement take it up with them not me. THEIR (not mine) results show it indeed makes a significant difference as to load and charge balance versus the method of connection. AGAIN sure it still works EITHER way its just that if you want all batteries to share the load and charging the same you may want to at least consider how you wire them… ITS YOUR CHOICE NONE OF OURS SMART GAUGE TEST RESULTS AND THEIR CONCLUSIONS. Now in all fairness, many people say "but the difference is negligible, the resistances are so small, so the effect will also be small". The problem is that in very low resistance circuits (as we have here) huge differences in current can be produced by tiny variations in battery voltage. I'm not going to produce the calculations here because they really are quite horrific. I actually used a PC based simulator to produce these results because it is simply too time consuming to do them by hand. METHOD 1 Battery internal resistance = 0.02 Ohms Interconnecting lead resistance = 0.0015 Ohms per link Total load on batteries = 100 amps The bottom battery provides 35.9 amps of this. The next battery up provides 26.2 amps. The next battery up provides 20.4 amps. The top battery provides 17.8 amps. METHOD 2 After this simple modification, with the same 100 amp load.... The bottom battery provides 26.7 amps of this. The next battery up provides 23.2 amps. The next battery up provides 23.2 amps. The top battery provides 26.7 amps. METHODS 3 AND 4 (to achieve even better balance with multiple batteries) NOT SHOWN HERE, GO TO THEIR WEBSITE for all test results SmartGauge Electronics - Interconnecting multiple batteries to form one larger bank Best wishes Glenn, you asked the question and I gave an answer, now its up to you….and either still "works" even if not the best balance........ NOTE I support your or anyone's decision to wire however they please. I cant say I have always done things the absolute best perfect way and you should connect them however its best for YOUR situation be it prefect or almost prefect or questionable lol. Go for it its YOUR money YOUR batteries none of ours......Im only here to help the best i can... John T Retired n rusty electrical engineer so no warranty
  25. Glenn as you already know sure it will still work even if its not ideal. Its just that way you wont get as equal load and charge balance among all three batteries as if done right...... SmartGauge Electronics - Interconnecting multiple batteries to form one larger bank Its YOUR choice Im not here to tell people how to do things lol John T
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