Jackalopee wiring pics,

[lockmup68]

someone posted a few jackalopee wiring pics a few days ago. I am not finding them tonight and I'm doing the terminal strips. Want to visually compare. Anyone remember what thread they were in? 

Thanks,

Shannon

[Shawn Patterson]

It was in the Confused What Goes Where post.

 

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

Alan posted them.

PM me and I'll send you the ones I sent Alan awhile ago.

[rdickinson]

I had to replace the circuit board on mine a couple of months ago.  I have some pics if you think they may be helpful.  A relay froze and fried.

[Av8r3400]

Photos reposted from the other thread:

 

I don't want to offend Allan, but I saved these photos to my local computer and plan to replicate this setup in my truck.  I hope it turns out half as neat and organized...

[alan0043]

9 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:

Photos reposted from the other thread:

 

I don't want to offend Allan, but I saved these photos to my local computer and plan to replicate this setup in my truck.  I hope it turns out half as neat and organized...

I am glad that the photos can help. I got the idea about the terminal strips from Jim. There is one place that I would do over. I would use clear heat shrink tubing over the labels on the wires. I also tried to keep the wires colored coded. All the parts are mounted to 3/4" plywood.

Best of luck with your project,
Al

[Shallow Draft]

This will never work!    There is no black tape and everyone knows you have to use black tape. LOL

Very nicely done.

 

[Scrap]

Except for one doubled terminal, they are both one for one......Just curious what these do for you guys?  Or is the doubled terminal the thing that they do?

[Big5er]

I'm confused too. The connections are all labeled inside the Jackalopee. Why not run the wires straight into and out of the jackalopee? What is the purpose of the added connection? I ran 7 wire cable from inside the jackalopee all the way to the rear of my truck where the plug is. One constant and complete cable with no connections to worry about in the middle. 

[Darryl&Rita]

More connections means more fun when the lights don't work. There is a bit of an increase in room, but from what I've seen, the Jakalopee isn't overly small for the wire fill.

[phoenix2013]

19 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:

Photos reposted from the other thread:

 

I don't want to offend Allan, but I saved these photos to my local computer and plan to replicate this setup in my truck.  I hope it turns out half as neat and organized...

I am impressed, probably should include it in the Jackalopee Manual with a note, "This installation came in first in the Neatest Jackalopee Wiring Competition"

Also noted that the main wires were routed through the case side, since I drill all the holes in the cases I could deliver the Jackaloppe in this configuration from the start if someone wanted to duplicate this setup, just mention this when you order.

[Big5er]

Okay, I get that it is "pretty" but I still don't understand the "why". My jackalopee (now that I moved it someplace where the waterproof box doesn't fill with water) has one nice big black cable running in and one nice big black cable running out. The factory cable runs in and my cable runs out, all the way to the plug for the trailer. I'm just a dumb old redneck. But what is the need/reason for the added wiring terminal blocks? I also don't understand all those exposed connections. Looks like a short waiting to happen, unless you keep that compartment totally empty.

[Shallow Draft]

2 minutes ago, Big5er said:

Okay, I get that it is "pretty" but I still don't understand the "why". My jackalopee (now that I moved it someplace where the waterproof box doesn't fill with water) has one nice big black cable running in and one nice big black cable running out. The factory cable runs in and my cable runs out, all the way to the plug for the trailer. I'm just a dumb old redneck. But what is the need/reason for the added wiring terminal blocks? I also don't understand all those exposed connections. Looks like a short waiting to happen, unless you keep that compartment totally empty.

I water proofed the water proof box and hopefully solved the problem.  And yes it is one big wire in and one out with the others sealed as best as I could. Seems to be staying dry now. I agree less connections less to go wrong.  But it looks nice. LOL

[phoenix2013]

Wife went to the post office today with a "gaggle" of Jackalopees.

She posted it to her sons (wiseguys) who immediately offered this information

I was wondering why the sudden demand and the flaggerdoot from all over the country in the same few days. After seeing this wiring I can see why.

I smell from a long distance a talent of a technician or an engineer who wired military equipment, ships, missiles, airplanes, etc., perhaps some familiarity with DOD standard Mil-W-5088L

[Av8r3400]

38 minutes ago, Big5er said:

Okay, I get that it is "pretty" but I still don't understand the "why". My jackalopee (now that I moved it someplace where the waterproof box doesn't fill with water) has one nice big black cable running in and one nice big black cable running out. The factory cable runs in and my cable runs out, all the way to the plug for the trailer. I'm just a dumb old redneck. But what is the need/reason for the added wiring terminal blocks? I also don't understand all those exposed connections. Looks like a short waiting to happen, unless you keep that compartment totally empty.

The sub boxes allow for additional wires for more lights to be easily added if needed later. 

These boxes also have clear covers, protecting the terminal blocks, which are not shown in the photos. 

 

You our do make a valid point, Phil, that the added complexity is not necessary. I may not put the sub-box on the input side but I definitely see the advantage on the output side. 

Edited May 20, 2017 by Av8r3400

[DJohns]

I agree with Phil, why have all the extra connections to fail. Something so simple then complicate it??????

[adept99]

Just to confuse and obtusificate the issue further, I apparently have failed to understand the intent here completely. So I mounted two (2) fused terminal blocks NEAR the jackalopee, and fed power from a switched power source to one and a non switched source to the other.  That lets me add lights, radios, winches, etc without interfering with the original truck wiring.

Works purty good

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

If AV8r would care to post the picks I sent him along with the short right up it might help others.                                               I had intermittent lighting issues that stemmed from a rats nest of wire from past roadside fixes.  I removed all this and was able to pull new wire from the truck side junction box.to the lights at the back of the truck without having to buy another Volvo harness.  And this was before David- Deepspacelighting- had a harness available.  Having the terminal strips allows you to separate the components and test where a fault is.

"Trailer turn signal doesn't work when I flip the turn signal stalk"

Is it the truck side? 

Jackalope?

Or trailer?

Plus at some point, adding mirror turn signals, a 3rd brake light, extra deck lighting, etc is simple.  You have a direct source to easily tie into.

 

[Av8r3400]

Fuse block on the left is on a relay from key switch power.  I have it on a 50 fuse.  

Terminal box on the left has the truck factory harness entering it.

7 wire cable runs from this strip into the Jackaloppe on the truck side.  Any 7wire cable will work.  The colors are the same- commercial truck or RV- they just go to different functions.

The wiring leaves the Jackaloppe and goes to the right most terminal strip, and continues thru to the rear of the truck.

Purpose is to isolate parts of the system if the need arises.

The middle terminal strip is currently empty in the pics.  It is now used as a bridge to run extra lights from the truck system.  Easy way to add a 3rd brake light, mirror turn signals, etc.

The fuse block supplies power to the Jackaloppe, Hayes brake controller I currently use, and I have a USB plug strip it powers up on the dash for charging phones etc.

I bought 3 of these https://www.lowes.com/ pd/Gampak-2-in-NM-SE- Connector/1100137 in 1" to route cable and wire in and out of the compartment.

 

[Big5er]

Holy mackarel. That confuses me even more. 
This looks like my installation..plain, and simple.

You guys are way smarter than me...although I can see how it might make adding lights easier. Still confused about the inlet side. 

Oh well, all this confusion is making me tired. Think I'll drink a Dr. Pepper and go to bed. 

[phoenix2013]

10 hours ago, Av8r3400 said:

 

 

 

I see a PROBLEM in this picture. A confusion about the functions and wiring of the two blue wires on the input (truck) side.

It looks to me that the blue wire from the truck 7 wire cable (Auxiliary +12VDC power, switched on when the key is switched on) is plugged into the tab where the blue wire from the trailer brake should go. And the blue wire from the trailer brake (variable power from the controller to the electric brakes) is plugged into truck Auxiliary tab.

This could really screw things up royally,

If the Auxiliary function in the truck works properly (in some trucks this is disabled but not many), when the key is turned on there would be be permanent +12VDC power going to the trailer brakes constantly, locking them on.

The trailer battery charging power is plugged into Direct tab, that means it charges that battery all the time with nothing on on the Auxiliary power tab, Every time the trailer brakes are applied that power would go off. But that is not so bad as dragging trailer wheels with the brakes hard on.

Unless things got further rewired in those boxes between the truck and the Jackalopee, this definitely does not look kosher. I'll be happy to offer free "consultation".

 

Edited May 20, 2017 by phoenix2013

[alan0043]

Hi Everyone,

My thought process on wiring my Jackalopee came from the industrial world. The pieces of equipment that I ran was wired using terminal strips. I operated electrical and gas fired furnaces for heat treating of steel and non-ferrous materials. I understand that everyone has a different thought process. This was just my thought process. The terminal strips help with in trouble shooting industrial pieces of equipment. So why not the truck. There is also a clear cover to help protect the terminal strips. It is not in the picture. If you need to add a wire or too, it can be done a little easier with the strips.

Al

[Jack Mayer]

The purpose of the strips is to tap functions in the future. 

For example, on my drom boxes with LED light strips on top....I tap the separate stop BEFORE the Jackie so the the center of three light srips can function as an individual marker/stop (no turn). You cant do that with the Jackie alone. I've also tapped for various other purposes both on the input and output sides.  Of course, if you don't need these "functions" then just run a Jackie like Phil does. 

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

2 hours ago, phoenix2013 said:

I see a PROBLEM in this picture. A confusion about the functions and wiring of the two blue wires on the input (truck) side.

It looks to me that the blue wire from the truck 7 wire cable (Auxiliary +12VDC power, switched on when the key is switched on) is plugged into the tab where the blue wire from the trailer brake should go. And the blue wire from the trailer brake (variable power from the controller to the electric brakes) is plugged into truck Auxiliary tab.

This could really screw things up royally,

If the Auxiliary function in the truck works properly (in some trucks this is disabled but not many), when the key is turned on there would be be permanent +12VDC power going to the trailer brakes constantly, locking them on.

The trailer battery charging power is plugged into Direct tab, that means it charges that battery all the time with nothing on on the Auxiliary power tab, Every time the trailer brakes are applied that power would go off. But that is not so bad as dragging trailer wheels with the brakes hard on.

Unless things got further rewired in those boxes between the truck and the Jackalopee, this definitely does not look kosher. I'll be happy to offer free "consultation".

 

I "Found" that on the original hook up and corrected it.  

[phoenix2013]

2 minutes ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

I "Found" that on the original hook up and corrected it.  

Ah, good man.

I was puzzled, the initial wiring was perfect but when it went into the truck it "changed".

The layout on the Jackalopee PCB is not ideal, I get the same questions as does Gregg Shields who distributes them. He suggested a board layout change. The blue wire location from the Auxiliary and the blue wire location from the brake controller are just too close together and often end up swapped.

I'm thinking about engineering change on the board to separate these a bit..