Assistance on HDT issues I need to resolve

[BlueLghtning]

If you are intersted, I just shared my story of driving my new to me 2000 Volvo 610 home from CA to GA. - 

As expected with any used vehicle there are a few things to sort out. I could use your assistance to point me in the right direction. I work on my own motorcycles so I should be okay doing some things on the HDT, but I'm brand new to working on anything this big. So any help would be appreciated. At least I made it home without any major issues happening or delaying my trip.  As a back story this HDT has 481k miles but has only done about 18k miles over the past 13 years so it's not been used heavily at all the past 13 years. It did just make 2k mile run so that is good!  

So far these are the most pressing issues I need to resolve

• New muffler on my single exhaust stack (old one rotted out and broke on way home)
• Replace dry rotted bushings on torsion bar(?) 
• Chase down suspected drive line vibration that started happening the last 100 miles of the trip
• Plastic grill intake cover on passenger side of hood
• Your opinion on my air bags
• Install a 5th wheel air hitch, but I have another thread on that so we'll ignore in this one.

New muffler:
Let's start with the exhaust. As mentioned in my report, I noticed the muffler was pretty rotten when I bought the truck and it fell apart soon into my trip. I have a single stack exhaust on the passenger side. Someone mentioned the muffler its self is pretty cheap and the clamps cost more? Anyone have a suggestion on where to get a new Muffler? Does it look like I need the 90 degree turn up pipe too? I can't tell if maybe this piece where it broke on the bottom was just part of the muffler or was it actually part of the upturn pipe so I need to replace it too? 

i know a lot of people swith to a weed burner when they build a bed or add a drom box. Would it be easier to go that route for now or does that introduce more issues and what does that all involve changing? I know one advantage of the stack is it gets the exhaust up away from the truck so you don't smell it when parked, but at the same time, it takes up room on the back. If I only build a small bed to haul motorcycles, this stack exhasut may not be a big deal? to me either?  

Here's where the bottom of the muffler basically fell off. It also broke away from the pipe it was sitting on? 

Here is where it broke on the bottom of the muffler. Was this part of the muffler that slid into this exhaust pipe or is it part of the upsweep pipe? I can't tell? Obviously it's all pretty rusted including that clamp. 

Here is where I think the upsweep pipe attaches under the cab under that clamp. 

Chrome tip looks good. I think that is where the muffler stops at the top and the chrome tip just attaches? 


So what does it look like I need here for this? Vertical Stack Muffler, upsweep pipe? a couple clamps? 

Torsion Bar: I think it's called that or maybe a Torque Arm?
The bushings in this are obviously dry rotted and trashed. Do you buy this whole piece or just replace the bushings. Anything to know about this thing? 

Drive line vibration: Overall on the 2k mile ride home this truck did great with no noticeable vibes or issues. However I started to notice on the last 100 miles or so of our trip, most of that on back roads running 55mph, there was a noticeable vibration that had seemed to come out of no where. It seems to start about 45mph and probably the worst around 55mph in 10th gear around 1300 RPM's. It's most noticeable at steady throttle on flat ground. If I let up to coast, it's still there, but not as bad. It also seems to disappear under power, but maybe the engine/acceleration is masking it and I don't feel it. It's nothing crazy like the truck is going to fall apart, but it's definitely there now and it wasn't during my trip. I haven't been able to get back on the interstate to see if it's there at say 65+ mph where we were running most of the trip home. 

Could the worn torsion/torque bar bushings be contributing to this? Is there anything to check on the drive train like the u-joints or drive shaft? Here are some pics of the driveline. If I need some other pics let me know.

I think this is called the carrier bearing? This is looking in from the back towards the front of the truck and is just under the rear of the cab




At the rear end


Air Bags: The air bags don't seem to look terrible, but I'll get your opinion on them. This was sitting for a day so they deflated a bit, but even fully inflated I didn't see anything too bad. 




Rear Cab air bags



 

Plastic grill intake cover: Where do you pick up something as simple as this? Is there a known part number to look for? 

 

 

 

[Scrap]

50AS for the bottom clamp, 13-0013 for the upper double clamp.  10"x51" muffler would be M101280 for the factory no-slobber (expensive), M101181 for the Silent Partner (still expensive), M100580 for the $100 muffler.  The mounting clamp/heat shield ring and bolts will have to come from your Volvo dealer.  Lower pipe and track rod will have to come from there too.  Spend the track rod changing day greasing brakes/drivelines/axles/clutch and see if she still vibrates.  Maybe you'll get lucky.  Good time to check brake adjustment too.

[rickeieio]

To get the chrome stack out of the muffler, use a small hammer (1# or so) and gently go round and round the joint.  As you do, you'll see rust "dust" falling out.  Don't hit hard enough to deform anything, just break up the rust.  It'll take a few minutes, but it works.

Use an anti-seize compound on all fasteners when you re-install muffler and clamps.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

https://class8truckparts.com/  will have everything you need.  They are not the cheapest though.  What I usually do is find the part number from either them or a Volvo dealer, and run a google search for the best price.  Greasing the drive line might make the vibration go away, but those u-joints have almost 500k miles on them.  

On the muffler, I had a Loves replace ours...$120 for the muffler, bottom elbow, 3 clamps and all labor.  That might have been the deal of the day, but I didn't have to do it myself.

 

[BlueLghtning]

okay, thanks guys that gives me some places to start! So much to learn, but eager to dive in! 

[rickeieio]

I forgot to mention on stack removal..... If the muffler neck is outside the chrome stack, and I believe it is, use some sort of grinder or cut-off wheel to cut slots in the muffler neck.  Tap on the neck as described above and use a screwdriver to wedge the slots you've made open.

[Rick & Alana]

Traditionally the Dealers are higher in price. However that is not always the case. Dealers can enter your vin and look up parts, and thus may be what you want. 

However with some effort the aftermarket suppliers can service your truck. Examples of these would be FleetPride and TruckPro, some here have had good luck with NAPA.  You may find a mom and pop in your area. 

The real key to dealing with any of these is finding a counter sales person who knows his parts and will be patient with your numerous questions. 

Always ask for part numbers and don't be afraid to shop if you don't find that special counter guy. 

And don't forget to check other brand dealers. Example would be batteries or even your muffler. KW may have a sale on batteries when Volvo does not. Or vice versa. 

[lockmup68]

If you do want to convert to weed burner, now is the time since you have to replace the elbow and the muffler and the clamps. Basically, you figure out how to lay the muffler down underneath and put a short downturn on the upper end. For example, you take the chrome pipe you have and cut it down to fit, have it dump straight down or to the side. You will prob have to weld in a couple of muffler mounts, but any exhaust shop or truck shop should be able to do it. Not expensive. 

Here is the donaldson muffler I used, same 51" long and 5 inch pipe that was on there, but not an international part number, $62. If you are going weedburner, might need a shorter one to fit your space. They come in 48 and 36 inch versions too. You can find 5 inch elbows and clamps pretty much everywhere. Amazon is good source and you can cut to fit. Also, look for a local diesel hot rod shop. They will have a bunch of 5 inch pipe pieces that you might be able to get cheap. They are constantly upgrading the dodge/ford/chebby diesels and cutting off other exhaust systems. Same for a local big rig diesel shop. Usually near truck stops, there will be a few independent diesel repair places that have parts for reasonable prices.

https://www.finditparts.com/products/237704/donaldson-m100465?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K237704&gclid=CjwKEAjw_bHHBRD4qbKukMiVgU0SJADr08ZZEXllS19DnaHOMUveFmJKA4GfPi6vViNo8j1F51_taBoCShHw_wcB

 

[hone eagle]

Sitting a lot with a stack invites water to get down in there ,consider a weed burner .The cab is a bit quieter as well.

That or cover the stack if it sits for a season or so.

[BlueLghtning]

Good point on sitting. Lots of great info, thanks guys. Now time to find some shops in my area. 

[HERO Maker]

While you're doing all the piping work, stack or weed burner, check your flex pipe coming off the front and it should probably be replaced as well.  With stainless steel.  Much easier to do this now that you have all the other pipe loose or off.

Weed burner would be my choice.

Your air springs may not look bad now, but take a look at the rusting metal plate at the top!  That is a common place for leaks to happen, and now is a better time to change them out instead of after your bed is built.

[BlueLghtning]

10 minutes ago, herorock said:

While you're doing all the piping work, stack or weed burner, check your flex pipe coming off the front and it should probably be replaced as well.  With stainless steel.  Much easier to do this now that you have all the other pipe loose or off.

Weed burner would be my choice.

Your air springs may not look bad now, but take a look at the rusting metal plate at the top!  That is a common place for leaks to happen, and now is a better time to change them out instead of after your bed is built.

I'll check the flex pipe. Might as well get it all taken care of. Is that metal plate part of the airbag itself or a seperate piece? 

[Rick & Alana]

The time to change air bags especially on the cab is before you out a bed on. If you are. 

[BlueLghtning]

The bed may have to wait for a bit and it's not urgent since our bikes can ride in the toy hauler for now. I want to get the truck all squared away first. When we do get a bed though, I'll make sure I account for those. 

[Quickthrotl]

15 minutes ago, BlueLghtning said:

I'll check the flex pipe. Might as well get it all taken care of. Is that metal plate part of the airbag itself or a seperate piece? 

It is part of the air bag, that is where mine was leaking

[HERO Maker]

Like Quickthrotl said.

[BlueLghtning]

Got it, thanks guys. 

[MrSeas]

That truck has been sitting for some time in Sunny So Cal......save yourself some grief down the road and change out those suspension and cab air bags while you have the luxury of your own driveway.

Cheap insurance.  Easy to change out in the driveway....not so much on the side of the road.  Also check your brake cans and the air lines while your in there.  Nows a good time to change out line and fittings that may be suspect.  Remember this truck has been "lightly used" and might need some "TLC".  Check your rear and cab leveling valve for leaks...these are a known weak spot. Again something easier to change now.

Use a coffee can or something simular to cover the top of your exhaust pipe to keep out your GA liquid sunshine if you choose to stay with you current exhaust set up.

I'll make a wager if you inflate the bags until you can see the very edge of the bags where they connect to the mounting plates you will have evidence of dry rot.  Don't have to buy from a dealer.  Call your local dealer or NAPA store with the last 6 digits of your VIN and they can give you the part numbers you will need for replacement parts.  Cab bags a bit harder to cross reference than the suspension bags, but both Goodyear and Firestone make replacements.

[BlueLghtning]

Okay, I ordered the Intake air grille cover and gasket today from ebay. They should be here in a few days. I also went ahead and ordered the M100580 Donaldson muffler that @Scrap listed. I was temped by the 100465 that @lockmup68posted, but I decided after reading some reviews, the 100580 was worth the $40 difference and actually found a place to ship the 100580 cheaper so the difference was even less. I checked out my exhaust pipes a little better and it was only the muffler that rotted out. All the exhaust pipes including the sweep up are fine and for that reason decided to stay with the stack for now. I'll just replace the muffler.

I was talking to my neighbor across the street last night as he wondered if I took up truck driving with the truck parked in the cul-de-sac out front of my house. After chatting for a bit, I found out he works at a local heavy duty truck towing & repair shere here in town. I went and met the owner today and seemed like a straight up guy. It's a small family owned business and seems it will be a good place to get stuff on the truck worked on when needed. In the mean time, I'm going to spend this weekend going over the truck more and seeing what else I need to work on.   

Things are moving along. Thanks for everyones help. 

[Pete Kildow]

Air bags will have cracks along the bottom crease. With them aired up look up toward the bottom of them. As long as it sit without air in them. I would bet there cracked back along the bottom.

Also I know CA is rust free for the most part. But check your brake can's Or brake chambers also. Being as old as they are. They can be rusted around the mounting points. (Caution) Do not touch the brake Chambers unless you know what your doing. Lots of Video's on how to  lock one out to replace them. But these can and have killed people who did it wrong.

On your Torque rod, check out this link Torque Rod You can use it to learn more on what the part is and cost.

Pete

[BlueLghtning]

48 minutes ago, wild wolf products said:

Air bags will have cracks along the bottom crease. With them aired up look up toward the bottom of them. As long as it sit without air in them. I would bet there cracked back along the bottom.

Also I know CA is rust free for the most part. But check your brake can's Or brake chambers also. Being as old as they are. They can be rusted around the mounting points. (Caution) Do not touch the brake Chambers unless you know what your doing. Lots of Video's on how to  lock one out to replace them. But these can and have killed people who did it wrong.

On your Torque rod, check out this link Torque Rod You can use it to learn more on what the part is and cost.

Pete

Yeah I drove the truck tonight and looked at the rear air bags aired up. They are going to need to be replaced in the near future so it's on my list. Thanks, I will probably leave the brake cambers to a professional, but I'll take a visual look at their condition. 

Thanks for the link on the Torque Rod. 

[Heavymetal]

On April 11, 2017 at 0:27 PM, BlueLghtning said:

I'll check the flex pipe. Might as well get it all taken care of. Is that metal plate part of the airbag itself or a seperate piece? 

Do you want a chrome side grill or black? Do you need both sides?

[BlueLghtning]

Just now, Heavymetal said:

Do you want a chrome side grill or black? Do you need both sides?

I ordered a black one tonight. The 1st gen only has it on the passenger side. 

[Heavymetal]

Ok. I was just going to give you the part#. I have a source for them so I had the # on hand. 

 

[BlueLghtning]

2 minutes ago, Heavymetal said:

Ok. I was just going to give you the part#. I have a source for them so I had the # on hand. 

 

Ahh thanks. I found them earlier today. I had to find the gasket too because apparently I lost that also.