jpar19 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi all. After using the search function and not finding what I need, I'll ask for help. I have a 2010 Volvo 630 VNL. The truck has an aftermarket (hot rod type) battery disconnect that doesn't seem to shut anything off. I would like to have the ability to shut the batteries as the truck sits a lot and runs the batteries down after just a couple days of sitting. The way it sits now the shut-off is in the positive cable but only one cable goes to it and one large positive cable goes to the batteries by-passing the shut off. Could someone peek under their truck and let me know how Volvo does it? Shouldn't everything go first to the shut-off, then to the batteries? I'd love to have the ability to preserve my batteries. Thanks for the help as always.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forxlr8n Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 I have never wired on the line but check to see if the one goes to the starter? If it does, it's okay because it will never pull power unless the starter solenoid is powered up. Check to see if the switch is bad. They are Flaming River switches and used on a lot of hot rods. "If you can not measure it, you can not improve it." Lord Kelvin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Here is mine and I wired it just like you describe. Took the big red + cable wired to one side and carried same size cable to where original cable attached. Mine works just fine. Volvo trucks are "frame grounded" so it sounds like you've got a big parasitic draw somewhere. If you google parasitic draws and dig in it will tell you how to find out how much it is. Remember those little wires you see attached to the battery are still drawing some current all the time. Question two is have you checked the batteries themselves. Even one bad battery in the group will draw them all down. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 There is no way you should be flattening a 4-battery bank in a "couple of days". You have another problem you need to find. The previous advice on the wiring of the shutoff is spot on. Jack & Danielle Mayer #60376 Lifetime Member Living on the road since 2000PLEASE no PM's. Email me. jackdanmayer AT gmail 2016 DRV Houston 44' 5er (we still have it) 2022 New Horizons 43' 5er 2016 Itasca 27N 28' motorhome 2019 Volvo 860, D13 455/1850, 236" wb, I-Shift, battery-based APU No truck at the moment - we use one of our demo units 2016 smart Passion, piggyback on the truck -------------------------------------------------------------------------See our website for info on New Horizons 5th wheels, HDTs as tow vehicles, communications on the road, and use of solar powerwww.jackdanmayer.com Principal in RVH Lifestyles. RVH-Lifestyles.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Buy or borrow a DC clamp on meter to see how much you are draining and on which cable. Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpar19 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 My truck only has three batteries. Should I add a fourth? I pulled the batteries out and I definitely have one bad one. I'm going to replace that one today and see if that changes anything. My battery disconnect doesnt seem to shut anything off. The truck will start regardless of what position the switch is in. I've just been removing the negative cables when it sits to avoid decharging. thanks for all the responses. I'll get to work and let you know how it goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darryl&Rita Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi all. After using the search function and not finding what I need, I'll ask for help. I have a 2010 Volvo 630 VNL. The truck has an aftermarket (hot rod type) battery disconnect that doesn't seem to shut anything off. I would like to have the ability to shut the batteries as the truck sits a lot and runs the batteries down after just a couple days of sitting. The way it sits now the shut-off is in the positive cable but only one cable goes to it and one large positive cable goes to the batteries by-passing the shut off. Could someone peek under their truck and let me know how Volvo does it? Shouldn't everything go first to the shut-off, then to the batteries? I'd love to have the ability to preserve my batteries. Thanks for the help as always.... A bypassed disconnect will not disconnect. Wire it properly, then watch it work. Sounds like you've been bitten by the PO bug. The Previous Owner has made a bunch of decisions, which will make zero sense to you, or most people. They seemed perfectly logical at the time, but now? Oh boy! Many moons from now, you'll continue to find new ways all the PO's have conspired to make your life "interesting". I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication 2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet 2007 32.5' Fleetwood QuantumPlease e-mail us here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Buy or borrow a DC clamp on meter to see how much you are draining and on which cable. Definitely do this. For under $40, you'll have a very useful tool to carry. My write-up on the subject is here: http://rvnerds.com/2016/07/20/my-new-favorite-multimeter-and-measuring-inverter-and-charging-efficiency/ 45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan0043 Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 My truck only has three batteries. Should I add a fourth? I pulled the batteries out and I definitely have one bad one. I'm going to replace that one today and see if that changes anything. My battery disconnect doesnt seem to shut anything off. The truck will start regardless of what position the switch is in. I've just been removing the negative cables when it sits to avoid decharging. thanks for all the responses. I'll get to work and let you know how it goes Hi jpar, My understanding is, if you have a bad battery you need to replace all of the batteries. The reason being is that the old batteries will take down your new battery. I know this is not what you wanted to hear. I hope you can find the problem with the truck. Best of luck, Al 2012 Volvo VNL 630 w/ I-Shift; D13 engine; " Veeger " Redwood, model 3401R ; 5th Wheel Trailer, " Dead Wood " 2006 Smart Car " Killer Frog " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 As to battery life and maintaining a charge. It is my understanding that batteries, after being put into service, will discharge 10% per month without ANY load. For that reason, I prefer to put a small solar panel on them when not used. I have a 20W on my TV. It does a good job of keeping batteries up and compensates for normal non-use exercise of batteries, which in theory should give me maximum life on those puppies. Marcel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Hi jpar, My understanding is, if you have a bad battery you need to replace all of the batteries. The reason being is that the old batteries will take down your new battery. I know this is not what you wanted to hear. I hope you can find the problem with the truck. Best of luck, Al A second on this, when one needs to be replaced, the others are not far behind. You should always replace the entire set of batteries with new ones with roughly the same production date. 2023 Thor Magnitude XG32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSeas Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Check with the "big truck" dealers in your area for the batteries. Someone always seems to have them on sale! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nuke-E Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 I've always been a bit of a skeptic on the logic of replacing all batteries at once. Certainly, if they're all close to enf-of-life, it makes sense to do them all together as opposed to the headache of several replacement operations. Just a few months ago, I replaced my chassis batteries--all 3 of them. But when I bought my rig, the batteries were old, and 2 tested bad. The seller replaced those two, and the three went a full 5 years from that point. It just seems like the people who advocate batteries all being the same seem to also be people who sell batteries... 45' 2004 Showhauler -- VNL300, ISX, FreedomLine -- RVnerds.com -- where I've started to write about what I'm up to Headlight and Fog Light Upgrades http://deepspacelighting.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hone eagle Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 ^^^^^ This , I do one a year .Started out with a leaker at a ECR just replaced it - next year kept on going .Need to find a use for the old ones as they rotate out ,trailer compartment is full 2005 volvo 670 freedomline singledNewmar Torrey Pine 34rskswoot woot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat & Pete Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 ^^^^^ This , I do one a year .Started out with a leaker at a ECR just replaced it - next year kept on going .Need to find a use for the old ones as they rotate out ,trailer compartment is full Maybe build a little bigger rear bumper . That would ad nicely to the battery bank . Goes around , comes around . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff.Sloan Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 My disconnect is on the ground side so it's easier to reach. Only thing that bypasses it is the BatteryMINDer 12248. 2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster 2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK Full time June 2017 DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Jeff, Just remember the Volvo is frame grounded so you could have a circuit that utilizes the frame as the ground and your shut off won't cut that circuit off. Probably not telling you something you aren't aware of 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgiaHybrid Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Carl, if his ground wire goes from the battery to the kill switch there is no way the frame could get grounded without another wire from battery ground to the frame that bypasses the kill switch. 2023 Thor Magnitude XG32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff.Sloan Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 I have mine right on the battery buss bar, so it should work even though it's on the low side - unless I am missing something?? 2004 Volvo 630, Cummins ISX, Eaton 10 speed (air assist clutch), 3.71 3.07 rear locker, ET jr, 200" WB, GearMaster 2017 Forest River Sierra 372LOK Full time June 2017 DW, 2 kids, and 2 dogs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted February 23, 2017 Report Share Posted February 23, 2017 Carl, if his ground wire goes from the battery to the kill switch there is no way the frame could get grounded without another wire from battery ground to the frame that bypasses the kill switch.David, Jeff, You are right. My bad. 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jpar19 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 So here's the update on what I found today. Removed all 3 batteries and had them load tested. Turns out the previous owner had replaced 2 of the three in 2015 but left 1 old battery in place. Turns out the old one had given up the ghost and was dragging down the whole system. I purchased one new battery and gave the remaining two a slow recharge. I'm sure their life span has been severely limited due to it's bad neighbor but I'll have to wait and see. The previous owner or shop or whomever had taken the battery shut-off out of the circuit. They had all the connections going direct to the battery. So I cleaned all the connections and rewired everything to go through the shut-off on the positive side. Everything now seems to work as it should. Thank you very much for all your help. I learn something new about this truck every time I lay my hands on it. It's so nice to have the wealth of information that you members provide. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Refuzn-To-Grow-Up Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 So here's the update on what I found today. Removed all 3 batteries and had them load tested. Turns out the previous owner had replaced 2 of the three in 2015 but left 1 old battery in place. Turns out the old one had given up the ghost and was dragging down the whole system. I purchased one new battery and gave the remaining two a slow recharge. I'm sure their life span has been severely limited due to it's bad neighbor but I'll have to wait and see. The previous owner or shop or whomever had taken the battery shut-off out of the circuit. They had all the connections going direct to the battery. So I cleaned all the connections and rewired everything to go through the shut-off on the positive side. Everything now seems to work as it should. Thank you very much for all your help. I learn something new about this truck every time I lay my hands on it. It's so nice to have the wealth of information that you members provide. Thanks again I agree about the learning process. I am getting very good at hunting down gremlins on my HDT . . . . but then I enjoy hunting. I wonder If I can train my puppies to hunt gremlins? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrap Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Be sure to put a tag or a sticker or something near the switch to remind yourself to wait for the DEF pump to finish purging before disconnecting. You don't want to leave that line full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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