Alie&Jim's Carrilite

Depending on the park we're in, I will crank the electric heat and stay nice and cozy that way as well. Add an extra 800watt heater in the basement and the floors stay nice and toasty.

We're stuck in north west Indiana right now... between Gary and Burns Harbor. Been here since July due to work. We bought a small dehumidifier to help with the condensation on the windows we have in the morning. What will help you the most is airflow. It's ok to be wrapped up tight, as long as there is airflow along the walls and a way to remove excess humidity. Some folks will leave a roof vent cracked open as hot/humid air will rise. Due to us paying for electric at this site, we're running our propane furnace set at 68* and the low humidity keeps it comfy for us.

Many places have chrome... Check out I-80 https://www.iowa80.com/

Now the BLING begins!

Did the magnetic idea back in 2014. 6 years later the Harbor Freight magnetic is still working.

Newmar is using a lot of Lippert components. As soon as that happens in a company, the downward spiral starts.

If I were to buy a Volvo brand, I'd go with the 730, or change it to the Mid roof Mack (same drivetrain just red instead of green). Go with the 13L and overdrive I-shift, redesign it with a tag rear axle that can be lifted, and a locker on the front axle. If a KW midroof was the option, then a Cummins and Allison for the drivetrain, with the rear set up like above. It would need a workstation, of some sort though.

And I got in trouble a year or so ago for a similar comment....

You really need to come east.... Louisiana, Mississippi, Illinois, Indiana, and the whole northeast beat New Mexico on the roads.... Pennsylvania leads the north east on road construction.

That can be the issue. The furnace fan runs on 12v, and your probably picking up interference.

Posting the OP's truck.

Don't think age is an issue... I'd bet he just has air leaks at the pass thru under the dash and tanks. Basically anywhere there are a bunch of the pushlock fittings. 2020 Volvo VNR 42-640, D13, 455hp, Ishift, 189wb, factory single, ET Junior Hitch, Jacklopee, Directlin

It takes a long time for Black Iron pipe to rust enough on the inside to cause issues. If it took 17 years on the Teton, plus whatever it laid around after it came out of the mill, I'd just go back with the black iron pipe. Clean it good inside, like with a brake cleaner before assembly.

We used Ancor products back in the boat business days. Having a proper crimper that doesn't break the insulation is necessary.

Thanks Ken, that helps. We're toying with the idea of buying one if the numbers work out for us. I know its an orphan, but I don't think there is a Lippert component in the rig. We're tired of the continual issues we're experiencing with our current rig.

Does anyone have a brochure downloaded from before they went out of business? Trying to find some info on their model line. I know they were almost all custom, but I know they did standards across their builds.

Buying another rig? Several folks have put a flap across the back of the truck, kinda like what motor coaches do.

From my small experience, I had the initial Hepatis shot in North Carolina at a Walgreens, and the second shot in Oklahoma also at a Walgreens. If the big pharmacies can do it the gov ought to be able to....

Never made it into the truck today... Is the Flash to pass on the same circuit as the daylight headlight circuit. I had the module that goes in the fuse panel short internally and it caused an avalanche of issues that David Dixon finally helped me figure out. Unplugged the module and everything returned to normal.

We keep the water tank full when we're at parks... in 7 years there have been enough times where there is no park water to make it worth while. As far as power sources, having a large enough battery bank is the goal with enough Solar to maintain it. Lacking that, our truck has a 3500puresinewave inverter that will power what we need in the RV. Truck carries 400amp (useable) batteries. Start the truck to charge the batteries, while also charging the RV batteries. Not exactly efficient but it works.

Have you checked where the harness goes thru the firewall? And check the bottom side of the fuse panel. I'll pull my fuse cover in the morning and see if I can't trace anything for you. Have you unplugged the Drivers display? Unplug it and see if you still blow the #12 fuse.

Glad it went well. Stay ahead of the the pain... its all numb right now but as you know will wake up. Even if you don't like taking the meds, take them until you are pain free.... that will make the rest of the recovery easier. And as you have been told.... no climbing, bending, lifting, truck driving, welding, metal cutting, motorcycle riding for a few weeks...

Disconnect the batteries, then pull the cables off the starter and check them for any corrosion. I suspect you have a bad cable, either ground or positive cable between the batteries and the starter.... My money is on the positive cable at the starter.... Been there Done that...

Got it, Thanks

Paul- Check you Messages please. Anyone that has Paul or Paula's number, please contact them. I may have someone interested in his truck.