Myth Busters

[Ray,IN]

8 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 

 10 seconds is way too long. So when you turn the key to the on position, do you let the system diagnostics run through it's routine before turning to the start position?

 For example, in the farm prostar/maxxfarce, and my Pete Cummins X15, I turn the key to the on position and listen for all of the clicking and air purges to stop before turning the start position. This can take up to about 4 seconds. Then, turn to start and either engine will fire within about 3-4 revolutions.

Yep, the electric lift pump only runs for 30+ seconds to prime the fuel system, then the gauge needles stop swinging, signifying  the system is primed. Then I start the engine, which used to turn over perhaps 3 times. After Cummins installed the latest ECM upgrade it takes longer between key to start, and ignition.

The gauge needles used to swing 4x,and the low air buzzer sounded with needle swing, after the ECM upgrade they now swing 2x, with no buzzer sound.

Edited January 2 by Ray,IN

[rickeieio]

New myth:

When installing an air line into what's commonly called a DOT fitting, or push-to-connect, the end needs to be cut square to seal inside the fitting.

This one has been discussed a couple years ago, but since I was working on a gladhand line today, I thought to bring it up again.

[spindrift]

32 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

New myth:

When installing an air line into what's commonly called a DOT fitting, or push-to-connect, the end needs to be cut square to seal inside the fitting.

This one has been discussed a couple years ago, but since I was working on a gladhand line today, I thought to bring it up again.

YES!!

[Ray,IN]

2 hours ago, rickeieio said:

New myth:

When installing an air line into what's commonly called a DOT fitting, or push-to-connect, the end needs to be cut square to seal inside the fitting.

This one has been discussed a couple years ago, but since I was working on a gladhand line today, I thought to bring it up again.

Urban myth:???  https://www.airliftcompany.com/workshop/push-to-connect-air-fittings/

https://www.aquafittings.com/correctly-install-push-connect-fittings/

Edited January 5 by Ray,IN

[rickeieio]

Parker says otherwise:  

 

[spindrift]

50 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Parker says otherwise:  

 

Cut square, plus or minus 15°.

[rickeieio]

Yup.  Square is 90 degrees, not + or - 15.  Look at the line in the beginning of the video.  You can see the line where the sealing surface used to be before he cuts it.

The important thing is that you make a clean cut, and the oring is resting against smooth tube.  The end of the tube doesn't even need to touch the bottom of the fitting.

Edited January 5 by rickeieio

[Ray,IN]

4 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Parker says otherwise:  

 

Listen closely at the 37 second mark, he says it's important the end is cut square. Later he says +or- 15°, it can't be both unless he is qualifying that cheaply made tubing cutter is only that accurate.

As to disconnecting tubing, I use an open-end wrench to hold the collar in while removing the tubing.  I always use a new O-ring when replacing the tubing too, the old one usually is flat-spotted where it griped the tubing.  That has been discussed here previously.

Edited January 5 by Ray,IN

[jenandjon]

How many of us has a tubing cutter and how many of our old eyes can even tell if it's a 90 or 85 degrees just by looking. 

I cut it with whatever sharp tool I have handy and if it's pretty square it gets used. 

[rickeieio]

9 minutes ago, jenandjon said:

How many of us has a tubing cutter and how many of our old eyes can even tell if it's a 90 or 85 degrees just by looking. 

I cut it with whatever sharp tool I have handy and if it's pretty square it gets used. 

Bingo.  The angle of the end is immaterial, so long as the sealing surface around the perimeter is engaged. Take a good look at a P-T-C fitting.  The end of the tube isn't a sealing surface at all.

Many of us remember Scrap.  He used to drop by and provide us with correct answers, and links.  He's the one who told us about Parker's 15 degree tolerance years ago.

[Deezl Smoke]

 I have a tubing cutter....................................somewhere,..........................just never where I need it when I need it.

 Seems the higher quality of the ptc, the more tolerant it is to the cut quality of the tubing.

[spindrift]

And to think I've always used a carpenter's square for a quality cut....😉

[GeorgiaHybrid]

I just use one of these. Works on pretty much anything that will fit in the jaws.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-11420-Hose-Cutter/dp/B0002NYB6O/ref=asc_df_B0002NYB6O&mcid=63c194d7dcd032c4b03a06f78efa3fd1?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588794310&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115543712&psc=1

[SuiteSuccess]

I use something like this.  Mine is Kobalt.

[Deezl Smoke]

12 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

I just use one of these. Works on pretty much anything that will fit in the jaws.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-11420-Hose-Cutter/dp/B0002NYB6O/ref=asc_df_B0002NYB6O&mcid=63c194d7dcd032c4b03a06f78efa3fd1?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989588794310&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589115543712&psc=1

 That style cutter is the best I've ever used. "when sharp" they can be used in tight places where you only have room for one hand to get to the hose/tubing. Very low effort needed to do the cutting too. 

  I probably should'nt say this as it is dangerous, but here on the farm, we use various hoses as abrasion guards for important wires and hoses. To install said hose protector, we have to slit the hose. So this style cutter is the most common here on our farm.

 

[rickeieio]

14 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

here on the farm, we use various hoses as abrasion guards for important wires and hoses

I'd bet you have a stash of old garden hose for just such jobs.  I once ran copper tune through garden hose to make a very long battery cable.  Crude, but effective.

[rickeieio]

I was recently asked a question about overhead clearances on public roads.  I responded that I believe any clearance under 13' 6" must be marked as low clearance.  True or false?

[Larry Burkett]

True.

[spindrift]

Setting a battery on concrete drains it.

[Deezl Smoke]

10 hours ago, spindrift said:

Setting a battery on concrete drains it.

 Oh, very good myth. Back in the day of tar tops and those older tech batteries, there was some truth to the draining when set on concrete, or so I was shown. Hence, the habit of setting the battery on a wood block when stored on a concrete floor.

 I have an old tar top tester. I'll see if I can get a picture and post it.

 My dad was drafted into the army during the "Korean conflict" and was stationed in Alaska. During the cold of winter there, mom and dad would take the battery out of the car and carry it into the house when not being used.

 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe most of the concrete drain was from the old technology when vented and refillable batteries were the  norm.? Modern battery tech with sealed, non-refillable lead acids, the material used in the new cases is nearly or maybe even, 100% non-conductive? Whereas the old tech, the cases had some conductivity?

[Deezl Smoke]

17 hours ago, rickeieio said:

I was recently asked a question about overhead clearances on public roads.  I responded that I believe any clearance under 13' 6" must be marked as low clearance.  True or false?

 So, without looking it up online, I believe 14' is the federal limit? And anything under has to be stated with signage? So even 13'6", though not low clearance, has to be stated prior to the last detour.?

 When I bought an older 12'6" van trailer for storage years ago, in discussion with the seller, it was said that most states east of the mighty Mississippi, have to this day, many 12'6" bridges and over passes, or even lower? West of the Mississippi, 14' is the engineering norm, with 13'6" trailers also being the norm.?

[Jaydrvr]

32 minutes ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 So, without looking it up online, I believe 14' is the federal limit? And anything under has to be stated with signage? So even 13'6", though not low clearance, has to be stated prior to the last detour.?

 When I bought an older 12'6" van trailer for storage years ago, in discussion with the seller, it was said that most states east of the mighty Mississippi, have to this day, many 12'6" bridges and over passes, or even lower? West of the Mississippi, 14' is the engineering norm, with 13'6" trailers also being the norm.?

Rule of thumb as I worked nationwide, everything east of the Mississippi is 13'6", almost everything west of the Mississippi is 14'. That holds pretty well true as long as you're on normal truck routes. The only place I saw significant deviations from this was in the northeast, NY being the most difficult to navigate. Then, for a long time, NY intentionally undercut the numbers on their signage to minimize liability, so you had no idea what the clearance actually was. I was delivering to Brooklyn in the early nineties and the huge sign said 12' 6", but all truck traffic was going there anyway. I asked a traffic cop about it and she said, yeah, they're all like that. Just ignore them. Easier said than done.... Jay

[spindrift]

47 minutes ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 Oh, very good myth. Back in the day of tar tops and those older tech batteries, there was some truth to the draining when set on concrete, or so I was shown. Hence, the habit of setting the battery on a wood block when stored on a concrete floor.

 I have an old tar top tester. I'll see if I can get a picture and post it.

 My dad was drafted into the army during the "Korean conflict" and was stationed in Alaska. During the cold of winter there, mom and dad would take the battery out of the car and carry it into the house when not being used.

 Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe most of the concrete drain was from the old technology when vented and refillable batteries were the  norm.? Modern battery tech with sealed, non-refillable lead acids, the material used in the new cases is nearly or maybe even, 100% non-conductive? Whereas the old tech, the cases had some conductivity?

This myth's origins was true.  Today, I believe it's the hard casings that prevent discharge.  But the myth continues.

[rickeieio]

35 minutes ago, spindrift said:

This myth's origins was true.  Today, I believe it's the hard casings that prevent discharge.  But the myth continues.

I was told long ago that myth is true, because the old batteries had a case made of rubber, which is slightly conductive.  In our old shop, there were boards on the floor at the battery prep/charge station.

Just last week, I was helping grandson with his dump trailer battery.  He had no idea the top could be removed to add (distilled) water to the cells.

[Ray,IN]

12 hours ago, Deezl Smoke said:

 So, without looking it up online, I believe 14' is the federal limit? And anything under has to be stated with signage? So even 13'6", though not low clearance, has to be stated prior to the last detour.?

 When I bought an older 12'6" van trailer for storage years ago, in discussion with the seller, it was said that most states east of the mighty Mississippi, have to this day, many 12'6" bridges and over passes, or even lower? West of the Mississippi, 14' is the engineering norm, with 13'6" trailers also being the norm.?

13'6" East of the big river, 14' West of the Mississippi. but at least 1 route must be 16'. Design standards require 16'

reference: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interstate_Highway_standards

Edited January 9 by Ray,IN