Deezl Smoke

That ain't going anywhere. That formed channel that you fastened into draws structure from all around.

And then put a heavy frozen food item in there, and it would easy out weigh a 25lb AC.

Definitely would use mobile AC hose and bulkheads at the sleeper floor. Because the need is likely less than 100 hours a years, my concern is not really worth the effort, but would be mounting the condenser horizontal. I have a diesel bunk heater that I like, so wont need the mini for heat. My travel style at this point would only need the AC for sleeping. I wont likely be at the rig during the day. No pets or children.

My main living quarters is in the truck sleeper. It's a newer model Peterbilt, that has a factory installed TV mount. The factory installed "smart air" system is sub par at best. It is a 12vDC mini split of sorts. It has a remote mount condenser with fan etc. So I have been considering a small 110vAC mini split that would run either on the generator when boon docking, or on grid at a park. I'm a weekend warrior, not a full timer. Looking around I can find 9k btu units everywhere, and a few 6k btu units which is plenty, but i need reasonable quality to take the abuse of driving mobile. Most of the small units that list weights, show about 25lbs for the evaporator unit inside. I don't own any TV and can not seem to find much on the weights of a TV that one would usually mount on a TV arm style mount. Some flat screen 32" show about 25 to 30lbs shipping weight. What are your thoughts on a modern truck sleeper frame work supporting a 25lb mini split inside unit? I can remove the arm part and mount it closer to the wall using the mounting frame of the sleeper if needed.

Saw a green WS towing a nice 5er today near Hillsboro Oregon just south of US26 at exit 57. Anyone here resemble that description?

Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. The rig in my avitar was a 6.2L that I later swapped out for a 454cid. Easiest swap ever. 3 line fuel pump, ignition power to the coil, and homemade radiator hoses. Throttle cable, just a simple part swap. The torque converter on the 6.2 has different perimeters, but still works. The 6.2 has a vacuum pump to operate the trans and hvac, so simple to plumb that hose in the manifold on the 454.

Just more fuel for this type of fire.

It's fun to know where the number came from.

"Myth: it’s horsepower not torque." Bar none one of my favorites.👍 Why do the hp and torque graph curves cross at roughly 5252 rpm?

I have a small 20 acres in Christmas valley on 5-14 just east about 6.5 miles from town. I have a small gravel rv pad on it. I love driving 78. Went through Rome and viewed the pillars etc driving up 95. I personally like 395 south from the Wagontire intersection, and 140 east. But I've only been to Denio junction. I'll have a look at 80 and see if any passes are clear.

LOLOLMAO!!🤣

The "95" I'm using starts up about Kingsgate Idaho, actually further north, but for USA, Kingsgate Idaho, then south through Quartzsite. So maybe my lack of knowledge on the highway system is showing here. Could it be US 95 that still goes interstate?

On I95 or the old 95 which I think they call SR95 now?

100% That's why I have a sunny desert on my driver's side and a moon lit desert on the passenger's side of my rig.

I'm hoping to get out of here (Hillsboro Oregon) maybe later this week, and find some sunshine for a day. Looking at the forecasts, the I5 Siskiyou pass looks clear, and the return passes going north on 95 look ok enough at this point. So If I were to get to Quartzsite, I see SR95 from Quartzsite up to I40 looks like a more scenic drive. But I'm asking if anyone knows the condition of the road and/or if it is worth it, or just stay on the interstates? My travel style is different than most. At this point in my traveling career I am more interested in the macro view from my driver's seat, than the time exploring the micros of an area on a motorcycle, e-bike or quad etc. That may come later. Thanks for any tips or warnings. This would be my first time so far south.

I have no opinion, just figured this video by Steve Lehto (MI lemon law attorney) might be interesting.

Fireball tool made a video about 2 years ago using an old shaper to test the old file backwards myth. Normally I'd post a link, but I can't seem to get the video to play on youtube. It just opens then goes white screen. But if you search youtube for fireball tool file, it should come up. It was a very interesting video. I'll not spoil the results, you'll have to watch it.😉 Ok, it was my computer. I got it to play. So here's the link.

And,....check with your insurance company. You may need to do some real research and changes to your insurance needs over all. It's important to find a good, experienced agent that can guide you through the process. It can be truly amazing how much can be saved when your agent knows how to combine policies. Then, look into a roadside service program. Some can use AAA, some Sam's club, and many, like me, use Coachnet.

So I'm not sure if this statement I am making is myth or fact, but IIRC, DOT ratings for tire speed and other applications, are minimum 2x safety rated, possibly 3x. So the 75mph rating at max advertised load, on average, in approved testing environments should not fail until a minimum of 150mph. Now I am certain that temperature and other variables are considered, but in lab testing under guidelines approved by DOT, the 75mph is half or less of "lab test" failure speed.? I honestly do not know, just what I remember "hearing" years back. Likely myth, but.... For no real good reason, I seem to, on average, take my steer tire conditions and pressures more seriously than the drives. IE: I tend to run them, though lower than marked on the tire, higher than what I would run for ride quality. I am lighter on the steers than most here, and much of that is because I am still tandem drive and have some weight behind the drive trunnion.

WOW, that was an awesome deal. You don't have to store that axle and you got the drive installed. Were you able to keep any tires or wheels from the front axle?

Yep. Though it won't always go back into solution 100%, which is where issues can rise. Letting the container, large or small, sit in the sun can also oxidized the solution. I've melted a fair bit of dry fertilizers into water over the years. Some exothermic, and some endothermic. Mixing urea with water (in an ag setting) would form a lot of ice outside the vat. Personally, I'm not as much concerned about the brand of the def, as I am about how long it's been sitting on the shelf,....outside in the weather,....with the box faded and the foil seal compromised because of it.

Seems to depend on the design of the def system as to what quality def is tolerable. Our 2 pieces of farm equipment new enough to require def, are much more forgiving than my Peterbilt rv. Once jugs of def have sat here long enough, I dump them into the farm equipment and have not had an issue. But I have to run fresh def (I have found a few suppliers that sell enough volume to never have it on the shelf for but a few days) in the Pete with it's Cummins scr. I have heard far more complaints with def issues in Cummins and Paccar than Detroit or Volvo. But that could be a local thing, I'm at the west coast.

I did not download anything or open any files, just the email on hotmail. So I too will delete it.

I would say you hit the nail square on. I did participate for a while on iRV2. I saw the social knowledge at the bottom of the screen when I googled rvlife pro. So I'm think'n you hit just what happened. Thank you.

I received an email to the correct address, but using my screen name, not my real name, from RVLIFE pro, stating that my membership is due. What is RVLIFE? Before I click on anything, I figure I best ask here. I have never subscribed to anything with a fee using my screen name on a forum.