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Best Penetrating Oil?????


Vegas Teacher

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So what it the best penetrating oil / spray on the market?

I have looked at O'Riley, Autozone, Lowes, Homedepot and Manard's along with Amazon. I have found many of the minimum wage earning clerks to be less than helpful.

I have looked at the following brands

1. Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL)

2. PB Blaster

3. Free All

I figure somebody out there will have an opinion. Or should I just get a torch and heat up any bolts and go after them with a 1 inch impact? I am starting to make out my Christmas list LOL!

Vegas Teacher - Cory Ossana 

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Kroil - IF you can find it. Otherwise 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid - Any kind will do) and acetone. Acetone is available at paint stores, lowes, home depot. A mixed pint will last about 40 years. Not really, mix small amounts so the stuff doesn't go "flat" and lose it's penetrating property. Remember when you break down and get the fireaxe out, the stuff is flammable, so exercise caution. 

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540311379&sr=8-4&keywords=kroil+penetrating+oil&dpID=416kxyRAYML&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

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9 minutes ago, adept99 said:

Kroil - IF you can find it. Otherwise 50/50 mix of ATF (automatic transmission fluid - Any kind will do) and acetone. Acetone is available at paint stores, lowes, home depot. A mixed pint will last about 40 years. Not really, mix small amounts so the stuff doesn't go "flat" and lose it's penetrating property. Remember when you break down and get the fireaxe out, the stuff is flammable, so exercise caution. 

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1540311379&sr=8-4&keywords=kroil+penetrating+oil&dpID=416kxyRAYML&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

Thanks,

That would be easy to keep on hand and in the truck under the cab, in separate containers until needed. 

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I've watched several YouTube videos on this, and never saw the same results.  There are many good ones, but I prefer Kroil, to the point that I buy it in the 5 gallon can and fill my own applicators.  PB Blaster is pretty good, as are Rust Aid and several others.  WD 40 is a waste of time and money, except for removing adhesives.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
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10 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

I've watched several YouTube videos on this, and never saw the same results.  There are many good ones, but I prefer Kroil, to the point that I buy it in the 5 gallon can and fill my own applicators.  PB Blaster is pretty good, as are Rust Aid and several others.  WD 40 is a waste of time and money, except for removing adhesives.

Vegas Flyer swears by Kroil also.

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While a good penetrating fluid is helpful, the cautious application of heat is also helpful, along with " shock therapy". ( big hammer/ chisel)

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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2 hours ago, rickeieio said:

I've watched several YouTube videos on this, and never saw the same results.  There are many good ones, but I prefer Kroil, to the point that I buy it in the 5 gallon can and fill my own applicators.  PB Blaster is pretty good, as are Rust Aid and several others.  WD 40 is a waste of time and money, except for removing adhesives.

WD40 will however rejuvenate the rubber rollers in you printer so it will pick up the paper out of the tray much better.

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11 minutes ago, Parrformance said:

WD40 will however rejuvenate the rubber rollers in you printer so it will pick up the paper out of the tray much better.

You got me.  It's also good for keeping your stainless appliances purdy.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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I don't recommend keeping acetone in the truck it is very flamable is  even more toxic. Put a can of pb blast or your favorite in the tool box not something you have to mix for on the road use. I understand WD 40 stands for Water Displacing formula #40. It was ment to dry out wet military parts quickly and leave a light film of oil behind. Legend has it that the government employees worked on it umtill they got it right #40 and then droped the project only to come out with it on there own. Who know.

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After spending 22 years as an auto technician I will tell you In-Force by BG is my go to penetrating oil and PB Blaster is also a great penetrating oil. 

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Best penetrating oil I have ever used was some military surplus synthetic turbine oil. Came in metal cans.

In these modern times I usually use PB blaster. WD 40 works good to degum sawblades and keep them from rusting.

The couple times I have tried atf/acetone, I have not been able to get them to mix.

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Best stuff I ever used was the purple  liquid the Navy Non Destruct Test (NDT) guys used looking from cracks.  Stuff was so thin it would soak through your skin!  Had a small bottle that lasted  me twenty plus years.  Probably still used but not for us civilians.  Sorry,, don't know what it was called.

Lenp

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11 hours ago, Lance A Lott said:

I don't recommend keeping acetone in the truck it is very flamable is  even more toxic. Put a can of pb blast or your favorite in the tool box not something you have to mix for on the road use.

EXCELLENT advice! 

The Acetone ATF (Preferably Dexron Mercon) is great for the shop - but NOT something to carry with you.

Acetone = Extremely flammable, toxic, and rapidly evaporates!! (And expensive).

Many, many xln't commercial alternates some already mentioned, some not.

Check the CRC website for their (several) Penetrating Oil Products:  "Freeze Off Super Penetrant",  "Knock'Er Loose", "Screwloose Super Penetrating Oil".

PB Blaster is also great for spraying on dis-similar metals prior to assembly, ex: aluminum wheels to cast iron brake drums.  Prevents the corrosion which may require some serious "persuasion" at a later date to remove wheel.

Seafoam Deep Creep is another xlnt penetrating  oil.

An old Navy remedy for salt rusted items is/was Oil of Wintergreen - although I've never tried it.  BUT - *IF* it does work- your shop or? will sure smell good!

.

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9 hours ago, lenp said:

Best stuff I ever used was the purple  liquid the Navy Non Destruct Test (NDT) guys used looking from cracks.  Stuff was so thin it would soak through your skin!  Had a small bottle that lasted  me twenty plus years.  Probably still used but not for us civilians.  Sorry,, don't know what it was called.

Lenp

Dykem Blue Layout fluid mixed with acetone, lacquer thinner, or another solvent is probably what the Navy used.  A little quart bottle could paint 50000sqft.

https://www.grainger.com/product/DYKEM-Layout-Fluid-2C945

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Has anybody ever tried a couple of drops of muriatic acid? My educational background has 30 hours in a chemistry lab. If you are not getting around paint or parts that will be seen I wonder if this would work. I know it is easy to find at Lowe's or Home Depot in the pool supply area and sold two gallons at a time. I was thinking of using an eye dropper and applying it to rusted bolts. I know it takes rust off in a heart beat. I have used it to clean cast iron parts many times, and to clean rust off of my fire pit cover, makes it look new.

Oh well just a thought, this is when having spent time in a chemistry lab in college might be a bad thing LOL!

 

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2 hours ago, Vegas Teacher said:

Has anybody ever tried a couple of drops of muriatic acid? My educational background has 30 hours in a chemistry lab. If you are not getting around paint or parts that will be seen I wonder if this would work. I know it is easy to find at Lowe's or Home Depot in the pool supply area and sold two gallons at a time. I was thinking of using an eye dropper and applying it to rusted bolts. I know it takes rust off in a heart beat. I have used it to clean cast iron parts many times, and to clean rust off of my fire pit cover, makes it look new.

Oh well just a thought, this is when having spent time in a chemistry lab in college might be a bad thing LOL!

 

.......problem is the  *quantity*  you need to purchase .

Easy acid test:  Some swear by ... Regular Coca Cola (the stuff you drink) - due to it's acidity

Fer sure it's cheap & EZ to test.......and drink what's left.

Of course...... *IF* it works...you might want to switch to Dr. Pepper, or?

Any old car forum like H.A.M.B is full of poster's "favorite" Penetrating Oil threads. If you're trying to "save" (restore) a Model A that has been sitting in a farmer's field for 50 years (or more) you gain lots of experience!

Ditto for tractor restorations.

BTW - an alternate to Acetone & ATF is Acetone and (regular) brake fluid. "Old style" ATF has morphed into various synthetic blends since the TQ test was first published (everywhere) many years ago.

 

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The acid in Coca Cola is phosphoric acid, same as in Naval Jelly or Wood Life.  It dissolves rust, but leaves no lubrication to ease rotation of the offending fastener.

Like beemergary, I sometimes employ a little heat and thermal shock.  A smart rapp with a hammer and chisel can also collapse rust and expand a nut just a bit.  Just don't booger the threads.

Operating a grain farm, I get too much practice at this........

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio@yahoo.com

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