Portable AC Units?

[sheldons65]

We have a 40.5 foot Montana with a 13K in bedroom and 15k in living room. We also have bunkhouse layout which I converted to office. Don’t have the budget to add 3rd rooftop AC. Have taken steps to insulate better. Window unit not compatible.

Any experience with a decent portable AC unit where you vent hose through a window? FYI we would insulate the hosel.

[k4rs]

I had a portable AC unit to supplement the cooling in our 38 foot 5th wheel.  It needed all the help it could get because the rig was poorly insulated and the single 13.5 rooftop AC struggled in the summer.   I was able to remove an outside speaker, leaving the grill in place and hooked the exhaust hose to the hole.  When we wanted to use the portable AC we simply opened the outside speaker hatch door and powered up the AC.

We have not needed the extra cooling with our current rig.  We learned our lesson and got upgraded insulation.  I have a vent that should be usable in case we ever do need it in the future.  

While portable units are fairly easy to install, they are really not as efficient as the rooftop AC or window units as they draw in warm outside air rather than recycle the inside air.  The convenience and low profile of a portable unit out weigh that negative for us.

Safe Travels...

[trailertraveler]

10 hours ago, k4rs said:

While portable units are fairly easy to install, they are really not as efficient as the rooftop AC or window units as they draw in warm outside air rather than recycle the inside air. 

We have an LG portable AC. It has air intakes on the back and side with dust filters that collect debris on the outside of the filter so it must be sucking air from the room. It only has one exhaust hose that constantly pumps out the hot air. The one we have does not require a hose to drain the condensation.

Edited July 18, 2023 by trailertraveler

[lappir]

I recently saw a "Window" unit that was similar to a mini split. Had the indoor and outdoor unit but used the window to separate with I'm assuming the transfer tubes and electric the only thing passing through the small section where the window could be almost closed between. Sure they are made for Sticks and brick type homes and the "sash" windows, but I'm sure most on this site could "Make something work".

If I find the article I'll link it here later. 

 

Rod

[Kirk W]

How Do Portable Air Conditioners Work?

[Ray,IN]

Read this thread about installing a portable A/C unit in a cabinet.

Edited July 18, 2023 by Ray,IN

[Lou Schneider]

4 hours ago, lappir said:

I recently saw a "Window" unit that was similar to a mini split. Had the indoor and outdoor unit but used the window to separate with I'm assuming the transfer tubes and electric the only thing passing through the small section where the window could be almost closed between. Sure they are made for Sticks and brick type homes and the "sash" windows, but I'm sure most on this site could "Make something work".

If I find the article I'll link it here later. 

 

Rod

I bought one of those for my workshop - it's essentially a mini-split without the connecting cables.  Works great.  It's not a new concept, I had a similar one 40 years ago but it lacked the modern features like easy start, etc.  12k BTU was on sale for $310 at Costco just before the heat started.  It's very quiet as the the compressor and fan noise are isolated outside by the window, or in my case an insulated panel I built to go in place of the window.

[GlennWest]

home depot has a Media mini split window unit. $500.00. pulls 12 amps max. 

[vermilye]

22 hours ago, GlennWest said:

home depot has a Media mini split window unit. $500.00. pulls 12 amps max. 

I have a 8000 BTU Midea window split AC at home ($379.00 at Amazon).  It is an inverter powered compressor so most of the time it draws well under the maximum.  Very quiet, and it can be controller vis Bluetooth or WiFi.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08677DCKN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The only problem I've had with it is sealing around the split well enough to keep the bugs out.

Edited July 19, 2023 by vermilye

[sheldons65]

Thanks but not enough space to install with major modifications.

[Wrknrvr]

   I am curious if your return air vents filters are clean.

 

  If you have the circular vents, one side is cool air. The other side is the return air. They have a filter in them. Take a flashlight and shine up into the vents and see is they are clean or dirty.

   If they need cleaning, just pull down on the center, while rotating just a tad.

    Also if you have a thermal thermometer, you can see if your return cold air is 18 degrees or more colder than the return air.

 

   Also has the rooftop AC units been cleaned on the fins in the last year.

 

     Just some things to think about. Before getting your portable AC unit.

[sheldons65]

4 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

   I am curious if your return air vents filters are clean.

 

  If you have the circular vents, one side is cool air. The other side is the return air. They have a filter in them. Take a flashlight and shine up into the vents and see is they are clean or dirty.

   If they need cleaning, just pull down on the center, while rotating just a tad.

    Also if you have a thermal thermometer, you can see if your return cold air is 18 degrees or more colder than the return air.

 

   Also has the rooftop AC units been cleaned on the fins in the last year.

 

     Just some things to think about. Before getting your portable AC unit.

Those are good questions. This Montana has a ducted type AC system with 2 square intakes for the front and 2 square intakes for the back.  The ducting also brings them both together for outlets. Here is what we have done.

- ducts can be prone to collapse, recognized fix/hack performed using PVC

- thermal HVAC tape checked and applied where needed around outside of vents. Basically making sure it's done correctly

- Intake filters of proper material type and cleaned regularly

- Internal fins cleaned several times the past 2 years using that spray can stuff made for such jobs. They were relatively clean. Also inspected complete systems on roof for any areas that don't seal well. Any outside debris cleaned as well. 

- Every other louvre cut from outlets as another recommended hack for this AC. There's also a round part of the outlets that sticks up too high into the ducts. Cut those down using a dremel t be closer to the bottom of the ducts. 

- Gas heat intakes covered covered with that silver thermal bubble wrap insulation

- Considering switching to heat outlets in the floor which allow you to close them (that wheel you can turn to open and close)

- Infrared thermometer for checking wheel hubs is also handy for AC. Average a 20 to 22 degree difference between inlet and outlet. Bedroom cooling works well so we put a fan blowing down the hall to living   

- Have bunkhouse office with no cooling outlets

From a complete system viewpoint it seems like we need a bit extra AC added to the design. 

Edited July 20, 2023 by sheldons65

[Wrknrvr]

 Run the AC units on high fan all the time.

 

  Many years ago Dometic told me to do that. I am still a dealer for them. Although I only use my dealer parts for technical advice.

[sheldons65]

18 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

 Run the AC units on high fan all the time.

 

  Many years ago Dometic told me to do that. I am still a dealer for them. Although I only use my dealer parts for technical advice.

We had upgraded to Micro Air Easy Touch thermostats. They are awesome by the way. In hotter climates we run both on manual high. However, the auto setting actually works likes it's supposed to. 

https://www.microair.net/

[RV_]

On 7/21/2023 at 9:26 AM, sheldons65 said:

We had upgraded to Micro Air Easy Touch thermostats. They are awesome by the way. In hotter climates we run both on manual high. However, the auto setting actually works likes it's supposed to. 

https://www.microair.net/

Both posts excellent advice for beginners. As well we found the divider under the ceiling A/C plenum between the warm air intake and cold air outlets to the ducts was haphazardly installed and the cold air was going directly over to the intake. Once we replaced the foam seals and installed it properly and removed the flap of roofing the factory left over the vent going to the bedroom it actually worked. Also seal and aluminum tape over any holes in the rooftop sheet metal shroud around the unit under the A/C root cover. That can also keep odors out from black water tanks being circulated when the A/C runs. Had that happen to a member here in Mexico years ago.

[justRich]

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DLPUWL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  was listed number one on Amazon choices.
I ordered one and expect it to be here on the 24th (tomorrow)

 

[sheldons65]

13 hours ago, justRich said:

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DLPUWL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1  was listed number one on Amazon choices.
I ordered one and expect it to be here on the 24th (tomorrow)

 

Please let me know how it goes.

[justRich]

On 7/23/2023 at 7:32 PM, sheldons65 said:

Please let me know how it goes.

The portable AC arrived Tuesday and I set it up Wednesday morning.  First thing is that it is louder than I would like - I would not try sleeping with it on.  It's in a small spare bedroom with the door closed and brought the temperature down to about 70 degrees.  

For comparison, I have a truck camper (mounted) and I leave the AC on 24/7 and set at 82 degrees.  With the slideout in for conservation purposes, the best that AC could do was 84 degrees during the heat of the day.  The camper is sitting in direct sun all day.  

I measured the portable output vent temperature at 46 degrees this morning.  It's definitely frigid air.  When entering the room it feels much cooler after one hour of running it.  
In all fairness, I just got it and don't have enough experience with it to say "I love it".  
The house has it's own central air AC and the purpose of the portable unit is to chill a bedroom down to below 70 degrees for sleeping purposes.  I would not leave it running at night.

Installation is simple.  I watched a couple of YouTube videos and read through the instruction manual. 
The YouTube videos had very minor errors or omissions but were helpful.
Actual installation took maybe ten minutes in a standard casement window.  I did not permanently affix the window vent assembly (yet). 
The exhaust hose is a six inch diameter - a bit bulky and it radiates a small amount of heat from the exhaust going through it.  
The portable works on a 15 amp outlet.  I have no gripes about the quality.  For the price and ease of installation it's a keeper.  As for extended usefulness and reliability, time will tell.
 

 

[Ray,IN]

8 hours ago, justRich said:

  I would not leave it running at night.

 

 

We trained ourselves to sleep with a white noise machine running, which worked out great.  We could overnight in a rest area with HDT's idling right beside the RV and their noise didn't bother our sleep.

If you can do the same listening to your portable A/C unit, it might work out to your advantage.

[sandsys]

More than once we used a fan as a white noise machine in a motel. That worked well.

Linda

[Rotorhead]

There are several different manufacturers of 12v A/C systems that can be installed. They are about 900$. I don't know if that would be a route worth considering? 

 

[Ray,IN]

Here is another option: https://www.pioneerminisplit.com/products/pioneer-9-000-btu-under-bench-rv-heat-pump-air-conditioner?variant=39894059122730&currency=USD

I've no clue why they refer to it as a mini-split, it's an all in one cabinet unit.

 

Edited July 29, 2023 by Ray,IN

[Chalkie]

12 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

Here is another option: https://www.pioneerminisplit.com/products/pioneer-9-000-btu-under-bench-rv-heat-pump-air-conditioner?variant=39894059122730&currency=USD

I've no clue why they refer to it as a mini-split, it's an all in one cabinet unit.

 

This one looks very interesting to me since it could be tied to existing furnace ducts to supplement both heating and cooling.

[Ray,IN]

On 7/29/2023 at 11:45 AM, Chalkie said:

This one looks very interesting to me since it could be tied to existing furnace ducts to supplement both heating and cooling.

I agree. In a MH the hardest part would be installing the condensate drain. the air ductwork installed as you said would be a tremendous aid.

If an RV has a booth dinette, under a seat would be a great location for installation.

[Chalkie]

10 hours ago, Ray,IN said:

I agree. In a MH the hardest part would be installing the condensate drain. the air ductwork installed as you said would be a tremendous aid.

If an RV has a booth dinette, under a seat would be a great location for installation.

I was thinking in my fifth wheel right next the existing furnace. Since the ventilation and drainage are all on the bottom that would place it between the frame rails and close to wiring and the existing ductwork. In my RV that would also be the space where the central vac unit, that I never use, resides. So it could go away and the electrical feeding the vac could be used as it has its own breaker in the panel. The only two issues I see would be designing some sort of door or deflector to keep road stuff and splash out and finding someone to install it for me.