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trailertraveler's Achievements

  1. I guess it is semantics, but I do not consider staying in a parking lot boondocking. Staying in an unattended lot in an urban area would, to me, seem to present far greater risks than staying in the actual boondocks. Even more secure locations like Walmart and Lowes make the news with some frequency these days although the incidents rarely involve RVers. I believe, there is both BLM and Forest Service land open to dispersed camping in the Alamogordo area. The Free Campsites Website lists some of them. Contact an agency office or search online. For the National Forests get the Motor Vehicle Use Maps (MVUM) to locate dispersed camping areas. I know of at least one Harvest Host location in Tularosa. Also checkout Boondockers Welcome.
  2. I do not think the Go's will update beyond the 7.0.8 firmware. I have two Go's and both are running the 7.0.8 and show no updates available when I have checked for updates. My Spruce had updated to the 7.0.9 firmware a few weeks before this latest release and my current problem.
  3. The standard 7 pin trailer wiring harness does include a wire for connection of the tow vehicle battery to the trailer battery. Whether that wire in the wiring harness is connected by the tow vehicle manufacturer has varied by year and manufacture. Whether there is power to the trailer all the time or only when the engine is running or the key is in the accessary on position may also vary. For example, my 2004 Chevy Silverado came from the factory without the hot wire connected and no fuse in the slot for the connection. If I remember correctly, there was only power when the engine was running or accessories on. My 2018 Silverado came with the hot wire connected and hot all the time. This means that the truck batteries can provide power to the trailer all the time, but also means that leaving the trailer connected can draw down the truck batteries over time. If you have a test light or volt meter, it is easy to test whether and when there is power to the trailer. Connect the light or meter to the hot terminal and the ground at the trailer plug in. Which terminal is which may be shown on the cover of the 7 pin connector on the vehicle.
  4. The instructions on the Service Ticket Request Form say the ID number could be found on the sticker on the router. There is only one sticker on my Spruce. Since I can not access the Control Panel, telling me the ID number is on the control panel is not of any help. The Service Request Form wants 6 numbers so having only four of them would not satisfy the mandatory field requirement. Thanks for your comments.
  5. I do not have a roof top Ranger. I was using a tethered cellphone connection that tested 20+MBS. I opened a ticket, however the ID on my Spruce is not six digits it is 3 letters, 2 numbers and a letter (RBD52G). The website would not accept that ID so I had to make up a number in order to get the ticket to generate. I tried the 4 reboot (9:30 minute) reboot method with no luck in being able to get the Spruce to come to life.
  6. I got an email from WIfI Ranger that there was a firmware update, My Spruce had been running for several days and stated update available. I cllcked on the update bar. The download started and stopped at 5%. The control panel said Cloud not available try again. I could not get back to the control panel. My computer says unidentified network or identifying and the notice keeps appearing and disappearing as if the router is going on and off. I tried resetting to defaults with no effect. The spruce seems to bbe bricked.
  7. Welcome to the Escapes Forum!!! By this do you mean you can not keep up with the care of your home financially or physically? As mentioned RVs can require a considerable amount of maintenance and repair. In my experience, service and repair of an RV is on a a par with or more expensive than home or automotive repair or service. With limited space, access to the item needing repair can be limited and difficult. Some systems and appliances like the propane (gas absorption) refrigerators are very different from the usual home appliances. Based on experience with recent repair needs, RV service centers and mobile repair technicians seem to be very busy right now and wait times for service can be considerable. Parts availability is also an issue with both low inventories and slow delivery times contributing to the problem. It was mentioned that RVs are currently in high demand. As we have traveled from Florida to the mid-Atlantic and West to New Mexico this year, we have observed both nearly empty dealerships and some very large dealers with lots full of RVs so where you are located or intend to shop may affect what is available to you. You said you were looking at motorhomes, but did not mention whether you were considering a second means of transportation for local travel once at your destination(s). Do you currently have a vehicle that you plan to tow or trailer? This will require some research and add some expense for initial setup. Again, Welcome to the Escapees Forum!! and good luck with your search for the right RV for you.
  8. Thanks for the explanation! My unit does not have a remote or wind or rain sensors, therefore no control box just one in/out switch.
  9. You are lucky. Apparently, there have been so many problems with the 9200 that Dometic discontinued it and replacement parts are difficult or impossible to get. I have not found a second switch and am not sure what you are referring to as a "control box". The wires that feed the switch seem to run from the fuse panel to the switch and from the switch to the motor. The old motor will only run in one direction even when connected directly to a 12v source so it is bad. A new motor ran in both directions connected to a 12v source, but only in the out direction when connected to the switch. The pigtail running to the motor tested 13.4v with opposite polarity when the switch was pressed in or out.
  10. Where is the control box located? Is it in the In/out switch?
  11. The Dometic awning (a model 9200 I believe) will power out but not in even when connected directly to a 12 volt source. The switch has four wires. When a volt meter is connected to the two wire pigtail feeding the motor it reads 13.4 volts (trailer plugged into 120 AC) or -13.4 volts when the in or out direction of the switch is activated. Reversing the leads of the volt meter produces the same results but with reversed readings for the appropriate switch setting. This test was repeated numerous times always with the same results. When tested hot to ground (RV frame) both in and out test 13.4 volts. Here is my problem, a new motor works in both directions when connected directly to a 12 volt source, but will only work in the out direction when connected to the power wires from the in/out switch. Any ideas, comments, etc. would be greatly appreciated.
  12. We have a Roku TV. The apps update just like the ones on our Roku device. We still have Direct TV. If I have good cell signal and the terrain or tree cover will not permit signal or if I just don't feel like setting up the dish; I can sign into many of the Roku apps that are in my Direct TV subscription using my Direct TV pass word. Others I can sign into on my tablet and use the smart view feature in conjunction with the Roku to watch on the TV without using hotspot data. We also watch a number of the free streaming services like Pluto, Crackle, Filmrise, IMDb, Stremium, etc.
  13. This is a totally different issue and has no relationship to the operation of a ground fault. The Surge Guard or Progressive-EMS are both designed to protect your equipment from electrical issues that take place outside of your RV and keep them from entering the RV. A GFCI protects you from an electrical problem that takes place in some device which you have connected to that outlet or one of the downstream outlets that it protects. They serve entirely different functions with no effect of one on the other. Thanks for the responses Kirk! I understand that I raised two different issues. Actually three, including use of a grounding rod. I was interested in the reasons for/benefits of using the bonding plug, reasons to use the Surge Guard when using the generator and the need for a grounding rod. Sorry if my original post was not clear.
  14. I know the issue of bonding the ground and neutral on small generators has been discussed before. I did a search and found numerous discussions but did not see any mention of any impact on the function of the GFCI outlets. I saw mention of GFCIs not working (not resetting) on another internet discussion but it was not specifically an RV forum. I know that my Surge Guard will not pass the power without the ground/neutral bond plug. I have also seen various opinions on whether it is necessary to use a grounding rod when powering the RV. There was one comment about connecting the grounding lug on the generator to the frame of the trailer, but it was not clear whether this was instead of or in addition to a grounding rod. Several years ago I asked Yamaha about using the bonding plug and they recommended against it. South Wire, the manufacturer of Surge Guard, sells a bonding plug. Discussions on the internet range from never use an unbonded ground generator to power an RV to bonding is not necessary if no EMS system is in use. Any comments, references, suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Also, are there compelling reasons to use Surge Guard when on generator power?
  15. I believe Octoberfest in Daytona starts October 14. No telling what things will be like in 10 weeks. Could be better or could be worse. I am having a hard time trying to figure out what to do in the next two weeks. We stayed at Nova Family Campground in Port Orange a couple of years ago. Nothing fancy, but a nice quiet campground. Lots of water and electric and no hookups sites as well as full hookup.
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