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Can you solve this problem


Wrknrvr

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Looks like a homemade shim of some sort, perhaps to correct a worn bushing or shaft. With nothing to indicate the relative size, it's difficult to come up with a specific application though.

Dutch
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Or perhaps a plug.  He split it nearly to the end, but a little dab of rtv will do ya.

Edit:  Two things.  He's not shown us if the primer is still in place, or perhaps threaded.  And while he said it's for RV repair, and a jeep isn't generally considered and RV, I believe it is sitting on the jeep hood.

Edited by rickeieio

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I'm thinking either it was too small indiameter as a sleeve on the outside of a shaft and had to be sliced to remove it OR its too big in diameter and the slice will reduce the diameter just a little when pressed into place.

Dimensions of what is shown would tell another part of the story.

 

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  Well this piece of brass is a 45-70 cartridge case. Without the primer.    

 

  But it is involved in a RV repair. 

 

Like i said, thinking out of the box. I have been known to do that a lot. Some may even think I am not all there.

 

I will say the answers so far are very interesting. So now you know the dimensions, 2.1 “ long,  .460” in diameter.

  Since it is a tapered cartridge. Now that throws a wrench into the thinking.

  

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I spent my whole career thinking outside the box to find solutions for unusual problems on the fly and in a matter of minutes.  However, you're not giving us a problem to solve.  You're giving us a solution to some problem that you had and asking us to figure out what the problem was.  If you're going to play riddles, you could at least narrow it down to a category, like mechanical, appliance, structural, etc.  🙂

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 The problem is not solved yet. The RV will back in my area to fix this problem next week. That is if I can.

 

  This problem may need the use of a remote camera to accomplish this repair.

  The conventional way to fix this problem would require two days labor to fix it. Maybe a few hours extra.

   So I am figuring out how to fix it in two hours or less. That will include no swearing. I hope.

 

 

   

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I was thinking a faucet repair until I saw solder. The water system don't have copper.

After you last hint even your A/C system and Propane could be ruled out  Makes me think you an electrical terminal problem.  But anti-freeze? The misery is what would take 2 days versus 2 hours?

Clay 

Edited by ms60ocb

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   The picture above is the subject unit I need to work on. It is a Aquahot 100-02S heating unit.

   If you look on the top, center of this unit there is a radiator cap. Just like on a old tractor, truck or Jeep.

   The problem is the radiator filler neck has a vertical crack in it.

  What most likely caused the crack was someone had to shorten the hose that goes from the filler neck to the overflow tank. The end of that hose can deteriorate, leak fluid and eventually shut the unit off. That person apparently did not like the spring clamp that was there from new.  

   So that person put a screw type conventional hose clamp on it. But the screw area on the hose clamp was up high enough that when installing the radiator cap it apparently forced the cap to one side. Enough that it formed a vertical crack in the neck of the filler neck.

    Through the years of working on Aquahot unit that have caps I mostly see the filler neck bent from that screw type clamp installation. They can leak fluid from the bent area not sealing to the cap. Being careful the bent area can be straightened out.

 One time the cap hit the clamp on hose as in this unit and busted the drain hose nipple off the filler neck. Fun job to reach in there and solder the nipple back on the neck.   But it did work.

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     If the filler neck needs replaced the whole unit need to be removed.

  That normal requires the exhaust pipe be disconnected. Electrical wires to each fan at the heat exchangers, 110 vac wire, all hydronic heat and return lines need to be disconnected.

   Also water pump, water filters and exterior door, gas struts and strut mounting brackets removed. And misc. stuff needs removed. Remove antifreeze from unit.

   Pull unit out, remove stainless steel covering.

   Then replace that cracked neck.

 

   Then reverse that process. 

    After you have unit installed, then pump the antifreeze back in. Once you drain the fluid out of the unit. The heating loops may need primed with antifreeze. Might as well ad that into your time.  

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   So my thought was to just solder it. Now if this was on in old tractor, truck or Jeep. Just solder a new one in place.

   But as I described above that would involve a lot of time. I have removed these units before. So if one does this, take lots of pictures and notes.

 

     I was thinking if I had two thin pieces of brass that I could clean for soldering. Clamp them next to each other. Then try soldering in a vertical position.

   Heck just hacksaw a slot in a cartridge case. And I have one.

    So now I have the brass clamped down. Just like the radiator cap will be tight.     Now in real life situation on this job there is maybe 8” of clearance above the cap. And the unit is in the middle on the bay. There is access to the side of the unit.

    I do have a remote camera I am planning on having it laying on top of the Aquahot unit, showing the far side. Positioned back out of the way. But that I can see the other side.

    Also no torch to be used in bay area. Too much uncontrollable heat. And flame.

    In the picture of my solder job. You can see I fluxed, then tined the brass.  I will need to clean the crack itself. Either physically or with acid cleaner. Then sand the interior and exterior of the neck. Flux and tin the crack area. I did notice my practice soldering did not get on the other side of the brass.

  The thicker base was hard to solder with the soldering iron I was using. Until the thin area was being soldered. Then it went good. I plan on using silver solder for this job. 

   So now I will have the vertical crack soldered. Now to solder the top flange. Probably need to use a smaller heat range of soldering iron for that.

 

   I hope to get pictures of the job before and after work is done.

  So in my practice piece you can see the bottom of the cartridge case did not solder easy. Bottom of cartridge case is thicker than the upper portion of the case. But that gives me confidence as the filler neck should soldered to the tank. It would take a lot of heat to affect that part of the joint. At least I hope.

 

   This job may take place on Monday am, as the customer is traveling back this way and will be in a rv park until I get the situation solved.

 

   I will try my best to repair it this way.

  Epoxies have been considered. Any comments for helping me on this job would be appreciated.

 

   Vern

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I shuddered at the pic of the AquaHot. Been there, done that. They do pay good money for the yearly service, though.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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