rdickinson Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 Scrapping the max Brake and need to get a Directlink system. Where is the best place to pick one up? It would be installed here before the trip South. Brakes required. Any extra parts needed for an '09 Volvo D13? Rough cost please and thank you. Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morelli Posted September 28, 2018 Report Share Posted September 28, 2018 I have gotten my units direct and the staff was super nice and made sure everything needed to make it work was ordered and shipped. Their direct shipping has been fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted September 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 Thanks, direct from where. There are a mish mash of names on the internet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 Try..https://tusonrvbrakes.com/collections/direclink-brake-controller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 2 hours ago, Pug said: I have gotten my units direct and the staff was super nice and made sure everything needed to make it work was ordered and shipped. Their direct shipping has been fast. Pug, Is this what you ordered? https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/direclink-ne-and-act-1600-kit 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Av8r3400 Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 I got mine here. They had the best price at the time. Southwest Wheel Av8r34002012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die. -Leonard Perry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted September 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 Clearly the hydraulic requirement is not needed. Which of the other 2 is the one to get? I guess I'm ruling out 195$ Are there any other parts required to get this set up on the air truck to electric drum brakes on a triple axle? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DesertMiner Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/direclink-dl-100 https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/hd-truck-module-kit-9pin You will need these 2 pieces to make it work where you get the best price is your decision! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NeverEasy Posted September 29, 2018 Report Share Posted September 29, 2018 Is the Max Brake not working. If you replace it, I would like to acquire it even if it is not working. Chet Chet & Deb '01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart '19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel 2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed Retired CWO4, USN and federal service Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted September 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2018 If it comes to that then yes. Still trying to source problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted September 30, 2018 Report Share Posted September 30, 2018 Not trying to hijack, but before this thread closes. Can a DirectLink trailer be towed with a truck with another controller say a Hayes or Maxbrake and still have braking on the trailer? 2006 Volvo 780 "Hoss" Volvo D12, 465hp, 1650 ft/lbs tq., ultrashift Bed Build by "JW Morgan's Custom Welding" 2017 DRV 39DBRS3 2013 Smart Passion Coupe "Itty Bitty" "Don't go around saying the world owes you a living. The world owes you nothing. It was here first!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lance A Lott Posted September 30, 2018 Report Share Posted September 30, 2018 The trailer brakes remain unchanged so you can continue to pull it with anything you did previously. If you make changes to the trailer at the same time that answer may be different. I got mine from Mrtruck.com I had removed my obd plug to do something and did not get it back in tightly, I did not have trailer brakes for 250 miles. With the hdt I thought they were just out of ajustment. Manual braking worked fine. I felt stupid but the truck never had a problem with the trailer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alie&Jim's Carrilite Posted September 30, 2018 Report Share Posted September 30, 2018 6 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said: Not trying to hijack, but before this thread closes. Can a DirectLink trailer be towed with a truck with another controller say a Hayes or Maxbrake and still have braking on the trailer? The DL is just the truck side. Just like back in the old Pickup days you could plug in a Prodigy, Hayes, Reese, etc. Alie & Jim + 8 paws 2017 DRV Memphis BART- 1998 Volvo 610 Lil'ole 6cyl Cummins Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
noteven Posted September 30, 2018 Report Share Posted September 30, 2018 I use a DirecLink control on me 06 won ton Dodge. Connects to the OBD port and plugged right in to the factory trailer connection under the dash. In 7 or 8 years I’ve had 1 trouble the screen went dark. The control still functioned. I called Tuson and they had me mail the hand unit to them. It was repaired and sent back in a few days at no charge. Excellent customer service. It has light and heavy trailer settings, low speed less aggressive mode, and other functions... Mine will operate an electric/hydro ABS system as well as electrical only brakes. The KW uses a Hayes air/electric which works fine. It has hill hold feature...😎 "Are we there yet?" asked no motorcycle rider, ever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted September 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 30, 2018 The EZ brake cord system had some weak springs on some of the contacts, specifically the left and rt turns signals. The other springs had varying amounts of resistance to pushing with the fingertip. They should not push or depress easily. This after countless texts and calls between me and The Rep from EZ Connect. They sent another pair of cables which were hooked up. The trailer side was more difficult. The cable went up inside thru the standard roughly 6x6 hatch into a 4x4 box that was offset from the access port and jammed full of wires and inlines. The box was replaced with a terminal strip. All the old connections were cut off and replaced with blue, yellow and a bigger one on the white and black. Dielectric grease was applied to connections before crimping and yes it was hooked up red to red etc. Pics are on the camera of before and after. I should add that there were several calls to Henry to pretty well rule out the Jackalope. Backing up the train a year and a half, the circuit board in the J. was replaced in Louisiana cus it got fried. Never did find the reason. There is a good pic of the J showing wiring to that point untouched. Fast fwd to now and looking at the wiring as it currently is prior to talking to Henry, the blue and black wires in the top left corner which I'm told were to do with the brakes, were not as before. My J is mounted horizontally with the green input cable on the left. Someone has switched the wiring but neither mechanic claims responsibility. Under H's guidance the 2 wires were moved to where they should be. The blue switched spade connectors and I think the black one isn't connected to anything..but why?? Frankly, I'm still not sure if those wires aren't complicit in this ongoing issue. Moving on, when pedal is depressed, I now have signal at the truck 7 pin, J. lites up and trailer brakes lite up. So that's an improvement as there were intermittent or no trailer brake lites. But now with everything switched even the Max manual slider does not provide braking. Frankly, I was never sure whether the MB system was working, aside from the manual slider because the truck can stop both. It isn't like the trailer brakes could be felt grabbing. Also the controller with blue/black LCD screen is down by my left knee, and not easily read. Particular pains were taken on a long flat stretch of Wyoming hiway to set them up as the book instructed. But even then the truck could do it by itself. Aside from the dim readout how do I know the trailer brakes are working. I'm back to Victoria Monday and will try to make sure the truck/trailer wiring isn't the culprit and send a closeup of the opened up J to Henry to rule out the J wiring. The first thing is to source the problem, fix it, then replace the MB with Directlink. H has an accomplice in the FL area he thinks may be able to educate me on electrical. Randy A can put electrical into Roger speak but not sure if that's going to happen this winter. He can be dangerous to be around. Aside from the brakes not working, the Directlink monitor is mounted up higher on the dash and gives feed back as to status, so that is an improvement. To save some time, what are the locations of the 2 brake wires? The blue and black wire? Thanks I came across this Validated Members 1,062 posts Report post Posted September 20, 2016 You should have two blue wires to wire Jackalopee, one a part of the truck 7 wire cable, the other coming from the brake controller. Do not confuse the two. The blue wire from the truck should be inserted into pin 7 (AUX) in the row of seven terminals reserved for the truck. The blue wire from the brake controller should be inserted into the terminal BRK CNTRL, it's in a row of three, at the top is +12V SWITCHED, below that is +12 DIRECT, and below that is BRK CNTR. Note that this terminal is part of a thick etch that goes across the board and ends on the other side of the board (TRAILER side) and a BLU [2] terminal also marked BRK CNTRL. The brake controller signal does not go through any relay, it just takes a "trip" through the board from one side to the other, through that thick etch. Also note a thin etch going up to the BRAKE LEVEL LED which indicates if there is any power coming to the board from the brake controller wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morelli Posted October 1, 2018 Report Share Posted October 1, 2018 This is what I typically order: https://tusonrvbrakes.com/products/direclink-dl-200ne Hope that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GlennWest Posted October 1, 2018 Report Share Posted October 1, 2018 I really like my Bludot air over hydraulic system.Not saying Direct Link not good. I like no electronics in braking. 2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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