Jack Pads

[SWharton]

We are fed up with our yellow jack pads, just don't work for our camping. RVGeeks recommend these and we were wondering if there are any other options out there. Also, If you have these we would appreciate comments of what you think of them and how they work in grass.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PX1KITE/?coliid=I1SYJAIJKSNXSD&colid=3HPG7M9WER91&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

 

 

Thanks as usual...............

[SWharton]

We use the stall mats for under our tires when parked for a while. We are looking for firm jack pads, the plastic ones just bend too much as would stall mats. We don't want to go to wood as that gets too heavy. We are in a MH and the jacks take a lot of weight. Think the stall mats would work great for a 5th though.

Thanks

[Chad Heiser]

I have the above referenced jack pads.  They are very stout and work well.  While I think they are a little expensive, I bought them anyway and am happy I have them when I get into a site that is not level.  It helps stability to not use so much stroke on the auto leveling jacks.

[rynosback]

11 hours ago, rm.w/aview said:

An option I chose after considering these 👆 was a 4x6 barn stall mat, $35 @ Tractor Supply. It's 3/4" thick vs the 1.5" here but many times it's the perfect height, and at 3/4" the increments are more controllable. I cut 'em into 9" squares and if you do the math you can see that I ended up with more than enough, I actually stopped cutting when I had 20 pads thinking this should cover the worst camp spot that I'll consider using. Besides the leveling detail I'll use the pads at the tongue jack and stabilizers as well, every time, paved or not. I also have Lynx Levelers and use them when needed to get more height and the mat squares that I cut are the same dimension and work really swell at keeping the Lynx pads from sinking or settling into the earth.

Thanks for the tip.  I like the idea.  We currently use wood 2x10x10 blocks under the jacks to reduce the ram of the jacks.  Been working great for three years.  But when I place then under the wheels they tend to crack.  But like you said, I could have between 2 -7 blocks under any given jack to solve any leveling problem.  Plus it distributes the load even better.

[Optimistic Paranoid]

3 hours ago, rynosback said:

Thanks for the tip.  I like the idea.  We currently use wood 2x10x10 blocks under the jacks to reduce the ram of the jacks.  Been working great for three years.  But when I place then under the wheels they tend to crack.

You can solve the cracking problem by screwing two of the 10x10 blocks together, with one rotated 90 degrees from the other so the grain on the two blocks cross, like the plies in plywood

[JimK]

Pine boards are not heavy once they have aged for a year or two.  I solved the cracking problem by drilling through from the edges and inserting threaded steel rod tightened with washers and nuts.  They worked and looked so good that I even finished them with stain and a waterproof sealant.

[Kirk W]

1 hour ago, Optimistic Paranoid said:

You can solve the cracking problem by screwing two of the 10x10 blocks together, with one rotated 90 degrees from the other so the grain on the two blocks cross, like the plies in plywood

I did that also, but I glued the boards as well as using deck screws. 

[Bill Joyce]

Been using Utility Blocks for years and they are holding up great.  I bought 8 of them, which is two packages.  Before that I went through a lot of boards that eventually broke.  I  learned quickly both the orange and yellow Lego style blocks could not handle the weight of a diesel pusher and they would also warp in hot weather.  The Utility Blocks work in grass, but they can sink into the ground, if it is soft just like anything else.  On soft ground you need very large blocks on the bottom of the stack, maybe 2'x2' plywood?  

[rpsinc]

I found a 12' length of composite decking that I cut to length and find they work well and at about 3/4", they are stackable, havent cracked and are useful for many things.  Not heavy like wood either.

[rynosback]

20 hours ago, Optimistic Paranoid said:

You can solve the cracking problem by screwing two of the 10x10 blocks together, with one rotated 90 degrees from the other so the grain on the two blocks cross, like the plies in plywood

I ran them as singles for about 2 years and now have most of them nailed in blocks of two for the last year.

[momdoc]

I don't know if you are in a trailer or a motorhome or fifth wheel.  If a motorhome  we use snap pads which are also good for many 5'ers.  Once installed (takes about 20 min to do) you never worry about pads again.

Here is a link https://rvsnappad.com/

[SWharton]

I forgot about those..................I tried to get some for a previous rig and they didn't have the size. New rig, a MH, and now they have the size. A few questions: Has one ever fallen off? Do they work well in soft ground? Any problems that you have had with them? How long have you used them?

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

We have over a year on our SnapPads.  Sure made a difference not having to get on our knees to put pads in place.  On the fifth-wheel, it wasn't so bad because the jacks were near the edge but on the Bounder, the jacks are on the frame and that is way under.

On our 10" jacks, the SnapPads cover almost the same area as the 16" square pads we had been using..

Never worried about them coming off, they really snap onto the jack pad.