Older batteries in a 2013 truck

[Sculptor]

4 minutes ago, Av8r3400 said:

From inside the truck, open up the drivers side seat of the work station.

You should see the Webasto heater and (if you have one) the inverter.  If I were a betting man, I'd say there is not one there.  Our trucks came from the same company, mine is very similar to yours and it only has shore power with no inverter (yet).

I'm sure you're right Larry.  I am like a dog with a bone on technical stuff sometimes.  It obviously made sense to someone these trucks needed shore power but not chargers.

[Sculptor]

10 minutes ago, HERO Maker said:

I have searched thru the inverter manual and the VN owners manual, they both describe a toggle switch with an icon of a plug but this truck doesn't have one.  It doesn't have an inverter, or it doesn't have the toggle switch?

The Xantrex manual describes the inverter pretty well but I think this from a much older VNL than I have.  I don't see one mounted to the frame. So, you have the Xantrex manual, but no inverter?

Av8r has posted while I was typing, and I think his advise is right.

The Toggle Switch, no gots.  😊

I have the owners manual, and I found the inverter PDF on the HDT reference site.

[Scrap]

The grey box is the circuit breaker for code.  It isn't used with the inverter because the inverter has all that stuff inside it so its a pretty good bet you only have shore power.  If you want to add an inverter then you can get the 1800W one Mr Cob got in his thread and the shore power will plug right into the inverter using those same plastic clip plugs.  Then the grey box side will plug into the AC out of the inverter using those plugs too, but you'll need to buy a harness since you'll be short one.  The Ebay set Mr Cob bought would work too.  Run the battery wires through the floor and now you have a charging inverter in place with no tearing up of the sleeper.

Officially you'd have to replace the shore power cord with a 20A sideways plug one since an 1800W charging inverter draws more than 15A, but that's kind of up to you if you are a code stickler or not.

 

[Sculptor]

13 hours ago, Scrap said:

The grey box is the circuit breaker for code.  It isn't used with the inverter because the inverter has all that stuff inside it so its a pretty good bet you only have shore power.  If you want to add an inverter then you can get the 1800W one Mr Cob got in his thread and the shore power will plug right into the inverter using those same plastic clip plugs.  Then the grey box side will plug into the AC out of the inverter using those plugs too, but you'll need to buy a harness since you'll be short one.  The Ebay set Mr Cob bought would work too.  Run the battery wires through the floor and now you have a charging inverter in place with no tearing up of the sleeper.

Officially you'd have to replace the shore power cord with a 20A sideways plug one since an 1800W charging inverter draws more than 15A, but that's kind of up to you if you are a code stickler or not.

 

Thanks very much Scrap!  This is the grey box we have.  I was stuck on the mystery of why this system would not also charge my truck batteries.  Maybe if I think like a fleet manager? and think a set of 4 new batteries is cheaper than a factory inverter?  Your feedback is very helpful and appreciated.  

I think this is the correct link, LOTS of parts and reference material:

http://www.rvnetwork.com/topic/130183-i-have-the-jackalopee-the-hayes-controller-and-i-am-terrified/?do=findComment&comment=929352

 

[rickeieio]

13 minutes ago, Sculptor said:

 Maybe if I think like a fleet manager? and think a set of 4 new batteries is cheaper than a factory inverter?

Most likely, a fleet  truck never sits long enough to need a charger.

[Lance A Lott]

 

12 minutes ago, Sculptor said:

Thanks very much Scrap!  This is the grey box we have.  I was stuck on the mystery of why this system would not also charge my truck batteries.  Maybe if I think like a fleet manager? and think a set of 4 new batteries is cheaper than a factory inverter?  Your feedback is very helpful and appreciated.

If you have all those nice outlets in the picture you should be able to hard wire a quality   Automatic 3 or 4 amp battery tender to the batteries and then plug it in to your pictured outlet. That way when you plug in your shore power it will charge your batteries. Don't expect it to charge dead batteries but it will hold a charge, at least if you use the master cut off switch. I don't have the shore power plug on my truck but that is how I keep them charged in the winter. The truck in inside so I can't run it periodically. I think my maintainer is from Napa and was about $40. 

Most converters you find in campers charge 3 to 5 amps while supplying about 40 amps to the appliances. so if you decide to put one in research them. Also unless you are trying to run a lot of 12 volt appliances in the truck while plugged in to shore power they tend to be a waste of money in a truck.

I tend to get the names converter and inverter mixed up, even though I know which one I am talking about, so I checked  to make sure I used the proper name. The inverter Scrap was referring to would be used to run stuff like a microwave off from your batteries and would be wired to them not plugged into the gray box in the picture. Although you could wire the gray box to the inverter so that your outlets in the truck would have power all the time. This unfortunately uses a lot of battery.

[noteven]

Batteries in workaday trucks last many many moons. 

[Scrap]

2014 was the year of the mainstream truck inverter so a 2013 truck was a bit early.  We were supposed to have shore power at every truckstop at that point in time.   The current J1544 inverters came out in 2014 but didn't get battery charging included until sometime in the last year.  They charge at 40A.

You buy the inverter:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/80144/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-12-110-1800-B4-True-Sine/

The cable ends for it:

http://www.partdeal.com/zerostart-cab-power-inverter-panel-mount-connector-kit-8500647.html

The harness to the load center (grey box)

http://www.partdeal.com/zerostart-cab-power-54-in-interior-wire-harness-8500641.html

Unplug the shore power cable from the load center and plug it into the inverter.  Plug the new harness in the inverter out and into the bottom of the load center, give it the same battery cables and mounting as any other inverter, and you've got an inverter on your outlets like it would be done today.

 

[Sculptor]

11 hours ago, Scrap said:

2014 was the year of the mainstream truck inverter so a 2013 truck was a bit early.  We were supposed to have shore power at every truckstop at that point in time.   The current J1544 inverters came out in 2014 but didn't get battery charging included until sometime in the last year.  They charge at 40A.

You buy the inverter:

https://www.waytekwire.com/item/80144/EATON-s-Bussmann-Series-12-110-1800-B4-True-Sine/

The cable ends for it:

http://www.partdeal.com/zerostart-cab-power-inverter-panel-mount-connector-kit-8500647.html

The harness to the load center (grey box)

http://www.partdeal.com/zerostart-cab-power-54-in-interior-wire-harness-8500641.html

Unplug the shore power cable from the load center and plug it into the inverter.  Plug the new harness in the inverter out and into the bottom of the load center, give it the same battery cables and mounting as any other inverter, and you've got an inverter on your outlets like it would be done today.

 

Thanks Scrap is not enough, but it's all I got.  Really good info here.  

INSTALLATION VIDEO HERE:  EATON ROADRANGER

Someday maybe I can help you with molding a panel on your truck (I'm sure you are pretty darn good at it already) or mocking up something on the computer.  Same goes for anyone of this group.  

[Lance A Lott]

This looks like a nice setup that Scrap has found for you.  

[Sculptor]

5 hours ago, Lance A Lott said:

This looks like a nice setup that Scrap has found for you.  

Hello Lance,  I couldn't agree more!!  I am SO GRATEFUL for Scrap's help and of course all here.  

I have an update for anyone who is following:

My wife and I went outside today and finished cleaning terminals up.  The copper bars that connect 4 positives and 4 negatives respectively, had a plastic coating molded onto them.  The corrosion had found a permanent place under the insulating coat so the coat had to go.  A little more brushing and all was ready for re-assembly.  

I might regret it later but I simply used Gorilla Tape to protect the bars between terminals.  Next was dielectric grease at each connection, plus the bracket and bolts holding the batteries in the rack.

Looking up there are 2 110v power receptacles that are for block heater and shore power.

These were ready for the trash bin so we replaced both with some nice new chrome receptacles.

https://www.autopartsandstuff.com/zerostart-860-5688-wpreceptacle-wired.aspx

So all parts came back together, the truck started right up, and it's parked back on level ground once more.  When I am cleared for driving I will be able to take the rig in for MORE service.  

 

[Av8r3400]

Nice find, Kevin.  I need to replace mine, too.  

I'm going to have quite a list of to-dos after the rally...

[Sculptor]

Question for Scrap or anyone, I have no interest in either brand (Eaton or Xantrex). On Amazon the Xantrex is about $100 less than the Eaton on the Waytek site.  Is there any reason to pay more for the Eaton such as more reliable easier setup, smaller footprint?  

[Scrap]

Freedom HFS 2000?  I know its the same install but never compared specs with a fine tooth comb.  Always assumed they were pretty much the same thing.  I think it is missing the SAE cert if that matters.  The 1800W Freedom HF was MSW if I remember right.

[Sculptor]

28 minutes ago, Scrap said:

Freedom HFS 2000?  I know its the same install but never compared specs with a fine tooth comb.  Always assumed they were pretty much the same thing.  I think it is missing the SAE cert if that matters.  The 1800W Freedom HF was MSW if I remember right.

I looked up MSW.  I don't need a Master of Social Work.        I got it, just a rimshot later.  Glad you mentioned that, a look in the manual confirms it. 

The Freedom HF provides up to 1000 watts (Freedom HF 1000) or up to 1800 watts (Freedom HF 1800) of continuous modified sine wave power from a battery bank. It is designed to handle loads such as a 600-watt microwave (Freedom HF 1000) or 1000-watt microwave (Freedom HF 1800), TVs, VCRs, and midsized power tools.

[DesertMiner]

[Sculptor]

I think the detail of this video would be helpful for any Volvo owners who are thinking about an inverter like Scrap suggested to Mr. Cob and myself.

 

[Jack Mayer]

Yeah, well, that works but is not the desired way to do it.....

I suppose that if you want shore power you can simply unplug the outside connection and then plug into shore power. A more desirable outcome would be to put in a transfer switch or use an inverter/charger that has an inbuilt transfer switch. The output of the inverter would then go into the grey cab power box where the shore power originally went. The shore power would be the feed into the input side of the inverter/charger.

[Sculptor]

31 minutes ago, Jack Mayer said:

Yeah, well, that works but is not the desired way to do it.....

I suppose that if you want shore power you can simply unplug the outside connection and then plug into shore power. A more desirable outcome would be to put in a transfer switch or use an inverter/charger that has an inbuilt transfer switch. The output of the inverter would then go into the grey cab power box where the shore power originally went. The shore power would be the feed into the input side of the inverter/charger.

Thanks Jack, You are right, I would change that.  I can't see an extension cord sticking out the side of the gosh darn cab as being the best solution.  I liked the angles and the details about the hole in the floor already being there, and the cable attachments WITH FUSE etc.   I have spotted that little factory hole and have plans already.   

I hope you and Marc are doing well.  We missed the ECR this year and I think you did too, but would like to drop by for a visit to Kansas-land someday.

[Jack Mayer]

2 hours ago, Sculptor said:

Thanks Jack, You are right, I would change that.  I can't see an extension cord sticking out the side of the gosh darn cab as being the best solution.  I liked the angles and the details about the hole in the floor already being there, and the cable attachments WITH FUSE etc.   I have spotted that little factory hole and have plans already.   

I hope you and Marc are doing well.  We missed the ECR this year and I think you did too, but would like to drop by for a visit to Kansas-land someday.

Thanks.....we are doing well. Hope you can get back by here some time. You are welcome any time.