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Found 18 results

  1. In the process of designing 1,200w system for my motorhome I already decided to use 24v battery system. Should I use 24v batteries in parallel connection or use 12v batteries series & parallel connections to construct the 24v system? does it make any difference at all either way? All batteries are identical and will be purchase same time. Any pro and cons? Please advise. Thanks!
  2. Good morning! We picked up our class A on Monday. It was jumped to start as it had been sitting in storage with battery installed since April (thanks to quarantine). Drove it home 15 miles with no issues. We are in upstate NY. Once home, turned it off for 5 minutes. Went to start up again to lower levels and got nothing. Absolutely nothing. It was as of no battery was even installed. Tried battery boost from house and generator. Installed new battery this morning and still nothing. Engaging the key does nothing but show the oil pressure needle drop a little. Like I said it’s as if there is no battery. Starter was replaced last year as were several fuses and breaker switches. Something must be disconnected or faulty. My husband wiggled the cables and could get the dash to light up but still wouldn’t turn over. The red positive cable on the first battery on the left going to the middle battery is the one he moved. This will be our 3rd summer with our 2002 Itasca Suncruiser. Seems we keep patching it up every year lol. If you have some advice to offer I’d really appreciate your help in pointing us in the right direction. Thanks in advance!
  3. Our Fleetwood Expedition, 2008, is reflecting an unusual state. All tanks (black, gray, fresh, propane) reflect full but I know all the water tanks are less than half full. The propane is close to full. And both the main and auxiliary batteries reflect under 5 volts, which I am sure is also false as both the engine and generator start fine. We are plugged into 30 amp camp power that worked fine for the first 10 days here. The shore power reflects 126 volt incoming. We did have bad house batteries a month ago but the symptoms experienced with that issue were not what we are seeing now. With bad batteries the refrigerator gave a low DC warning and the lights dimmed over time or with increased draw. Other than the tank and battery displays mentioned above there are no visible problems. Our frig is working with no errors showing, our lights, tv, 120 volt outlets all appear to be functioning. I have run the generator with no change in display status. I have unplugged and turned off both battery systems, then tried the generator again with no help. I have reset the inverter/charger again with no change to display status. I am not an electrician and don't know where to go next with this. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
  4. I have a 27' class C with one 175w solar panel. The RV is only capable of holding 2 group 27 batteries. For the past year I've been using Interstate RV/Marine batteries from COSTCO ($80 each). I know I need better batteries, but am unclear on which to get, so am looking for the EXPEREINCES you have had with your choice in batteries. At this point, Lithium batteries are out of my budget range for having only one panel, and I can't fugure out where to install Golf Cart batteries. But maybe I'm selling myself short by not considering Lithium Because of its ability to withstand a slow discharge down to 80% I am therefore looking at GEL as being the best for my use of only LED lights, laptop, printer. refrig, and sometimes heater. My need is of course to have high AH reserves at night. I only boondock while on the road. If, when, I go to a larger rig, or different model (A, or 5th), I can look at Golf Cart batteries, or maybe Lithium. There are many GEL type batteries on the market, so I am wondering what experiences people have had with their make/model of GEL battery. Is any make better than others? I'm not interested in getting Interstate batteries. I hope everyone is having a good Holiday Season, and that everyone has a profitable and plentiful New Year.
  5. Just bought a used Tioga Montera. It had no coach battery. I acquired one and need to know how to hook it up. It has 4 wires, 2 heavy 2 lighter. The heavies are clearly marked pos (red) neg (black). The smaller ones appear to be 2 reds. If I hook one small one to pos and one to neg I get a warning buzzer that I think means a ground problem. Can anyone help?
  6. Hi everyone, I am new to the community. I’m going to be moving into my small RV in the next few months. The refrigerator is not working and it will cost to much to be replaced. I am trying to keep the spending down as much as possible. What are your thoughts on putting in a small garage/patio type unit like cubic 3 ft. A/C freezer refrigerator in its place? They vary in electric usage from $26 to $13 a year and from 197 kWh so 138 k a year. And I will be Boondocking probably 90% of the time for 6 months of the year and on my property with electricity the other six months. I have only one large marine battery, but I do have a generator. Another concern is will it hold up to the shaking and jarring that the RV will have driving on unpaved roads Boondocking?
  7. This is a basic battery question. It happens to be about our 2013 Volvo also, but the answers would apply to batteries in general. Just one of a few threads I found: The dealer tested the batteries 750 amps. Any time we climbed in the truck it always started and no problems I could tell. Someone may have left a switch on last weekend. Today it will only turn over once then stops. I plugged in the shore power and turned on the inverter. (It was not plugged in all winter but started every 2 or 3 weeks and run for 15 minutes or so) Hoping the inverter can bring the batteries up. The battery cables had corrosion that was cleaned off last fall. Today I noticed the corrosion is back and a bit worse than it was. Both positive and negative terminals. question: Now that the charge on the batteries has been drained does that mean they won't hold a charge anymore? I'm not sure when they were installed. 2013 VNL 450K miles.
  8. hello everyone I am new to Rvs, a couple of months ago I bought a 2003 Ford V10 ( 4 wind hurricane ) , I installed 2 deep cycle batteries and just want to know how often should I recharge them, and what are the actual steps of recharge ( I read online 3 steps to recharge the barraties but no details of how to exactly do each step ) . I am currently in a full RV hookup in San Diego, it is getting warmer here ( 70 to 80s / if that affect how often the batteries are recharged !?!!) I will appreciate any tips thank you. ( updated / edited ) I meant to say how often should I maintain the batteries ( refill water if it is below certain level ) not how often to recharge them ( that part I can tell from the test button obviously )
  9. Hi all, we have a 2004 Damon daybreak class a motorhome with a F450 chassis. We kept it in a storage lot for a few weeks and when we came back to it today all of the batteries were dead the chassis battery as well as the coach battery. We were able to get a jump from a good Samaritan who also happen to be somewhat of an RV expert and informed us that the battery in our chassis was not meant for an RV, in his words it was a car battery. I'm OK with buying a new battery that's better manufactured to support our RV, but what kind of battery is that? What do you all suggest? Thank you !
  10. lappir

    Door didn't unlock

    My daughter had an issue with my car, alternator apparently went out. She said at brunch today that the battery light came on "yesterday". After brunch I looked under the hood and everything seemed OK had her start it and heard a definate slow down of the starter but it did start and ran. Told her to beat feet to my parking spot and don't dilly dally. Well, she made it 1/3 the way there. Was a good girl and pulled off the road and stopped and then was able to coast almost into a parking lot of a school. Here's where the HDT comes up. Hit the key fob to unlock the truck to open the "Jockey Box" where my battery charger is and the door doesn't unlock. Use the key and unlock the door, open the box and the green light is on showing the battery is charged and the charger is operating. Put the key in the ignition to check the battery voltage and nothing happens. Well, maybe I have more problems than just a car with the need of a new alternator. Go get the battery out of the car and hook it to the charger. Suddenly the truck door unlocks. OK, there was a little charge in the battery and that's what unlocked the door. Put the key in and have 12.2 volts on the dash volt meter. That's where it usually sits when I have the charger on and the battery is charged. Any ideas what happened? Truck has been sitting since Halloween. I check the battery charger every few weeks and have turned on some lights occasionally but non have been left on. Fridge is off too. I will be leaving at the end of the month, but had no plans to start the truck until the first of the week before departure. I will take it to top off the fuel and bring everything up to operating temps before hooking to the trailer. At least that's the plan. Rod
  11. Any of you good gents have experience with Fullriver AGM Batteries?? I've used and bought and sold too many RV's to count but never came across Fullriver batteries?? I don't want to start a feud over which brand is good or bad etc. etc., just looking for experience and opinions on Fullriver. John T Never too old to try n learn a new thing or two
  12. Hello all, I am hoping I can get some info./assistance/guidance from some of you kind and knowledgeable folks... I do realize this is an RV forum, but I know you can still give me good advice. THE SHORT: BALQON = NO USER MANUAL or USER GUIDE = NO COMMUNICATION = MY 27kwh LiFEPo4 Battery pack sitting outside for several months NOT hooked up = me freaking out about self discharge (which I didn't even know existed) and a possible 800lb. expensive brick!!! THE LONG: This past summer (2015) my wife and I refinanced our house, took out loans, and spent our life savings to pursue our mutual life-long dream of a full turnkey Solar scenario. The goal was to get all the components in and then hire a local professional to put it all together and guide us through it all, including the use and maintenance. After doing some comparisons of battery options I decided to go with LiFEPo4. I contacted Balqon, and Samra (CEO?) spent well over an hour on the phone with me and convinced me that was the route to go and that his company was the way to go. We went through a Solar company to get 24 panels, mounts, a Schneider/Midnight Classic all-in-one wall of electronics and a 27kwh battery bank in an external enclosure, from Balqon. Balqon took tons longer to ship than promised, after awful communication. Then, despite calls and emails DAILY from myself as well as from the company I bought it through, we still have yet to get a response. And all we were trying to do was get a User Manual or User Guide for the 27kwh battery pack. You know, "This is how you hook it up, Do this, Don't do this, This button does this, This is how to actually open it up, etc..." Well, then there had been ridiculous and extensive problems and delays in getting the mounting in. (FedEx Freight basically ran over everything with a fork lift, then I get sent the wrong stuff, then they won't send the right stuff, then they want me to pay for the right stuff cause it's not what they were told to send, etc...) So, as of today I now have all the components in. (Except any of the information I needed from Balqon, that is.) While online last week doing some research I ran across people talking about self-discharge (which, again, nobody ever told me was even a thing) and how it could brick your battery. (I am aware of the BMS and it's self cut-off to prevent it getting too low, etc.) Well now I am FREAKING OUT!!! Due to all the calamity of errors and delays, the battery has been sitting outside untouched for several months! I don't know how much charge it came with, how to hook it up, nor how to operate it (because I never got a manual, nor did I have everything in to begin an install) From the looks of things it will probably be this Spring until the panels are mounted and we are ready to actually hook up to it. So, please, tell me, what do I do??? Assuming I hit the "On" button and it isn't dead, how on earth can I put a charge into it without all the solar panels hooked up to get it to last till the spring without bricking? Can I hook jumper cables up to it from my car for countless hours? Is there a way to hook up a generator directly to it without the wall of electronics? Can I plug into it from my house? I mean, I don't need to fill it up and worry about an over charge, I just need to keep it from dying. Then, If I go to push the "On" button and nothing happens, or it is totally dead what options do I have? Quite Sincerely, Recent Newb
  13. My first post! Been an RVer for several years, but just purchased first motorhome - 2004 Minnie Winnie 24F. We'll be doing a fair amount of boondocking and want to monitor battery usage. Don't know much about electrical systems so I was wondering if someone could recommend a simple voltage meter. The motorhome has two deep cycle batteries. Help on installation would be appreciated as well. Thanks!
  14. ruthanns1

    Battery Charge

    Hey Guys, we have a problem with our batteries charging. Our amp meter in the truck reads less then 11amps even with the on board charger on and it dose not charge the batteries. I can't get a date on the batteries none of the numbers were removed. I tried jumping it by the two nubs under the hood and nothing. Now I have 4 batteries and they seem to be in two banks run parallel, and I'm guessing that they join under the truck some where. Do I need a special charger for charging a two or four battery bank. Thanks Chip and Ruth
  15. My RV (Jayco Greyhawk 31 FK) is usually plugged into a 30 amp outlet while parked at our house. i recently unplugged it for a couple of days due to extensive flooding in our area. At the RV the water level was about six inches deep so not too bad. During that time I noticed that the coach battery was not holding charge as the coach lights (all LED) began to dim rather quickly. This battery is an Everstart brand, just over a year old, purchased at WalMart in Arkansas. Using a Greenlee AM-6 voltmeter I got a voltage of less than 11 volts on the coach battery. The rig was plugged back into the 30 amp outlet and the coach battery charged through the Magnum MS-2012 inverter/charger. After the charger showed that it had switched to float mode I disconnected the 30 amp cord, waited until the next day and then checked the voltage at the coach battery. It was again down to below 11 volts. I again plugged it into the 30 amp outlet and waited until the charger showed that it was in float mode. Then I used a hydrometer to check the specific gravity and found that while most cells showed specific gravity of 1.3 or more, one cell was less than 1.1. In other words the specific gravity in one cell was not even on the scale. I have been using the equalization cycle of the MS-2012 for three hours now and there has been no increase in the specific gravity of the subject cell. Any ideas of why this would happen on such a new battery? If the equalization cycle does not fix the problem is there any way to save this battery?
  16. It appears that my engine start battery is not charging when plugged into 120 power or on the generator. The coach batteries are charging OK. Voltage at the battery today was 12.08 when plugged in or running off the generator. The engine started fine and the alternator is charging just fine. The battery is full of water and tests OK after a charge. The RV has been sitting for about 2 weeks without running the engine, but it has been plugged in or on the generator the entire time. The generator has been run for a couple of hours almost every other day. It was told to me that the converter/charger charges both the coach batteries and the engine battery when plugged in. Any suggestions on where to start troubleshooting? 1999 Bounder 34J on a Ford chassis with V10 engine. Chuck
  17. I ran across this today on MSN discussing Tesla Batteries and found it interesting http://www.msn.com/en-us/money/companies/new-tesla-battery-could-end-electricity-bills/ar-BBiU7fs?ocid=U146DHP These type of discussions have been around before, but as an engineer they always attract my attention. I'm ONLY the messenger, NOT wanting to start any argument over battery types and designs etc. just food for thought. That being said, I'm getting to that stage in life when its time to sell the farm and big old house where we raised our family and downsize to a much more energy efficient (Solar, Geothermal etc.) smaller home with an RV Port. I know for sure I will install around a 5000 Watt or so fixed southerly Solar array and most likely start out Grid Tie. Then if battery technology evolves I may go off grid. For sure if I were young and just starting out in my first home, it would be Solar and Geothermal and Wind Power and anything else out there. I attended a Busnuts rally in Arcadia Florida a few years ago where Technomads put on a seminar and explained their 500 Amp Hour Lithium Ion Battery (in their GMC 4104 Bus Conversion) storage bank and I think they were expanding it to 1000 Amp Hours. However I recall how the charging volts and amps and temperature was all so critical YIKES. But I'm sure things have improved since then. In the meantime I'm happy with my RV's flooded lead acid 460 Amp Hours (4 Golf Cart Batteries) which requires far less sensitive and far less expensive 4 stage Smart Solar or 120 VAC powered conventional charging. John T
  18. It's getting about that time to order a new can of spray and was just curious what brand folks prefer.
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