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Found 10 results

  1. In the process of designing 1,200w system for my motorhome I already decided to use 24v battery system. Should I use 24v batteries in parallel connection or use 12v batteries series & parallel connections to construct the 24v system? does it make any difference at all either way? All batteries are identical and will be purchase same time. Any pro and cons? Please advise. Thanks!
  2. Good morning! We picked up our class A on Monday. It was jumped to start as it had been sitting in storage with battery installed since April (thanks to quarantine). Drove it home 15 miles with no issues. We are in upstate NY. Once home, turned it off for 5 minutes. Went to start up again to lower levels and got nothing. Absolutely nothing. It was as of no battery was even installed. Tried battery boost from house and generator. Installed new battery this morning and still nothing. Engaging the key does nothing but show the oil pressure needle drop a little. Like I said it’s as if there is no battery. Starter was replaced last year as were several fuses and breaker switches. Something must be disconnected or faulty. My husband wiggled the cables and could get the dash to light up but still wouldn’t turn over. The red positive cable on the first battery on the left going to the middle battery is the one he moved. This will be our 3rd summer with our 2002 Itasca Suncruiser. Seems we keep patching it up every year lol. If you have some advice to offer I’d really appreciate your help in pointing us in the right direction. Thanks in advance!
  3. Our Fleetwood Expedition, 2008, is reflecting an unusual state. All tanks (black, gray, fresh, propane) reflect full but I know all the water tanks are less than half full. The propane is close to full. And both the main and auxiliary batteries reflect under 5 volts, which I am sure is also false as both the engine and generator start fine. We are plugged into 30 amp camp power that worked fine for the first 10 days here. The shore power reflects 126 volt incoming. We did have bad house batteries a month ago but the symptoms experienced with that issue were not what we are seeing now. With bad batteries the refrigerator gave a low DC warning and the lights dimmed over time or with increased draw. Other than the tank and battery displays mentioned above there are no visible problems. Our frig is working with no errors showing, our lights, tv, 120 volt outlets all appear to be functioning. I have run the generator with no change in display status. I have unplugged and turned off both battery systems, then tried the generator again with no help. I have reset the inverter/charger again with no change to display status. I am not an electrician and don't know where to go next with this. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
  4. I have a 27' class C with one 175w solar panel. The RV is only capable of holding 2 group 27 batteries. For the past year I've been using Interstate RV/Marine batteries from COSTCO ($80 each). I know I need better batteries, but am unclear on which to get, so am looking for the EXPEREINCES you have had with your choice in batteries. At this point, Lithium batteries are out of my budget range for having only one panel, and I can't fugure out where to install Golf Cart batteries. But maybe I'm selling myself short by not considering Lithium Because of its ability to withstand a slow discharge down to 80% I am therefore looking at GEL as being the best for my use of only LED lights, laptop, printer. refrig, and sometimes heater. My need is of course to have high AH reserves at night. I only boondock while on the road. If, when, I go to a larger rig, or different model (A, or 5th), I can look at Golf Cart batteries, or maybe Lithium. There are many GEL type batteries on the market, so I am wondering what experiences people have had with their make/model of GEL battery. Is any make better than others? I'm not interested in getting Interstate batteries. I hope everyone is having a good Holiday Season, and that everyone has a profitable and plentiful New Year.
  5. Just bought a used Tioga Montera. It had no coach battery. I acquired one and need to know how to hook it up. It has 4 wires, 2 heavy 2 lighter. The heavies are clearly marked pos (red) neg (black). The smaller ones appear to be 2 reds. If I hook one small one to pos and one to neg I get a warning buzzer that I think means a ground problem. Can anyone help?
  6. Hi everyone, I am new to the community. I’m going to be moving into my small RV in the next few months. The refrigerator is not working and it will cost to much to be replaced. I am trying to keep the spending down as much as possible. What are your thoughts on putting in a small garage/patio type unit like cubic 3 ft. A/C freezer refrigerator in its place? They vary in electric usage from $26 to $13 a year and from 197 kWh so 138 k a year. And I will be Boondocking probably 90% of the time for 6 months of the year and on my property with electricity the other six months. I have only one large marine battery, but I do have a generator. Another concern is will it hold up to the shaking and jarring that the RV will have driving on unpaved roads Boondocking?
  7. This is a basic battery question. It happens to be about our 2013 Volvo also, but the answers would apply to batteries in general. Just one of a few threads I found: The dealer tested the batteries 750 amps. Any time we climbed in the truck it always started and no problems I could tell. Someone may have left a switch on last weekend. Today it will only turn over once then stops. I plugged in the shore power and turned on the inverter. (It was not plugged in all winter but started every 2 or 3 weeks and run for 15 minutes or so) Hoping the inverter can bring the batteries up. The battery cables had corrosion that was cleaned off last fall. Today I noticed the corrosion is back and a bit worse than it was. Both positive and negative terminals. question: Now that the charge on the batteries has been drained does that mean they won't hold a charge anymore? I'm not sure when they were installed. 2013 VNL 450K miles.
  8. hello everyone I am new to Rvs, a couple of months ago I bought a 2003 Ford V10 ( 4 wind hurricane ) , I installed 2 deep cycle batteries and just want to know how often should I recharge them, and what are the actual steps of recharge ( I read online 3 steps to recharge the barraties but no details of how to exactly do each step ) . I am currently in a full RV hookup in San Diego, it is getting warmer here ( 70 to 80s / if that affect how often the batteries are recharged !?!!) I will appreciate any tips thank you. ( updated / edited ) I meant to say how often should I maintain the batteries ( refill water if it is below certain level ) not how often to recharge them ( that part I can tell from the test button obviously )
  9. Hi all, we have a 2004 Damon daybreak class a motorhome with a F450 chassis. We kept it in a storage lot for a few weeks and when we came back to it today all of the batteries were dead the chassis battery as well as the coach battery. We were able to get a jump from a good Samaritan who also happen to be somewhat of an RV expert and informed us that the battery in our chassis was not meant for an RV, in his words it was a car battery. I'm OK with buying a new battery that's better manufactured to support our RV, but what kind of battery is that? What do you all suggest? Thank you !
  10. lappir

    Door didn't unlock

    My daughter had an issue with my car, alternator apparently went out. She said at brunch today that the battery light came on "yesterday". After brunch I looked under the hood and everything seemed OK had her start it and heard a definate slow down of the starter but it did start and ran. Told her to beat feet to my parking spot and don't dilly dally. Well, she made it 1/3 the way there. Was a good girl and pulled off the road and stopped and then was able to coast almost into a parking lot of a school. Here's where the HDT comes up. Hit the key fob to unlock the truck to open the "Jockey Box" where my battery charger is and the door doesn't unlock. Use the key and unlock the door, open the box and the green light is on showing the battery is charged and the charger is operating. Put the key in the ignition to check the battery voltage and nothing happens. Well, maybe I have more problems than just a car with the need of a new alternator. Go get the battery out of the car and hook it to the charger. Suddenly the truck door unlocks. OK, there was a little charge in the battery and that's what unlocked the door. Put the key in and have 12.2 volts on the dash volt meter. That's where it usually sits when I have the charger on and the battery is charged. Any ideas what happened? Truck has been sitting since Halloween. I check the battery charger every few weeks and have turned on some lights occasionally but non have been left on. Fridge is off too. I will be leaving at the end of the month, but had no plans to start the truck until the first of the week before departure. I will take it to top off the fuel and bring everything up to operating temps before hooking to the trailer. At least that's the plan. Rod
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