Wheel bearings and rotor?

[tyates007]

So I pulled the wheels today on my Mobile Suite to check the xl lube (never lube type) bearings. This is what I saw when I pulled the first wheel.

At some point after my annual check when all was good I lost an outside brake pad and the caliper ate the rotor bad  I'm guessing it happened on my last trip during the fall  I have tpms with temp and check the hubs at every stop with an ir gun and nothing was out of the ordinary which is why I am guessing I must have lost it on the last stretch that was just over 400 miles non stop. Lesson learned here, check stuff more than annual with long trips  

now the question.  All of my other rotors look good, there is no play in the wheel and each wheel spins smoothly.  With that said, each hub has some grease in them  this one is the most.  Is this to much meaning the bearing is headed out or this acceptable?

 

 

[Chad Heiser]

Neither of the the pictures showed up.

[Av8r3400]

Photo from the bad code in the original post.

 

[tyates007]

3 minutes ago, Av8r3400 said:

Photo from the bad code in the original post.

 

Thx. Not sure why the photos are not showing up

[tyates007]

I'll try again

https://postimg.org/image/i93k9c9dd/

 

[Av8r3400]

Off topic - Sorry

Grab the URL of the photo you want to post starting with the "http" and ending with the ".jpg", copy this URL, click the "insert other media" box from the button on the lower right corner of the message window then click "insert image from URL", this will give you a window to paste into.  That's how I did it.

Not sure what you are copying from imagur.com but it is placing extra code in the copy for some reason.

 

Lesson over.  Back to topic.

[tyates007]

Thx. No go tonight with the url not sure why. Just posted a link

[SuiteSuccess]

Tyates,

I have the NevRLubes also.  When you removed the dust cover was there a lot of grease or oil in the cap?  If so I would change the bearing out.  If you look at the new cartridge you will see there is a little daylight between the sleeves before the spindle nut and washer is put on.  The nut and washer then are torqued to 145-155 ft/lbs. compressing the sleeves and closing any gap.  If you are leaking that much grease then something is not quite right in my opinion.  As you know to test the bearings, besides visual inspection you raise the tire off the ground and spin to listen for grinding or unusual noises.  You then rock the tire back and forth to check for play in the bearing.  The NevRLube site says how much play is allowable and if more the bearing needs changing.  Now one other thought, when putting the hub back on you have to put a little grease on the non-threaded part of the spindle to slide the hub/bearing on.  Did you or the tech slather a lot of grease on then and you're just seeing the residual?  I'm also assuming your pic is just showing grease and not metal shavings.

[alan0043]

10 hours ago, tyates007 said:

So I pulled the wheels today on my Mobile Suite to check the xl lube (never lube type) bearings. This is what I saw when I pulled the first wheel.

 

At some point after my annual check when all was good I lost an outside brake pad and the caliper ate the rotor bad  I'm guessing it happened on my last trip during the fall  I have tpms with temp and check the hubs at every stop with an ir gun and nothing was out of the ordinary which is why I am guessing I must have lost it on the last stretch that was just over 400 miles non stop. Lesson learned here, check stuff more than annual with long trips  

now the question.  All of my other rotors look good, there is no play in the wheel and each wheel spins smoothly.  With that said, each hub has some grease in them  this one is the most.  Is this to much meaning the bearing is headed out or this acceptable?

 

 

 

Hi tyates,

I have a question for you. Do you know the last time that the bearings were changed out ? Or are the bearings original to the trailer ? I am just trying to get a time line to see how old the bearings are. Never lube bearings have a limited life before they wear out.

Be safe on the road,
Al

[tyates007]

2 hours ago, SuiteSuccess said:

Tyates,

I have the NevRLubes also.  When you removed the dust cover was there a lot of grease or oil in the cap?  If so I would change the bearing out.  If you look at the new cartridge you will see there is a little daylight between the sleeves before the spindle nut and washer is put on.  The nut and washer then are torqued to 145-155 ft/lbs. compressing the sleeves and closing any gap.  If you are leaking that much grease then something is not quite right in my opinion.  As you know to test the bearings, besides visual inspection you raise the tire off the ground and spin to listen for grinding or unusual noises.  You then rock the tire back and forth to check for play in the bearing.  The NevRLube site says how much play is allowable and if more the bearing needs changing.  Now one other thought, when putting the hub back on you have to put a little grease on the non-threaded part of the spindle to slide the hub/bearing on.  Did you or the tech slather a lot of grease on then and you're just seeing the residual?  I'm also assuming your pic is just showing grease and not metal shavings.

Caps were clean when I removed them. There was a very small amount in the very bottom. When I rock the wheel it is very solid and there are no noises and the wheel rotate smooth. Grease was blue. Could have been residule from when bearings were put on. None of them had more or less grease in the hub or cap.  They all looked the same. 

[tyates007]

1 hour ago, alan0043 said:

Hi tyates,

I have a question for you. Do you know the last time that the bearings were changed out ? Or are the bearings original to the trailer ? I am just trying to get a time line to see how old the bearings are. Never lube bearings have a limited life before they wear out.

Be safe on the road,
Al

Al I am not sure when or if they have been replaced. I am the second owner. Original owner did not pull much. Trailer just sat al there are not many miles on them. I am assuming they are original though as each of the nuts and washers have a blue line of paint to show where they were torqued. 

[SuiteSuccess]

1 hour ago, tyates007 said:

Caps were clean when I removed them. There was a very small amount in the very bottom. When I rock the wheel it is very solid and there are no noises and the wheel rotate smooth. Grease was blue. Could have been residule from when bearings were put on. None of them had more or less grease in the hub or cap.  They all looked the same. 

I expect they are ok, residual from spindle.  I always have a little grease (blue marine) from when I replaced mine.  This is a bad one.  One of the sleeves fell off in my hand.  Gotta check mine in next couple of days to start season.  I will see how much visible grease I have.

[tyates007]

Thanks. Apprecite the info. I have to order a new hub so I think I will go ahead and order bearings as well. Kodiak says they no longer stock the bearings, just the complete assembly. I have seen the cartridges at etrailer available. Suite I know when you replaced yours you looked pretty hard for none Chinese bearings. Do you happen to have part numbers from your research

[SuiteSuccess]

1 hour ago, tyates007 said:

Thanks. Apprecite the info. I have to order a new hub so I think I will go ahead and order bearings as well. Kodiak says they no longer stock the bearings, just the complete assembly. I have seen the cartridges at etrailer available. Suite I know when you replaced yours you looked pretty hard for none Chinese bearings. Do you happen to have part numbers from your research

JXC 25469  50mms Old  bearings.  Note made in Spain.  I ordered direct from Dexter and bearings were Chinese.  Dexter said that's their supplier now.

My hubs.  I have drum brakes so won't be the same.

 

 

 

[Pete Kildow]

Shoot even the Timken bearings are now stamped China. And after sticker shock at trailer dealers. I went to Rockauto.com used known auto year and make. That used the same bearings as mine. And for 30% of the cost the same bearing. Now if I could do better then $300 per brake . Or $95.00 for one set of shoes. Only need 4 sets..

Pete

[sclord2002]

Pete, would you mind sharing the automotive application for the Timken JXC 25469 bearing.  I have been looking for a vehcle that uses this bearing but have been unsuccessful in my search.   Thanks,   Charlie.

[rickeieio]

On 4/3/2017 at 11:45 PM, tyates007 said:

Thx. Not sure why the photos are not showing up

Going back to the original "Q". that grease in the cup.....If it had come from within the bearing, it would no longer be blue, but dirty black.  But I'd still change 'em, since your this far.

[noteven]

John Deere Ag dealers used to be a good source for bearings. The parts dept had a yuuuge cross reference catalogue. 

[SuiteSuccess]

14 hours ago, rickeieio said:

Going back to the original "Q". that grease in the cup.....If it had come from within the bearing, it would no longer be blue, but dirty black.  But I'd still change 'em, since your this far.

Rick,

I agree with your call on the grease.  I will differ with you some about replacement. The NevRLubes are expensive between $90-130 per bearing. Replacing all four of mine was near $500.  He has no grinding when the tires are spun, no puddling of "oil" in the dust cap, and no play with the "shake" test indicating a bad bearing.  This is a passing grade in my opinion and I would just continue to check them.  According to Dexter they are supposed to last 100,000 miles or 10 years.  Not sure I believe that.  Anyway the above tests were what I was taught by a technician to check these bearings.

[rickeieio]

Carl,

I wasn't aware the Nevr Lubes were so pricey.  Ouch.  But, reading back through the posts, it would appear these are the original bearings, and it's not stated how old the trailer may be, thus my suggestion to change them.  If the unit isn't that old, it would make sense to leave them alone.

[tyates007]

Thanks for all the replies. Trailer is a 2008 so coming up on time to replace. They are pricey no doubt. I have a new hub and rotor coming from Kodiak. I am ordering a spare because Murphy's law has taught me that if I carry spare parts I will never need them ?.  I am also going order bearings and change them out then I won't have to worry about it. Parts will be about $800 but that is cheap compared to the potential damage a bad one can cause. I am still working ft for a lot of years and I pull a lot at night in the dark right now. With the old Kenworth I would drag the wheels right off of it and might not know until there were flames in the night. Not interested in that. 

On a side note. Another beautiful thing about running a HDT. We had a trip planned this week, first one of the season. My 4 year old has been excited for weeks. She loves to go. When I saw the chewed up rotor I was dreading telling her we were not going because of parts. As I checked the bearing and hub everything was ok. So, I removed the caliper and capped the brake line. I bled the brakes and we have been on the road for the past couple of days. Although the remaining 3 wheels brakes were good I would not have pulled it that way with my dually. With the Kenworth I had no concerns. So today's headline is HDT saves 4 year old disappointment. That makes it worth it for me. 

[tyates007]

Here is an update for anyone who wants to know. My Mobile Suites has the 8k Lippert axles on it with Kodiak disc brakes. I was told by Lippert that the hubs were a system they no longer use and so my only option was to replace axles. So, I called Kodiak directly and gave them the information off my axle. Their 138xl9 rotor hub matched what I needed with a 50mm bearing cartridge. Kodiak told me same as Dexter axle. I could get bearings for $126 or new rotor for $170. I bought 2 new rotors and a new caliper that came complete with brake pads. Finally got everything replaced this morning. Took some time to call around and track down parts but better than replacing axles like Lippert wanted me to do

http://i.imgur.com/gynftKZl.jpg[/IMG]

http://i.imgur.com/z8Wmw8Ql.jpg[/IMG]

http://i.imgur.com/xwLbqjrl.jpg[/IMG]

[Ronbo]

I get parts from etrailer.com

[DJohns]

You all seem informed on the topic so I will ask a question. I have a New Horizons with morride IS 7000  and Kodiak disc brakes.If I would ever need service do I go to morride or kodiak?

[ARGO]

I see references to Kodiak, Lippert and Dexter in this thread. Be aware, I have 10K Disc Dexter axles w/MorRyde, and those pads are NOT Kodiak. They are very similar, but not the same. Be sure what you have before ordering.