Ray,IN

That is the firm I went with too, back in 1990. Fidelity is quite different today, electronic automation makes it more difficult to speak with someone. The first firm I contacted, the man I spoke with told me to make out a check for the transfer amount in his name; I never bothered to call back. That caused me to only deal with a large established company.

It was irv2.com, which is running normally tonight. Yesterday afternoon pages would not load-no error msg just a blank screen.

Ouch! Now I need something to ease my headache too. My eyes even hurt. Great thorough information though, thanks for posting the link.

That particular webpage says "not found", but I clicked on "home" and it works.

Their website appears to be down this afternoon.

Correct, when the process is completed within the time limit set by the IRS. It's been so long ago I forget the time limit, and it may have changed since 1990 anyway. I do remember it is best to have the receiving IRA already in place before closing the old IRA.

Sounds like a good plan to me. It's not like Florida property will decrease in value, the land in SW Florida that was underwater a year ago are more valuable today than pre-hurricane.

I was viewing the Road Chief model; https://bowlusroadchief.com/on-the-road/, scroll down to the 360° tour, rotate the view to the closed doors, click on the menu button that takes you to view the wet-bath, rotate to view the commode/shower. It's elementary anyway, they are out of my price range for a TT.

My old 510 system (2005) uses a flat metal "wrench" to lock them onto the valve stem, the cap freely spins to make them impossible to remove without that wrench. The cap may be removed if desired according to the instruction sheet, so you do not have to use the wrench to tighten them onto the stem; at the cost of losing the anti-theft feature. If the sensor battery fails you must send it back to TST for a replacement @ $50 ea. My 507 flow-thru sensors(2013) use a metric "Allen" wrench to tighten a set screw to lock them onto the stem. You are right about replacement batteries(which I replace every 2nd year), I buy them at flea markets @ $1 for a card of 10; I've only gotten 2 faulty batteries in the last 6 years. I re-use the "O" rings until they break, just a light film of Vaseline on them keeps them in good condition. DW doesn't like it when I turn the dining table into a work bench though. Neither model has ever failed me.

Technology is touted, yet you must remove the toilet tissue to take a shower(unless you like to use wet TP) in the wet bath. Forethought seems to be missing. It is an unusual design.

Keep in mind, there are about 3 battery manufacturing plants in the U.S.A.; they make batteries for everyone else under their name/brand, to that brands specifications. Just because they are made by Penn does not guarantee they are constructed the same as Deka batteries.

FWIW, the Army will be getting new uniforms too, they IMO are retro-style of the WWII dress uniforms.

With contact paper type and window film there is the probability of getting air bubbles under them over time, it depends upon the skill level if the installer. Cling type is removable of course, but I've had some medium tint on one window for 2 years without it coming loose/curling, and a credit card works well to remove returning air bubbles if I am patient.

Not in any RV I ever owned.

Have a total (4-wheel) alignment performed. I had our MH aligned last summer, the rear axle was out by 3/4", the front was out some on all 3 axis. Now the rest of the story, their alignment computer set incorrect specs for our Spartan chassis, I had to download the correct specs from Reyco-Granning/Spartan and have them repeat the alignment.

I would definitely file a formal complaint with the county/city health department. There is no clue as to the source of the worms, I will not speculate. FYI, the solution of chlorine and water in your fresh water can be safely drained onto the ground via the fresh tank drain, same for water heater. What little is in the plumbing lines will go into your grey tank for future disposal. You may also safely use chloramine to disinfect drinking water.That is my method(Sodium Dichlor)of disinfecting my fresh water system in the RV. It may be purchased at any swimming pool supply store in granulated form, all it takes is 1tsp per 100G of water, and the water is also safe to drink(no chlorine after-taste) afterwards if necessary.

If your water heater uses an anode rod, it can slough-off particles that remain in the tank, and they often cause a foul odor. A water heater flushing wand is required to -er, flush them out of the tank. When the anode rod is half-gone it's time to replace it, before pieces begin to fall into the tank.

Yup, doctors can't treat death and stupid.

The picture shows they left room on their door side so they do not have to enter your site. Look at the situation like this; at least you do not have a group or partiers staying up till the wee hours with bright lights and loud music. Is it possible to have a friendly conversation with them about the yappy dog bothering you both? I'm a - the glass is half-full person.

Perhaps the first TPMS on the market was PressurePro, to my knowledge they are the only TPMS made in the U.S.A. I have a TST unit, I like it and it is reliable; several other brands are the same. None of the valve stem mounted brands have a sender that detects actual inside tire temperatures because the sender mounts on the valve stem, so what we look for is a differential temperature compared to the remaining tire senders.

https://trips.furkot.com/ is interesting. I haven't played with it enough to know how to use its features though. After the create a trip screen you have the opportunity to choose hotels, RV's, etc., modes of transportation.

A Prevost like this: https://dallas.craigslist.org/ndf/rvs/d/1992-prevost-xl/6818080649.html

My limiting factor for my dually was the vent hose size; liquid in- air out, to slowly. My MH has a 90° bend 4" from the inlet, foaming is the problem there.

I don't know what Ford is thinking, but they say this will fit in their F250 through F750.

I suggest you focus on the tow vehicle first. A Colorado is low on the scale for towing capacity IMO; if you tow at its maximum capacity it will be stressful for both of you and harder on the vehicle, which means you may expect parts to wear out or break sooner. This travel trailer towing calculator will accurately and safely match your Colorado to what it will safely tow. It even offers the option of selecting a 20% safety factor, to which many full-timers subscribe. Do not accept the word of a salesman on towing capacity or ratings, do your own homework; after all it''s YOUR money being discussed. You may discover your Colorado is inadequate to tow any trailer that satisfies you both. This of course would mean you need to change priorities from trailer to truck.