Ray,IN

The problem is, the computer has no sound whatsoever, you know-like when you turn on caps lock, etc. My external Altec Lansing speakers make the pop sound when I turn on the computer so I know that circuitry is working. It's time to give this headache to someone with a higher pay grade than I. I rather suspect a new clean install of W10 may not work, since the refresh did not solve the problem; it might be something in the OS bios. I would copy N paste the audio diagnostic registry results but it is 3 pages long. What puzzles me is, the latest W10 update did not break the sound on my laptop???? The W10 help forums says it happens to just some computers. Aren't I lucky?

Scott, the model # is on a sticker on the pedestal, you must remove the plastic pedestal cover first. Here is an exploded diagram with part numbers. The spring cartridge and the bowl seal are available on Amazon, but the bowl seal is cheaper from Ebay(8.99) While you have it apart, insure there are no nicks on the ball valve, these ruin the bowl seal. Might as well replace the seal while you have it apart, even it the old one works. The instructions say the most common cause of spring cartridge failure is from allowing the pedal to snap closed.

Thanks for that link Derek. I tried all of those solutions to no avail. Then I manually downloaded the latest Realtek drivers for W10 and installed it, again to no avail. When I run a search of my computer for Realtek I get no results, and I know it said the install was successful. Looks like it's time to open my wallet and take the box to a reputable computer repair shop in town. I'm tired of attempting to regain computer audio, time for an expert to take a shot at fixing the problem.

Good blackberry wine is our favorite. It's what some call lip-smackin good! IMO the best black berries in the world grow wild in the NW. One of our trips we just pulled off the highway, grabbed a couple plastic pails and picked blackberries until the pails were full. It wasn't until we got back to the RV I realized bears love blackberries too.

Per this website, the dosage is 32oz Purogene + 4oz citric acid per 50G to sanitize. For water disinfection, those amounts are cut in half. Purogene is chlorine dioxide, special attention should be given to sections 6 and 10 of that SDS. I'm not saying not to use it, however it should be handled and used with the appropriate precautions, just as I use Sodium Dichlor for water disinfection and sanitizing.

Have you guys seen this: Beer, Brewing, Distilling & Packaging Calculators, Recipes, Lessons, Technical Reports, etc.

Awww John, I've already got a to-do list that will keep me busy for months, now I've got to add something else. I just tested the ice maker, and put new stabilizer "shocks" on last Monday. I'm still recovering from rolling around underneath the beast.😫

My computer has/had the default sound system. I just attempted to install Realtek from device manager and got this on a blue screen: "Windows encountered a problem, Windows is gathering information and will automatically restart when finished. for more information go to windows.com/stopcode System Thread Exception not handled RTKUVHD64.sys" I had to do a hard shutdown (on/off button) to get out of the blue screen. I did a refresh windows 10 last night. Would it help to do the clean install of windows 10? Nothing I have done will install Realtek audio driver to device manager. I downloaded Realtek and installed it, BUT it installed as an app.???

According to the Windows support site this is a known problem, and support says they are working on a solution. (I can't hold my breath that long) I know the external speakers are working, when I start my desktop the speakers pop with the initial surge of electricity. I downloaded and installed Realtek 2X once from the HP website and once from the Realtek website(it was/is missing in device manager) but afterwards it does not appear in device manager under Sounds and video. I visited the HP website and double checked my bios as instructed, no luck there either. I finally did a refresh of W10, which did not regain computer sounds. When I attempt to run "update driver", the update downloads but then it says it cannot install the driver because the device has a problem. When I run the no audio troubleshooter, it says it can't locate the problem, the details say 'no sound device found", and " Both windows audio and the Windows audio End Point Builder Services must be running for audio to work correctly, at least one of these services is not running:" Is it time for me to find my sledge-hammer, or can this be solved? A side note, my laptop also updated to the latest 1903 version and it plays sound normally.

The water tank will not fill faster with the 12V pump running, it is either pumping water out of the tank or simply recirculating water. It really doesn't matter if you leave the pump switch on or off, the pump will only run when there is a demand for water pressure. If city water pressure drops below the onboard pump pressure setting the pump runs, exactly like it would if you were not on city water and opened a faucet. If the pump runs when no faucets are open or call for water, you have a water leak.

Pertinent links: https://cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/fpa-apa/menu-eng.html https://www.canada.ca/en/government/dept.html?utm_medium=decommissioned+site&utm_campaign=Canada+Site+Redirect+Tracking&utm_source=canada.gc.ca/depts/major/depind-eng.html&utm_content=Launch+Tracking https://cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/noncan-eng.html One quirk you should be aware of is; if you have a drunk driving arrest or conviction on your record, be prepared to be denied entry into Canada. You may apply for a waiver prior to arriving at a border crossing.

🤣 I can hear it now, my semi left me at the plaza while i was showering, the computer said it was time to go_so it did.

This online weight calculator will be of immense help for your task: You have two choices buy more than the minimum truck for towing the 5er, or wish you had later. Using any equipment at its rated capacity continually, will wear it out much faster than using it at 80% capacity. On a different RVing fourm a man just posted yesterday about the diesel GMC Colorado he bought to tow a trailer. Twice now he had had to replace the differential, and it is still under factory warranty.

Residential refrigerators :https://www.thesilverlining.com/westbendcares/blog/five-common-appliances-that-cause-house-fires

I was thinking of the 1980's model travel trailer, set up permanently, owned by a cousin, on an annual rented site. They must display the current license plate in a front window, and the wheels cannot be removed.(as if they would support the weight anyway)

That is my experience too, great tires. I put Sailuns on our MH last year due to the experience with them on our 5er, they run great on the MH too.

This is one I'm contemplating for this summer: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQKWL83/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3QNKWQE2NCOTM&psc=1 I figure if a sudden storm hits, a quick run with a knife along the awning roller will get it away to quickly store the awning, and perhaps save it from being destroyed.

I have seen where some folks post the same question on several different RVing forums. I assume they forget what they have done and where.

Another source of smelly water is the anode(Aluminum or Magnesium) in the water heater drain plug,(Atwood does not use one) as it deteriorates the residue drops to the bottom of the tank. Your rinse wand should flush most of the residue out, but, since there is a distance from the drain threads to the tank bottom, some water and anode residue can remain trapped in the tank.

The question is, where do you expect the rodent to go once it enters the wet bay? My wet bay is completely sealed from the rest of the MH. I have the opposite condition anyway. I replaced the deck hatches with new ones from a marine store, the threads are larger and thicker, which makes me fiddle with getting the hose end through them for a minute or two. Remember, if a mouse can get their head into an opening, they can squeeze the rest of their body through too. So, if you have an opening the size of a dime they can squeeze through.

We stayed there with our CC,LB dually and 40' 5er. I doubt his HDT is much longer than our dually.

Nearly all RV's are built from the bottom up,and the roof is the last constructed. This means adding insulation from inside is much more difficult, requiring cutting around walls, cabinets, etc to remove the ceiling paneling. Removing the roof is IMO the most practical, I don't know why your roof is not removable, could you explain?

I think you are doing the right thing now. Keeping the EPDM material clean, any material for that matter, is the best action an owner can do to maintain their RV roof. At some point in time every RV roof reaches its end of life, we just want it to be later than sooner.

There are many RV repair/remodeling shops available. The most obvious action is run a search for those type shops within 100 miles of your location, no results-widen search. ALLOY seems to have the best option for increasing insulation R-value.To fill voids I would use the best quality spray foam available.

The vast majority of FL RV parks have some/many permanent trailers on sites. They are required to buy annual license plates and registration. Are they counted as full-timers by the state?