Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
alan0043

Hayes brake controller - acting up

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I have a Hayes air activated brake controller in the truck. On Sunday when I was getting the truck ready to leave the camp grounds to come home. I plugged the trailer cord into the truck. At first I did not have turn signals, so I re-plugged the cord back into the truck and things were all ok. At some point the trailer started making a buzzing noise. I was glad that my grandson heard the noise and said, is the trailer suppose to make that buzzing noise. I open up the side of the trailer and heard the brake master cylinder being activated. I look at the Jackaloppee and saw the same thing. Then I looked at the Hayes brake controller and saw the little red light was on telling me that the controller was putting out some voltage. I did not move the truck or put the brakes on. The way that I was able to come home was to remove the brake controller wire (blue wire) from the terminal strip before the wire goes into the Jackaloppee. That stopped the buzzing noise. Now I have no brakes on the trailer. Thank goodness for having a big truck. After getting home I measured the voltage from the blue wire or the brake controller wire and found out there was about 3 volts going out. Where do I out next ? What other test do I need to make ?

Looking for any help. I have time on my side because I am home. No trips planned.
Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alan, If you remove the Hayes and take the top off, the 4 corner screws, you will see a copper bar that is probably touching the coil.  It's enough to send current thru and activate the actuator in the trailer.  

As soon as I can, I'm going with BluDot.  Direct link doesn't support the older Gen 1 Volvos.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, GlennWest said:

Do you have a slight pause before trailer brakes apply? I did with the Hayes unit. Wondering about the Direct link

instantaneous

+ hill hold  +control of application+etc etc    look it up , comes with a book of operator controlled parameters

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Mark and Dale Bruss said:

One of the first users of DirecLink controller is Trey&Susan and they have a Gen I Volvo VNL 770,  It is incorrect to say that Gen I Volvos are not supported by DirecLink.

Mark, I stand corrected.  There is a year cutoff somewhere in the Gen 1 Volvo's .  According to Alan from Direct Link that has never shown up to a rally, the interface will not work with the '98 Volvo's.  At least the '98's with Cummins engines....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
59 minutes ago, hone eagle said:

instantaneous

+ hill hold  +control of application+etc etc    look it up , comes with a book of operator controlled parameters

Thanks for the info. I was curious. Would not change my Bludot though. It works great also. I always has a pause with the Hayes though. main reason I went with bludot.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

Mark, I stand corrected.  There is a year cutoff somewhere in the Gen 1 Volvo's .  According to Alan from Direct Link that has never shown up to a rally, the interface will not work with the '98 Volvo's.  At least the '98's with Cummins engines....

Jim,

Had an invitation to ECR.  Just saying.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, GeorgiaHybrid said:

Personal opinion? Replace the Hayes with a Direclink controller and never look back.

Hi Everyone,

Right now the DirectLink is not in the picture. Maybe in a couple of years. The Hayes is about a year old. If I pull the top off the Hayes what should I look at ? If I look at the cooper bar, what do I look for ?  Is there a part inside the Hayes starting to fail ? 

Need more insight about this Hayes right now.
Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is a simple device. You will see when you take it apart. Bolt loose in mine causing the arm that moves to short out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Alie&Jim's Carrilite said:

And was supposed to stop by the National...

Maybe we just aren't a big enough market for him to "waste" his time with?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Big5er said:

Maybe we just aren't a big enough market for him to "waste" his time with?

Evidently............

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You don't just trapse through a rally, sniff some CAN, and fix up a bunch of trucks.  It is pretty involved and if you set your sniffer wrong you'd all end up paying the dealer out to clear your check engine lights and/or re-parameterize your trucks to get the trans to go into drive again.  When I helped him with 20 years worth of KW's it took over a month and that was just 15 trucks.  I screwed up my double to Georgia's truck so bad it took the MX call center guys 3 days to figure out what I did.  Long story short you want to keep your development controlled, take it back home to your HIL bench to test the living chit out of it for awhile, then only validate when it comes to customer trucks.

Besides you don't want a can controller on old 1587 only trucks anyways.  1587 is diagnostic and even though it probably does work it was never designed to be a thing reliable enough for controllers.  It is a brake system after all.....  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Scrap, I understand that, but he has been invited twice to the rally's and someone else has offered his truck to use as a test subject. 

Glen- Can't even get an e-mail or a phone call back saying we can't accommodate your truck.  Just left hanging on a "Let me see".  No return e-mails etc.  Harder to get hold of this guy than the Blu Dot sales.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Gosh, I didn't have any real trouble with them. My problem was my work hours. Once we finally got to talk, it went very smooth. But if you have Kodiak discs, all you need is a single master cylinder, the Bludot kit, tank valves, etc. You will also need extra a pressure regular valve. Air at tank needs to be 90ish pounds, not the truck higher pressure. Jack's write up covers this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I heard "commercial" trailers have air brakes...

physics is different on rv mobiles I guess...

My new to me  "classic" truck has a POS Tekonsha delayed action POS in it. Needs to be used for a forgotten wheel chock. Definitely not the DirecLink that I have in the won ton...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday, I started installing my BluDot system.  First task, find a place to mount the air tank.  The front of our coach doesn't have a door big enough to pass it through, other than the basement storage.  The compartment where the current electric/hydraulic pump resides has a door 2" too narrow.

Finally, I gave up and decided to change the oil in the genny and let my brain cool down.  Slid under the nose to see about dropping the spare tire to access the genny oil filter, and there in front of me was the perfect place, mounts already built, for the air tank.

Looks like it will be pretty easy to find a new home for the spare under the garage portion of the coach.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Finally, I gave up and decided to change the oil in the genny and let my brain cool down.  Slid under the nose to see about dropping the spare tire to access the genny oil filter, and there in front of me was the perfect place, mounts already built, for the air tank.

Looks like it will be pretty easy to find a new home for the spare under the garage portion of the coach.

Mounting it under the trailer is a possibility that many do not utilize. It will work fine there, and you can bring your drain valve and and pressure gauge to a more useful location. In some cases using an remote electric drain valve is called for. But that is getting pretty fancy. Just protect your lines well.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/27/2017 at 1:59 PM, GeorgiaHybrid said:

Personal opinion? Replace the Hayes with a Direclink controller and never look back.

Hi Everyone,

I have an update about the Hayes unit. While driving home from the weekend camping trip, I was doing some  rethinking about Hayes unit. To get the brakes in the trailer not to activate, I disconnected the blue wire going to the Jackaloppee so I could come home with out the trailer brakes. I thought to myself that there is an easier way to remove power from the Hayes unit. You guys got it, remove the fuse. After I got home I removed the fuse and reconnected the blue wire back to the Jackaloppee. Yesterday I needed to move the trailer and park it for the winter. I wanted to see if the same problem was going on with the Hayes. I put the fuse back in the fuse box. Guess what happen. The Hayes brake controller was acting just fine. I don't know what to think. I hope this problem does not show up again.

Any thoughts,
Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

RVers Online University

campgroundviews.com

Our program provides accurate individual wheel weights for your RV, toad, and tow vehicle, and will help you trim the pounds if you need to.

Rvonthego.com

Rv Share

Dish For My RV.

Find out more or sign up for Escapees RV'ers Bootcamp.

Advertise your product or service here.



×