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'08 Volvo 730 wont start


rpsinc
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I started it a few days before.  Needed to move the truck and so got in to do that and nothing.  Black dash on key turn.  Figured it was dead batteries.  Not sure why butput them on the charger for few days (10A charge).  Went back in and turned the key on, dash came on but nothing else is happening.  Not attempt to start.  I think I did notice a neutral switch notice but it didnt stay on.

Any suggestions of what to look for?

If the starter was lagging then I'd suspect batteries but not Volvo conversational.

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Try locking the doors with the key and then unlocking with the key.  I believe there is some anti theft system in mine but it fails to cranks so seldom I’ve never really figured out how it works.  Also if you have a second key try that.  
 

Just an uneducated guess

Nigel

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I fixed one this past ECR that had the same issue.  If it is the same, you have a bad connection to ground for the dash.  To test, find yourself about 8ft of #12 wire.  Attach one end to the ground stud for the CB radio.  Attach the other end to the ground bar on the batteries. 

This test will not hurt.  It will just parallel a ground that should be there.

Chet 

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I tried the lock/unlock and removing the grounds to reset the ECU and nothing different, although I did get a message on the dash "Neutral Secured Is Not Detected".  

This evening while putting away my forklift I did come across some rabbits, and they have attacked the wiring in another truck a few years ago.  I am wondering if they perhaps got to the Volvo.  I have seen one hanging around under the truck a few times.  Where would the Neutral Safety Switch be located on the truck, although there is not guarantee that that is where they may have messed around with the wiring.  But at least it may be a place to start, or maybe jumper the switch to troubleshoot.

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   It sound like you have a automatic of one kind or another.

   And it is not registering neutral.    I would suggest to research in the history on this forum on said subject.

      Clean all grounds. If you look on the engine side of the firewall, there should be 3 ground lugs. On each side of the engine. For a total of six grounds.

   Fusible link to the ecm from positive side of battery. Bad fuse, bad connection, or bad fuse holder. Mine was bad fuse holder.

 

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12 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

   It sound like you have a automatic of one kind or another.

   And it is not registering neutral.    I would suggest to research in the history on this forum on said subject.

      Clean all grounds. If you look on the engine side of the firewall, there should be 3 ground lugs. On each side of the engine. For a total of six grounds.

   Fusible link to the ecm from positive side of battery. Bad fuse, bad connection, or bad fuse holder. Mine was bad fuse holder.

 

My next direction. Thx.

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54 minutes ago, crazybanshee said:

Just had my truck fixed for the same issue.  Transmission ecm and connecting wiring harness. Plus low range shift solenoid.  9K total 

Did yours have no power at the dash when the key was turned on?

 

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I'd remove all the battery cables and clean them.  I bet you find one, or more, loose.

Then when that doesn't fix it, snug up the positive lead at the starter solenoid.  Also check the main ground cable where it attaches to either the frame or the engine block.  On our Volvo it was near the started.

Edited by rickeieio
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I had an issue a while back where the power lead to the Transmission controller, the TCM, had gotten crusty at the inline fuse near the batteries.

The truck would crank but not start, because the ECM, did not receive the signal from the TCM that all was well with the transmission, the transmission did show a red blinking fault light on the control panel on the drivers seat. This was intermittent at first, but did become more frequent.

I replaced the fuses holder and methodically chased and cleaned every ground.

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Marcel, any luck on your electrical headache on your Volvo? This was the same problem mine started with. 'Neutral Secure not detected'. I had many places in the cab wire harness, the previous owner 'repaired'. We found the main culprit in the patched wiring, that caused that code, was in the harness behind drivers seat. Part of it went to the shifter, then under flooring, up into dash & through firewall. Was able to temporarily repair wires behind the seat & it cycled back to neutral & fired up. After waiting 3+ months for Volvo to supply the new harness, it's installed. A few more smaller headaches, air dryer, fuel tank straps, etc. &  we might just make our trip to the National rally. Good Luck, Craig

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13 minutes ago, craigjanelle said:

Marcel, any luck on your electrical headache on your Volvo? This was the same problem mine started with. 'Neutral Secure not detected'. I had many places in the cab wire harness, the previous owner 'repaired'. We found the main culprit in the patched wiring, that caused that code, was in the harness behind drivers seat. Part of it went to the shifter, then under flooring, up into dash & through firewall. Was able to temporarily repair wires behind the seat & it cycled back to neutral & fired up. After waiting 3+ months for Volvo to supply the new harness, it's installed. A few more smaller headaches, air dryer, fuel tank straps, etc. &  we might just make our trip to the National rally. Good Luck, Craig

Sorry we wont make it to National Rally because I am overwhelmed with W O R K.  I know, its a blessing and a curse but I need the income until I get to a different place in life.  The pandemic put a BIG delay of many of our goals and as such we have had to revise our plans.  Part of that is unfortunately that the Volvo is sitting way more than we intend.

On 8/31/2022 at 7:09 PM, crazybanshee said:

The dash lit up when the key turned on but would go blank when trying to start. Starter would not turn over but I could jump it and would turn over.

Yes, dash lites up but nothing else is happening.  Tried to start with charger on boost but nope, tried jumping it but nope.  Turn the key and the dash goes blank.  Mechanic is in my future and I have a good mobile guy BUT he is not versed in Volvos, although he is a good technician, so confident he will figure it out, but dont know how much time it will take.  He does start with the simple things first.

 

On 9/4/2022 at 3:37 AM, Parrformance said:

The truck would crank but not start, because the ECM, did not receive the signal from the TCM that all was well with the transmission, the transmission did show a red blinking fault light on the control panel on the drivers seat. This was intermittent at first, but did become more frequent.

Nothing like this for me.  Returned from from WCR and when I went to start it to move it, the problem I stated was what I am still dealing with.  I have removed the battery connections and cleaned them, hoping that while leaving the ECM without power, it might "reset" itself.  Well, nothing so far.

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Well, the mechanic has been here and did checking on relays, fuses etc.  His recommendation is to replace the batteries first to eliminate them as a cause.  Seems they wont hold voltage but even when cab power is plugged in, no change to it doing the same thing, wont attempt to start.  He was able to clear the neutral safety code and that didnt free up the truck to start.  So after a LONG week out of town working, I start the search for new batteries.  They have NAPA commercials in it now, but any recommendations on what to use and where to get new ones??

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Good.  I have read that some dealers have better pricing for replacement batteries when compared to say NAPA.  I used NAPA commercials in my IH 4700, for a few reasons.  1- they replaced the NAPA batteries in the truck, 2- any issues with warranty can be addressed by a whole bunch of locations, 3- they were reliable until they werent.  

Not sure who makes the AC/Delco batteries but I wonder about that.  I am a lifelong GM customer and I dont think I have ever used them for replacement batteries, mostly due to the reasons above.

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I did some calling to find new ones and was amazed that replacing the NAPA commercials in kind was at a cost of $192 each, then called the local Volvo/Mack dealer and they sell a brand they recommend for $101 each.  Guess I will be driving an hour or so to TEC for new batteries.

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Well tonight I changed the batteries to new ones.  Was really hoping that that would be the whole problem BUT after taking my time and cleaning and spraying all the connections with corrosion preventer, got it all in and tightened up, hit the key and NOTHING.  Same behavior.  I even double checked that the fuse to the ECM is good.

Now not sure what direction to go.  Does Volvo have some owners customer service line available?  

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Instead of shotgunning parts, do some diagnostics. Get a meter, or at least a test lamp, and a helper. Test voltage into the starter, out of the starter solenoid, at the starter ground connection, at the other end of the starter ground, at the frame groud connection before the battery connection.

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Some starter have the OCP Over Crank Protection it's a switch in serie for ground relay supply to cut the ground of the relay (to stop cranking) if the starter temperature comes

 

  I found this on the net.    

 

At times there is a relay on our 610 that clicks but the truck will not start. Next try it starts. It’s been doing that for years. It sounds like it is behind the dash cluster.

 

  I did send some other info to another member for him to post it as my computer will not allow me.

  There use to be info on the HDT resource guide.   But I cannot find it.

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