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'08 Volvo 730 wont start


rpsinc

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9 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

  I did send some other info to another member for him to post it as my computer will not allow me.

Sorry, Vern. Just seen it this morning. You got it posted, anyway.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

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  I am wondering if there is a start relay in the upper dash area in with the fuses. It has been years since I looked in ours, but there could be one there.

    So the ignition switch would activate that relay to actually activate the start relay on the starter itself.

 

   Just thinking 

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Back to basics....  There's a stack of connections on the starter solenoid.  Remove and clean all of them, then replace.  I've had that connection be an issue on several vehicles.  Also, on some trucks, the main ground also goes to the starter.

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   You are correct Rick.

 

   But when my does not start I do hear a click in the dash area. Like I said it does it, say once in twenty starts. But it always starts the next time.

 

   But basics will eliminate the things that work. And yes it can be frustrating until the problem cam be found and fixed.

 

   I chased a right headlight high beam working sporadically for say three years. Put a new switch in the dash. Chased wiring connections. There are several connections until it gets to the bulb.

  Finally had the problem get big enough and expose itself to say I found it.

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Thanks all.  I will try to find some time to do that troubleshooting.  

Keep in mind that the starter doesnt TRY to turn over.  I get power to the dash when turning on the key but when trying to start the dash goes blank.  The new batteries did make a big change in the brightness of the dash though, so that appears to be a good change.

Not to the point of throwing parts at it yet.  Batteries were on the list to change mostly because they were suspect so now I can start with known good ones.

Marcel

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11 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Keep in mind that the starter doesnt TRY to turn over.  I get power to the dash when turning on the key but when trying to start the dash goes blank. 

That's why I suggested checking the ground cable at the end away from the batteries.  We had that issue a coulpe years ago, and the grounding lug near the starter was loose.  It would pass enough voltage to light up the dash, but when you hit it with big current, it was over.

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So as my drama continues and with more investigating by my patient truck mechanic, it appears that we may be dealing with something we dont really know is a fact yet, but for now a speculation.

We noticed that the Anti-Theft light has been flashing during all this time and esp as we have attempted to start the truck many times.  We wonder if the use of a NON chipped key would cause this condition since I had a key made that was not chipped and it has been the key I used for our WCR trip.  We further wonder if, when the batteries died, that the ECM may not be recognizing this key(well no chip makes sense & perhaps lost data comm).  So tonight I used the chipped key and it caused the Anti-Theft indicator to go out (which we have so far not been able to do) but the same dash conditions continued.  

I am planning on calling a locksmith tomorrow to see if they have the ability to program this truck(they did a new to me chipped key for my GM service truck last week).  I am really trying to avoid a 60 mile tow bill by working on some of the things I can do while it is in my yard.  Have not found a near to me mobile tech with Volvo experience yet.

It continues...

Marcel

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Is this a AMT transmission truck?    The issues sounds like a neutral safety switch?

 

Steve

2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift

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It is a D13/IShift and the neutral safety switch is the message on the dash.  We believe that the switch is use to disable the starting of the truck as an anti-theft feature.  My mechanic found some Volvo explanation for this, so now it appears that I need to get the ECM to recognize the chip key.

Not sure what AMT stands for.

Marcel

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AMT = Automated Manual Transmission 

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The TCM tells the ECM what gear the transmission is in. If the ECM does not get the neutral signal the truck will not start. That is why they had to replace my TCM and harness.

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Will the starter turn over the motor if you make the proper connections across the starter solenoid and the positive lug? If so renew the smaller gauge wires a the battery connection to their next mechanical connection. 

Had (and may still have) a similar problem for many years. Found I could start the truck by crossing the proper terminals at the starter and after sometimes a few minutes and other times several minutes my missing neutral light would come on and I'd be good till the next time I shut off the truck. 

Turned out to be a little six inch wire at the battery that someone had used as a pin cushion checking for power with a test light. You know the one with the sharp end you push through the wire insulation. 

The corrosion had gotten so bad inside that the truck would stop running at highway speeds and then not start for quite some time. 

I've been parked since July and am getting ready for the move to the HDT Rally. Sure hope it starts and I haven't jinxed my self with this comment. 

 

 

Rod 

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

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2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

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2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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On 9/30/2022 at 3:27 AM, lappir said:

Will the starter turn over the motor

Not getting any attempt from the starter.  Kinda expected that IF it was a battery issue, then I would hear the starter trying or the solenoid clicking, but nothing like that.  Just the dash going dark when turning the key to attempt to start.  Which is partly why we are looking at some anti-theft interlock.  Neutral safety displays on dash and anit-theft blinking light continues, BUT with the OEM key, I was able to get the anti-theft to go out, although neutral safety display stayed and dash still went dark upon turning the key to start.

Marcel

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I know nothing about Volvo trucks or automated manual transmissions (AMT) but, a neutral safety switch is a common failure to start in plenty of vehicles.    Is there an actual switch like a micro switch or something in the shifter that determines when the shifter is in neutral? 

I don't know about the anti-thief system in your truck most will crank but not start in armed mode.

With an electronic shifter there has to be some communication between the shifter and the starter relay, short of any other method turning the key to the rum position and jumping the starter should start the truck.     Be absolutely sure the truck is in neutral before trying this.   

2005 Peterbilt 387-112 Baby Cat 9 speed U-shift

1996/2016 remod Teton Royal Atlanta

1996 Kentucky 48 single drop stacker garage project

 catdiesellogo.jpg.e96e571c41096ef39b447f78b9c2027c.jpg Pulls like a train, sounds like a plane....faster than a Cheetah sniffin cocaine.   

 

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1 hour ago, Steve from SoCal said:

Is there an actual switch like a micro switch or something in the shifter that determines when the shifter is in neutral? 

I wish I knew what it is and where it is.  I am thinking about if I can locate it, then perhaps jumper it out to isolate it as the culprit or not.

Marcel

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14 hours ago, rpsinc said:

Not getting any attempt from the starter.  Kinda expected that IF it was a battery issue, then I would hear the starter trying or the solenoid clicking, but nothing like that.  Just the dash going dark when turning the key to attempt to start.  Which is partly why we are looking at some anti-theft interlock.  Neutral safety displays on dash and anit-theft blinking light continues, BUT with the OEM key, I was able to get the anti-theft to go out, although neutral safety display stayed and dash still went dark upon turning the key to start.

In my experience when the fully functioning dash goes dark when the key is turned, you  have a bad connection at an important wire. It lets just enough current to go through for the dash lights and such but when you try to get more current through it's too much resistance and heat starts being made and no current going through. If you have an infrared camera or maybe a thermometer, scanning the wires while turning the key may identify a hot spot which would be a good place to look. 

Have never heard of anti theft on these trucks, pretty sure mine does not have that animal. 

Rod

White 2000/2010Volvo VNL 770 with 7' Drom box with opposing doors,  JOST slider hitch. 600 HP Cummins Signature 18 Speed three pedal auto shift.

1999 Isuzu VehiCross retired to a sticks and bricks garage. Brought out of storage the summer of 2022

2022 Jeep Wrangler Sport S Two door hard top.

2007 Honda GL 1800

2013 Space Craft Mfg S420 Custom built Toyhauler

The Gold Volvo is still running and being emptied in July. 

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  • 1 month later...

Well the saga continues.  Found another shop owned by 3 guys(Father and his 2 sons) all of them worked at Volvo dealer.  Dad is master tech.  They have found that everything wiring wise and electrically checks out but same result.  Now they are thinking that the ECM may have taken a dump.  They will be looking to see if they can "borrow" one from another truck to swap into mine to test if that is the problem.  They will also do the same with TCM.  Hope they can do that or also looking for a test device for ECM but those are not common for independent shops but they still have contacts at dealer.

Anyone know if those ECM/TCM can be repaired?  Not sure what the availability is for those and what costs will be.

Marcel

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I had a problem that sounds like the problem described here with a 2001 Volvo.  The problem turned out to be a bad battery cable.  Not the where the cable connects but inside the cable.  I suspect it was where the wire was connected to the lug.  To find it I used jumper cables to parallel the existing cables.  Replaced both battery cables and that fixed it.  Before we found it I had cleaned all of the battery connections.  Even removing all of the wires on the starter.  A volt meter would show voltage at the battery and the dash would light but as soon as I tried to start it the dash went blank and nothing. 

Randy

2001 Volvo VNL 42 Cummins ISX Autoshift

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