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'08 Volvo 730 wont start


rpsinc

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I had a similar issue on a large farm tractor.  Same big Delco starter used on N-14 and ISX Cummins.  The cables were corroded internally to the point it would hardly crank over.  I replaced every cable in the starter circuit and put in new batteries.  That was in March, 2007.  Those batteries are still in there, doing fine.

To test the cables, See how much the voltage drops at the starter lug when you attempt to crank it.  I think 11ish volts is minimum acceptable value.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Will the onboard diagnostics not show anything.

what engine is it.

the other thing is the grounds on the firewall. Were they cleaned. They should be three on each side of the engine. On the engine side of the firewall. They are small.

Edited by Wrknrvr
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I have said this twice before and I don't know why the easiest way to isolate a ground problem is being ignored.  Simply provide a good ground to the dash.  Take a long piece of 12 or 14 AWG wire.  Put one end directly under a nut on the battery negative bus bar.  The other end should go on the CB radio Black connector on the dash.  TEST starting.  If it works then you can start looking for a bad ground.  

Chet & Deb
'01 Volvo 660 w/ Smart
'19 Forest River Columbus 320RS 5th wheel
2022 Chev 2500HD Long Bed
Retired CWO4, USN and federal service
Electronics Tech/Network Engineer/Welder/Machinist

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W. I am not sure what these ground screws go to. Now if you have them on your truck, it could be a cheap fix. Take them apart and clean the contact surfaces. Ours is a 2000 Volvo 610. They into a wiring harness.

  I do know if you have these studs or not. But it would be a cheap thing to try. I do believe there are three on the drivers side also.

 

just trying to help.

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3 hours ago, Wrknrvr said:

W. I am not sure what these ground screws go to. Now if you have them on your truck, it could be a cheap fix. Take them apart and clean the contact surfaces. Ours is a 2000 Volvo 610. They into a wiring harness.

  I do know if you have these studs or not. But it would be a cheap thing to try. I do believe there are three on the drivers side also.

 

just trying to help.

I very much appreciate ALL the help given.  I am trying each of the things that have been mentioned, at least the ones I can do.  Its a process.

Marcel

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Chasing a seemingly simple issue like this can be frustrating, even more so when you finally find the problem and realize it should have been one of the first things to check.  Not I  have ever been there...

I often say, "It's always a ground."  I recently had that thrown back at me (rightfully so)  while trying to figure out why a side marker/signal lamp on the trailer was acting goofy.  Duh.  Corroded bulb socket.  I would pass voltage, but only enough for the DVM to read.  Under the load of an incandescent bulb, it was a dud.  

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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The other simple thing to do is to see if 12 vdc power coming out of the starting switch for the dash and the start system. And staying on. Or is the 12vdc disappearing when trying to start the engine.

 

 If so then the ground side of the start system needs looked at.

 

  Just thinkinggggggg

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  • 2 weeks later...

The latest TEST was to replace the ECM with a known good one.  That did not reap positive results.  Same issue was realized:  dash goes dark when key goes to start position. 

Several inspections and checks have been made to perhaps find damaged wires, either + or grounds and even signals.  Nothing discovered yet.  Still working at it.

Marcel

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Again, the ECM is not involved in cranking. You have a bad battery cable, or a bad connection. 7 minutes and 23 seconds of troubleshooting would have revealed the fault location, if I was hands on. I'm half tempted to pack a bag, my tools, and go fix this for you.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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27 minutes ago, rpsinc said:

dash goes dark when key goes to start position. 

Dash going dark means nothing.  The start position of the key likely kills power to anything not needed to start.

I sounds as if you have technicians working on the truck, when you need a mechanic.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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Perhaps but I cant get the thought out of my mind that there is a wire/wires that have been chewed through somewhere, and since the neutral switch is the notice coming on the dash, perhaps related to the tranny.  I do have rabbits in my yard and have seen them under the truck.  They did get to my personal truck a couple years ago.

Not familiar enough to know where to look to eliminate that as an option.

49 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Again, the ECM is not involved in cranking. You have a bad battery cable, or a bad connection. 7 minutes and 23 seconds of troubleshooting would have revealed the fault location, if I was hands on. I'm half tempted to pack a bag, my tools, and go fix this for you.

You would be welcome.  Not sure where you are.  The battery cables, grounds and associate relays and fuses have been checked several times.

Marcel

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Long shot, but easy...... do you have a gear indicator?  Does it show "N"?  Starting circuit needs to see neutral to go ahead and crank.

KW T-680, POPEMOBILE
Newmar X-Aire, VATICAN
Lots of old motorcycles, Moto Guzzi Griso and Spyder F3 currently in the front row
Young enough to play in the dirt as a retired farmer.
contact me at rickeieio1@comcast.net

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36 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

Long shot, but easy...... do you have a gear indicator?  Does it show "N"?  Starting circuit needs to see neutral to go ahead and crank.

It is an IShift and the tranny has been in N all the time and this has been confirmed with a scan tool although the dash (TCM?) doesnt seem to acknowledge that.  That is partly why I am suspicious of a broken wire some place.  They guy I have working on it now owns his own shop but was previously a Master Tech at the local Volvo dealer.  So he has resources and was able to "borrow" an ECM to eliminate that as a possibility.  Now he is considering bringing a guy who specializes in the electrical/electronics side of these trucks, but he has accounts that he is obligated to take care of and so my truck is in an as-available situation.  I am not bothered by that because I dont earn my living with it and they do, but at some point I have to get this done.

Marcel

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   Darryl 

   You could FaceTime with him. Might be easier to do.   Just have him do what you ask.

   We would all feel relieved if he could get it running again.

 

   Last week I did that with a customer back in Montana on a Aquahot unit. Yep, just FaceTimed him as he was rather chilly.

  We had to go to South Carolina this winter so my wife can see her mother and for us to see our kids.

  

 

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37 minutes ago, Darryl&Rita said:

Phoenix valley, east side. You?

I'm 20 minutes north of Jojoba Hills SKP park, north of Temecula, CA.

I like the facetime idea, I IPhone.

40 minutes ago, rickeieio said:

I think you described the problem.  Starting circuit doesn't know the tranny's in neutral.

Yes, I believe it is BUT what to do to correct it.  That is what we are all chasing.

10 minutes ago, Wrknrvr said:

We would all feel relieved if he could get it running again.

Our relief will be unimaginable, I think.  This truck, while being an '08, but with a little over 85K miles, doesnt seem to doing this kind of thing, but it is what it is and this too shall pass.

Marcel

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  Has anyone talked to Volvo. There should be a technical help phone number in your truck manual. Or in the resource guide in the forum.

 

   I called once on a Saturday night about 9 pm. The tech on the phone with me and the onboard diagnostics pointed to the problem. The Volvo people actually transferred me to a Volvo shop for the diagnostics. The person I talked to was in California.   Heck I called back about hour later and I was transferred to a shop In Kansas.

 

   With the same discussion as before the second tech point to the same problem.  It was a speed sensor on the rear of the transmission.

  

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Google Maps shows 6 hours to Jojoba Hills, of course it takes over an hour just to get to the other side of Phoenix. Give Vern's suggestion a try, let the group know how that goes. I'm balls elbows deep in renovations, but my schedule should be opening up in a week or two.

I have been wrong before, I'll probably be wrong again. 

2000 Kenworth T 2000 w/N-14 and 10 speed Gen1 Autoshift, deck built by Star Fabrication
2006 smart fourtwo cdi cabriolet
2007 32.5' Fleetwood Quantum


Please e-mail us here.

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  Darryl.  

  You need to FaceTime with him.  I really believe you would have a much better idea what to do.    Where to look and test.

    It may take one person trying to start the truck, while another person is looking for lost power somewhere.

  Maybe some time to follow the schematics of his truck.

    

 

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