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Check valve for ET Hitch


GlennWest

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I hooked mine to the unused power-divider valve.

Not sure if I'd do it that way again.  It deflates when the truck is shut down.  Then again, my truck airs down in a couple hours, anyway.

Av8r3400
2012 Volvo VNL 730 D13 iShift & 2021 Grand Design Momentum 397TH

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I'd rather die trying to live - Than live trying not to die.   -Leonard Perry

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I plumbed mine on the Volvo to my sliding hitch valve, then on the leveling valve I added a dump valve to let all the air out if the hitch, this way when unhooking I could let the air out of the truck and hitch bags or for overnight parking I could do the same. Most Walmart lots that we overnighted in had enough of slope we would or could get level. 

Roger

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7 hours ago, Hewhoknowslittle said:

I plumbed mine on the Volvo to my sliding hitch valve, then on the leveling valve I added a dump valve to let all the air out if the hitch, this way when unhooking I could let the air out of the truck and hitch bags or for overnight parking I could do the same. Most Walmart lots that we overnighted in had enough of slope we would or could get level. 

Roger

Is there a step-by-step anywhere on plumbing in a dump valve? I need to put one on my rig. Would help with loading and unloading the car on different terrain. 

My TS hitch does not air down by itself. But it also does not have a leveling valve on it. Just in/out switch on dash with gauge. I saw one at the ECR last year and he had a leveling valve and shocks on his TS. 

2003 International Eagle 9200i, Cummins ISX, Freedomline

2007 Teton Scottsdale XT4

 

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18 hours ago, GlennWest said:

Mine will go down in like a day but it could get worse by end of trip so never safe not to unhook. A check valve should correct this. Wondering if anyone has done this

Do you know where you are loosing air at the hitch? The bags?  The leveling valve?  Other?  Where would you put the check valve to prevent loosing air?

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14 hours ago, GlennWest said:

My Freightliner doesn't drop down a lot like the Volvo's do. So of hitch stays up I would be good

Plumb the hitch into the pressure protected accessory port on the dryer like it is supposed to be and the hitch will stay up with the rest of the truck.  The reason the truck stays up longer is because you don't have a 3 tank system with wet tank and two check valves like everybody else.  You have a two tank system (but still at 12X chamber volume like theirs, per 121) all pressure protected at different levels.  The dryer can isolate each part of the system and can pick and choose who gets the air, who gives the air, and who gets cut off.  The others get only two tank volumes to hold their truck up overnight and you get the complete truck volume to hold it up.  But only if you have it plumbed into an accessory or suspension port.

Adding a check valve doesn't give the leveling valve in the hitch any volume to work with.  Sure it'll stay up when the truck goes down, but only while you are looking at it.  Touch it just once with enough force to make it draw air and it'll sink down.

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What about installing a ball valve on the pressure line going to the hitch.  Need it to hold, close the valve.  Need to dump it, leave it open.  Likely open will be the most common position but when needing to hold pressure in hitch close the valve.

Marcel

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On ‎4‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 12:20 PM, Scrap said:

Yea that is the problem.  Get it out of the tank bung and put it in an accessory port in the dryer.  Should see an improvement in keeping it up.

Didn't have an open port so I teed into an existing line. 

2003 Teton Grand Freedom towed with 2006 Freightliner Century 120 across the beautiful USA welding pipe.https://photos.app.goo.gl/O32ZjgzSzgK7LAyt1

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