LED's for tail & parking lights?

[Kirk W]

Has anyone converted conventional tail or parking lights to LED's? If so, what brand or supplier did you use and how have they worked out? I am thinking of converting the lights on our travel trailer and possibly the tail lights on the Dodge truck.

[Second Chance]

Someone over on the Grand Design forum replaced their tail lights with LEDs:

 

http://www.granddesignowners.com/forum/showthread.php/8008-Tail-Light-Mod?highlight=tail+lights

 

You may not be able to see the photos if you're not a member of the forum. Here are the Amazon links for what they used:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bargman-47-84-610-Surface-Mount-Taillight/dp/B007V4XBUE?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

 

https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-License-Plate-Bracket-Snowmobile/dp/B006SIRYGG/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VMGR44BRQVCMVM6YGE38

 

The person who did it says they are much brighter and more visible than the OEM lights.

 

Rob

[I'mdonewiththis forum]

I put a set of LEDs on my trailer. They are not the most expensive, but they are a large improvement over the stock lights. Here is what I put on the trailer: The only 'complaint' I have heard about them was from my son who was following me at night. He was complaining about how bright the stop lights were when he was stopped behind me. Far as my truck, I have a headache rack with lights in it so I haven't thought about LEDs in the tail lights.

[jeomelia]

With my 92 Dodge Roadtrek I started out trying LEDs from the auto parts store for brake/turnsignals but they were not impressive, then I tried JDM Astar LEDs from Amazon a big improvement. One caution older trucks may need different turn signal flasher and new smarter trucks resistors so the computer thinks the bulb is in the socket. Go with the Bargman kits for the trailer

[Mark and Dale Bruss]

When we put LEDs in the taillights on our Travel Supreme trailer, we had to try a few different styles. The issue was to get the lens to be fully lit. Some LEDs can have a lot of power but is focused and in the end a fully lit lens is better than a bright small spot in the middle of the lens.

 

Also our CHMSL (Center High Mounted Stop Light) needed a different sensor to turn on the CHMSL with the lessor current of the LED lamps.

[jc2]

Joe, on 30 Oct 2016 - 08:33 AM, said:

With my 92 Dodge Roadtrek I started out trying LEDs from the auto parts store for brake/turnsignals but they were not impressive, then I tried JDM Astar LEDs from Amazon a big improvement. One caution older trucks may need different turn signal flasher and new smarter trucks resistors so the computer thinks the bulb is in the socket. Go with the Bargman kits for the trailer

I have also heard that when replacing turn signal bulbs in older vehicles that the signal lights will blink noticeably fast than normal as if 1 of the 2 elements (incandescent bulbs) are burnt out. I vaguely remember that there were led bulbs out there that had a (resistor)? built in that would make led turn signal bulbs blink at a normal rate like the incandescent bulbs being replaced. I am also wanting to replace the turn signal bulbs on our 04 Newmar DS and the mid ship side marker lights that blink also when turning/changing lanes but only if I can find the type of bulbs that I have just mentioned. Haven't heard about replacing the signal flasher.

[Kirk W]

I have also heard that when replacing turn signal bulbs in older vehicles that the signal lights will blink noticeably fast than normal as if 1 of the 2 elements (incandescent bulbs) are burnt out. I vaguely remember that there were led bulbs out there that had a (resistor)? built in that would make led turn signal bulbs blink at a normal rate like the incandescent bulbs being replaced.

This is exactly the issues I am asking about. I have read of direct bulb replacements to LED's but have no first hand experience with any of them. It is what I am looking for.

[Alie&Jim's Carrilite]

We put replacement LED bulbs in our tail light assemblies. Like Mark, it took a few different bulbs to find the right bulb that would light up the entire light pocket, focused vs spread.

Auto Zone, Advanced, and wallyworld have LED bulbs that generally cross reference by the right number- 1157, 1154, 1054 etc.

So far for us, they have worked well.

[I'mdonewiththis forum]

Kirk, you can go to NAPA and get an electronic flasher unit (mine is a Signal-Stat 262). I have had all but one bulb disconnected and as many as three incandescents, plus three LEDs at one time and the rate of flash was the same. Keep in mind that you will need to physically check to make sure the bulbs are still functioning more often, AND if you have a 'newer' computerized vehicle this may not work for you.......... But it works great on my 1996 Dodge.

[Wrknrvr]

I did replace the lights in our Teton with led lights. We used the old lenses and install sealed strip lights for on HDT equipment. It did take some testing to get the lights to look like color they should be. And also had to install lights to light up the side of the outside edge of outside lenses as the rear facing led lights did not put light to the side.

I purchased the lights at 75 Chrome shop in Wildwood Florida.

 

We have a rear awning for the rear window. So I installed clear looking led strip lights near the top of the awning arms. You really only see them when they are lite up.

That way someone behind a car or pickup can see them . Although they do have more of a light beam pointing straight out .

 

 

Hope his helps some, Vern

[Kirk W]

I am towing with a 2003 Dodge truck. Guess I need to check the flasher it has as I'd like to put LED's into the truck and the travel trailer.

[Dennis M]

Fiver has four taillights, replaced them with LED bulbs, but not enough resistance for the flasher in the Volvo. Put incandescents back in two of them. This has worked fine for years and it gives me a slight flash effect on braking. The LEDS come on a split second before the incandescents.

 

Also, a bit of research will show you that LED brake lights provide an extra 20 feet of stopping distance to the vehicle behind you at 60 MPH. That alone makes it worth the price.

[docj]

I used these 1157 LED replacements for the taillights in our MH: https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-28-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit-car/1644/4167/ They are a little long but the fixture was long enough to accommodate them. The effect was fantastic--the bulbs emit 154 lumens but it's all red light! An incadescent 1157 bulb produces ~400 lumens in a continuous spectrum of which the red portion is only a small component. The effect of 154 lumens of only red light is quite impressive. Furthermore, the LEDs are arranged in a long column and light up the reflector in much the same way as would the filament of a bulb.

 

To respond to other issues raised in this thread--there were no adverse effects that I'm aware of that resulted from this change. The blink-rate of the lights was unaffected.

[Pat & Pete]

A thermal flasher requires resistance to function . That resistance is provided by incandescent bulbs .

 

An electronic flasher does not require that same resistance and draws less 'juice' from the system .

 

The electronic flasher will work fine with either incandescent or LED bulbs . The thermal may not function with LED bulbs .

 

I found that out when I replaced turn signals on a motorcycle from incandescent to LED .

[Kirk W]

A thermal flasher requires resistance to function . That resistance is provided by incandescent bulbs .

I believe that it isn't resistance but current flow which causes the standard flasher to operate, such as the explanation given here by "how stuff works." The reason that they sometimes change flash rate or don't work with LED's is that they require far less current flow. I understand that some conversion LED's have a current shunt built into them to allow the flasher to seen enough current to make it work, but I've not used any so that is the reason I started this thread.

 

To respond to other issues raised in this thread--there were no adverse effects that I'm aware of that resulted from this change. The blink-rate of the lights was unaffected.

Thank you Joel! That is exactly the kind of information that I am looking for. I'll investigate those light replacements today.

[Pat & Pete]

I believe that it isn't resistance but current flow which causes the standard flasher to operate, such as the explanation given here by "how stuff works." The reason that they sometimes change flash rate or don't work with LED's is that they require far less current flow. I understand that some conversion LED's have a current shunt built into them to allow the flasher to seen enough current to make it work, but I've not used any so that is the reason I started this thread.

 

Thank you Joel! That is exactly the kind of information that I am looking for. I'll investigate those light replacements today.

 

Of course it requires current flow , but , without resistance that flow is not high enough for a thermal flasher to function . Not so with an electronic flasher , hence no need for a shunt ( resistance ) .

[gjhunter01]

Something to keep in mind is that tail lights supplied with incandescent bulbs had the lens designed to defuse the light from these bulbs. If you look inside the red lens, you will see many angular pyramid rises to defuse the incandescent light. If you replace just the bulb to a LED without changing the lens, you might end up with bright and dark spots. OEM's spent a lot of engineering studies making their lights efficient based on THEN current technology. The best (and most expensive) option is to get the light assembly designed for a LED.

Greg

[Tex Bigfoot]

Kirk

 

I have not replaced the OEM tail lights on the 5ver yet I'll be following this thread closely for info regarding doing so. I've looked at several from complete assemblies to just replacement bulbs just have not pulled the trigger yet.

 

I did replace the tail/turn lights on my 35 foot flatbed ( same trailer that has the nice new tires after my last trip to deep east Texas) with LED due to the heavy bouncing shortening the life the conventional light bulbs.

These where sealed rubber flush mounted and simply a plug and play type thing. No change in the blinker speed and to date after the replacement ( well over 3 years ) no problems of any kind.

[Dick N]

Has anyone converted conventional tail or parking lights to LED's? If so, what brand or supplier did you use and how have they worked out? I am thinking of converting the lights on our travel trailer and possibly the tail lights on the Dodge truck.

 

Kirk, I replaced all of the lights interior and exterior with inexpensive LED lights (off eBay, shipped from China) on our KZ Sportsmen Classic travel trailer. It did not affect the flasher on my Ford Flex tow vehicle. Plus the converter fan now never comes on when interior lights are turned on. Previous to making the change, it would run almost immediately when an interior light was turned on.

 

Overall, I like the LED setup much better.

[Kirk W]

1

Kirk, I replaced all of the lights interior and exterior with inexpensive LED lights (off eBay, shipped from China) on our KZ Sportsmen Classic travel trailer. It did not affect the flasher on my Ford Flex tow vehicle.

It may be that vehicles are getting away from the old thermal flashers and I suspect that any which come with LED lights most likely have done so. Not sure what year your Focus is. I need to do some testing on my truck as it is possible that it also has electronic flashers, since it does have a separate circuit to the trailer connection from the one for signals on the rear. Guess I need to investigate further. I may not have any problem to start with. I guess my 40 years doing electrical service work has made me address problems before I know that I have them!

[I'mdonewiththis forum]

Hopefully you won't see something like I saw a few years back. When I was still working I was at an International dealer and there was a county owned dump truck there with the left front turn signal not working. They said it would be about $700 just for parts to fix it. Seems there was some computer failure that only affected the front turn signal. The moral (if you can call it that) is to be careful. Things can get real expensive real quick.........

[docj]

Something to keep in mind is that tail lights supplied with incandescent bulbs had the lens designed to defuse the light from these bulbs. If you look inside the red lens, you will see many angular pyramid rises to defuse the incandescent light. If you replace just the bulb to a LED without changing the lens, you might end up with bright and dark spots. OEM's spent a lot of engineering studies making their lights efficient based on THEN current technology. The best (and most expensive) option is to get the light assembly designed for a LED.

Greg

 

What you say is true, but my experience has been that you shouldn't let it keep you from trying LED bulbs to see how well they work in your lens housing. The first ones I bought were brighter than the incandescents but didn't fully illuminate the lens. The new ones I'm using do a far better job illuminating the lens than the incandescent bulb ever did. It's not rocket science; use an LED bulb that approximates a thin glowing filament and you ought to do pretty well.

[Darryl&Rita]

1

It may be that vehicles are getting away from the old thermal flashers and I suspect that any which come with LED lights most likely have done so. Not sure what year your Focus is. I need to do some testing on my truck as it is possible that it also has electronic flashers, since it does have a separate circuit to the trailer connection from the one for signals on the rear. Guess I need to investigate further. I may not have any problem to start with. I guess my 40 years doing electrical service work has made me address problems before I know that I have them!

A lot of the new vehicles don't even have a flasher under the dash anymore. All the lighting, from when to transition from DRL to full illumination, to signal lights flashing, is controlled right from the chassis ECM.

[I'mdonewiththis forum]

Another thing to keep in mind (I just remembered this) is your truck will probably be like a car I have. If I were to put LEDs in place of the incandescent bulbs I would need to tell the computer that they are not what it expected. It is simple to do, but if you don't have the program it is more challenging.........

[Kirk W]

A lot of the new vehicles don't even have a flasher under the dash anymore.

Good point, but my truck is now 14 model years old and I'm not sure when Dodge trucks made the change.