Oil wicking wiring harness

[runaway parents]

I believe its the wiring that runs the injectors it inters the block on the drivers side .From what I have been hearing it is quite a job to change the harness out.

[oletimer]

Is there a photo someone took to identify exactly? I found a couple oil spots on my truck after it was in my Uncles shop and have tasked my mechanic to find and repair. He has heard about the wire loom leak but not repaired one. (yet) I don't need a 2K repair bill right now but a bigger one in a couple months would only be worse.

Rod

Rod,

I'm not good at posting photos, but I did the repair several years ago, and did post some photos. I have searched for that post with no luck. What I did was to remove the valve cover, unhook all wire connections (injectors, jake switch, etc.), the bolt to remove the harness from the rear of the head, then pull the wiring from the head. I then CAREFULLY, used a Dramial (sp) tool to remove as much of the material around the wires as I could. Then I used a piece of 1 1/4" PVC as a mold to go on the outside of the casting holding the wires, BTW, I had to split the PVC in able to go around that casting, and used a hose clamp to secure it to the casting, making sure not to cover the "O" ring. I then refilled with J-B weld, I felt it had a better temperature rating than some of the other stuff. It worked for about 2 years. I later bit the bullet for a replacement, but that is another story. I kept the mold/form for a few years for others to use, but had no takers, so finally tossed it. It was not that hard of a job, and I was going to try the repair again, but didn't. I was advised by many not to worry about it, but I hate an oil leak.

 

Dick T

[GlennWest]

Excuse me while I run outside and give my Chevy dually a big hug and kiss.

Well, I gave mine a big hug every time it came back from dealership, with a please don't do this again.

[Pat & Pete]

Well, I gave mine a big hug every time it came back from dealership, with a please don't do this again.

 

Every man makes his own chains .

[GlennWest]

 

Every man makes his own chains .

Got rid of that chain. lol

[Pat & Pete]

Smart man .

[kola54]

Mine started leaking last year. Just a little, then more, and then lots. I had it replaced in the Valley this past winter. Cost was right at $1700. Replace it. The temporary fixes are just that.....temporary. And if you damage the ECM you will really be moaning.....

 

Hey Jack, who did your repair in the valley (Phoenix) and was it just the harness kit ,head to ECM or the whole Enchilada.......Thanks

[Jack Mayer]

The repair was done by Volvo in the RIO GRANDE valley. Not Phoenix. It was the entire thing.

 

 

Hey Jack, who did your repair in the valley (Phoenix) and was it just the harness kit ,head to ECM or the whole Enchilada.......Thanks

[smalltruckbigcid]

New to this forum. The harness is located at the rear of the drivers side of the engine just below the valve cover rail. Can you pump it full of goo and stop the leak? The harness is already sealed with epoxy inside the plastic pass-through. Where the harness goes into the head it sits in a pool of oil so it's a matter of time before it leaks.

 

There are 26 connections for it inside the valve cover,12 white,12 colored for the injectors aND 2 colored for the exhaust brake. Once you've done a few it is about a 5 hour job. You need a decent DVOM with a continuity beeper a go one wire at time. Hint...do the exhaust brake wires first.

 

If the engine has over 600,000 miles check the rebound Springs on the exhaust valves as there may be some broken. You might be able to reuse the valve cover gasket, but don't count on it. If possible use the repair harness not the complete engine harness. The complete is a good way to consider fiery endings to your work.

 

So if you get quoted 1700 in labor ask why. Book time is about 6.5 hours and the dealer has the breakout box to make it go faster.

[rdickinson]

6.5 for the repair harness or the complete unit?

[kola54]

The repair was done by Volvo in the RIO GRANDE valley. Not Phoenix. It was the entire thing.

 

 

Thank you.

[kola54]

New to this forum. The harness is located at the rear of the drivers side of the engine just below the valve cover rail. Can you pump it full of goo and stop the leak? The harness is already sealed with epoxy inside the plastic pass-through. Where the harness goes into the head it sits in a pool of oil so it's a matter of time before it leaks.

 

There are 26 connections for it inside the valve cover,12 white,12 colored for the injectors aND 2 colored for the exhaust brake. Once you've done a few it is about a 5 hour job. You need a decent DVOM with a continuity beeper a go one wire at time. Hint...do the exhaust brake wires first.

 

If the engine has over 600,000 miles check the rebound Springs on the exhaust valves as there may be some broken. You might be able to reuse the valve cover gasket, but don't count on it. If possible use the repair harness not the complete engine harness. The complete is a good way to consider fiery endings to your work.

 

So if you get quoted 1700 in labor ask why. Book time is about 6.5 hours and the dealer has the breakout box to make it go faster.

 

Yes I would like to know too,6.5 for the kit????? Thanks

[rdickinson]

Things always seem to cost more in Canada. Replacing the harness was about 3400, 50/50 parts and labor. Time was about 14 hrs but I'm going from memory. There are other parts which could be replaced when apart at that time which would save on labor later. Pre-emptive strikes like I did on my 2006 Smart in order to make sure nothing would happen.

 

I may be wrong but others will know. EGR valves or sensors may be a couple and that part I gave Jack at the Tampa RV show last year. Something to do with fuel, truck was running rough at the time.

 

On the D13 just above the Alternator there is a 6" long 1" diameter hose which is difficult to replace....that could be replaced for cheap at that time.

Also on that same side there is some sort of spinning filter, sorry I don't know the name of it but that got either rebuilt or a kit installed....can't recall the details. Hoses and the rad expansion tank are some others. I'm told when the expansion tank turns yellow, it's on its last legs.

 

The point being, things wear out thru use or time. If all these parts were replaced individually it could be expensive but while the engine is apart, the cost would be mainly parts and a little labor.

[RandyA]

I mentioned this at the west coast rally has any body tried to cutting the wiring loom and injecting silicone in the loom ahead of the ecm to protect it from the invading oil and some how capturing the oil and sending it back to the block. may be putting some kind of tee in the loom and a hose to a reservoir or back to the oil pan. Just throwing it out there seem like it would be a cheep fix.

This oil wicking issue and the cost of $2,000 plus to replace the harness and the possible destruction of the EECM if not corrected has created some dismay here. I personally see nothing wrong with addressing the issue as suggested above. Yes, one may get some oil spots on their driveway and some engine oil will be lost by creating a dam and drain in the loom. But, one will need to lose barrels of oil and use gallons of cleaner on their driveway to approach $2,000. As suggested, perhaps a sanitary napkin (Kotex) placed at the newly created drain point will suffice. It can be replaced as needed. Personally, I will use this approach - open the loom at a horizontal point, plug it downstream of the opening with Dicor sealant and zip tie a Kotex pad to the upstream open end. Wrap the pad with aluminum foil. This will keep oil from reaching the EECM. Yes, a shade tree or red neck approach but a lot less damage to the pocketbook than a replacement that will once again be susceptible to leaking. I will be modifying mine in the next week or so. Maybe I can get my wife to buy the Kotex so I won't be too embarrassed at check-out .

[lappir]

This oil wicking issue and the cost of $2,000 plus to replace the harness and the possible destruction of the EECM if not corrected has created some dismay here. I personally see nothing wrong with addressing the issue as suggested above. Yes, one may get some oil spots on their driveway and some engine oil will be lost by creating a dam and drain in the loom. But, one will need to lose barrels of oil and use gallons of cleaner on their driveway to approach $2,000. As suggested, perhaps a sanitary napkin (Kotex) placed at the newly created drain point will suffice. It can be replaced as needed. Personally, I will use this approach - open the loom at a horizontal point, plug it downstream of the opening with Dicor sealant and zip tie a Kotex pad to the upstream open end. Wrap the pad with aluminum foil. This will keep oil from reaching the EECM. Yes, a shade tree or red neck approach but a lot less damage to the pocketbook than a replacement that will once again be susceptible to leaking. I will be modifying mine in the next week or so. Maybe I can get my wife to buy the Kotex so I won't be too embarrassed at check-out .

Watching and hoping you provide ample photographs of your potential solution. My mechanic say's with my limited mileage per year, he doesn't feel the repair is worth the cost. Of course he is sitting at home when I am on the road. How many have had a disabling event in regards to this oil leak? Does it happen while running down the road or is it after a long run during the cool down? I have doubts that it occurs while the truck is sitting idle and not running. (I could be wrong, though.)Am also pretty sure it won't happen during the initial starting and the beginning of a trip.

 

Instead of purchasing the name brand, have your wife just ask for a peri pad.

 

Rod

[dan412]

Does oil wicking harness happen on all years

[rdickinson]

I have to disagree with half measures. Sure it may work for a while but what about if the truck is sold to an unsuspecting customer, a fellow or soon to be HDTer. He doesn't discover the leak has started again and it gets into the ECM causing even more problems. Perhaps a breakdown sometime on a Holiday which has been planned for months.

What would you say? Buyer beware?? Pretty crummy if you ask me, pretty crummy even if you don't.

A half baked fix causing problems later on would make you a pretty poor Ambassador for this bunch.

 

A half fix here would give me concern about corners cut in other areas and I'd walk...no, run.>>>>>>>>

 

 

The new owner, in addition to the 8-10k$ set aside for fixups now has to add between 2 and the high 3k's$ for the injector harness and god forbid an ECM plus other collateral damage.

For someone who has perhaps cobbled the money together to buy one of these things, it could be crushing financially and very demoralizing.

The injector harness if not already on Jacks list, perhaps should be.

 

 

If I were to put another truck together like I did with this on, John Stearns at RDO in Fargo would be asked if the IH had been replaced, if not have him replace it at his cost to me. That would be fair.

 

Get it done and done right, I don't need that thing looming in the shadows ready to blindside me.

 

I'm sticking to my guns on this one.

[Refuzn-To-Grow-Up]

This oil wicking issue and the cost of $2,000 plus to replace the harness and the possible destruction of the EECM if not corrected has created some dismay here. I personally see nothing wrong with addressing the issue as suggested above. Yes, one may get some oil spots on their driveway and some engine oil will be lost by creating a dam and drain in the loom. But, one will need to lose barrels of oil and use gallons of cleaner on their driveway to approach $2,000. As suggested, perhaps a sanitary napkin (Kotex) placed at the newly created drain point will suffice. It can be replaced as needed. Personally, I will use this approach - open the loom at a horizontal point, plug it downstream of the opening with Dicor sealant and zip tie a Kotex pad to the upstream open end. Wrap the pad with aluminum foil. This will keep oil from reaching the EECM. Yes, a shade tree or red neck approach but a lot less damage to the pocketbook than a replacement that will once again be susceptible to leaking. I will be modifying mine in the next week or so. Maybe I can get my wife to buy the Kotex so I won't be too embarrassed at check-out .

 

I am hoping that your suggested solution, to use a sanitary napkin, to fix an engine oil leaking problem, on your tow vehicle, was posted to give everyone a good laugh. You were joking, weren't you?

[NoDirectionHome]

I used this http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/23023O/emb-electrical-moisture-block.pdf

 

At work we had an issue with water wicking by capillary action vertically up a harness on the F-35 JSF. This was the fix.

[lappir]

I used this http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/23023O/emb-electrical-moisture-block.pdf

 

At work we had an issue with water wicking by capillary action vertically up a harness on the F-35 JSF. This was the fix.

How about photos of your fix?

[rickeieio]

I have to disagree with half measures. Sure it may work for a while but what about if the truck is sold to an unsuspecting customer, a fellow or soon to be HDTer. He doesn't discover the leak has started again and it gets into the ECM causing even more problems. Perhaps a breakdown sometime on a Holiday which has been planned for months.

What would you say? Buyer beware?? Pretty crummy if you ask me, pretty crummy even if you don't.

A half baked fix causing problems later on would make you a pretty poor Ambassador for this bunch.

 

A half fix here would give me concern about corners cut in other areas and I'd walk...no, run.>>>>>>>>

 

 

The new owner, in addition to the 8-10k$ set aside for fixups now has to add between 2 and the high 3k's$ for the injector harness and god forbid an ECM plus other collateral damage.

For someone who has perhaps cobbled the money together to buy one of these things, it could be crushing financially and very demoralizing.

The injector harness if not already on Jacks list, perhaps should be.

 

 

If I were to put another truck together like I did with this on, John Stearns at RDO in Fargo would be asked if the IH had been replaced, if not have him replace it at his cost to me. That would be fair.

 

Get it done and done right, I don't need that thing looming in the shadows ready to blindside me.

 

I'm sticking to my guns on this one.

If replacement of the harness were a permanent fix, I'd agree. But, you can replace the harness and still have it fail for the next owner. Randy's idea has a lot of merit.

[RandyA]

 

I am hoping that your suggested solution, to use a sanitary napkin, to fix an engine oil leaking problem, on your tow vehicle, was posted to give everyone a good laugh. You were joking, weren't you?

No, it was not a joke. The suggestion of opening a drain in the harness to prevent the migration of leaking oil to the EECM is functionally realistic and in my opinion far from a "half way measure". The additional suggestion to put a "diaper" on the open point rather than a catch can to keep oil from dripping on the driveway was also realistic. A "diaper" could be a shop rag or something intentionally more absorbent. The sanitary napkin came to mind as it is a highly absorbent alternative for a trauma dressing in mass causality cases where severe bleeding from an injury occurs - EMS is part of my life history. They can soak up and hold a lot of fluid. The amount of oil lost through the harness leak will not be significant unless the OEM epoxy sealing where the harness enters the head has completely broken down and is flooding the loom. The present risk is a few drops of oil leaking over time collectively accumulating in the loom with no where to go except downhill to the ECM and causing failure of that component. A harmless bypass or drain in the loom of a geriatric vehicle used for recreational purposes to resolve an inherent Volvo design problem makes more sense to me than putting the same component back at an extremely high cost only to be susceptible to the same failure all over again.

 

As for the reply expressing concern for the next buyer of my truck. I do not spend money on my truck out of concern for what the next, if any, future buyer might encounter. Should that occur, I will not hide what has been done nor do I believe it will devalue my vehicle as it is a 13 year old 800,000+ mileage truck. My concern is to safely and effectively maintain my vehicle for my usage. Providing a by-pass for oil seepage into the harness does not in any way compromise safety or dependability. It is a less expensive approach to prevent future side-of-the road problems. It is a personal choice made by weighing the cost of an OEM harness replacement due to a leaking plug of epoxy or finding a personally acceptable alternative at a much lesser cost. This is not a win or lose discussion - we are free to make our own choices. The thread topic concerned what one might do to avoid ECM failure due to oil migration within the harness loom. I am glad to see the different solutions - both successful and not so successful - as an alternative to OEM replacement being shared and brainstormed. If the only solutions to issues with our trucks was to return to the dealership for an expensive OEM repair I would not have a need or desire to be a member of this thread. BTW - this is said with a smile and continued friendship in mind. I respect all opinions even if they do not agree with mine .

 

UPDATE: I spent the last couple of hours helping Roger with a wiring issue on his trailer. I have the D12D engine in my Volvo. He has the D13. I know (knew) literally nothing about the external component layout of the D13. The two engines are, externally, significantly different. One major difference is the point where the injector wiring harness loom enters the cylinder head. The problem I (we) are experiencing on our D12's is entirely different from the D13 design. While I don't know for sure, it appears that Volvo may have corrected the problem with the D13 design. I would like to hear more on this theory. As far as the cost to replace the injector harness and the seriousness of an oil leak they appear to be totally different on the D12 vs. the D13. Now, back to pondering the D12 issue .

[rdickinson]

So, am I still invited for dinner??

[rickeieio]

<< While I don't know for sure, it appears that Volvo may have corrected the problem with the D13 design. >>

 

Since Jack said he replaced his last winter, I'm gonna guess it's an ongoing issue.

 

It seems all the brands of trucks and motors have their weak links.

[Jack Mayer]

<< While I don't know for sure, it appears that Volvo may have corrected the problem with the D13 design. >>

 

Since Jack said he replaced his last winter, I'm gonna guess it's an ongoing issue.

 

It seems all the brands of trucks and motors have their weak links.

That was on a D16. But it is an ongoing issue, and as far as I can tell is statistically pretty "relevant". In other words, it is likely to happen to you.