jambro Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Has anyone else had the dreaded oil wicking wiring harness. I inquired about replacement and was quoted approx 2,000 from the dealer and also an independent garage. Has anyone fixed this on their own or used any kind of sealant where the leak is coming from. The dealer warned as time goes by the oil will seep into the ECM and that will be even more costly. Volvo D12 motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ray.service Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Has anyone else had the dreaded oil wicking wiring harness. I inquired about replacement and was quoted approx 2,000 from the dealer and also an independent garage. Has anyone fixed this on their own or used any kind of sealant where the leak is coming from. The dealer warned as time goes by the oil will seep into the ECM and that will be even more costly. Volvo engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jambro Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 yes, Volvo D12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdickinson Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 If it's the injector harness, yes I went thru that last August. Oil was leaking out of the top front of the motor all the way down the front with some oil blowing back 6 or 8" from the front drivers side. Part 104V/21401715 for the harness but there were 20 other items added , o rings, gaskets etc  1700 parts and 1700 labor. I too was told deal with it asap or big problems if oil gets into the ECM. The spinning oild filter or separator was leaking on mine as well. Drivers side about halfway down the motor. Just a gasket, got that changed, 280$  Forget the sealant, how far has the oil gone in now. You will always be wondering.  Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PEIFamily Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Mine is doing it too. Will address it next summer. I read that once the valve pan is pulled, you can put epoxy resin in the hose leaving the pan to seal oil from running down the line. Â From what I read, a new oil seal in the hose is a temporary fix and either a new harness or epoxy are the only options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuiteSuccess Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Had to replace mine two years ago. $1700. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oletimer Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Has anyone else had the dreaded oil wicking wiring harness. I inquired about replacement and was quoted approx 2,000 from the dealer and also an independent garage. Has anyone fixed this on their own or used any kind of sealant where the leak is coming from. The dealer warned as time goes by the oil will seep into the ECM and that will be even more costly. Volvo D12 motor. Jambro, A couple years ago I asked that same question, and was informed not to worry, because all these trucks have small oil & air leaks. While I do think that is true, it always worried me. I wonder if we are talking about the same harness though, because mine passes into the head on the drivers side at the rear just under the valve cover. My concern was first the starter motor, then the ECM even though it was a small seep more than a leak. I have always been a DIY guy, so I removed valve cover, and disconnected the wiring washed and dried at the pass through, made a mold out of a 1 1/4" piece of PVC. I had to split the PVC so it would fit over the pass through, then used a hose clamp to hold tight so as not to damage the "O" ring. I then filled the motor side of the pass through with J-B Weld, because I couldn't find any epoxy with a temp rating as high as the J-B Weld. Things looked great, and I was a proud daddy. I even tried to post some pics here of my "great" invention, but I'm not good at that, so I can't remember if I got that done. I'm not good at remembering anymore either. Anyway, it worked for about a year, then started seeping again, so I had it replaced. Long story about that as well, but I'm sure that is more than you need to know. The harness was $998.00, and the labor was $900.00. Was the repair needed? Not sure, but I sure feel better. Good luck. Dick T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Dick T. I knew I had read about someone doing this repair but couldn't find it with the search. It is a shame it didn't work out as a permanent fix but thanks for letting us know. Â Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jambro Posted November 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 Well, I guess my only choice is to bite the bullet and have it fixed. I thank you for all your replies and insight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadfitter Posted November 4, 2015 Report Share Posted November 4, 2015 HI JAMBRO Several years ago this was a very hot topic. If I remember right our "Imagineers cam up with a solution that stayed fixed, at least after that exchange it stayed at rest for quit a while. I have a Detroit and don't enjoy that feature. Perhaps one of the other long toothed members might remember the solution. I do seem to remember we kept the dealer out of the solution.  HAPPY TRAILS roadfitter  ' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Refuzn-To-Grow-Up Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I have a 2008 D16. I had the wiring harness changed. Before the change, the engine was seriously leaking oil. Now a drop or two. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I found out recently there is a repair harness for the Volvo VED 12. The Volvo number is 21625276. My mechanic has done one and it took him most of a day. The wires are all the same colour (white) on the kit. I believe he used an ohm meter to figure out which is which. It looks like you can get it in the US for under $300. Â Just fyi Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TreyandSusan Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 There are basically 2 options. 1. Full fix which is roughly about $2000 OR 2. Temporary reseal which is about $300 (no guarantee how long the sealant will last, so the harness will need to be watched to see when leaking might return) So, one can bite the bullet and spend the 2k. If the temporary fix is chosen it might be prudent to get an experienced Volvo mechanic to do the job since they have done many and one would have a better chance of the "temporary" lasting longer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Mayer Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Mine started leaking last year. Just a little, then more, and then lots. I had it replaced in the Valley this past winter. Cost was right at $1700. Replace it. The temporary fixes are just that.....temporary. And if you damage the ECM you will really be moaning..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shallow Draft Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Had mine done this summer. It started as a slow leak then progressively got worse. Same story from the dealer that if it gets into the computer it will be very expensive. Just part of owning a Volvo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Refuzn-To-Grow-Up Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I had the "temporary fix" done at the dealer . . . . . total waste of money! The leak returned. Â My opinion, for what it is worth (LOL) is the following: Â 1. If you are in the market for a HDT, ask the seller if the wiring harness has been replaced and ask to see receipt. If not repaired, plan on spending money to get it repaired. Â 2. If you own an HDT and you have a leaking harness, you have two choices (1) fix it at your convenience or (2) fix it on the road, when the leak leaves you stuck in some God awful place in the middle of no where. Â I may be wrong, but I think that this repair adds value to the truck on re-sale. Â For potential buyers, the harness is located on the left side of the engine (I have a D16 engine) and the oil leak is really obvious both under the engine and on the harness. I am still trying to remove the oil stains from my concrete driveway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sculptor Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 "I am still trying to remove the oil stains from my concrete driveway." Â Muriatic acid, eye and skin protection, I use a good respirator just in case. Get your garden hose hooked up and turned on. Pour some on a spot and wait. It will probably run off, so keep the spot wet with acid until the spot is gone. The acid is commonly used by bricklayers to clean the finished brick work. It attacks the limestone I think. If you have really fancy stamped concrete this will take the top layer of finish off. It still looks better than oil stains to me. Â When you want to see progress, hose it off liberally with water. If the acid is running onto your unstained concrete, try hosing just that area. Â Muriatic acid can be bought cheaply in any decent hardware store. I bought a gallon and tried to store the unused portion in my deck box but it rusted everything in the box, so just buy a quart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickeieio Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Had mine done this summer. It started as a slow leak then progressively got worse. Same story from the dealer that if it gets into the computer it will be very expensive. Just part of owning a Volvo. Â It's not just Volvo. My Cummins has such a harness. "I am still trying to remove the oil stains from my concrete driveway." Â Muriatic acid, eye and skin protection, I use a good respirator just in case. Get your garden hose hooked up and turned on. Pour some on a spot and wait. It will probably run off, so keep the spot wet with acid until the spot is gone. The acid is commonly used by bricklayers to clean the finished brick work. It attacks the limestone I think. If you have really fancy stamped concrete this will take the top layer of finish off. It still looks better than oil stains to me. Â When you want to see progress, hose it off liberally with water. If the acid is running onto your unstained concrete, try hosing just that area. Â Muriatic acid can be bought cheaply in any decent hardware store. I bought a gallon and tried to store the unused portion in my deck box but it rusted everything in the box, so just buy a quart. Â DO NOT use muriatic acid. It's bad for you, the concrete, and the environment. There are far easier, and cheaper ways to remove oil stains. Simple Green, Dawn dish soap, and many other products are designed to cut oil and/or grease, and won't damage your pavement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Blue Dawn dish soap is safe for birds and pretty effective on oil, as in oil spills where birds get covered in it. Dont expect it to clean it all in one treatment though. Be patient and respectful to the environment. Â As to the oil leaking into the ECM, Im an NHRA fan and nitro cars have to have a diaper to absorb oil in case of a leak, usually a catastrophic failure. I know nothing about where the ECMs are on these trucks but could some sort of oil diaper be installed to soak up the inevitable leaking or spraying oil, then changed as needed. If this is something that happens on these trucks, then perhaps it will become a maintenance item like air and oil filters. Gotta be cheaper than the quoted repair costs I've seen here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronbo Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 Spray oil spot with brake parts cleaner. Apply steady dry while still wet. Sparky more if needed. Grind speedy dry with shoe. Sweap around and let dry. Sweap up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runaway parents Posted August 26, 2016 Report Share Posted August 26, 2016 I mentioned this at the west coast rally has any body tried to cutting the wiring loom and injecting silicone in the loom ahead of the ecm to protect it from the invading oil and some how capturing the oil and sending it back to the block. may be putting some kind of tee in the loom and a hose to a reservoir or back to the oil pan. Just throwing it out there seem like it would be a cheep fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rpsinc Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 I meant putting some sort of diaper around/in between the wires just ahead of the ECM to capture the oil as it wicks down the length of the wires thus preventing it from migrating into the ECM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjhunter01 Posted August 27, 2016 Report Share Posted August 27, 2016 Excuse me while I run outside and give my Chevy dually a big hug and kiss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runaway parents Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 Sounds like this problem is common While the other guys are out changing there diapers and making love to their Chevys I wonder if something like this could be made. You would think the Volvo experts would have a permanent solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lappir Posted August 28, 2016 Report Share Posted August 28, 2016 Is there a photo someone took to identify exactly? I found a couple oil spots on my truck after it was in my Uncles shop and have tasked my mechanic to find and repair. He has heard about the wire loom leak but not repaired one. (yet) I don't need a 2K repair bill right now but a bigger one in a couple months would only be worse. Rod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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